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any suggestions or mabe even know why it has a rough idle
The Ford dealer replaced the throttle body and solenoid and it's shifting perfectly, in fact so well I can hardly feel it, much better than it ever did brand new. So it looks like to me it was never quite right? It was a little over $800 to fix it!
a ford ranger 2000 model? Not the extended cab, just has two bucket seats.
It was broke when I bought it.
Thanks!
But thanks for the help Mikeb2k5.
I'm thinking their is an electrical short somewhere to the point where the wire is sending current, but then loses it and shuts down the truck.
Dustin
that my truck could catch fire. He said that there
is a cruise control sensor that is mounted to the
master cylinder that it causing the vehicles to
catch fire. He also said the vehicle does not have to be running, Just sitting in your driveway
it could catch fire. Does anyone have any info on this ?
P.S. The machanic also said that the government is
trying to get ford to recall the vehicles and fix the problem.
thanks, mary
I have a 93 Ford Ranger and have the same problem. It wants to idle at about 2500 RPM as soon as I disengage the clutch. The codes tell me that the temperature sensor is bad. My guess is that the computer is getting a signal from the temperature sensor telling it that the engine is cold and the computer therefor richens the mixture provided by the injectors thus making the engine idle fast. Now and then there are times when the engine idles fine but they are very intermittant. Tomorrow I replace the temperature sensor and will see if the fix is in. If not, I will continue the search.
hiburg
I have the exact same truck and it started acting up just like yours yesterday. I am going to change the speed sensor in it today and if it still acts up it will be going to the shop. If you find out what the problem is please post it.
Thanks,
rbook
Thanks,
C Senior
thanks maryjoh
Any ideas of how to fix this.
Next, im getting a bunch of work done, like brakes (just the front), new belts, filters, sparkplugs, just regular tune up stuff. How much should that run.
Then, the mechanic said the tranny has plugs that need to be replaced, (have read about the problem elsewhere) and he also said i should replace my clutch. It a 97 with like 125k. What should a price be on that.
Thanks
When driving my truck from time to time when stopped at an intersection I have the brakes all the way to the floor and the back tires spin and spin like in a bad cartoon....I have all I can do to hold it ....putting it in neutral has helped....when taking it to the dealer they say they took it for a spin and could not recreate this. It has happened 3 times and I am afraid to drive it .....I would be so happy if anyone out there can help me.
The truck is finally fixed. After 5 trips to 3 different dealerships. It was the PCM (power control module). The part is located in the engine right up against the firewall on the passenger side. Black box about 5" long or so and 2" or so wide.
It is the computer of the truck as far as I could understand it. Want the really good news....it is covered for 8yrs through ford whether you have an extended warranty or not. Sad news is I paid one dealership $420 for labor and an alternator that I didn't need. They though it was sending spikes through the system. Now I'm arguing with them about getting some of my money back.
But anyways, it is the PCM, covered under warranty. You will have to get a new key for your truck, which they provided me for free since they have the electronic chip built in them for theft purposes.
Hope this helps.
kimble989
218: loss of left side of IDM signal
222: loss of right side of IDM signal
223: loss of Duel Plug Inhibit control
224: Primary circuit failure in coil 1,2,3 or 4
My mechanic doesn't know what to do, because it won't "act up" for him
Any ideas will help. :sick: :sick: :sick:
I think you need a new shop. When the truck is setting these codes, there are procedures to check for each code. A decent mechanic should be able to track down exactly what is causing your problems. It doesn't need to 'act up' with a mechanic, it is setting error codes. These tell what is going wrong. If you are paying someone to mess with this truck several times, it might be time to take it to a Ford place, someone that should be seeing these errors and fixing them, every day.
Wiper problems many times are the 'multi-control' switch. In other words, there is one switch for the stalk with the turn signals, wipers, cruise, etc. And it wears out. Inside the steering column.
Dome light problems are also rampant with mid-90 models. The switch is inside the door, on the handle/lock mechanism. To really get to the switch, the door panel must be removed. Spray switch with electrical cleaner or replace it.
FOR THE PAHNTOM WIPER SWITCH THAT TURNS ITSELF ON BY ITSELF:
The following is based on observation of my 1999 Ranger, other years may be different. I fixed the phantom windshield wipers myself, you can too. It turns out all you need to do is clean the switch up.To clean the switch does NOT require removing the turn signal from the steering column and takes about ten minutes.1. On the turn signal lever, remove the end cap with a small screwdriver.2. Remove the phillips screw located under the end cap.3. WATCH IT! there is a spring to push back against the wiper rotating knob. Hold in the wiper switch so it won't go flying.4. WATCH IT! again. When removing the wiper rotating switch there are two detents that are pressed against the inside of the knob (with another small spring pushing against each other) to give detents to the different levels of wiper delay when you rotate the knob.5. Inside you will see the switch wiper mounted to a white plastic piece that you can just pull out. It looks kind of weird with 4 arms and an elbow wiper coming out of it.6. After you pull out the switch wiper just gently clean everything inside, a sort of circuit board looking goodie with rings for the switch wiper to rotate on.I used a rag and a small (jewelers) screwdriver to clean the board inside and very carefully made sure the gaps between the traces were clean. There is quite a bit of grease in there.I reassembled the switch using lubriplate (it was handy) and it was very easy to disassemble and to reassemble.I have had no re-occurrence of the phantom windshield wiper and I don't miss it a bit.
For the lights coming on and staying on and or the door ajar warning going on at the same time, the swithc is in the door below the door jamb. After taking the door panel off you can reach in and remove the switch or if you have small arms like me you can go in and spray eclectrical contac cleaner on the switch. Try this on the door latch firts to see if it will trickle down to the switch Some poeple don't recommend using wd40 as ti cn get gummy after ahwile and collect dirt. here is the item, posted along time ago to correct this ailment:
First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
Hope this info helps!
Any suggestions on the location of said relay or other solutions?
I changes the Speed Sensor on the rear like the guy earlier requested and it fixed my problem. If it starts acting up again I will change the PCM, but thanks for the follow up on the problem.
RBook
Chris
Thanks
And I think attempting to drive 80mph, and even more, is extremely dangerous on 35inch tires and 3inch lift. The tires and lift have changed a lot of the suspension alignments and make the truck handle worse than the stock setup.
Plus, any Ranger is speed limited by the computer to something in the range of 92mph.
My god, a truck is a brick on wheels. And you have one lifted and huge tires. Take it out in the mud if you wish, but don't drive this thing fast.
Thanks, Reid
There's a fuse panel just to the left side and I opened that and managed to pull the light switch out (still wired) and noticed that it seemed to have been attached to the back of the panel by screws into a couple of posts. Those posts have broken off of the back of the panel.
So, now I'm wondering how to fix this. I don't actually know much about cars. I'm thinking if I can get the panel off maybe I can glue those posts back on or jury rig something - but I don't even know how to get the panel off.
Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for fixing it (short of plunking down a couple of hundred bucks at the dealer)?
Thanks.
Course, driving in 3rd and 4th gear does the same thing.
Or, as the other poster said, reduce the size of the tires.