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to save future labor cost non of these have been replaced until now. I did this before I started testing figured I would get lucky no luck. have spark ,fuel pressure and timing marks ok and all electrical checks out.I started on vacuum lines and found cracked male plastic fitting going to canister purge valve this line is routed from throttle body goes threw a switch called thermistor to purge valve then to cannister.these two switches have vacuum and electric. It will start at first then die I figure this from lost of vacuum not sure looks like a little JB weld will solve my problem or should I just buy the two switches? Can someone please explain what these switches do and have they caused further damage that I should look for? I have not done anything futher. This crack has been on going you can tell by looking it just gave way and stoped the engine. I thank you in advance for any help
for relay or fuses under hood good luck.
HOWEVER....
Because of the expense, (and the effort in doing it, if you are doing it yourself) of taking down the trans. to replace the slave, it is a good idea to do the clutch as well.
In other words, you could do the slave, and get it all put back together, and have the clutch go out in a week.
So, think about it. If the clutch is new, or nearly new, then you are probably okay just doing the slave.
Otherwise, you are doing the same job twice, if the clutch goes out.
A few days ago while going down the interstate it died. Timing belt snapped. So I replaced the belt and tensioner for that belt. I discovered at the time all the plugs and wires were bad, so I replaced six of them while doing the belt. I reassembled the motor till there was enough there to test it, by this I mean I reassembled everything on the serpentine belt and started it. It started great, ran good, but a little extra noise do to not haveing a fan, radiator or coolant. I tried it a second time, and again, it was great.
So at this time I replaced my final two plugs and wires (the aweful ones to do under the intake), replaced the fan and radiator and filled it with fluid. I got in again and it just turned over and over without firing. I checked the plugs and they smelled of gas. And I checked one for ignition, and it seemed to be fine. So my dad came over and got it started by flooring the gas pedal, it ran really rought for about a minute them smoothed out a little. But it could barely keep itself running, and when I ran the RPM up it almost sounded like it was starving for air and dragged terribly. We also noted that it had almost a diesel ping in the drivers side bank when it started, and had minor pinging while idling. But at this point is undrivable do to lack of power. I know that the cam and crank timing marks were on, and the oil pump was off a little from its mark, but it started twice just fine. Pretty quickly here I'm going to rent a computer to check for codes or just take it to a mechanic.
Can somebody help me, anybody have an inkling of what's wrong?
(not to mention that I broke the emergency brake by cranking on the crank really heard)
There is a sticker showing belt routing usually on the front near the radiator, unless it's missing. That sticker shows the location of the tensioner pulley too.
Has anyone removed the bed from an 89 ranger 2wd? My fuel gauge is kaput and I'd like to see if the float is sunk or just stuck, and I believe that moving the bed is the easiest idea. I'd like to know if there is a wiring connector for the lighting on the bed or do I have to pull all of the bulb sockets out of the bed before removing it from the frame.
Also, has anyone changed the AC over from R12 to R134, and if so how does it work?
Thanks,
John
It is located on the lower part of the throttle body.
It has a plug on top and on the bottom.
Does this truck have a distributor?
If NOT, it might be the Crankshaft timing sensor.
It's located down behind the crankshaft pulley.
It's a bit of a job to replace, but can be done
Its the radiator, get a new one.
I have one bolt that i can't get to. According to the haynes guide i need
to remove the "air conditioning compressor and power steering pump bracket"
but it doesn't say how to do this. Do i have to remove the belt tensioner to do
this? I only really see one bolt holding this bracket on and when i removed
that it did nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
Only one of these are obvious the other 2 are recessed behind the
belt tensioner and you have to feel around with your fingers to find these.
There are also 2 on the bottom that are double nutted. The first nut holds
up wires after these are removed the second nut unscrews the bolt from the
engine.
I have a '98 Ranger V6 3.0L. Recently I discovered that the brake lights aren't working. The taillights, the reverse lights, and the turn signals all work fine, but when I press on the brake the lights won't light up. A friend who is a Dodge truck mechanic told me it was probably the brake relay switch, and said if I got the part he'd fix it. My problems are these: first, is "brake relay switch" the correct term for this part? I've looked all over online and can't find anything matching the name. Second: what is the cost for this part? I'm not made of money and I need to know in advance if it's expensive so I can set aside some cash.
Any help is much appreciated.
'Well cared for'? What actually failed? Rod bearings? Main bearing? Did the low oil pressure light and/or gauge come on/read zero? What motor?
Go to the NHTSB government site and check for recalls. I've never heard of one.
Here is the scenario: 97 Ranger XLT, Big 6-cyl. . Neither headlight comes on when you turn on the headlight switch. All related fuses check OK in side panel and under the hood. No problems with any other lights. Can "flash" high beams OK by pulling back on turn signal stick, but cannot "lock" high beams by pushing turn signal stick forward. Prior to this problem with the headlights, on rare occasions the windshield wipers would randomly turn themselves on "high" for no reason, but could be turned off by turning the wiper switch forward (on) and then back to the off position. Possibly related to a common switch in the turn signal stick? If so, are there any know service bulletins or defects regarding this so that I might get if covered by Ford?
Thanks for any help !
Any advice on removing the shift motor would be helpful.
thanks,
When the key is turned, the pump does not prime. no noise, nothing, nada. What else needs to be checked?
Not a mechanic at all either. I am lost right now.
Repair shop said they think it was the cam postition sensor or something along those lines that failed. Cost me over $3k. Try American Engine Installations. They are a national chain. The dealership wanted over $4k as well but it was 500 for the engine and 1500 for labor and AEI. The rest I went ahead and got new hoses, belt, water pump, sensor, tax and so on since it was being worked on. They were not only over $1k cheaper but gave a 50K warranty over the crappy 36K Ford one. Really stand behind their work at Ford huh!
Oh, let's see what else has gone wrong. Well at 58,000 the spider gears in the differential went our costing $1100. The tranny went out 3 months ago at 72,000 costing over $2500.
I take VERY good care of my behicles and I will NEVER buy a Ford again. I'm solid Toyota now. While US auto makers are heading out of the country, foreign ones are building plants here.
Hope you get it worked out.
This seems to be a common problem with older Rangers,
Anyone else please help?
John
An update to _my_ version of this problem... Could not get it to start again tonight, fortunately at home this time. Swapping the fuel pump relay with the AC relay as suggested by someone had no effect. It DID start after I put it into reverse and let the truck "rock" a bit as I tried starting.
Then after one or two tries, it started right up... Help, I'm as lost as the guy with the 91.
Also, for reference, my clutch is starting to go, and is hard to shift into 1st or reverse, don't know if this is part of the problem or not,
Ideas?