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Comments
My mother has a 1999 LX auto, and I'm thinking of picking up a 2001 LX 5sp in the spring, either the 1.6 or the 2.0.
I fully realize the ES has more power. But for me, MPG is important. I've gotten 35MPG in my mother's LX (200mi trip, 80% hwy) & I'd like to do the same in my car.
To mhgsx- we are actually in the Cincinnati area- but I am glad you got such a good deal! Have fun- zoom-zoom! Lynn
Larry
The handling is great, but I need to get past the break-in mileage. Staying below 4000 rpm is SOOO hard! I actually went over once or twice, but only by 100 or 200 rpm, so that's not too bad. It flies evem keeping the revs low. I am about to fill the tank for the first time, so I will tell everyone how my fuel economy is thus far. Also, I have been 65/35% highway/city thus far. I can't wait to get up in the morning and take it to work for the first time tomorrow! Did I mention, I LOVE THIS CAR?!?!?!
ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM!
you have been warned... But enjoy anyway!
H
*cough, cough* "I think I feel something comming on". *cough, cough*
I was just talking to one of my co-workers, and he said I should add synthetic oil to my car at 1000 miles, and also change the oil at 500 miles, but put regular oil back in. At what mileage is it safe to add synthetic oil to the engine?
The reason for this is that putting synthetic in too early can prevent proper seating of the rings because synthetic is so slippery compared to dyno oil.
man, you really kicked your DX and then praised your pontiac and left her too for the ES.
I cannot imagine what next?
Anyway, have a great ZOOM ZOOM day with your ES.
I had planned to keep the DX for a long time when I bought it, but it just grew uncomfortable after a year or so. Just got tired of it. I had wanted the ES when I got the DX, but it didn't quite work out that way. This time, the dealer tried to get me to go with a 2000 ES to get rid of it. I told him no, because I knew I would be back in a year or two for the 2001 or 2002 and I wasn't settling anymore. It was my way or the highway. Glad it turned out to be my way.
15 more minutes before 5pm EST, which is ZOOM ZOOM time for me!!!
Alan writes:
>A trusted friend of mine said that I will have trouble seating the rings in
>my new engine w/ the Mobil 1 I put in. True? Engine so far has only run 1
>hour and no oil burning evident.
>TIA,
>Alan
Most engine builders use and recommend non synthetic on new engines, since
the final "machining" (seating, mating) of surfaces is done while the new
engine is running. I believe it was Hot Rod Magazine did a long article on
this several years ago. What they reported was that the synthetics really
didn't allow the proper seating of critical interference machined components.
Most builders recommended (and what I go by) dyno oil (shale oil, not sand
oil - ala quaker state, but don't remember why exactly) for the first 2 or 3
oil changes, then switch to synthetic. One of the major builders said 10k
miles, which is about right at 3 oil changes. Although you have no evident
problems, the theory is you really haven't allowed the proper seating, by
using the synthetic from the get go.
Lots of documentation on the controversy of this concept, but most use the
dyno oil for the first x thousand miles/x oil changes of new motor operation,
cuz it certainly isn't hurting anything. The gains are longer term, properly
breaking in a new motor, makes it last longer.
If I remember the article correctly, those that have a new motor with
synthetic in it should add 1 oil change to the dyno oil routine above. If I
can find the article, I will post it up. Right now, your safe bet is to
switch to dyno oil for a few changes, then go back to synthetic.
HTH
Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
QSHIPQ@aol.com
.... and then back to more salt and dirt... sigh...
H
I switched to synthetic around 20k miles, and it did make a big difference in terms of quietness and feel (the engine feels at ease on highway.) Now I just need to see if the new bosch platinum plugs are going to help..hehe.
Supposedly the "fuelmax" increases fuel effiency with magnets??? Does anyone know if this is a hoax?
Also, the dealer here charges $69 per set for mudguards installed. with that being almost $140 for a some pieces of plastic, it seems a bit steep. Has anyone put these on themselves?
Thanks
MARTIN
From experience, these are tough little engine's. Our 1990 323 1.6L has 260 000kms on it. I really flogged this car when I drove it...and we usually changed the oil 2 to 3 times a year which sometimes worked out to over 12000 kms without an oil change. And you know what, the engine still runs smoother than most new engines!!
My 2 cents. Call it overkill, some say it is plain wrong, nonetheless; I change oil at 500, 1000 and every 3500 miles there after in any new car I buy. It might be wrong,(Honda Service Advisors, for one makes a point of holding off, on the 1st change until 5000 or so), however I believe clean fresh oil in a new motor is critical to long engine life. For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals.
If not, how do you know that the frequent oil changes made a difference?
I'm not challenging your belief, just curious...
I am going to change the oil at 1000 miles, then at 3500, then every 3500 thereafter. Around 10K, I will change to synthetic. How does that sound?
Click on the link and then select 98 protege wire.jpg
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/maltbarley?d&.flabel=fld9&.src=ph&start=1
Good Luck,
AREA: REAR WINDOW DE-FROST element.
Problem: Right wire going to defroster is not bent up. Left one is bent up. Is this normal? I think someone did not push the connector up.
If you have no idea what I am talking about, let me know.
Respectfully;
Larry
In your first post, you stated "For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals." To me, that insinuates that you did in fact have problems with vehicles you didn't maintain in this fashion.
My post was simply a request to hear about those cases. I too change the oil in my Mazda 626 religiously at 4000 mile intervals, using Mobil 1, but I continuously wonder if such devotion is necessary. Since this is the way I've always done it, I have nothing with which to compare.
I have to take the car back to the dealer because I am getting the cargo net installed on 3/17. I was also thinking about a nose mask too, but too lazy to take it off every time it rains or I wash it.
I just drove to lunch on the Capital Beltway for a bit. It's about 65-70 degrees here in Md. today. I had the sunroof open, the CD player going, and the windows down. GOD I didn't wanna come back to work! I definitely have a BAD case of ZOOMitis!! And PROUD OF IT!!!
3 hours and 33 minutes left until 5pm when I get to ZOOM again!
1. The Mazda Protege is among the best of the small cars. Of the different configurations, LX2.0 seems to be the preferred option.
2. The quality and durability of this car are excellent. No obvious areas of mechanical or design weakness have been mentioned (as opposed to the many gripes I see posted for other cars).
3. Maybe the Protege's biggest disadvantage is a lack of space in the back (frankly, what you expect of a small car).
4. The 2001 model includes some changes to the 2000 model, but they are not substantial. In other words, a 2000 model with 10K miles offers much the same as a new 2001, but without the depreciation hit.
There have been several references to an S plan. In case we go the new car route, can someone provide a brief summary of what this is, how it works, and where I can find out more about it?
I paid 1.5% under invoice (just like everyone with the S Plan) for my 2001 Protege ES 2.0 Premium. Considering the best deal I saw for the 2001 was like $400-600 over invoice, I think I did pretty well.
And as far as the 2000 vs. the 2001, they are pretty much the same car. But be warned that the 2000 model does not have the 2.0 engine in it. It has a 1.8 in the ES, which is a good engine. But ALL DX and LX models have the 1.6 engine (slow) only.
And the back seat of this car is extremely roomy for its external size. I have never seen any complaints about back seat room for the Protege. I have loaded people in the back as tall as 6'3 (I am 6'3 as well, and sat back there before) and there is enough room for them to be comfortable.
Only thing about the Protege is that they don't hold their value well, but what small car on the road does? Honda, but you pay ALOT more for one of those than you do the Protege. And they are so damn boring to drive too!
I just bought a 2001 ES 2.0 and wouldn't trade it for anything in the world, including a boring Honda. So compare the Protege to its direct rivals and see what you come up with. Hopefully you will see the light and join us in spreading ZOOMitis!!!
Now that my mother has a nifty new 1999 Protege LX, we're going to change the oil per the manual, no more and no less. My personal opinion is there's no reason to change the oil more than specified by the manufacturer.
Just my two cents.
Borg
Something to think about.
I got mine with remote lights and remote start. All the signals are encrypted, so I don't have to worry about anyone remote starting my car and taking off with it. I can even park the car, pull the keys out and run into a store, with the engine running the whole time. It's great for winter when you need the heat running and the summer and you want to cool things down in the car before you get in.
Viper's got an adaptable alarm that will minimize false alarms.
2. Go to a different dealer. Ask the dealer to list every charge, tax, fees blah blah blah so you don't get surprises when signing the contract. Don't pull the trigger until you're satisfied with the deal.