Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I am new at this website. I think it's great that everyone sharing their ideas regarding vehical.
I just got a new 2003 LE. It's much nicer than my old 95 PF. For Nissan Pathfinder, it has come a longways.
One Problem I am experiencing is a noise coming from engine JUST AROUND 2,900 RMP to 3,100. Have not had a chance to bring it to the service department yet. It sounds like crakling noice as you are in too high of a gear in stickshif. Has Anyone experienced this problem? If you did what was the problem and the solution?
Thanks,
fishingguy1
http://www.nissanpartswholesale.com/oxygen_sensor.html for the part.
thanks
What do you think should be the cost (diagnostic time) for the Check Engine Light issue? My gut feeling is that it should not be more than 30 minutes of work to plug into the computer, download the records and then look up the appropriate books. Any thoughts on this?
BTW, this was the third time in the past six months that the steering lock got stuck. On the two earlier occasions, I was able to solve the problem without taking it to the shop (use shift release to release tranny from P, rocking the steering wheel while turning the key etc.). However, this time it would not budge though I tried multiple times, including an overnight rest.
The dealer has given me an estimate of 3 hours of diagnostic for both the problems which to me looks on the steeper side!
Let me see how much they charge for fixing the lock.
I am glad I did not ask them to run the diagnosis for the check engine light!
daqman: Try Ebay. Also if the car is totalled and insured, the insurance company will deduct the salvage value of the vehicle from your claim if you keep the vehicle.
It sounds like the door ajar problem is caused by one of the door switches. Try wiggling each one in turn. Either one is broken or has a connection problem. They are on the door posts (you will see a rubber boot). They should just pop out for inspection.
If this is the case, you can sometimes find the offending door by determining if a sharp left or right turn causes problems (if it only happens on sharp left turns, it is likely a right door, etc.). Either that, or alternately tape closed all switches but one and drive around until you discover which one flickers...be sure to consider the hatch.
Otherwise put them on Ebay or in your local paper.
The next position back is neutral. Used only when the truck is being towed.
The furthest back position is 4x4 "Lo". The vehicle MUST BE STOPPED to shift into 4x4Lo. It should only be used for severe traction conditions -- i.e., "off-road" -- I can't think of too many conditions where the average driver wold ever have to use 4x4Lo. If conditions are bad enough where you would have to use it on the street, stay home!
If you have an SUV other than a Pathfinder, or have a "pushbutton" 4x4 selector, obviously these instructions may be incorrect -- Check your manual!
Note to Golgo31: If you really aren't sure how to use the 4x4 system, I'm sure the dealer or your mechanic would be happy to give you a short lesson. And I'd recommend it.
My 01 Pathy has been running through way too much gas lately and the idle between 1500-1800 makes the car shudder and hickup. Also, check engine light came on twice in the last month. I've got 69K on it so the first time I brought it in for the light they said it was an 8 trip ago light for the ignition coils, but they rarely do them in a Pathfinder, so they reset it and charged me $72 and sent me on my way. Well it went off again over the weekend, then turned itself off but I had it checked yesterday just in case and was told this time it really was the coils...not one ...all 6 bad. The estimate for this repair was $720. I told them to order parts as they had nothing there so I've got a 1-2 week window before I have to pony up the dough. Has anyone else had this issue? This seems excessive...all 6 bad at once?
Help?
If I push on the top of the steering wheel the rattling stops, so it seems that if it is possible to put adhesive on the bottom aspect of cowling and affix it to the underlying structure this would solve the problem...not sure if this is possible or wise to attempt however.
Has anybody had luck getting rattles removed by the dealers under warranty? Especially similar steering wheel rattles??
Any thoughts on how to attack this thing?
I am going to call them this morning and have them check the alignment on the rear hatch door. My truck also makes a lot of noise around 3K. It sounds like the motor is going to seize up. The loaner maxima I am driving is buttery smooth and quiet all the way to redline :-)
When I returned to the dealer for service after I posted that message, I complained about the liftgate not closing, thinking that it was a problem with the latch. The service rep explained to me that the seals on the doors are very tight and it was his experience that sometimes this would cause either the doors or rear hatch to fail to close securely if you didn't slam them shut and all of the other doors/hatch were closed. I guess, having a brand-new Pathy, I was afraid to hurt it by slamming the rear hatch. Since then, I don't hold back when I close it, and I haven't had the same problems since. I know its a bit unnerving to manhandle your brand-new Pathy that you probably already love, but trust me, you won't hurt it and it works. If not, maybe your problem is a real one which you should take up with the service department while its still under warranty. If however, you are taking it easy closing the rear hatch, just give it a bit more of a slam. I hope this helps. It got me down a little to see that my new truck was having these sorts of problems. Now I'm at ease with it. Good luck.
All the symptoms pointed to a slipped timing belt, but when I removed the covers and checked, the marks lined up.
What didn't look right was the crank gear key way was about 30 degrees counter clockwise from the balancer key way.
After removing the crank gear I found that the half moon key had indeed sheared and in doing so took out a piece of the crank almost the size of the key.
Does anyone PLEASE have any suggestions on how to repair this, short of replacing the crank or engine?
I've had the car back in for repairs on five occasions. They have replaced several parts, but so far, none have fixed the problem.
Is anyone else having similar problems?
"My 01 Pathy has been running through way too much gas lately and the idle between 1500-1800 makes the car shudder and hickup". I have just started to experience this problem yesterday have you found out what may be causing this problem. I have a 2000 path SE and it only has 52 K I was wondering is anyone else in here has experienced this problem Im hoping its nothing major. I have not seen the check engine light go on but my car started to hickup and shudder and it started about 30 minutes after filling up my gas tank.. to Sysadmin as for your check engine light issue I was reading through all the messages on this site and there are a lot of the same concerns as yours regarding the "check engine light" does any one know what could be causing the car to hickuo and shudder ?
"My 01 Pathy has been running through way too much gas lately and the idle between 1500-1800 makes the car shudder and hickup". I have just started to experience this problem yesterday have you found out what may be causing this problem. I have a 2000 path SE and it only has 52 K I was wondering is anyone else in here has experienced this problem Im hoping its nothing major. I have not seen the check engine light go on but my car started to hickup and shudder and it started about 30 minutes after filling up my gas tank.. to Sysadmin as for your check engine light issue I was reading through all the messages on this site and there are a lot of the same concerns as yours regarding the "check engine light" does any one know what could be causing the car to hickup and shudder ?
I'll tell you, the problems with this vehicle are never ending ;-) (NOT!!!).
I was on the way to the parents on Christmas eve and had 3 CD's in my changer (none of them CD-R/ RW's, etc.) I was using the all shuffle mode and came across a song that I didn't want to hear. I hit the next button on the steering wheel controls, heard a little noise from the CD changer. Then the ERR2 message popped up and now I can't play, eject, or do anything. CD changer says WAIT makes some noise and then just freezes.
From other posts I see that this basically means this has to be replaced. FYI, I have an '01 that I bought in July of '00.
A question I have is whether anyone has just replaced the factory unit with an aftermarket ($350 for this crappy changer seems crazy). Also, can the steering wheel stereo controls be retained with an aftermarket unit? Doubtful on this but I would really hate to lose the controls.
Thanks.
I changed the battery a few minutes ago. Those remotes are really well made. I thought the "buttons" would be carbon on PCB pads, but they are actual switches on the PCB. Very nice. Nice job waterproofing too.
For those worried about the code being lost, I'm pretty sure the remotes are hard coded (can't be changed). The vehicle has a memory space in which your dealer can enter up to four remotes (he needs the remotes to do this). So changing the battery in the remote has no effect (other than making a dead remote work again ;-).
Anyone have a recommendation for a replacement for the 17" tire.
Not that many brands and models to choose from that fit the 17" rim.
Thanks
Check out Goodyear Fortera HL Edition (mine, just bought, very nice quiet ride, great traction, 2001 LE 2WD, 25570R16), Yoko Geolander GO51, and Bridgestone Dueler AT Revos (if you need extra off road traction).
I change the ATF, gasket and filter out every 30K on all other cars I have driven. Does Nissan expect it's ATF fluid to last a lifetime? Same goes for the Fuel Filter....except they recommend to change that when you car stalls on acceleration.