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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I have a 94 Ranger with 4L automatic. It does NOT have a vacumn cut-off valve in the heater lines.

    But, a few years ago, in an effort to maximize my summer A/C output (thinking I would close it in the summer and open it in the fall), I cut one of the heater lines and installed a manual cutoff valve.

    With this valve closed, stopping the flow through the heater core, the temp gauge started doing very strange things. Previously, the gauge would start out 'cold' and slowly move up to about 1/4 or 1/3 gauge (about the O in NORMAL). With the new valve in place, and closed, when started cold the gauge would move up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to the almost far left. It would cycle like this a few times. If it was cooler outside temp, and driven slowly, it would continue to cycle. If you took it and ran at highway speed (55+), the gauge would go to the normal 1/4 gauage and stabilize.

    This freaked me out so much I opened up the valve. The temp gauge then stopped this nonsense and returned to operation as before.

    Based on this, if someone has a cycling temp gauge on a Ranger 4L, I would first guess you might have a plugged heater core, which would be the same as when I placed the valve in the line and closed it.

    Ford's design of the cooling system for this motor appears to require circulation throught the heater core to maintain a stable warm-up. Exactly what is happening, I don't know.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Inside the fuel tank. You have to drop the tank (or remove the bed) to get to the top of the tank.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    One other thing.

    4L of this age also have the lower intake bolts loosen up. This usually causes pinging (air coming around the gasket and leaning out the fuel mixture) and/or oil usage. I've never heard of water leaking into pistons, but it might happen.

    Tighten the lower intake bolts up. This is almost a 'normal' maintenance item on this motor of this age (mid 90's). It takes like a 8mm or 9mm 1/4 socket and extension and flex drive. You can get to all of them. There is a certain 'sequence' but I just moved around and side to side on mine.

    Mine went from using almost no oil in 4,000 miles to suddenly setting the 'check oil' light, and being 1 1/2 quarts low. Tightening these bolts stopped the oil usage.
  • mannixmannix Member Posts: 1
    Yeah, you definitely have a heater core problem. The film on the windshield is a prime indicator. Also, if you notice s 'sweet' scent inside the vehicle, you have antifreeze inside the vehicle.
  • 01goldranger01goldranger Member Posts: 5
    Greenchief,
    Open the hood, directly over the headlights are two 7/32" screws. Remove and then lift the small plastic piece. You will see two levers, one on each side of the headlight. The outboard faces fwd, inboard faces rearward. Pull up on these as far as they will go. They will be stiff, they WILL NOT come all the way out. This will release the headlight unit. Wiggle it free (as far as the wires on the headlight and parking/turn signals will permit. This will provide access to the side marker light bulb. BE CAREFUL putting it back, you can break the aiming screws.
    While you are there. You will see a brown and a black wire going to the side marker bulb. If you cut the black wire, and splice the bulb end of the wire to a tap off the green with white stripe wire going to the parking/turn signal bulb, it will cause the side marker light to blink with the trun signal when the lights are OFF, and blink opposite the turn signal when the lights are ON.

    NO GUARANTEES TO THIS PROCEEDURE. PROCEEDE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

    01goldranger
  • twoosleytwoosley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with a 3.0, and I am having a similar problem. I come to a stop and the speedo goes to 0. When I take off it clunks and the transmission is not shifting correctly. Eventually the speedo starts working again. The OD light flashes from OD on to OD off. I have no idea what is wrong with it. Have you found out what sensor it is?
  • bulldog3732bulldog3732 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Ranger 3.0L/6-cyl shortbed, manual tranny, w/155K miles. Several little things are starting to go on it after 10 yrs of ownership just as I'm getting ready to sell, and I need some help on fixing these.

    First, the shifter knob just popped off one day, and I can't find anywhere how to reattach it. Any ideas?

    Second, when I pulled up on the tailgate latch about a week ago there was a "pop". I figure the cable snapped inside the tailgate, but how can I get it down to attempt repairs? Also, I can't find anywhere how to go about repairing this minor problem.

    Third, I hear squealing from the front tires and there's black soot on the rims. I just lubbed all the points, and it's continuing so I figure the bearings need repacking and I'll need to inspect the spindle. Does this sound like a good diagnosis? What can I use as cleaner for the bearings? How will I know if they need to be replaced versus repacking? What should I look for on the spindle to decide whether or not to replace it, too? Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mxz440mxz440 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 ford ranger xlt 3.0L v6 4x4 and it has the push button 4x4 and low range and the 4x4 works but my low wont so is there a fuse or what
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    If it is a threaded the threads are worn or if its a press on it may be worn enough not to stay on. Try to epoxy the knob onto the shaft. Use a good two part epoxy you can buy at Pep boys or some hardware store. On the tail gate you should be able to remove the panel on the inside of the gate to give you access to the inside for the latch and the cable. And if you carefully on either end at the swivel hinge you will not that one end does not nave a complete end cap but a partial to allow you to swing the gate down and then lift up to un hook it and then swing it away and off. Look for it ral carefull and you eill see it.
    As for the black soot on the rims that could just be brake dust from the disc brakes and not the front bearings. The squealing is probably because you have so much dust built up that its causing the pads to rub on the rotor and squeal. Try blow out the dust and then use some wheel cleaner or Simple Green Cleaner to clean the rims. Hope these suggetions will work for you
  • jhockeyrefjhockeyref Member Posts: 3
    My Ranger has 158K on it. I see no visible transmission fluid leaks and had it to a transmission shop which saw no leaks either. Where could my fluid be going? Have to add every month or sooner.
  • tonyetonye Member Posts: 10
    Interesting, I've a 99 Ranger X cab and have the same problem with the dome light and door ajar alert most often when it's over 85. How much did the door switch cost and how difficult to replace?

    Thanks,
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Check the trans lines to the radiator. That was the source of my mystery leak on my 96 Ram.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    And, check the vacuum modulator valve. This is a valve, on the outside of the transmission, with a vacuum hose (metal) going to it. It aids in the downshifts. It's tough to see. It is on the right side of the transmission, above the exhaust/cat converter. One bolt holds it on.

    If the diaphram in this valve ruptures, transmission fluid is pulled through the vacuum line and 'burned' in the motor. If a lot is being burned, you should see white smoke out the exhaust.

    I would think an inspection by a 'transmission shop' should find this. Unless they wanted to do a total rebuild, when all you need is a valve......
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    It turns over fine but won't start. Crazy thing is you can wait 5 minutes and then it will fire up just fine. Runs good once it is started. There's no rhyme or reason to it. Any suggestions?
  • jhockeyrefjhockeyref Member Posts: 3
    If tranny fluid is in fact being sucked in and burned, would this possibly cause the pinging I am getting? Don't get it all the time. Sometimes when I am at a steady speed, slow down due to traffic and then speed back up, I get the ping and sometimes I get it at a steady speed but it is very light.
  • jerrayjerray Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Ranger had just over 273,000 miles on the 2.3 and lost its first timing belt. I found a 96 mazda engine 2.3 with 30,000 for $250 at a salvage yard. I swapped the engine and now the speedometer doesn't work. The wiring harness was diff on the mazda for the transmission, I guessing the mazda was an automatic, no piliot bearing. The mazda had a larger plug and the ford has a small plug to transmission. The mazda had the pig tail for the automatic transmission so I made a short jumper by matching the wire colors and converting to the smaller plug. The new engine does run but rough. I have not ran the codes on the computer yet and the check engine light is on, any comments on this engine swap and plugs. thanks
  • ponecarmanponecarman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 V-6 and Automatic Trans. When you turn the key on the fuel pump runs and a second or two later if it cuts back off the truck will start and rum. However, now when you turn the key on the pump runs and a second or two, later you hear a relay click under the hood but the pump keeps running. Now the truck will turn over but will not start. I have checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it is within specks 40 PSI. I also checked to see if I had fire to the plugs with a timing light and there is fire to the plugs. Has any one else had this problem?? I am baffeled. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :cry:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Hey I've got a problem with starting too!! Once it starts there is a howling sound underneath the hood!! I don't know when it's not going to start!! Just no explanation that I can see?? See above post. :confuse:
  • superheadcasesuperheadcase Member Posts: 2
    can any one help I have a 1995 ford ranger that i have had repeated problems with the relays for the wipers and horn I replace the relays the turn signal switch but I keep get just the high speed on my wipers and no horn the horn & wipers work wright for a while and then I loose the horn and the slower speeds on the wipers
  • warpupwarpup Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my 94 ranger 5 speed.

    It's not the battery and the connections and cables are all good. I ran through the diagnostic path given in the Harris book, and it comes up 'replace starter relay' (the one mounted to the fender near the fusebox).

    So I did, and it started fine for about 5 starts. Then the same symptoms.

    So I figure I got a bad relay, poor quality or whatever and replaced it again.

    It started twice with the new relay, then nothing. (Clicks the solinoid, but doesn't turn the starter.)

    Ideas? Help!
  • grnrangergrnranger Member Posts: 3
    HAVE SAME THING!
    Have also tried all the same ignition changes you list as well as a change of a component called the ignition control module.
    Ranger always starts when cold. mechanics have kno clu.
    Recently I stubbornly sat with the car and watched the Temp Gauge go down, trying every several minutes to get a start. Ranger did not start until the needle was at bottom of gauge's range. Next time this happened I again stayed with vehicle performing the same test by trying to start every few minutes and again, once fully cool it started with no problem.
    Because I can get a start as soon as the Temp Gauge is down I don't think it can be the fuel pump. We would get no start situations at all temperatures if that was the case.
    I think the problem is as you suggest, a heat sensitive relay. I just dug into a borrowed manual and there is a sensor called the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ETC) mounted up by the engine's thermostat. This unit is connected to car's ignition control module. I'm going after this puppy as my next candidate as the trouble maker. It could be corrosion or gunk on the sensor's interior surface. heat/wear damage to the connecting wires, or just a worn out internal mechanism. (My Ranger does have 164,000 on it).
    My guess is that this unit is occasionally "sticking" in the cold position and sending information to the ignition control module that the engine is cold. Usually a cold engine gets a richer mixture of fuel until it warms up. It may be that the fuel mixture is "flooding" the cylinders when injected and/or the timing is off for the heat range and volitility of the mixture....I only conjecture this as one of the first times i ran into this problem, while waiting to be rescued, I took off the ducting from the filter box to the front of the throttle body and held it open w/ a screw driver while I attempted a start. Engine roared into life at Very high revs. Since I felt I could not get to the Screwdriver before I incurred some damage, I shut down. Of course it would not restart until cold.
    There may be some other heat sensitive unit that could also be giving feedback to the computer that, in combination with the info this sensor is giving, results in a no start situation; especially as my occurrances have also been primarily in warmer weather.
    will advise my results of changing this part.
  • mortomozoidmortomozoid Member Posts: 6
    i have a '95 ranger and had the same problem with the dome light and the chime and the solution i got from a website called the ranger station was to spray wd-40 in the door latch and the keyhole to clean the contacts on the single wire electrical system, it worked right away and i had to do it again about 2 years later. i used quite a bit of spray using the little plastic straw to get at the innards of the latch.
  • tonyetonye Member Posts: 10
    thanks..i'll give it a try as the only other solution I've seen is to replace the door switch all together which is a bit more work then this one.
  • cdalesteve600cdalesteve600 Member Posts: 2
    I recently noticed that the engine on my 2003 Ranger 3.0 V6 will not rev past 3000 while in park or neutral. The truck runs fine otherwise. The engine will run above 5000 when flooring it through the gears. I noticed this after "washing" under the hood, but the problem may have been there and I just didn't notice. The truck has 20000 miles. At 3000 the engine seems to lope and miss. Help!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, since you haven't told what engine you have, here are two guess for two different engines.

    3L - Most of them ping all the time, even when relatively new, for all their life. Ford doesn't seem to want to re-engineer them to stop this. Only thing that will help is to pull some 'plug' (SPURT ? plug), which basically will retard the timeing and reduce power, which a 3L doesn't have much to spare. Or, use higher octane gasoline. There are some TSB which say to replace the coil packs. Sometimes this helps, other people that have done it say it doesn't help.

    4L - See my message about 10 or so messages back. If a 4L pings, tighten the lower intake manifold bolts.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yep, there are two engine temp sensors. One drives the temp gauge.

    The other gives info to the computer. The one that feeds the computer will have 2 wires, one of them will be yellow with a black strip and will be twisted together (I think).

    If the 'computer info' one fails, the problem usually is that it is difficult to start (and if/when it starts, it will run rough) when COLD. Basically, the computer thinks it is trying to start a HOT engine, and it will not increase the fuel delivery time needed for a cold start. After the engine warms up, it runs and restarts ok.

    Since you peoples problems were HOT start problems, I didn't want to throw this sensor problem into the discussion, since all the problems I've heard of have been cold start problem. But maybe the sensor will fail in the other direction, and this then causes HOT start problems...

    Might be worth replacing this sensor. I'm assuming you aren't getting any 'check engine light' being set. If so, PULL THE CODES first before throwing parts at the problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    And, burning tranny fluid in a motor might cause lots of things, including pings. The vacuum leak from a busted modulator valve might lean it out enough to ping. Throw in some Dexron, and who know what you get.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Well that's four starts in a row (knock on wood)!! I've been reving up the engine before I turn it off lately! Hoping that will keep the string going!! Superstitious I guess! Don't know how long it will last!! Just like a riverboat gambler! :confuse:
  • jhockeyrefjhockeyref Member Posts: 3
    Sorry - my mistake. I have the 3.0 6cy in my Ranger. I currently use the 89 octane gas which I have done since I bought the truck. Have heard ping before but not like this, Just started within the past 6 months. Can it be the tranny fluid being sucked in? Just for info - called the Ford dealer yesterday to see how much the valve part was ($40) and the parts guy stated he didn't think this would be the cause as he has never heard of one of those valves going bad. One other parts guy told me there was no vacuum assist on the tranny.
  • reckedracingreckedracing Member Posts: 2
    you said you found the problem???

    what was it? you mentioned timing belt, but what specifically regarding the timing belt?
  • reckedracingreckedracing Member Posts: 2
    I have an 89 Ranger 2.3 distributor-less. No spark on either side, its driving me crazy...
  • xtremeranger98xtremeranger98 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 ranger with the 4.0. Lately it's been giving me a problem first thing in the morning, it acts as if it's either starving for gas or spark when i put it in drive or reverse. When in neutral it idles perfectly. Also, i can be driving down the road and when i press the gas just enough to pass a car or speed up it will jerk as if it is missing or not getting enough gas. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestion as to wear to start. I've changed the fuel filter recently. I've done a completely tuneup (plugs, wires, and coil pack). I've been told it can be numerous things like the 02 sensor, temp sensor, and a few other sensors but nothing seems to add up. If any one can give me a little direction, that would be greatful.
  • ponecarmanponecarman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 ranger with a 3.0. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all. Today it finally started but seems to be running on open loop in the ECM. Idles fairly well but very little response and power. When I went to check the codes it will not do any thing. One other thing, the fuel pump runs continuously but the fuel pressure is correct. The fuel pressure regulator is working properly also. It is as if the ECM is running on the Prom Chip only and none of the other devices make any difference. While running I have disconnected the Mass Flow air valve, Throttle position sensor, and Idle air Control valve. None of them make any difference whether plugged up or not. Can you take the ECM somewhere and have it checked to see if it is operational, I hate to spend $150 to $200 on a replacement only to find out it was not :confuse: the problem.
  • ducatiducati Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem as you with a little more drama. I had some friends help me change out the spark plugs/wires. In order to get to the plugs located on the right side of the engine we had to remove the manifold. We put everything back together and everything worked - for two days. Then the idling started going haywire. The engine would rev way too high when the clutch was pushed in and then at a stop the engine would sputter then die. I've gone to a mechanic twice and the following work has been done: first visit they replaced two gaskets..the egr valve gasket and the upper intake gasket. Well the truck no longer stalled out when stopped but the problem of the engine revving up when in neutral remained. Second visit the mechanic replaced the idle speed motor. Again it ran good..for a while then the high revving returned. :cry: Pjama - did re programming the computer at the dealership solve the revving up problem? If you can respond I'd appreciate it.
  • gothdollgothdoll Member Posts: 2
    Can you describe the shifting problem you were experiencing? I may have the issue. When you say Solenoid..are you meaning the Solenoid that makes a click-click when there's not enough current getting to it?
  • gothdollgothdoll Member Posts: 2
    I'm a woman taking my beloved '97 Ford Ranger (automatic) to the mechanic. Please advise me in what to ask for and a few things I should know so I don't get screwed.
    My transmission is slipping. What should I check first before resorting to the mechanic? Tranny fluid levels are normal BUT my fluid has not been replace for about 5 years.

    Elaine
  • cyberjoe58cyberjoe58 Member Posts: 1
    your truck has an over rev limiting switch built into the computer to keep people from doing what you are trying to do. Why would you want to do this to the engine anyway. there is no reason to over rev an engine unless you are racing but not with this truck. Hope this helps.
    cyberjoe58
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Occasionally my ranger doesn't start!!! There is no rhyme or reason to it. You can mess with it for a while and it just doesn't do anything!! Then all of the sudden it will just fire up! When it does fire up it makes this howling or humming sound. A guy told me that it was the fuel pump making this sound. Anybody know what could be the problem??? :confuse:
  • shadetreemanshadetreeman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 with the same engine and problem .I have used some additives to the gas have cleaned the trottle plate with carb cleaner but after a while the promlem comes back .Did you ever find the answer

    Mark
  • chris240chris240 Member Posts: 1
    I am working on an 89 ranger 2.3L and i have already changed the rear main, and OP gasket and i am about to do the head gasket but i wanted to know if anyone knew if there is any problems i am going to run into in the process of doing the timing ?
  • suzi2suzi2 Member Posts: 1
    This is my first time in a chat room so I hope this goes where it is supposed to. I have a 1994 5 speed Ford Ranger xlt. After having a cd player installed a few years back the water temp guage started reading HOT but the engine was cool. I had it looked at but none could find anything wrong with it. It only does it occasionally now and I stopped worrying about it until today when my truck actually did overheat (some white smoke came out of the drivers side of the hood) and my guage read normal. The smoke smelled like burning tires but also somewhat electrical. When I popped the hood the smell seemed to be coming from the fuse box. I could smell this burning tire smell soon after starting my car up and driving a few blocks, it stopped after I drove for awhile so I assumed it was an outside truck but when I had the car stopped (on a hill with clutch engaged) it started smoking. I turned it off and switched over to the radio instead of the cd (I am paranoid about the cd player since my temp guage started acting up right after it was installed). When I started it up 5 minutes later it wasn't smoking any longer but I turned on the heat full blast (I heard that this will get the heat out of your engine) and drove home. After it cooled down I started it up and ran it for awhile but did not see more smoke. I bought this truck new and it has been a great little truck. So far I have just had to replace the brakes and the serpentine belt otherwise everything is original on it. The clutch has been acting up a bit when I first start the truck otherwise it seems to be running good other than the smoke. Is it time to replace something in my truck. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. I love my truck and don't want it to blow up. Thanks!
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Use epoxy for the shifter knob. I used it and my knob has not come off for 3 years and is still strong.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Check all the related wiring. There is a loose connection or contact somewhere. Look for oxidation on any copper contacts or connectors.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    I have a 97 Ranger with a 2.3L and 100,000 miles on it. I did a minor tune-up including plugs, wires, coil packs and PCV. I used Bosch Platinum plugs and wires the first go around. After this job there was a slight miss on idle. Something that was not there before. So I replaced the wires with Belden and the plugs with Bosch Platinum 4. The idle problem remained and then while driving about a week later, the truck lost almost all power and there was a popping noise from the cat area of the exhaust. It instantaneously regained power about 3 minutes later. All was fine until the next day. This time the loss of power remained. Luckily there was a NAPA parts store in my vicinity. I pulled in and and when I looked at my cat, it was bright orange. Too much unburned fuel. The guys told me the Bosch plugs were garbage and suggested I replace them with Autolite to see if that fixed it. It seemed to work for a week. Loss of power came back. Not as bad though. Are the O2 sensors bad. Is my cat ruined? What do I do next? Please help :confuse:
  • mortomozoidmortomozoid Member Posts: 6
    I had a problem with my ranger not starting and it turned out to be a little wire down on the starter or solenoid or whatever that thing is but it gets dirty and corroded and the solution was to wiggle it around and spray it with WD-40 which on my 4-banger can be done from the top with a little bit of stretching and concentration.
  • jegrsadajegrsada Member Posts: 1
    When driving in high 80's or 90 degree weather, motor starts bogging down and loses power. There is a strong burning smell of electric motor overheating. This also happened when driving my 90 Ford Ranger. I have since had to replace the motor and replaced it with a 92 2.3L motor. HELP!!!!!!
  • rangergirl05rangergirl05 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ranger XLT with 91,000 miles on it. The truck shakes and is loud from 50-70miles per hour then gets quiet again. I've been looking at the forums and I can gather that it is probably in need of tie rod replacement. Any help out there?
  • ringa1ringa1 Member Posts: 4
    have you gotten any help with your no start problem?
    i have 93 2.3 have the same problem.... seems to be worse in warmer weather.
    if have gotten any info wouild really like to know about it.
    thank you,
    ringa1
  • grnrangergrnranger Member Posts: 3
    thanks
    will follow your advice to pull codes and test unit voltage output across temperature range. will post results after tests.
    had a similar problem years ago with a toyota celica; temp sensor that mechanically regulated vacume advance system "cruded up" and stuck in cold position. you could start but once warmed up car ran VERY badly. then it was easy to test. take unit out and put in pan of hot water. if you couldn't blow air through the Hot bypass inlets when warmed but could still pass air through the cold, you knew you had a defective unit.....
  • bobjazbobjaz Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem on my 93 ranger....its your battery cables to your starter...changed mine and whoop there it is...
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