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Get your money back with whatever means possible (except murder, hehe). Tell them you know others with the same problem and they didn't have to pay anything for diags with the ext.warranty. Also tell them you 'll take them to small claims court and then they 'll have to pay for your expenses and trouble they put you through when you win. It costs like $10-20 to file your case and take them to small claims court. If they don't show up for court, you automatically win but I 'm pretty sure they 'll settle out of court since the amount is so minute and I 'm sure they don't want bad publicity. Also tell them that your friend works at the local newspaper and can publish a story about them. Don't give up!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
If there is a dealer incentive on them, you can the SH for hundreds or a $1,000 under invoice and the dealer still makes a few hundred bucks. I got my '99 GSR for $400 under dealer invoice because there was a $1,000 incentive. Dealer still made $600 on it.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I spent some time searching the board for a while, and couldn't find anything on this topic, sooooo....
I have a 99 Prelude Base model, and I've noticed over the past six months the engine has gradually developed an odd noise at high RPMs. I can best describe it as a hollow, metallic resonant sound, possibly a vibration or ringing. I can't figure out if it is correlated with the VTEC activation or not, but it doesn't seem to be.
BTW, I have most of the same problems other have: oil burning, knocking in back rear (coil?), etc. I orginally became worried that there was some oil circulation problem, or else something might be loose, but haven't located anything.
Just wondering if anybody's heard of this problem.
Thanks,
Len
God, at 60k miles my car feels 200K miles old!!! I take really good care of it and never abuse it. I think I should get rid of my lude now :-( The last problem with the check engine light was solved by replacing the O2 sensor (Only1harry: Dealer has refused to give me my diag fee back and says I should claim it from Honda care), but the RPMs are still not consistent and sometimes drop to 500 and the car starts to vibrate. The exhaust also sounds strange - sounds more like blup blup than burr burr. Rear brake rotors are out of shape and need to be replaced - expensive! The whole suspension feels like it's going to fall apart anytime - not to mention all the annoying clicking sounds. AND, folks at honda service say eveything is alright and normal !!!
Sorry to hear about your Lude. Have you done a tune-up since you bought it? Plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor?
Go buy the rear rotors at www.hparts.com (30-40% cheaper than dealer's price) and call around local shops and ask them how much for labor to install 2 rotors. Order the rear pads as well. You can't use old pads on new rotors. You 'll be surprised how much you can save. That's what I do. The rotors for my Civic (front) were like $48/ea at hparts.com and both pads were like $30. Got them installed for $55 (1hr labor, took the guy 25-30 min. for everything). So parts (with shipping) & labor cost me under $200. Dealer will probably want close to $400, right? Screw the dealer. Also get the plugs, wires, air filter, distr. cap/rotor from hparts too and do it your self like I did. It's very easy, even if you 've never done it before. You just need the tools which are nothing special and can get away with doing almost everything with a cheap $30-40 Craftsman 50-piece mechanic's kit like I have. You may have to buy a long socket for the spark plugs seperately, that's about it.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks again for listening!
I do have a question about oil changes. I read one one web site a quote, from a "Honda Racing Team Technician", that it should be changed at 100 miles, then again at 500 miles. Yet, I've heard rumors about the new oil having special lubricants, etc. I looked at the Prelude User Manual, and it said during the break-in period, do NOT change to oil before the time indicated in the maintenence schedule (7,500 miles). BUT, my Honda dealer has a service book, with free oil changes, etc., and the first oil change in the book is 3,750 miles. They recommend every 3,750 miles and you must keep the book "up to date" to qualify for a trade-in incentive/other stuff. Any advice? Thanks!
the way it looks right now, I will not be able to get more than 200 miles out of one tank, that would be 12.5 miles per gallon and this is not a pickup, right and i never vteced before so that can not be it right ?
Your dealer should give you all the keys if you insist - since you OWN them along with the car. However, it may not be a bad idea to leave it with them. I only have one black key and use the grey as a back up.
keys...I got, 2 black, one red and one gray key.
Why not try this experiment yourself?
If this does not improve after 1000 miles, I would call the dealer and ask their suggestions before doing anything myself since the car is under warranty.
Good luck.
I only have about 700 miles on it now, so I think that the scratches that are hardly visible, actually only visible if the car has been just washed and it is in the sun ?
besides is anybody aware of online repair manuals ?
Return your car immediately and buy an automatic Aztek or something.
THANKS
Early rev limiter: rev limiter should not kick in below 7500, unless your car was not warm enough. Since you'd just started the car and Vteched it right away, that's what would happen. I don't believe it should hurt your car, though.
If you spend some time and go thru ALL previous posts here, you'd learn a lot of things that you'd like to know.
How do you deal with the addiction the car gives you ? I have trouible to keep the fingersoff of mine
Also, can't help you with the driving addiction problem - I drove 35K miles last year alone!! ;-)
If you decide to go with 17" wheels you have to make sure they 're lighter than your original 16" which I think are 17-18lbs. You also have to give the tires a chance to break in. They 'll grip much better after 1500-2,000 mi. If you 're not happy with them just upgrade the tires some ZR rated summer tires, Bridgestone RE730 or Yokohama AVS Intermediate, Pirelli P7000, etc. They 'll make a big difference.
Never REV high unless the motor is at normal operating temperature! Apparently you didn't read the whole manual because I 'm pretty sure it says it in there. Don't waste your money and time on 17" wheels. Your 16" wheels have the proper offset for minimal tire and suspension wear. Just get better tires and wash the car yourself if you don't want little tiny scratches all over from the Car Wash "brushless" brushes.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
1. It snowed here in NJ on Monday. I took the car to a "hands only" car wash. When I get home, I notice a bunch of scratches on the car. They are not deep at all, they are just surface. How can I get rid of them or at least covered them up. This is driving me crazy. I only had the car for 5 days. I'm never going back to that car wash.
2. When should I have my first oil change?
3. After how many miles can I start pushing the car hard. You know taking it to VTEC?
4. Can I wax the car now? If I do would it damage the paint at all?
Thank you for taking the time to read this message. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
In regarding to your questions:
Yes, you can wax your car at ANY time you want to. It will only provide more protection if you wax it more. And yes, waxing it is a good way to remove/hide most of those small scatches. Just make sure next time, wash the car yourself or take it to some good quality hand wash place.
Due to the manual, you can start to rev the car to VTEC range after 500-600 miles, but I would say 200 should be good(if you just do it once in a while and does NOT intended to drive the car for more than 200k.)
Your first oil change should be about 3000 miles. but again, it won't hurt if you change it earlier. There is no such thing as break-in oil (At least for Honda) and the more frequent your change the oil, the more protection to the engine and more VTEC of-course.
Hope this will help.
I've already put 500 miles on the car since Saturday. I love driving this car. I must say this morning driving to work I took it to VTEC for the first time. WHOA!!! That's all I can say. I can't wait to install the intake. Also, another question. Do you recomment any product in particular to remove the scratches and swirl marks. I hear that Turtle Wax Swirl Remover is great. Thanks.
Will a professional buff be sufficient ?
Welcome to the Prelude family...
My post is about using a mask/bra on the front end. The car is "Milano Red" and seems to be really easy to pick up stone chips. I read the posts about using a bra and the consensus seems to be that you have to remove/clean/re-wax every time it rains. That seems a little silly.
Though I've not used a bra/mask on my other cars, I wouldn't think that a product designed to be a protectant could represent so many bad side-effects. What's worse, faded paint or a small stone chip? You'd think the manufacturers of these products would be aware of these paint issues.
Anyway - I'd like to know what successes (or otherwise)Prelude owners have had using the "half-mask" on a flat paint color like Milano Red. I like to take good care of my car, and I enjoy washing and waxing it. I don't always have the time to do it (like so many of us), so I want to know what the nuts and bolts of using this product might be. Thanks to all who have advice.
www.xpel.com/paint/applications.html
I haven't used it, but it seems worth considering.
I have heard the mask/bra can actually dull the clearcoat and depending on how long you leave the mask/bra on, it can cause the paint to age differently.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Honda told me that is just the clutch!!!!
The tech told me that the engine is fine. He still has to inspect the tranny. Guys I'm going crazy here. I think that Honda is trying to screw me. What should I do???? They said that the car will be ready tomorrow afternoon. Wish me luck!!!
By the way everything is been covered by the warranty.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
If the clutch is all that needs replacing then again consider yourself lucky. In most other HiPro cars you'd be looking at a whole new engine.
If you really think that they're trying to get out of replacing something, then I would take it to a mechanic who specializes in Honda cars and have them do a thorough (ie compression test) inspection. It'll cost you a couple bucks, but may just give you the piece of mind you're looking for.
-Josh
jsh139 I wasn't bashing Honda. I'm very thankful that they are doing this under warranty. I mess up big time. I really don't know how it happen. It felt like a normal 3rd to 4th shift. I was worry that I needed a new engine and they were just replacing the clutch just to make me happy.
And yes I told them the truth.
only1harry The rev limiter did engage, so engine is fine. So they say.
I'll let you guys know tomorrow. I'm taking my friend with me who also owns a SH to do a little back to back comparison.
My car was in a bad accident - as a result - I do not want it. Thinking of Prelude, Saab 9-3, and another Jetta VR6. My question is:
In the base Prelude, with automatic, does the car still perform well? I know people will hate me for getting an automatic, but I require it for my DC/VA commute. I like the Prelude's simple style, long hood, and simple interior. I would get aftermarket leather though...
Anyone out there have the auto 97-01 Prelude? Any comments or advice? Thanks
Oh - do you HAVE to use premium gas???