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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Posts: 210
    It actually means your 4wd is working just fine. It also means the roads were not slick enough to allow slippage between the wheels on opposite sides of the car. The stuttering is the driveshafts binding up. This isn't a good thing - don't keep doing it. If you want to keep things lubricated do it in a straight line.
  • mchinmchin Posts: 22
    Thanks for the info alwaysford. I hope I did not damage anything.
  • punky97punky97 Posts: 4
    Can anyone help me here? Just bought a 2001 Pathfinder a few weeks ago. Everything was great with the vehicle until yesterday when it began making a clicking noise when the vehicle was in park and my foot is on the brake pedal. Called the local dealership and the guy said it was the solenoid(?). My wife brought it down for them to look at and they again said that was the problem and that Pathfinders just do that. What???? Pathfinders just do that?? He said they had one on the lot right now that did it as well. Can anyone help me here? Thanks.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    That is completely normal on all new cars (some you can just hear it more). That's the solenoid clicking, like they said. There is an interlock that keeps you from shifting out of park unless your foot is on the brake.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Posts: 193
    Follow-up on this problem, as it now seems NOT to be the gas cap:

    2003 4WD LE with only 6,000 miles

    Week 1) Light came on steady, brought into Nissan service, ran diagnostic, failure code came up for the vehicle system in which a loose gas cap is often the culprit, so they reset codes and sent me away with doing nothing of course (I of course told them impossible - I give it 6 clicks every time I turn the cap!) . . . light came back on 2 days later.

    Week 2) Brought back into Nissan service, ran diagnostic, same failure code came up for same vehicle system, so they now said bad gas cap, replaced, and reset codes and sent me away (I of course told them impossible - a new gas cap doesn't suddenly go bad; if it were a bad cap, it would have happened right away when I bought it!) . . . light came back on 2 days later.

    Week 3) Brought back into Nissan service, ran diagnostic, same failure code came up for same vehicle system, so they called Nissan Technical who said it "could be" a bad switch that is related to the charcoal canister located underneath the rear driver side of the car (by the hitch mount area); they replaced a "purge control valve" (whatever that is) in the engine compartment that they said was reading "low" and reset codes . . . light came back on 2 days later, TODAY!!

    I call the service manager just now who agreed to give me a loaner vehicle UNTIL they fix this darn thing. But, because I have little confidence in their diagnostics to date, I am looking for ideas on what could be causing this on my new vehicle. It seems clear that whatever is causing this failure code is on the same vehicle system as the gas cap; thus it must have something to do with the vacuum seal that the gas cap usually makes. If it's not the cap, what could it be that would cause the same sort of problem as a loose gas cap? Do you think a loose hose or connection in or around the charcoal canister (i.e., the black box by the hitch mount) could cause this? As you know, I disconnected and re-connected a couple hoses down there when I installed my hitch (see Options & Accessories). Or, could it be all the playing around in the deep snow this winter somehow contaminated that charcoal canister system under there? I am not even sure what/how the canister works.

    I can tell you this: the re-triggering of the light after re-setting codes seems to be more dependent on a certain amount of time passing, rather than miles. In each instance, the light seemed to come back on a couple days later regardless of whether I had driven 30 miles or 80 miles in between. Also, whether I filled up the tank or not after the codes were reset does not seem to change things (one time I did, other two times I did not).

    Should I try another dealer? Any TSBs that seem related? Could I have broken a seal in one of those canister filter hoses, or are those in no way related to the symptoms caused by a loose gas cap? Any and all ideas appreciated!
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    My service engine soon light came on around 30,000 miles. I always tighten the gas cap because I know this can cause that. I took it in to the dealership, told them it was not the gas cap. When I picked it up later they had reset the code & told me it was a loose gas cap. Before I got home the light came back on. Before I could take it back to them I did the 30,000 mile maintenance. While checking the EVAP lines I found one completely off under the hood. I put it back on & a few days later the light reset itself. So, you may want to check all of these.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Posts: 193
    Sounds like a familiar routine, huh, sending 'em home without any follow-up beyond the gas cap . . . even though we all know to be anal about the thing given the PF's penchant for problems if not clicked enough times.

    I'll let them know to check the EVAP lines (I hope they already considered this . . . but who knows), but I am still curious about how the charcoal canister may affect things . . . I'm concerned if my removing of those rubber hoses to it (to install the hitch's mount bolts) and then re-installing could somehow have caused this . . . I think I only undid one hose and let the canister dangle while doing install . . .
  • punky97punky97 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the help smokey75. I guess what I still do not understand, though, is why it didn't do it for two weeks and now does. But thanks again for responding.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    See if you can find out what the OBD-II code is. Then go to the following website to look it up:
    http://www.obdii.com/codes.asp
    This may help you pinpoint the problem since the nimrods at the stealer can't usually figure it out.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Posts: 193
    Thanks! I had looked for something like that, but had no luck. That link is a great resource and should be bookmarked. Unfortunately, there was no match for my internal failure code P1456. From the "anatomy" chart link, it is clear that code means there is something wrong in the auxiliary emission controls. Ahhh, so I wish it were only the gas cap afterall.

    Well, it is in the shop for the 4th time as of this am and I am driving around in a "wonderful" 1998 240SX loaner . . . I'm trying to give Pat Goss his due and be patient on these service engine light problems, realizing it is often a slow process of elimination . . . but if they don't fix it this time, and I have to bring it back yet again for a 5th attempt, I'd be curious to hear what sort of dispensation others have asked for (and received) when they have been in such a situation.

    Come on Nissan - this thing has less than 6K miles and has otherwise been great . . . again, I think back to my three 100% Hondas which never went in ONCE for this sort of thing in all the years I owned them. But taking my own advice, I am keeping the faith as this is really not a big deal . . . other than the hassle of bringing it in every week! What I wouldn't give for this to have come up as a simple faulty O2 sensor . . .
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    This is what the reader says P1456 is:

    SAE Code P1456
    DTC Code 17864
    Description Exhaust gas temperature control bank 1 limit attained
  • nico3062nico3062 Posts: 3
    Need some help to see if anyone else has had this problem.

    Bought the car from a Ford dealership who said the brake pads were within specification and that it looked like after market pads were causing the squeal. Had them cleaned and it stopped for a day. They don't squeal all the time, but enough to be annoying. Took it to another place, I always take my car to and they said the pads were not totally worn, but close to it. Also mentioned my rotors were "lipped". Said I might need new rotors. I went ahead and had him change pads and left rotors to see if the better pads fix the problem. Can anyone elaborate if they have had this problem? I guess thats what I get from buying a Nissan from a Ford Dealership.

    Thanks,
    Nico
  • nico3062nico3062 Posts: 3
    Need some help to see if anyone else has had this problem.

    Bought the car from a Ford dealership who said the brake pads were within specification and that it looked like after market pads were causing the squeal. Had them cleaned and it stopped for a day. They don't squeal all the time, but enough to be annoying. Took it to another place, I always take my car to and they said the pads were not totally worn, but close to it. Also mentioned my rotors were "lipped". Said I might need new rotors. I went ahead and had him change pads and left rotors to see if the better pads fix the problem. Can anyone elaborate if they have had this problem? I guess thats what I get from buying a Nissan from a Ford Dealership.

    Thanks,
    Nico
  • nico3062nico3062 Posts: 3
    Need some help to see if anyone else has had this problem.

    Bought the car from a Ford dealership who said the brake pads were within specification and that it looked like after market pads were causing the squeal. Had them cleaned and it stopped for a day. They don't squeal all the time, but enough to be annoying. Took it to another place, I always take my car to and they said the pads were not totally worn, but close to it. Also mentioned my rotors were "lipped". Said I might need new rotors. I went ahead and had him change pads and left rotors to see if the better pads fix the problem. Can anyone elaborate if they have had this problem? I guess thats what I get from buying a Nissan from a Ford Dealership.

    Thanks,
    Nico
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Posts: 193
    Thanks Goose; I couldn't (and still can't) get that reader on the link you gave to come up with that when I select Nissan and input my failure code. In any event, it is still in Nissan Service where they are replacing the charcoal canister filter below the vehicle on driver's side rear . . . so I guess all my questions about that being on the list of potential culprits are now moot. We shall see if this 4th time is the charm . . . after that, they better be comping my a couple years of free oil changes or something . . .

    Anyone making odds that this repair will fix the service engine soon light? ;>>
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    Well, it's been 6 days since you wrote that last email. Has your stealer been able to resolve the problem?
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    I would try the OEM Nissan brake pads. Sometimes the off-make brands can cause squealing. If you can DIY, go to www.irontoad.com and get them for $40.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Posts: 193
    Was waiting until more had happened until full report, but here's update:

    They had the car for four days and were getting the same code as usual. So, they decide they would replace that charcoal canister filter that I had been asking about in my earlier posts. ( real hit or miss strategy, huh?) In the process of disconnecting hoses, they said they noticed an abnormal "back-up" of gasoline in a hose down there and report back that they are POSITIVE some valve is the culprit. They ask if I ever top off my tank, and when I told them I absolutely never had done so once, they were even more sure they found the culprit. Apparently, this valve is some type of shutter valve associated with the gas tank and some sort overflow? when people top off. Since, I don't top off, they knew that the valve had failed, leading to the back-up in this hose. So, they put the canister filter back on and ordered this valve. It is supposed to come in today, so YES, I will be going back in for my 5th trip today or tomorrow! IF this repair is successful, then I will report back with the exact part # and description of what went wrong with the original valve on a brand new vehicle. I don't quite understand yet what this valve is or what role it plays, but don't feel like researching it yet if it does not solve the problem. But, if it does, I WILL ask why it is that the original failed so that others can avoid the BS I've been through. Maybe a flook with a 1 in a million defective original valve? Perhaps this is the case . . . because none of you out there seem to be reporting back that you have ever had this problem with your late model Pathfinders. (usually this light seems to be caused by a bad O2 sensor . . . a "standard" problem I have of course even had with my Hondas). Fingers and toes are crossed.

    My satisfaction though with my purchase has only dropped from 100% to say 98%, so potential purchasers don't be mistaken. I know I would be shooting myself if I had bought that more expensive Runner and then had to agonize (as I am apt to do) over paint problems, hitch difficulty, rear windshield wiper missing glass problems, etc. with a first-year model that exist over there. I think those things would cause me more grief and remorse than these 5 trips for what is hopefully a fluke . . . but we shall see, right!?! ;>>
  • I took my 02 Pathfinder in to the dealer. He fixed my vibration in the roof rack. Sure is a lot quieter now. There is a Tech bulletin on it.
  • sngpathsngpath Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Pathfinder that has been unable to past smog. I appears that there is too much fuel getting into the Catalectic Converter. The Catalectic Converter was replaced within the last month. Looking for suggestions for solutions to the problem.
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