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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mikeb2k5mikeb2k5 Member Posts: 2
    I just joined this forum. I wish I had long ago. Shifting issues with flashing OD light are usually caused by the 2-3 solenoid located next to the catalytic converter on the outside of the transmission. Apparently the cat temperatures prematurely age the rubber causing it to fail. I wonder how many people have been hosed by dishonest tranny shops for expensive unnecessary rebuilds. Post any tranny problems and I'll do my best to get you an answer. My son in law is a Ford tranny mechanic and he has saved me tons of $$$$$$$.
  • rangerguyrangerguy Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 and it has a rough idle most of the time even worse when i come off the highway i want to clean the throttle body but dont know what kind of cleaner to use because it says on the throttle body not to clean
    any suggestions or mabe even know why it has a rough idle
  • pugs14pugs14 Member Posts: 2
  • pugs14pugs14 Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 Ranger develops a wet floorboard on both the drivers side and passenger side after a rain. This occurs even if the car is not driven. I check the seal on rear slider window and found no leak there. What do I check next?
  • garycoxgarycox Member Posts: 59
    Does Ford have any sort of recall on this problem? I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with 76,000 miles. Last week I had to have the transmission worked on, something about the throttle body replacement and solenoid which was causing it not to shift very well and the OD light finally came on. Actually since it was new I didn't think it was shifting very well but that was my first truck. Over the past year it has become worse until the OD light started flashing.

    The Ford dealer replaced the throttle body and solenoid and it's shifting perfectly, in fact so well I can hardly feel it, much better than it ever did brand new. So it looks like to me it was never quite right? It was a little over $800 to fix it!
  • jim54jim54 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can purchase a seat release handle for
    a ford ranger 2000 model? Not the extended cab, just has two bucket seats.
    It was broke when I bought it.

    Thanks!
  • kcroumlichkcroumlich Member Posts: 1
    '01 Ranger, 4.0L. I suspect a bad oil pressure sensor. Guage drops to 0 after a cold start, returns to normal after engine warms. Where is the sensor located? I bought a new one but can't figure out where it goes. Thanks.
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    Well the part was easily found and replaced, but didn't do any good. The truck is still acting up on nearly every drive. I took it back up to the dealership I bought it from and they are currently looking for the problem. I have been without my truck for almost a month now. I am loosing faith in Ford to repair their own products.
    But thanks for the help Mikeb2k5.
    I'm thinking their is an electrical short somewhere to the point where the wire is sending current, but then loses it and shuts down the truck.

    Dustin
  • rocky8rocky8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a "99" ford ranger super cab 4x4. I was told by a machanic that there is a possibility
    that my truck could catch fire. He said that there
    is a cruise control sensor that is mounted to the
    master cylinder that it causing the vehicles to
    catch fire. He also said the vehicle does not have to be running, Just sitting in your driveway
    it could catch fire. Does anyone have any info on this ?
    P.S. The machanic also said that the government is
    trying to get ford to recall the vehicles and fix the problem.
  • maryjohmaryjoh Member Posts: 3
    hi.i have a 95 ranger.2.3 i'm having problems with it not wanting to start after you turn it off.then after an hour or two or sometimes just a few minutes it will start again. did yours do thsi too?i'm trying to figure out what's wrong with mine.please help.

    thanks, mary
  • pattystacepattystace Member Posts: 2
    Hi All. I hope one of you gurus can give me a little counseling. The techs at the shop working on my Ranger have been uable to successfully bleed the slave cylinder (I was told they have been working on bleeding it for an hour). They have concluded that in order to bleed the slave they must first install a new master cylinder. Any advice? THANKS!
  • hiburghiburg Member Posts: 2
    Pjama,

    I have a 93 Ford Ranger and have the same problem. It wants to idle at about 2500 RPM as soon as I disengage the clutch. The codes tell me that the temperature sensor is bad. My guess is that the computer is getting a signal from the temperature sensor telling it that the engine is cold and the computer therefor richens the mixture provided by the injectors thus making the engine idle fast. Now and then there are times when the engine idles fine but they are very intermittant. Tomorrow I replace the temperature sensor and will see if the fix is in. If not, I will continue the search.
    hiburg
  • hiburghiburg Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 4.0 Ranger and had a [non-permissible content removed] of a time bleeding the unit. The air was in the master cylinder. It (master cyl) must be totally full and this is hard once it has been drained. It is one of the Ford's NOT BETTER IDEAS. It took me 4 hours to bleed this sucker once I replace the clutch master. There was nothing wrong with the slave. By the way I need a new clutch master again after about 10,000 miles - it won't hold pressure on the slave. This time I will go directly to Ford for the part - last time was a NAPA part.
  • rbookrbook Member Posts: 2
    Kimble,

    I have the exact same truck and it started acting up just like yours yesterday. I am going to change the speed sensor in it today and if it still acts up it will be going to the shop. If you find out what the problem is please post it.

    Thanks,
    rbook
  • cseniorcsenior Member Posts: 1
    The truck has 100 K and seems to be in good cond. What preventive maintence repairs should be thinking about doing? Ex. Timing belt ? ...Etc.

    Thanks,

    C Senior
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    rocky8 go read my opost #1173 it has a web site to read about the problem. It is more of a problem with the 150's and it seems to be a big problem in FL where a TV station picked up on this and has lit a fire under the govnt's [non-permissible content removed] to get investigating it. It hadb been going on for a year or so. It has not been officially determined if the 97 thru 2002 Rangers are affected by this but if you feel insecure and it you have cruise control you can just go and disconnect the switch. Look on your master brake cylinder and just in front of the brake fluid container is a electrical component. Just unplug it and plug it back when you go driving. Apparently the switch gets 12v even when the engine is off. I measued voltage across the connector with eveything off. and after letting it sit all night and still plugged in I felt that the switch was very warm to the touch. You might want to clean up any road grime or fluids that might be on the switch as well.
  • brew1brew1 Member Posts: 1
    How do you fix the odometer and speedometer? My 92 Ranger (144,534 miles)has been having a few problems. It has been sitting for about a year. Now that I have it on the road again, the speedometer just broke. I just changed the fuel filter because the truck was not getting any power. The old filter had all kinds of stuff falling out of it. It ran fine this morning, however I can't tell how fast I am going. With my driving record I can't afford any more tickets. :shades:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Member Posts: 3
    i have a question.i'm not sure your reply was for me or not but my 95 ranger 2.3 has a problem. after i drive it to anywhere and i turn it off and come back out most of the time it won't start.i wait for a few hours or even a few minutes and then it'll start right up.do you have any idea's what it could be?

    thanks maryjoh
  • kepm123kepm123 Member Posts: 4
    Ok, first my fuel gauge is broken. It always shows Empty. When im driving at night the lights behind the rest of the panel are on, but not behind the gas gauge.
    Any ideas of how to fix this.

    Next, im getting a bunch of work done, like brakes (just the front), new belts, filters, sparkplugs, just regular tune up stuff. How much should that run.

    Then, the mechanic said the tranny has plugs that need to be replaced, (have read about the problem elsewhere) and he also said i should replace my clutch. It a 97 with like 125k. What should a price be on that.

    Thanks
  • sellthefordselltheford Member Posts: 1
    Help!!!
    When driving my truck from time to time when stopped at an intersection I have the brakes all the way to the floor and the back tires spin and spin like in a bad cartoon....I have all I can do to hold it ....putting it in neutral has helped....when taking it to the dealer they say they took it for a spin and could not recreate this. It has happened 3 times and I am afraid to drive it .....I would be so happy if anyone out there can help me.
  • pattystacepattystace Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the shop won out and they replaced the master - they were insistant that was the problem even though there were no signs of leakage. I figure they are the experts. Here's the deal. They said "all fixed." I said "fabulous!" Picked-up my truck last night after hours and the clutch pedal now has about 4 inches of play at top end, feels sloppy, only fully engages when it's about 1" off the floor, and getting into first gear when you stop is difficult. They replaced: slave & master, installed a clutch kit (figured it was a good idea while they had it apart w/115K on the clutch). Now that can't be right, RIGHT? How were you finally able to get it bled properly? Desperate in Chicago for advice to get my wheels movin' again.
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    Rbook,

    The truck is finally fixed. After 5 trips to 3 different dealerships. It was the PCM (power control module). The part is located in the engine right up against the firewall on the passenger side. Black box about 5" long or so and 2" or so wide.

    It is the computer of the truck as far as I could understand it. Want the really good news....it is covered for 8yrs through ford whether you have an extended warranty or not. Sad news is I paid one dealership $420 for labor and an alternator that I didn't need. They though it was sending spikes through the system. Now I'm arguing with them about getting some of my money back.

    But anyways, it is the PCM, covered under warranty. You will have to get a new key for your truck, which they provided me for free since they have the electronic chip built in them for theft purposes.

    Hope this helps.
    kimble989
  • cheimercheimer Member Posts: 1
    What color is the Accessory WireIn the audio system on my 2005 Ford Ranger...I'm putting in a system and can't get any help...anyone here know?
  • seldersselders Member Posts: 5
    The first thing you have to do is pull the cluster out of the dash and determine whats broke. If it's the cable then you can buy a replacement and fix it easy. The only other thing it can really be is in the speedo itself. It's all geared out in there to run the odometer, speed, and trip at one time. To test the gauge itself, once it's pulled out get a piece of wire or a small driver bit of some kind and a drill you'll see where it hooks in on the back. Run the drill and you'll see the gauge needle run up, Make sure you have the drill running the right way, or you'll run the numbers backwards. If the needle moves,then its the cable that needs to be replaced. Also when your taking out the cluster the speedo cable is usually held in place with a clip on the back that all you need to do is push in and the cable will slide out
  • seldersselders Member Posts: 5
    My 93' ranger sucks. O.K. heres the thing. It's a 2.3L, 5 speed manual. It's seems like the truck is being starved for fuel and/or not firing correctly. It starts fine, idles fine, but when I start to move it has power surges. 1st gear you can't really notice it, 2nd gear it's still not too bad because you run through it too fast. 3rd gear it's really noticeable at around 25 to 30 mph (no tach) it's kind of choppy on acceleration at 35mph it's like everything finally gets the idea and you can feel a surge of power. 4th gear it runs, but stays in that choppy feeling , just a lot of little bucking and jerking going down the road.5th gear is almost unheard of right now because at anything under 65 it wants to bog down and I have to drop back into 4th to keep up any speed. I've only had the truck about a year, but I know the guy that I bought it from did all the maintance on it and treated it well. Since I've owned it I've put a fuel filter on it, replaced one coil pack, ignition module, and had it to the shop a few times to get the codes ran and erased. It tells me now that that I have these codes
    218: loss of left side of IDM signal
    222: loss of right side of IDM signal
    223: loss of Duel Plug Inhibit control
    224: Primary circuit failure in coil 1,2,3 or 4
    My mechanic doesn't know what to do, because it won't "act up" for him
    Any ideas will help. :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Member Posts: 3
    my wipers come on for no reason.my dome light will stay on after closing the door.eventually it will go off.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, it looks like these errors all relater to coil packs, ignition module, and their wiring. Is something disconnected? Bent pins in connectors? Something loose from the previous replacements?

    I think you need a new shop. When the truck is setting these codes, there are procedures to check for each code. A decent mechanic should be able to track down exactly what is causing your problems. It doesn't need to 'act up' with a mechanic, it is setting error codes. These tell what is going wrong. If you are paying someone to mess with this truck several times, it might be time to take it to a Ford place, someone that should be seeing these errors and fixing them, every day.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It would be very helpful if you would tell us the year, motor, and transmission of your truck.

    Wiper problems many times are the 'multi-control' switch. In other words, there is one switch for the stalk with the turn signals, wipers, cruise, etc. And it wears out. Inside the steering column.

    Dome light problems are also rampant with mid-90 models. The switch is inside the door, on the handle/lock mechanism. To really get to the switch, the door panel must be removed. Spray switch with electrical cleaner or replace it.
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    This has been an ongoing problem with Rangers for eons OK at least since the early or mid 90's. These were some fixes that were posted back then that I saved for such instances.

    FOR THE PAHNTOM WIPER SWITCH THAT TURNS ITSELF ON BY ITSELF:
    The following is based on observation of my 1999 Ranger, other years may be different. I fixed the phantom windshield wipers myself, you can too. It turns out all you need to do is clean the switch up.To clean the switch does NOT require removing the turn signal from the steering column and takes about ten minutes.1. On the turn signal lever, remove the end cap with a small screwdriver.2. Remove the phillips screw located under the end cap.3. WATCH IT! there is a spring to push back against the wiper rotating knob. Hold in the wiper switch so it won't go flying.4. WATCH IT! again. When removing the wiper rotating switch there are two detents that are pressed against the inside of the knob (with another small spring pushing against each other) to give detents to the different levels of wiper delay when you rotate the knob.5. Inside you will see the switch wiper mounted to a white plastic piece that you can just pull out. It looks kind of weird with 4 arms and an elbow wiper coming out of it.6. After you pull out the switch wiper just gently clean everything inside, a sort of circuit board looking goodie with rings for the switch wiper to rotate on.I used a rag and a small (jewelers) screwdriver to clean the board inside and very carefully made sure the gaps between the traces were clean. There is quite a bit of grease in there.I reassembled the switch using lubriplate (it was handy) and it was very easy to disassemble and to reassemble.I have had no re-occurrence of the phantom windshield wiper and I don't miss it a bit.

    For the lights coming on and staying on and or the door ajar warning going on at the same time, the swithc is in the door below the door jamb. After taking the door panel off you can reach in and remove the switch or if you have small arms like me you can go in and spray eclectrical contac cleaner on the switch. Try this on the door latch firts to see if it will trickle down to the switch Some poeple don't recommend using wd40 as ti cn get gummy after ahwile and collect dirt. here is the item, posted along time ago to correct this ailment:
    First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
    TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
    Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
    The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
    There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
    Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
    Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
    Hope this info helps!
  • justingjusting Member Posts: 1
    My Ranger has a problem with the passenger door causing the interior light to stay on even when it is closed. Any suggestions???
  • ranger99ranger99 Member Posts: 2
    I just found out that my 99 ranger can run on some sort of corn gas. Anyone know how I can find out where to purchase this type of gas??? The guy at the shop told me it is a lot cheaper than regular gas. Thanks??
  • ranger99ranger99 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my Ranger, I just sprayed some WD40 on it and haven't had a problem since.
  • seldersselders Member Posts: 5
    O.K. Well it turns out that with a little research and luck and I think I've got ti fixed. For one now both coils are new, plus a general tune-up. Plugs and wires. Seems to have made quite a bit of difference. Gonna run code scanner on it in the morning after I get to work and see what it says.
  • jshaw01jshaw01 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 90 Ranger with a 2.9L and 5 spd. It runs great but occaisionally it will not start due to the fuel pump not running. This has only happened in warm weather after the vehicle has been run and is completely warmed up. It has never cut out, or even had a rough idle, while running. I suspect a relay that is heat sensitive and is cooled adequately while running, by the fan, but I can't find such.
    Any suggestions on the location of said relay or other solutions?
  • rbookrbook Member Posts: 2
    Kimble,

    I changes the Speed Sensor on the rear like the guy earlier requested and it fixed my problem. If it starts acting up again I will change the PCM, but thanks for the follow up on the problem.

    RBook
  • bnballison2bnballison2 Member Posts: 2
    I fixed the interior light staying on thing. The door switch got a little sticky, some silicone spray fixed it. :D
  • bnballison2bnballison2 Member Posts: 2
    My son was stuck in Texas recently when his truck would only click. He took it to a guy who apparently cleaned up the starter solenoid contacts, and promised to order some kind of voltage module. Now it starts, but then only once until the starter has a chance to cool off for an hour. He says the voltage module is sending too high voltage to the starter/solenoid, causing burning. Is he blowing smoke? Did Ford really put an 8 volt starter in a 12 volt system. :surprise:
  • mrd2001mrd2001 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 89 2.3 ranger and a scanner is telling me to replace the cts But I can't find it. I looked at a newer truck and found it in the heater core line, but my motor is a different configuration. Help it wouldn't idle when cold.
  • csgeocsgeo Member Posts: 5
    I just got a 1997 ranger 3.0 and it has trouble starting below about 40F. I changed plugs and wires when I got it, as they were original. I cleaned the throttle body/intake and the idle control valve. It runs great otherwise vacuum is good with no flutter. I suspect it may be the idle valve, or is there a start circuit on the ignition like on a distributor ignition?

    Chris
  • drakebdrakeb Member Posts: 1
    I was driving along at about 55 when the truck started slowing down and stalled. Smoke was coming out of the engine compartment. I pushed the vehicle into the median. A lot of stuff was melted around the alternator. When I got it to the shop (and rented a car in the meantime) they found that the positive leadwire from the alternator had separated from its lug and was arcing. The arcing went on until my battery died and I stalled. The only unusual occurrence during his event was that the ABS light came on - that's all. The damage was 2 heater hoses, an alternator, one radiator hose, serpentine belt, two electrical harnesses, and a battery (would not recharge). The repair cost was slightly under $1,000.
  • dmb0743dmb0743 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger that the door ajar light and the bell will not turn off. Both doors are shut securely. The overhead light stays on part of the time, but not very often. I have tried to replace the contact switches on both doors, but it had no effect. Anyone who can help please do....the dinging is driving me nuts.
    Thanks
  • lunchboxlunchbox Member Posts: 2
    Hey ok i uh have a question. Ok i bought a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge, my first vehicle ever purchaseing, and this is my problem. Now im not to savy when it come to this kind of stuf so bear with me. The truck has a 3 inch lift on it and 35 inch tires. Its a 6 cylinder, and thats about all i actually know about the engine. I have no problems with it except when i hit about 75-80, then i just don't go any faster, and if i'm going up hill i loose power like its cool. Depending on the grade of the slope determines whether or not i have to shift to 3rd gear or not. Its a 5 speed but i might as well consider it 4 becasue unless im on a flat surface or going down hill, 5th gear is toatally out of the question. I asked a buddy why this is, he seemed to know what he's talking about and mentioned that the tires i have for the truck are too big... the truck not being made to have tires that big will naturally loose power. Is this true? i havent gone to a mechanic yet because i dont wanna spend money that might not need to be spent if i can ask people who im sure will know what they are talking about... It just seems a little strange to me that the truck will loose so much power because of the tire size. I can understand a little power, but seriously, on a flat surface i wont go no more than 80, and lets not talk about uphill. Can anyone out there help me... Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Your buddy is right. Big tires take more power to turn.

    And I think attempting to drive 80mph, and even more, is extremely dangerous on 35inch tires and 3inch lift. The tires and lift have changed a lot of the suspension alignments and make the truck handle worse than the stock setup.

    Plus, any Ranger is speed limited by the computer to something in the range of 92mph.

    My god, a truck is a brick on wheels. And you have one lifted and huge tires. Take it out in the mud if you wish, but don't drive this thing fast.
  • huntnreidhuntnreid Member Posts: 2
    I wonder if you could tell me how you resolved the problem with the 4.0 engine. I recently bought a rebuilt v6 4.0 engine from Ford. The problem is oil consumption. I put 4 quarts of oil in in just 3500 miles between my last oil change. I went back to Frod and they told me under Ford policy it is considered normal if an engine burns a quart of oil every 800 miles. I am trying to find out what their policy really is before I take the fight to them. Please let me know if you know where I can find any info on it or if you or any one else knows.

    Thanks, Reid
  • huntnreidhuntnreid Member Posts: 2
    Ford will always tell you it is nornal. When dealing with warranty work you really have to push them. I am going through the same thing with a rebuilt engine. I am using a quart of oil every 850 miles and they told me that too is normal.
  • lunchboxlunchbox Member Posts: 2
    Hey thanks Bolivar, i appreciate the input. Now my question is what can i do to make up for some of that lost power... not to drive fast or anything but so i can get up these slopes. As i said before im not to savy on the whole vehicle knowledge but is driving 50-55 in third gear safe? I mean for the truck and all. Thats usually what i have to do when i hit up hill roads.
  • andreww244andreww244 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger and the other day the knob on the headlight switch came off. The switch itself, behind the panel, fell away from the hole and so even with needle nose pliers it's hard to grab the post and turn the lights on and off.

    There's a fuse panel just to the left side and I opened that and managed to pull the light switch out (still wired) and noticed that it seemed to have been attached to the back of the panel by screws into a couple of posts. Those posts have broken off of the back of the panel.

    So, now I'm wondering how to fix this. I don't actually know much about cars. I'm thinking if I can get the panel off maybe I can glue those posts back on or jury rig something - but I don't even know how to get the panel off.

    Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for fixing it (short of plunking down a couple of hundred bucks at the dealer)?

    Thanks.
  • badnessbadness Member Posts: 242
    hey pal drop a tire size and you will get you power and you will be able to make it up your hills,even 33's will still look cool or even 32's will look cool,I would say 32's would be the best bet.,thoe everything has to do with the gearing thoe.
  • bosabosa Member Posts: 1
    my 1999 3.0 4x4 ranger has recently had a new pcm installed and now i am having a problem with my truck stalling out alot and being very hard to get resarted. It seemed like a fuel problem so i changed the fuel filter and it seemed to work but was short lived. now i beleive it has something to do with my new pcm and the chips in my keys. 1 of the times it was acting funny my anti theft light came on and was flashing very fast and then started giving me a code of 1 6 then went away. the next time i stalled i did not get this same light on. has any1 ever experienced this problem b4 or have a repair manual that lists this code in it? also when i am stalled and trying to restart my engine seems very jerky and will shake the whole truck pretty bad but under normal starts is very smooth. thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Put 4.11 rearend gears in it.

    Course, driving in 3rd and 4th gear does the same thing.

    Or, as the other poster said, reduce the size of the tires.
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