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Mazda Protegé

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Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    "...or is Mazda playing the same type of game with numbers as they did with the Miata? "

    I don't think they were playing games with the type of action they have taken. You don't voluntarily offer to buyback cars or offer service and cash as part of a game. I would guess that it was truly a mistake. As far as your canuck Pro HP, I have no idea.

    :)
  • gserep1gserep1 Member Posts: 92
    Hello Again,
    In response to your question, on the Protege 1.5 and 1.8 engines, the valve cover gasket has to be removed in order to inspect the belt. Remove the spark plug wires, making sure to mark where they came from if you are not familiar with this procedure. The whole procedure is BEST done when the engine is COLD, for obvious reasons.

    Remove the valve cover hold-down bolts, and carefully remove the valve cover. The belt will be visible on the passenger side of the car. It wil be laced across both cam pulleys.

    Using a contrasting colored marker or "white out", make a thin mark across the width of the belt for location purposes, and with the aid of an assistant behind the wheel, quickly and lightly "bump" the starter. Since the spark plug wires are disconnected, there is no chance the engine will start. Observe the condition of the belt as it goes around, looking for cracks in the "cogged" section that rests inside the pulleys. Check one section at a time. Look for oil and antifreeze, and any visible signs of the belt rubbing on any surface. Make sure that the belt does at least one complete revolution around the pulleys (as indicated by the dark marker line coming back up again.) Make as many revolutions as necessary to check the entire belt. One weak area renders the belt useless, and should be changed at that point.

    Touch the belt and feel the slack between the 2 cams. The belt should be snug in that area. Excessive slack in this area indicates a worn belt/and/or worn tensioner. Generally 1/2 inch deflection or less is sufficient. Look for frayed edges on both ends of the belt. Further, the internal "teeth" should be pointy and not rounded off on the edges, (which indicates slippage on the teeth of the pulleys. Those teeth also should not look "glazed".

    The entire belt compartment area should be clean and DRY as stated before. A small amount of dust inside indicates that no moisture is present. Moisture of any kind is a sign that you have a leak. Investigate, determine the source, and repair any leaks before continuing.

    If all of this is fine, inspect your valve cover gasket and replace if necessary. Replace the valve cover, and correctly reinstall the spark plug wires. Do not over torque the bolts. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

    In NO case should you exceed 120,000 miles on the same belt. The risk is too great at that point. The belt will usually be brittle internally by then, and could break at anytime regardless of appearance. I usually change it around 105,000 if it has looked good up to that point, and much less when it is obvious that it needs changing. Factory belts seem to work better and last longer than after-market belts, regardless of who makes it.(Many years of changing belts at Pep Boys has proven this fact out. Many repeat jobs due to inferior belts makes me a firm believer in the factory belt).

    Good luck,
    GSEREP1
  • jondavmarjondavmar Member Posts: 6
    Before I begin, I must once again thank all of the informative contributors to this excellent forum. It is greatly appreciated.

    I finally had the opportunity to rent a Protege for over a week. It was an 1.8 LX with P14 tires. The only thing that I really disliked about the car was the road and tire noise. Otherwise, it was a pleasure to drive, although a little more "oomph" would have been nice on occasion. Would the P15 tires on a 2.0 LX, and perhaps from a different manufacturer, noticeably decrease the noise level, or am I asking too much for an entry-level car, even though it is of such high quality?

    One reason I'm not interested in the ES is that it uses peformance tires which according to those more knowledgeable than I increases the road/tire noise.

    Thanks!
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Thanks for the info on y9ur new Pro. We are looking at the auto ES too and will probably buy one soon. I also just heard about the S plan and it is available to me thro my company. Didn't know you could get it otherwise. I'm not sure that the S plan guarantees a lower price than bargaining because I checked on a Ford Focus S plan price at the dealer's and then walked out on the lot and saw the same car marked 'Clearance' at a lower price. Anyway the visit to the Ford dealer was just a check No more Fords and I'm glad to hear that they have kept their hands off the vital parts of a Pro. Also some delaers in this area want me to come in before they will give me the S plan price. One gave me a price over the phone (he said it would be within 100 bucks since he did not have the actual invoice)of 13,700 for a base ES 5 spd with moonroof after the rebate. Looks like I might be able to get an auto with the ABS package, if available , for around 14,000, Does that sound incredible to any of you proud Pro owners?
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Assuming $13,700 is correct, how did you figure you could add automatic trans. and ABS for $300 more?

    Are you saying $13,700 for base ES 5-sp and moonroof and $14,000 for base ES + auto. trans. + ABS and no moon roof? If so, good luck finding one with ABS and no moon roof. I would like to track one down too. Mazda's offering a $500 rebate and free moon roof on the ES. Not sure if the rebate goes up to $1,000 without a moon roof.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Invoice on an ES is $14,525+$480(freight). Take $218 (1.5 % of invoice, but I've heard 1.15% also) off for the S-Plan and $500 for the rebate. Price is now $14,287. Are you getting the $400 College Grad rebate too? With that, the price is $13,887. Close enough I guess.
  • pcalvinpcalvin Member Posts: 44
    My '01 ES has 16 inch Dunlop sp-5000's. They are amazingly quiet. I was driving a '92 Buick LeSabre which was absolutely quiet. The Pro allows quite a bit more noise into the cabin than that did, but almost none of the noise I hear is from the tires, and it's not at all obtrusive. I've heard that the previous tires Mazda put on the Protégés were noisy. The Dunlop tires do an amazing job of supplying great performance with ride quality and low noise. JM$.02
  • logger1logger1 Member Posts: 14
    We are thinking of buying a 2.0 Lx Protege with ABS/side Airbags & Comfort Package because my wife likes the driving "feel," but when I asked the price for a 100K warranty it was given as $1,500. An eqivalent Civic LX goes for about $600. What is going on here? Is the Protege that bad? Or is there some other factor involved?

    Lou H
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You could be comparing apples and oranges. Extended warranties come in many varieties and the dealer can charge what they want to for the plan. Make sure you are talking about the same component coverage and the same deductible amounts. Read the fine print and talk to more than one dealer.

    :)
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Well, I assume $1,500 was just the dealer's first shot. Definitely don't pay $1,500 to essentially extend the warranty another 50K miles.
  • logger1logger1 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks For Quick Feedback

    We are in Fresno, CA and the local dealer has a problem with Better Business Bureau. So we looked outside of town. But that $1,500 extented warranty was a shock at the nest closest dealer.

    We will keep checking.

    Thanx

    Lou H
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    I was given a copy of my invoice when I recently bought my Pro ES with auto and prem. pkg. Retail was $18,395. Invoice was $17,021."E Plan" (anybody know what that is?) was listed as being $16,205, and S plan was $16,827, what I was charged. The S plan in my case was 1.14% below invoice. Besides sales tax, the only other fee I paid was $23 for license and title transfer. Don't let 'em charge you anything extra for paperwork, because it's not allowed. I would recommend calling your county clerk's office and finding out exactly what these fees are for your state and go in with that info. If the dealer tries to charge you more, tell him that the S plan rules specifically prohibit that. The commission that Mazda pays the dealer covers any paperwork fees. The dealer I did buy from tried to charge me their "standard" $199 doc fee, but I was ready, and the dealer asked me what I thought I should be charged. When I told him that all I was supposed to pay were the fees for the tags and title transfer, he promptly wrote that down as being the fee without saying another word.

    hkchan,

    A couple of weeks ago, I test drove a silver '01 ES with auto, ABS, and side airbags without a moonroof . This was at Paul Miller Mazda in Lexington, KY. I wanted a moonroof, though, and was thinking about trying to have them "order" it- i.e., try to get one allocated to their next allotment of cars shipped to them from port. However, although they initially said they participated in the S Plan, they tried to tack on both a $349 doc fee as well as a $290 dealer prep fee. Once I found out that the doc fee was prohibited, I said to call me back if they agreed to drop these fees, but I never heard from them again.
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    Regarding the rebate, I was given the $500 general rebate and the $700 moonroof credit. The way I think the new rebate scheme works is that the $1,000 rebate does not apply to ES's and to Proteges with moonroofs (maltb, am I correct here?); however, the $500 rebate would still apply. So if you got a Protege without a moonroof, you would only get a $500 rebate; with a moonroof, a $1200 rebate. I'm really glad I got the moonroof. It's not too noisy (even without the deflector) and seems to work quite well, and best of all it was free!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    E-plan is for Mazda/Ford employees and their immediate family.

    Moonroof credit($700) only applies to the 2.0L trim levels with a moonroof. All others get a $1000 rebate instead of the $500.

    :)
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Check out The Car Connection's review of these two: http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=3633&sid=180&n=157


    I did notice that they report the MP3 as having 130HP. Hmmm...Mazda says 140HP. Let's hope that it actually has 140HP.


    :)

  • lindathomp2000lindathomp2000 Member Posts: 39
    I drove through my dealer's lot last Sunday and noticed at least 10 2001 Proteges on the lot. Most of them are Silver. It is Orange Motors in Albany, NY. If you call them, ask for JJ. Tell him Linda T sent you! They participate in the 'S plan'.
  • shadowfax01shadowfax01 Member Posts: 4
    Are there any advantages to mudguards besides decreasing the dirt on the underside of the car? Does anyone have plain, black non-mazda guards, or do those just look bad?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    that this guy lost control of his Protege:

    http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/wplg/20010514/lo/400923_1.html


    Is the car that powerful? or do you supect that the driver was just too busy singing Zoom Zoom?


    BTW, where have the veterans gone? Protegextwo, Speedypt, mdaffron....anybody home?


    :)

  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I lost control of my Protege once. The DX. I was going about 65 mph and someone in front of me slammed on his brakes. Seeing myself rear-ending him, I hit the brake and flipped the steering wheel quickly. When I did, the car started going back and forth very quickly, and I spun around into a 290-degree turn. I ended up facing oncoming traffic on a busy road around 8.30am (rush hour). I was lucky to be alive, and not hurt at all (except for a little shaken up). So you can lose control of your Protege if you get too wild and crazy...
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I know you can get the front bumper from the P5 for the Protege sedan (on Corksport.com), but can you get the taillamps and make them fit on the sedan? I think they look alot neater than the ones my ES sedan has, and was just thinking about it. Malt, HELP!! :)

    Also, anyone find the cruise control switch/paddle inconvenient? I find myself sometimes hitting the control accidentally when turning the wheel. Kinda wish sometimes it wasn't there. Too bad I can't retrofit the P5 steering wheel. :)
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    I would think retrofitting the steering wheel would be "easier" than the taillamps.
  • kentwongkentwong Member Posts: 36
    Does viewer notice the P5 is 4 inches shorter than the sedan (info from mazdausa.com). I called Mazda today and asked them if the two cars should have the same specs. I'd been told that "they are different cars". Therefore, I guess the truth is P5 is 171.3 inches long rather than 175.3 inches. Edmunds.com shall change the specs on P5 ASAP.
  • newpro4menewpro4me Member Posts: 14
    I saw my first Pro5 today. Silver, automatic. Great looking vehicle. I had hoped to see it in bright yellow. I asked about the "S" plan and they said they would accept it only on vehicles on the lot or special orders. Probably wouldn't be a good deal for them on a dealer transfer. My wife is looking for a 2001 ES, White, with premium package. Kind of hard to come by. Might have to just order it. Mazda dealership in Columbia, SC has about 35 2001, but all are DX or LX and only one LX2.0 with a moonroof. Got to find the ES!!!
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Yes, I think this has been mentioned on this forum. As to whether "they are different cars", I guess it depends on how one defines different. For example, if you consider them different when their taillamps are not interchangeble, then yes. They're different. Hehe.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Thanks again for the info. I know about the Doc fee. The instructions we got from our purchasing dept. specifically stated that we were not to be dunned for this fee. So I'll make sure of that. The only price I got so far was over the phone from a salesman who estimated (he said he was sure he was within $100) $13,700 for an ES with a moonroof (5 spd) on the S plan. He also said the rebate was $1,000. College rebate was not used. I'm wondering now if he was lowballing to get me to come in, unless the moonroof ic being credit back as some of you suggested. He was the only salesman willing to give a price over the phone, the others wanted me to come in, why I don't know. I've also been told by the dealers that I need to have my S plan pin number by calling Ford before they will do the sale.
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    The invoice price for a 2001 ES with moonroof and no other options should be $15,565 (includes dest. charge). If your S plan pricing was like mine, it will be 1.14% below invoice, or 15,565-218= 15,347. Subtract the $1200 rebate (the $500 general rebate which applies to ES's plus the $700 moonroof credit- I think the salesman got your rebate wrong) and you get 14,147, plus sales tax and tags and title transfer fee. So it does sound like he is lowballing you by about $447, assuming the car he gave you a quote on is truly an ES. I would call the salesman back and go over the above figures with him and see what he says. Have him pull the invoice if he can-the S plan price is printed on it.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    You don't get $1,200 off the S-Plan price. Since S-Plan is based on the invoice, you get $560 knocked off the invoice (slightly less off the S-Plan price) and $500 in rebate.
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    The dealer I bought from last week gave me the entire $700, with the S plan pricing! He had me sign forms to the effect that I was assigning the entire rebate back to him. Maltb, if you're out there, isn't that how it's supposed to be done? Should I send my dealer a check back for the ~$140???? :o((
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Hey, if that's the case, great. I stand corrected. More money in my pocket.
  • stevewpsistevewpsi Member Posts: 7
    I purchased a 2001 Mazda Protege ES three weeks ago. I have driven over 500 miles now and the car handles great, but I feel that the ride is not a "soft" one. I can really feel many of the bumps, especially over roads that are not smooth. Is this due to the sport suspension? I test drove an 2.0 LX and do not remember feeling a bumpy ride. I would appreciate if any 2001 ES Protege owners can respond and let me know if they experience a bumpy or hard ride. I am not sure if I should bring it in for the service department to check the suspension or if this is normal for the ES Protege ride. Please advise and thanks for your help!

    For hkchan;
    I purchased the car three weeks ago under the "S" plan and received the $500.00 rebate. The moonroof rebate of $700.00 that hollenhorst2 talks about is news to me. Is it correct and when did Mazda introduce this? Thanks.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    The ES has a firmer suspension than the LX, not sure about the LX2.0.

    The new promotion started 5/3/01 or 5/4/01.
  • djmax813djmax813 Member Posts: 30
    To make a long story short, A local Mazda dealer quoted me 15900 for a loaded auto es w/premium pack, mats etc. That sounds fair enought but maybe not now that i am reading about some s-plan. can someone please explain what it is and how I can use it?
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    I think it really is normal for the ES suspension to be a bit stiffer than the LX. I have an ES, but never have driven an LX, so I really can't give you a comparative answer. However, I completely understand what you're saying. There is probably a little bit of a tradeoff between ride comfort and better handling, but personally I think it's well worth it in the case of the ES. One thing you should definitely do if you haven't done so already is check your tires' air pressure. I think 32 psi is recommended. After I got mine home from the dealer, 3 of mine were 35. It did help, albeit slightly, as far as ride comfort was concerned, to lower them to 32.

    Regarding the rebate, I think it only started about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks ago (I bought mine one week ago), so you probably missed out on it. You could call Mazda N.A., though to find out the exact date it started to be sure you aren't entitled to it.
  • stevewpsistevewpsi Member Posts: 7
    Do you own a 2001 Mazda Protege ES? Have you test driven one? If so, have you experienced an unusually bumpy ride or tight ride. Please advise. Do you think there is a problem with the car that I am driving. The dealer said it is due to a tight suspension system.

    I picked up the car April 30, maybe Mazda will honor the rebate for the moon roof. That would amount to another $700.00 dollars. I believe it is an issue with Mazda, not the dealer.

    Please let me know your thoughts on both issues. Thanks.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Not yet (not until the dealers care enough to return my emails).
    Yes.
    Unusually bumpy? That's subjective, but my reaction was that the "average" person would not like it.
    Probably not.
    Probably correct.
    If it makes you feel better, drive another ES to compare. But if you "hate" the ride, you hate the ride. But I guess you prefer that there's actually something wrong. That way, there's hope.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    I bought the Pro LX 2.0L in April and I know what you mean about a bumpy ride. The Pro LX has suspension similar to the ES since it has the 2.0L engine.

    After I got about 400 miles on it the suspension seemed to soften up a bit, the struts softened up. Over rough pavement you will feel the bumps. On smooth pavement it rides fine. And on expressways and Interstates when you hit patches you don't notice them as much as when going at slower speeds in town. You are over them and gone.

    Part is the suspension, part is the short wheelbase, and the stiffer struts. You get use to it. You also learn the streets that have bad pavement and drive to miss most of them. Some streets I travel have a lot of manhole covers,I take the passing lane to avoid them and noticed that other drivers in cars with softer suspension also do that. Everybody hangs left after a certain intersection.

    hkchan: I got the heater fixed this morning. The technician who installed the cassette player left a cable disconnected. :D

    vocus: I, too, have that problem with the cruise control stalk...hitting it when I turn the wheel. Put in a request for a “standard” CC on their next Protegé in a letter that accompanied the return of the Mazda survey.

    Mazda uses some old technology and its parts to save money. The cruise control stalk idea is old, on the first cars that got cc. So is the D4 cutoff button, Ford’s have had that for years on cars, vans and trucks with AT.

    hkcham: “If you think there’s something wrong, then there’s hope.” Good line! LOL

    And if the steering wheel jumps up and down, there IS hope, the wheels are out of balance. Have them checked.

    fowler3
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I can relate to the slightly stiffer ride. I used to have a 1999 DX model (same underpinnings as the LX 1.6) and traded it for a 2001 ES. I do notice the ride is a little firmer over rough roads, but don't mind because I gained alot in handling prowess. If you check the article on Edmund's about the ES model, you will notice it has stiffer stabilizer bars than the rest of the models because it's the sporty model. So, yes, the firmer ride is an ES-only trait. But take an off ramp rated at 25 mph at 50 once, and you will not mind the stiff ride anymore. :)
  • stevewpsistevewpsi Member Posts: 7
    Thank you for responding. Do you feel the bumps when you drive?; I will call it a hard ride. The ride is not that comfortable, but the car handles great. Does that make sense?

    Thanks again. It is good to get a prospective from another ES driver. What color do you have? I have the seabreeze green.
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    I agree that the O/D button is old (83 Toyota Camry?), but what's the newer, higher-tech, more-expensive alternative?
  • stevewpsistevewpsi Member Posts: 7
    Thank you for responding. Do you feel the bumps when you drive?; I will call it a hard ride. The ride is not that comfortable, but the car handles great. Does that make sense?

    Thanks again. It is good to get a prospective from another ES driver. What color do you have? I have the seabreeze green.
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    The S plan is part of Ford's "Partner Recognition Program," through which participating members can purchase Fords or Mazdas (among others) at special, no-haggle discount prices slightly below invoice. The easiest way to participate is to become a member of the EAA (experimental aircraft assoc.). Go to:

     http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/ford_partner.html


    for details.


    You should be aware, though, that it may be tough to get a loaded ES under the S Plan, as dealers' participation is voluntary, and they are becoming increasingly resistant to selling vehicles under the plan that they would have a hard time replacing .


    That price you were quoted, $15,900, is $1,121 under the invoice price of $17,021 for a '01 ES with premium pkg and auto (exactly what I have). I'm thinking that this offer includes the $1,200 in rebates currently in effect for the car. My S plan price was $16,827. Subtract the $1,200 rebate and my price before ttl was $15,627. That's only $273 difference on a car that my guess is they're not gonna let go on the S plan. However, it wouldn't hurt to ask the dealer if they'd sell it that way. Keep in mind it does cost $40 to join the eaa, so that's a net difference of $233. IMO the price you got is pretty fair for a great car! Just don't let 'em gouge you on doc fees and dealer packs. The S plan prohibits them from charging you the doc fees over and above what it costs them to pay to have the car titled in your name and for the tags.

  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    The newer, high-tech, more EXPENSIVE alternative is the SportShift used by Dodge, Audi, VW, and others. Wonder what those cost to repair? A regular AT is easy to trash, those would be extremely expensive to replace. =P

    So, old and reliable isn’t always bad. Especially if it is cheaper.

    fowler3
  • hollenhorst2hollenhorst2 Member Posts: 51
    I have the black mica color. I definitely do feel what you're describing, but to me it's really not uncomfortable, and again, well worth the tradeoff for the good handling you get. You can't have it all in a car in this price range, but this is getting pretty close!
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    Got it.
  • rsparrowrsparrow Member Posts: 60
    from Canadian Driver... hadn't seen one in red yet... looks good!


    http://www.canadiandriver.com/previews/02protege5.htm

  • tocantocan Member Posts: 118
    It looks even better in person!!!

    Nomi
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I got my 2001 ES Premium Pkg. w/automatic and cassette under the S Plan. They had just gotten the car in that day, and I bought it that night. I have the black too. It's good looking when clean, but that's next to never. :) Anyway, they didn't bulk at selling me the car. But, they did make it clear they wanted to close the deal quickly or else sell the car to someone willing to pay MSRP for it. Too bad, it's mine now. :)

    Will turn 6000 miles tomorrow. Trouble free and still LOVING IT!! :)

    ZOOM ZOOM!!!
  • theparallaxtheparallax Member Posts: 361
    I just slapped this together messing around on my computer...ever notice how the IS300 and new WRX look similar to the Protege between the A and C pillars? I said this a while back but here's a better pic...


    image

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    FYI...the suspension on the LX 2.0L is NOT the same as the ES. The suspension on the LX 2.0 is the same as the LX and DX grades with the 1.6L

    :)
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Kinda knew that. I will take the upgraded suspension though, for its handling. BTW, how's it going with your DX model? You still have it?

    I looked on Corksport.com last night for the front bumper/side skirts from the Sport 20. By the time I would get done with it all, it would be like $2400. Never mind now. Don't have all that money laying around. :(
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