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Comments
Also did you get the original wiring harness and does it plug straight into the plug ?
Thanks
sign me.. Left hangin' in Syracuse.
Thanks a bunch! 98 degrees here yesterday, set a record. Already had 102 in April! Got regular for $2.799 last night.
to fish the bolts, i used some skinny speaker wire attached with some plumbers tape to the thread end of the bolts.
Bought a used 2004 Tribute LX a couple of months ago and it is serving me well so far. Looking to get some kind of step bar or running boards because the vehicle is pretty high, primarily for my 2 and 7 year old kids.
I know nothing about running boards or step bars and want something good looking, easy to install, and relatively cheap. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to look at and how much to pay? Thanx.
Do you now by any chance what kind of lamps were installed on the front bar? They look to me like PIAA 520 for the model but the size of these are smaller. I got the westin light bar and am looking for lamps. Any suggestions?
Thanks a bunch
Are there warranty restrictions from Ford ?
How is the ride quality and fuel economy effected ?
Thanks
However, it seems to me that the motor kicks in too early for much of my city driving. Is anyone aware of a mod, aftermarket device or Ford plan that would allow "tweaking" of the balance between electric and gas power?
has been all the extra wires around the dash due to my Sportster.
I was very excited when I bought my 2007 FEH hybrid last week
because the stereo is "satellite radio ready." Which usually means
that you just have to add a tuner and antenna and you're ready to
go. Cost to do that would normally be around $100-$150. When I made
some inquiries about upgrading it at the dealer, I was shocked to
find that to do it with this radio you supposedly have to use Ford's
tuner and harness - TO THE TUNE OF $538.
When I talked to the installer, I said, well, it would be less
expensive for me to buy a better stereo plus tuner at Circuit City
and have it put it. He told me that the car will not run correctly
with another stereo in it - I DO NOT have the Nav system, just the 6
CD changer - because of computer problems and that I might void my
warranty.
Has anyone else heard of this?
Has anyone replaced their Ford stereo in the Escape Hybrid? Has it
affected the way your car runs?
Has anyone successfully added on a Kenwood Sirius $99 tuner without
coughing up the $538 to Ford?
I have to say that the sound quality on my stereo is pretty poor -
the worst sounding car stereo I've had in years. I wouldn't
hesitate to replace it in a minute, if it weren't for the warning
that I might screw up my car and void my warranty.
I highly doubt the contention that the FEH warranty is voided if you change the stereo. Call or email Ford customer service and get them to answer the question.
Good Luck
Does anyone know where the access hole is located? I can't find it anywhere. Do I need to remove the bumper to get to it?
Thanks!
Can anyone suggest the best way to install (or location to splice into for) a harness for trailer wiring that doesn't involve me paying somone $100+ to do it?
1. Fit the hitch up to the frame to identify the 4 holes you will be using.
2. For each hole you will be using - fish a wire through the hole next to that hole, the one closer to the front of the vehical. The wire should exit through the rear of the frame tube.
3. Tie a wire to the heavy steel rectangular "washers" provided with the hitch. Pull the washer into the frame tube until the hole in the washer lines up with the hole you will be using. Using the hole behind the hole you will be suing to fish the wire through allows you to line up the holes.
4. Fish another wire through the hole you will be using and the washer until it comes out the end of the frame tube. U-Haul provided a special wire you could thread the bolt onto.
5. Now pull the bolt through the frame and the "washer". Cut the wire from the washer and unthread the special fish wire from the bolt. How simple and easy! 1 down, 3 to go.
Sounds like a pain - and it is, but it should take less than an hour. No need to drill or remove the bumper cover - at least with the hitch I got. Good luck!
I might be interested in parting with the old unit.
anyone?
I attached to six holes by threading the empty fish wires (provided) "backwards" through the desired mounting holes back to the beam opening. Then, after placing the rect steel "washers" and the bolts onto the wire, I pulled both through to the desired hole and with a little jiggling got them into place. It helped to pull through the two vertical bolts - one on each side - and then loosely install the hitch, before pulling the 4 horizontal bolts - two on each side - through to the holes with the hitch already in place.
This was my first experience with a hitch. Looks like this is all "business as usual" for those who have installed more than one hitch.
The Hidden Hitch looks good and is out of the way when not in use. A good design that takes into account the modification needed to avoid the HV battery Air/Conditioning refrigerant lines unique to the FEH.
After 86K miles on my OEM tires (p235/70R/16) I replaced them w/P245/70R/16 Michelin Cross Terrain SUV.
2 Q's - it seems my gas mileage has been affected (from avg of 20-21 down to 18 mpg) - would it affect it THAT much?
and - 2, what about my odometer/spedometer, should I look to have those calibrated to the new tire size (is that even possible?).
I'm am coming up on my 90K tune up, so I am also thinking that a new fuel filter, etc., may also help bring my mileage back up ??
Thanks. :confuse: I'm just not sure if I did a VERY bad thing by putting those tires on my car.
From what I have read from others on these FEH forums, I would say it is possible that you see a 10% FE hit from the new tires (2% for the circumference change alone.) Did you happen to switch tires just as the weather changed? - in the past did you notice a dip in FE during colder months?
There should be an adjustment procedure for tire circumference changes for the trip and FE computers (in the owners manual?) - but from my experience the speedometer is so inaccurate, I wouldn't bother with a formal recalibration. (just my griping about the poor quality Ford put into the gauges)
when you went to 245/70 from 235/70 you didn't change the diameter of your tire at all. The first number is the width of the tire in mm. not the diamter. the second number is the diameter number and is a ratio.
Mark.
Here's a couple of calculators:
Miata.net
1010tires
I keep hitting the wrong buttons trying to compare the two sizes, but I think the ~4% difference is between a 16 and 17" tire.
P
The "P" indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.
Next number
This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.
Next number
This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire's ratio of height to width. Numbers of 70 or lower indicate a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling on dry pavement.
R
The "R" stands for radial. Radial ply construction of tires has been the industry standard for the past 20 years.
Next number
This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.
Next number
This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.
M+S
The "M+S" or "M/S" indicates that the tire has some mud and snow capability. Most radial tires have these markings; hence, they have some mud and snow capability.
Speed Rating
The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time. The ratings range from 99 miles per hour (mph) to 186 mph. These ratings are listed below. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.
Letter Rating Speed Rating
Q 99 mph
R 106 mph
S 112 mph
T 118 mph
U 124 mph
H 130 mph
V 149 mph
W 168* mph
Y 186* mph
* For tires with a maximum speed capability over 149 mph, tire manufacturers sometimes use the letters ZR. For those with a maximum speed capability over 186 mph, tire manufacturers always use the letters ZR.
U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number
This begins with the letters "DOT" and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 3197 means the 31st week of 1997. The other numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer's discretion. This information is used to contact consumers if a tire defect requires a recall.
Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used
The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.
Maximum Load Rating
This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.
Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure
This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.
UTQGS Information
Treadwear Number
This number indicates the tire's wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the longer it should take for the tread to wear down. For example, a tire graded 400 should last twice as long as a tire graded 200.
Traction Letter
This letter indicates a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow you to stop your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from highest to lowest as "AA","A", "B", and "C".
Temperature Letter
This letter indicates a tire's resistance to heat. The temperature grade is for a tire that is inflated properly and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as "A", "B", or "C".
Additional Information on Light Truck Tires
Please refer to diagram below.
d
Tires for light trucks have other markings besides those found on the sidewalls of passenger tires.
LT
The "LT" indicates the tire is for light trucks.
Max. Load Dual kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a dual, that is, when four tires are put on each rear axle (a total of six or more tires on the vehicle).
Max. Load Single kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a single.
Load Range
This information identifies the tire's load-carrying capabilities and its inflation limits.
Snow Tires
In some heavy snow areas, local governments may require true snow tires, those with very deeply cut tread. These tires should only be used in pairs or placed on all four wheels. Make sure you purchase snow tires that are the same size and construction type as the other tires on your vehicle.
NHTSA's tire safety page: Tire Safety, Brochure (DOT HS 809 361 October 2001)
The second number is the sidewall height as a percentage of the width. Therefore the 245/70-16 tire/wheel total diameter = 29.50" and the 235/70-16 diameter = 28.95" The difference is 1.9% which I rounded to 2%
A 245/65-16 tire, if available, would be a negligible change as far as diameter/circumference.
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit (if that works).
235 measurements 245 measurements in bold, couldn't space 'em out
Section Width: 9.25 in 235 mm 9.64 inches/245mm
Rim = 16" 406.4 mm Same
Overall Diameter: 28.95 in/735.33 mm 29.50 in/749.3 mm
Sidewall Height: 6.47 in/164.33 mm 6.75 in 171.45 mm
Radius: 14.47 in/367.53 mm 14.75 in 374.65 mm
Circumference: 90.94 in/2309.8 mm 92.67 in 2353.8 mm
Revs per Mile: 718.4 705.0
Actual Speed: 60 mph 58.8
Speedometer Difference: ---- 1.900% too slow
Diameter Difference: ------ 1.87%
So, my tires are a bit larger by a few measurements here and there, not just in tread that hits the pavement (245mm), therefore giving me less revolutions per mile, I guess my Tribby is working harder to make itself go, which would effect fuel economy. I'm hoping it comes back up a bit after the next o/c, tune up, etc. I liked getting about 20 mpg, however I suppose I really can't tell since my odometer must be a bit off as well?? :confuse:
sorry, my comments were aimed towards hybrid owners where there has been a lot of discussion about FE and tire rolling resistance.....from my non-hybrid SUV experience, you have upgraded by going to the michelins and should see several benefits (wet/dry traction, road noise, etc.) for the cost of a few miles per gallon
if they do(ok, they do), i have had the conti's on our escape and have the cross terrains on my explorer.
my explorer experienced a slight bump in mileage after putting on the cross terrains.
bear with me a bit.
go to tirerack and look up how many revolutions per mile for each tire. this will give you the true difference of the size difference if the tires.
not all the tires of the same size are actually the same size. i just replaced the conti's on the escape with goodyear tripletreads. they are noticeably larger than the conti's they replaced. the conti's are also a very light tire. you can get those numbers from tirerack, too.
run about 20 miles or so on a highway with measured miles to determine your odometer accuracy. the cross terrains measure 19.8 on the trip odometer over 20 measured miles.
i have done this several times.
so are the cross terrains a lot quieter?
for me, the cross terrains are not that great in bad weather.
RE: Revs per mile, I did the comparison at the 1010.com site and the 235's were around 718 rvs per mile and the 245's are 705 revs per mile (I believe, I'm going on a turkey rattled memory function right now, lol).
I did notice a difference in road noise, but my OEM's had 86K miles on them, I think ANY new tire I put on the Trib would reduce road noise @ that point.
I haven't noticed any slippage in rain and we have not had any snow yet.
I've got to find a measured mile, my OD and my trip OD never meshed anyway, they were off buy a tenth or two to start with. I'll talk to the dealer about it next time I'm in there.
In either case, the outside diameter of the tire (not the rim) does change as the width changes given that the profile ratio stays the same.
From TireRack.com:
Width x Aspect Ratio = Section Height
Section Height x 2 = Combined Section Height
Combined Section Height + Wheel Diameter = Tire Diameter
Example: 185/60R14 85H or 185/60HR14
185mm x .60=111mm
111mm x 2=222mm
222mm + 355.6mm(14")= 577.6mm or 22.74"
The first number is the width of the tire in millimeters, measured from sidewall to sidewall. To convert to inches, divide by 25.4 In the example above, the width is 185mm or 7.28".
The second number is the aspect ratio. This is a ratio of sidewall height to width. In the example above, the tire is 7.28" wide, multiply that by the aspect ratio to find the height of one sidewall. In this case, 185x0.60=111mm or 7.28"x0.60=4.36".
The last number is the diameter of the wheel in inches.
To figure the outside diameter of a tire, take the sidewall height and multiply by 2,(remember that the diameter is made up of 2 sidewalls, the one above the wheel, and the one below the wheel) and add the diameter of the wheel to get your answer.
http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/showthread.php?t=9063&page=3&highlight=traile- r+hitch
Also check photo at: http://www.greenhybrid.com/share/image2059.html
To see how hitch has to be designed to provide access for the HVBattery A/C refrigerant lines.
tirerack will show you the actual revolutions per mile for individual tires. the treadwear info is available there too.
like i said, nor all tires of the same size are actually the same size. i did a 30 measured mile run with my michelin equipped vehicle. it still registers 1% under(30 miles registered 29.7 on the odometer) after about 18k miles.
Thanks!
So -- what about lowering springs? I've seen some advertised for Gen 1 V6 Escapes that supposedly lower by 1.5" (eibach, for example).
Obviously there a weight difference and probably a spring rate difference in the Hybrid. Does anyone know if these aftermarket springs would fit, and what the spring rates/dimensions are? I did have my Expedition XLT lowered and it improved the handling but it had truckish torsion bars instead of front coil springs.
You probably won't find a FEH at a dealer anyway.
Mark
If you need the room in the box most of the time...I think you need a larger vehicle - Highlander, Explorer, etc.
If you only need the box room for trips (every other month or less ?) then perhaps an FEH with the box taken on and off for the trips.
If you are going with a smaller vehicle with a full-time box on top - might as well go with a Subaru Outback or Forester or similar - they can get in the mid-20s mpg. (however, also lowered somewhat with the box on top)
The FEH will save a lot in exhaust emissions!
Depends on your priorities. Good Luck!
Reduced ground clearance is not an issue for me
BTW, there were 6 2008 Hybrid Escapes and 5 Hybrid Mariners on the dealer lots in Sunnyvale CA last week, with more on the way.
Anyway, my question is more about fit and specifications of lowering springs -- has anybody done it?
On my stereo there is a button that is listed as "MP3 DIR" - what is that? Is there a connection for an MP3 player that i haven't found? Please email me at ylclarence@yahoo.com if you have an answer. Thanks!