Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Has anybody had simular problems?
Continental does not consider "premature wear" a manufacutures defect. My old ML320 i did get 45000 miles on the tire with tread left.
I have owned a 2006 ML350 since last July. I have 9,000 plus miles on my car, have no tread left on my front tires (continental's). I took back to the dealer and they said it was because my tire pressure was low (2pounds), so it wasn't covered under the tire warranty. I have also had the transmission problems that everyone is talking about, took back to the dealer they told me Mercedes is aware of the problem, but since they couldn't mimick the problem in the shop the problem wasn't fixed. I am getting ready to trade my new car in for a new Discovery LR3. Am very unhappy with the service that Mercedes has provided!! Do not buy this car!!! By the way if any of you live in the SO CA area and are thinking about buying a Mercedes from Fletcher Jones in Newport Beach, beware of the terrible customer service!! I had three neighbors in my neighborhood that were seriously thinking about the ML350, & I talked them out of it!!! YEAH!!!!
My tire pressure was check and check. it was within the specified limit.
I have since found out from Continental that left a voice mail on my answering machine as follows:
Mercedes know that this tire wear out premature, they use it for comfort it is not the best trie for an suv"
Now i am talking to my lawyer!!!!
I just purchased a 2001 ML 430 last week (EPA MPG is 16 city/20 Hwy). When driving in the city, I seem to average 9 - 10 mpg while driving conservatively. Highway is much better (around 18 - 20). When I accelerate during city driving, the computer display consistently says 6-8 mpg.
Is 9 MPG normal for city driving or would you think that there is a problem that I can get corrected? What things should I look at?? Thanks
Darryl
9-10 mpg is seriously inadequate. I have a 2002 ML 320. I get about 18/19 mpg all in city driving (and about 22mpg on the freeway) using air condition/heater and or radio or CD most of the time.
There maybe a few things you can do....
1. Make sure your air/fuel filter is clean or not too old - try K&N filters, they may help.
2. Am not sure about this one, but you can try that tornado thingy - I've seen it advertized elsewhere and on the speed channel and they claim to improve your gas mileage by 1-2 mpg.
3. Check your tire pressure - if it's too low, the co-efficient of drag will almost always get you and kill your mpg numbers.
These are some of the things that come to mind that you can try, but reserch to make sure they are actually what you need in order to improve your gas mileage.
Hope this helps....good luck and let us know how you fare!
Another question....dog eat the back seat belt, the dealer says it will cost $1000 to replace, where can I get it cheaper and how hard is it to fix....also, are there any manuals out there to tell me how to mantain the SUV???
Thanks
Walt
Also when I'm in an idling stage like stopping on a red light, the shifter makes a knocking sound as well and when I try to just adjust the shifter, the sound stops or goes away. The dealer couldn't find where the sound is coming from and it's not even the shifter bushing they told me.
Has anybody encountered these situation? I would really like to find out where those sound is coming from and how to fix it. Thank you all in advance...
It may be bad battery problems, try replacing the battery to see what happens.....
See message 509 for a similarly reported problem.
Good luck....
I had the same problem with my 2002 ML 320 with about 32K miles on it then. Mine attempted to stall 3X at the stoplight and each time I took it to the MB dealer to get it checked (luckily the factory warranty is stii good on mine until July 06).
The dealer told me they upgraded the software that controls the tranny/acceleration and since then (about 6months ago), I haven't had that problem re-occur.
I'll suggest you ask your dealer about the software upgrade and see what they say....unfortunately you may have to pay out of pocket.
To avoid the excessive dealer fees, you may want to get yourself an extended warrant from http://www.warrantydirect.com for about $1.5K-2K for 4years/85K miles. That will save you a lot of money down the road.
Good Luck....
THANKS
I ended up getting MBUSA to refund my money.
Get out fast! :lemon:
I have a 2001 ML-320 and experiencing the same problem. Have you discovered a solution?
Thanks,
Casey
Simple 15 minute fix.
The dealer must follow very very strict guidelines to complete the tests, and in most cases MB will not pay the claim. Most dealers will fake the test results by starting the oil test, drain a couple quarts of oil out of the engine, drive the vehicle a couple hundred miles, then print out the results showing how many miles were driven, and the couple quarts of oil used. It's a huge scam, that I wanted nothing to do with. Contact your SPOM (Service & Parts operations manager), if you are lucky, he might help.
I bought a customer a pair of shoes that were ruined when his top leaked. No problem.
A dealer can offer post-warranty repairs without contacting the manufacturer, but this is often limited to small amounts (a few hundred dollars is the general rule) to their best customers, and it's also tied to the dealer's customer satisfaction index.
So, should a dealer with a bad CSI attempt this, or should the amount be too high too often (even with a good CSI), his privilege to offer post-warranty repairs might be revoked.
An outstanding dealer with an outstanding customer in an exceptional circumstance might get away with a larger outlay however.
The problem started about 3 months ago. When I was idling or going below 15 mph the radio and all the electrical things on the car would just go completely dead for only a second. Then they would all just start back up. Sometimes this would happen 5 times in a row and sometimes just once. (The car would never die but it felt like it was about to) It would happen intermittently and never consistently. It would just happen randomly. This went on for a few months and I took it to the dealer. They could not find a problem. And of course it would not happen when they had it. Then about a month ago it would do the same thing but then everything on the dash would flash and a very loud beeping would happen until I would turn the car off. When trying to start it , it would not start. Nothing just dead no winding no power nothing. After attempting a few times then it would start. Again the dealership could not find the problem. The battery was replaced and home I went. 3 days later it would not start at all. Tried to start it for over 3 hours. Dead Dead Dead. I could not even get the windows up. The tow guy came and he was unable to get the car into neutral the gears where frozen. After about an hour the car then started then to the dealership it went, where it is now. For the past week and ½ the dealership has had it and they can not find the problem. They have replaced (I think we are up to about 8 parts now) and it still is not fixed. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. Spoke to the dealer today and they drove it yesterday and before they got out of the parking lot it died. The dealer told me it is not the CSP because when those go bad the car at least will wind up. Mine just does nothing. They have went to the Mercedes Tec. Support and they have no records of a similar situation. Any advise would be wonderful. Thank you in advance.
tidester, host
I need your advice really bad--I'm in the market for a ML350. I got an offer from a MB dealer for a silver 2005 SE(was an loner car) for $32K with 13500 milages on it. It has sunroof package and NAV and it's certified. Also, I got another offer from another dealer for a black used 2006 with Nav, it has about 14k milages but it's not certified. May I ask which one is better deal? Is it worth to pay over 9K more on an 06? Any input I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
Sorry I forgot to say the offer for 06 is 41K. Thanks!
So frustrating!!
PHX Max
Her car is under still under warranty; however I am not sure what MB USA is going to do. My core question is what type of damage to the electrical system can this burn cause? We have requested a comparable replacement vehicle or an extended electrical warranty provided by MB. No response yet. We don't want to pull the car into our garage at night and have it burn out house down.
I drove the car about 50 miles after ther repairs and did not see the same problem again.
My concern is the long term reliability of the fix. Does any one else have the experience of this probelm and the success of the software update fix.
I appreciate your kind responses.
- Concerned MB owner