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The sound seems to be centered in the truck -like the tranny but its hard to tell. It doesn't change when the truck shifts gears but it does change with speed (higher as I go faster etc). It doesn't matter if I am under power or coasting. Above 45 it goes away and sometimes it seems to go away for days. I changed the bearings an front discs myself 6 months ago. I was very careful with the grease etc. and I don't "feel" anything from any of the corners. Any educated guesses? I checked the tranny fluid it looks fine. I never checked the rear though.
Thanks
Has anyone experienced this problem or know what it might me?
Any input would be appreciated.
SIA
P.S. for a cheap shop manual I have found that instead of paying 116 bucks for one check out thrift stores or used book stores the last shop manual I got at a thrift was 2 dollors/ but if you live in tucson don't try it till I find one for my new truck;)
!. My door switch does that stupid staying on thing but I figured it out I think, I saw someone mention it happens when it's cold, have you noticed if your windows is all the way up it does it? the air pressure of slamming the door pushes the weather stripping out and it rests inward too much( which the design is a little off since it will happen all the time when the weather strip wears down)
2. My air conditioner compressor stays on no matter what position the switch is in which sucks when you want heat but don't want to have that bad of miliage especially when I drive 100 miles a day.
I have yet to figure out the A/C problem so if anyone knows than let me know or when I find out I will post it.
And I will end this with a note
nothing ever "blows up" instantly, in a hour, or usually even a week so once a week drive your vehicle 10 miles with no music on a quiet road and listen to it, and just for extra caution do a 10 min inspection for leaks and such at the drivetrain (pay attention to the rear differitial I see so many trucks leaking back there while I drive around and I see alot of damage because of that) it won't kill anyone to spend 30 min of TV time on your truck instead.
And most of all we all want to just jump into a new vehicle drive it 200,000 miles and abuse it without ever thinking about it but that never works for anything, So don't hate your truck because you slacked and it broke down just be happy you don't still drive your mom's Pinto
SIA
Thanks,
Mark
What I'm wondering is, is it possible and if so, can you swap the dash with one from a newer Ranger, or from an Explorer? I want to give the truck a newer look, and want to see if anybody thinks its possible, and if so, which one matches to the mounting brackets of the Ranger? :confuse:
Also, when you do that, how hard is it to change it from manual air and heat, to powered? I am making the windows powered, and just want to see how hard it is to change the air and heat to powered.
it was coming from the outside. Then my cab started filling with smoke. I quickly
jumped the curb (no shoulder) up on a sidewalk, jumped out, raised the hood expecting flames to be coming from my engine compartment but nothing. I got back in my truck letting it air out and feeling for warm spots on the dash but nothing. I cranked the engine and everything was working fine. A couple of days latter on a warm day I jumped in my truck and turned on the AC only to fine none of the lower speeds on my fan would work, only the highest speed works. My question is what part do I need to get to get my fan speeds working and where is the part located. Thanks, Bob :confuse:
Your 'resistor' pack has burned up. This sometimes happens. I can't give you exact location, but it's under the hood, right side, on the firewall. There is the box where the blower sits. You should find some kind of little box with wires into it.
I would just buy a new one (95% sure this is the problem), the aftermarket stores should have one of these, then look for something that looks like this on the fan box under the hood.....
121 ³ Indicates throttle position voltage inconsistant with the MAF sensor
122 ³ Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit below minimum voltage
Looks like a TPS problem to me....... This is usually on the throttle linkage at the throttle body. It tells the computer if throttle is closed, how far open, etc.
I appreciate the help.
I don't know about the lights being affected. But anytime you have electrical things 'burning up', it will cause surges, which probably can be seen as flickers of the lights.
I've just read through all of the posts here, starting with #1, and have only found, I think, 3 that seem to describe the problem I'm experiencing - all 3 with no replies! The problem is that, when I would push in the clutch, the RPMs would go up to 4000 +, then when I put it in gear and let the clutch out, it would go down. I took the truck to a trusted mechanic and he said that the computer needed to be reprogrammed but that only a dealer could do this because Ford has the independent guys locked out. The TSB he cited was 98-26-8. I took it to the Ford dealer and requested that they do the reprogramming as per the TSB and now it's only revving up to 3000 RPMs. When I asked the guy at the dealership why it was still revving up, he said that sometimes it takes a while for it to re-learn everything after the reprogramming. Does anybody know anything about this?? Your wisdom would be greatly appreciated!
If a computer was causing that high an idle, I think I would report it to the Nat Highway Safety Admin as a safety hazard.... Also check on there for the same complaint...
I would double and triple check that there is not some kind of throttle linkage problem. Something binding, etc. Sticking throttle butterfly valve. Bad Idle Control Valve (I've heard of them causing surging, but nothing this high).
Wild thing to check - Rangers of early 90 had brake boosters breaking off firewall because of rust. Other Fords I've heard of having brake or clutch brackets on firewall breaking, or firewall itself pushing through - maybe something in clutch linkage is really messed up and binding throttle cable????
Also what can one do to extend the life of this truck so that it can last another 5 yrs. :confuse:
And as far as my dome light and door ajar light staying on for hours, I followed a suggestion I saw in this fourm. I purchased a can of PB Blaster from Autozone and sprayed both my door locks real good. Haven't had a problem yet (pretty good stuff).
Now for another problem I need help with. I just changed my heater control valve. Now it seems like the heater door doesn't close right away. Did I do something wrong? It's only 4 water lines and a vacuum hose.I KNOW for sure everything worked properly before I changed this valve, now the heater system is "screwed-up". after about 20 minutes the the door closes and everything turns off as it should. When you select A/C , MAX A/C and the other vent thing, it blows out the floor and defrost vent for a while then out the A/C duct as it should.
Thanks Alot - :mad:
While driving the truck it will start to sputter, you will then lose your speedometer, then the truck slips itself into neutral. It is still running, but just slips into neutral. Then the overdrive light and ABS lights on the dash begin to flash at 100mph. You simply coast off the side of the road, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute or two and start it back up and you are good to go for another 2 days or so, sometimes less, before it happens again.
I've been told that a wiring harness can do this under the drivers seat if corroded, but both dealerships (very reputable ones) have found nothing. I paid $200 plus labor b/c they thought it might be the alternator overcharging, but happened again after I had the truck for only 3hrs. The only thing I can get from them is that all of the codes read high voltage.
Anyone have a clue? Email me at kimble989@frontiernet.net if you do. I cannot afford to be without a vehicle for a fifth trip into the dealer for 1-2 wks.
Thanks,
I talked with a good friend of mine that works for a ford dealership. He said the first thing they try is to just lubricate the latch on the third or fourth door with WD-40 and open and close the door several times. It seems to have done the trick with mine after fighting it for about 2 weeks or so. I don't know if this will work on yours but it is quite cheaper than a dealer working on it. Supposedly it is the contacts that corrode easily and need to be worked back in for good connection.
Thanks,
kimble989
What does that stand for and what is it?
Thanks,
kimble989
While driving the truck it will start to sputter, you will then lose your speedometer, then the truck slips itself into neutral. It is still running, but just slips into neutral. Then the overdrive light and ABS lights on the dash begin to flash at 100mph. You simply coast off the side of the road, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute or two and start it back up and you are good to go for another 2 days or so, sometimes less, before it happens again.
I've been told that a wiring harness can do this under the drivers seat if corroded, but both dealerships (very reputable ones) have found nothing. I paid $200 plus labor b/c they thought it might be the alternator overcharging, but happened again after I had the truck for only 3hrs. The only thing I can get from them is that all of the codes read high voltage.
Anyone have a clue? I cannot afford to be without a vehicle for a fifth trip into the dealer for another 1-2 wks.
Thanks,
kcram - Pickups Host
http://www.click2houston.com/news/4420584/detail.html
jkidd
http://www.cars.com/go/news/Story.jsp;jsessionid=RBKM2BHL30XI1LAZGQLU2VA?section=news&subj- ect=recent&story=042805storyaUT&referer=&aff=national