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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • todd12todd12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 ford ranger. Today, when I left work I noticed the abs light was on. Then when I accelerated after leaving a stop sign i noticed that the truck didn't want to shift into second gear (it's an automatic). It finally did shift after I let off the accelerator for a moment. Then I noticed when slowing down for another stop light that my speedometer would suddenly drop to 0mph when it got about to the 35mph mark. It does the same thing when accelerating also. The transmission also started shifting hard into second gear.

    Has anyone ever heard of anything like this. I haven't. Guess I'll be taking it to the dealership on this one.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Usual problem. The ABS sensor in the rear differential is bad. One bolt holds it in.
  • reverend12reverend12 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1998 with 115K on it with the 2.3, 5 speed. It gets about 25 mpg around town. I also have a 2005 Edge with the 3.0, 5 Speed ext cab edge. It gets about 19 in town and 23 on the highway. These things are pretty easy on gasoline for trucks.

    REV
  • fm544fm544 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, just bought a '98 Supercab, 2 wheel drive, 3.0 automatic, 14" tires.The door sticker is missing that tells me things like tire size and pressure, towing info, weight, and whatever else is on there. The DMV insists on having the exact GVW from the sticker that I don't have. Does anyone have a similar model that they could tell me what info is on there? I called Ford and they tell me they cannot replace the sticker. Thanks for helping if you can. Frank
  • prosparkyprosparky Member Posts: 2
    92 Ranger that is absolutely DEAD when the ignition key is turned....here's the short and sweet version for diagnosis....The truck wouldn't start, made a clicking noise, then started on the second try. Then, upon the next starting attempt, absolutely nothing happened. Tried a jump-start, still nothing, but the cables got hot.

    Replaced the starter, fired up no problemo even without a jump. Then, stalled out in a left hand turn lane at an intersection (fun, woohoo!) and acted totally dead (no click, no nothing on turning key).

    Got it home, tried to jump it again and started melting the jumper cables even when I wasn't turning the key to start it. Obvious short somewhere, but where to start looking?

    Any likely culprits here?

    PS, the old starter tested fine when I bought the new one...figured it was stuck and got "unstuck" when I removed it.

    Also, the headlights don't work, nothing electrical works at all.

    Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This has to be somewhere in the starter circuit...you can't melt jumper cables unless you have a tremendous draw on the battery...hundreds of amps...this isn't a little wire we are melting, this is a heavy strand.

    Sooooo....if I were you I'd trace the cables all the way down and see what's up. Does your truck run an external starter solenoid? check that too if it does. Sounds like your positive cable is grounding somewhere.
  • prosparkyprosparky Member Posts: 2
    Yes, the problem was in the starter circuit. When I installed the new starter, I installed a new cable from the battery to the starter (in case there was a problem with the old one).

    I traced it with my hand to see if it was rubbing somewhere, and it was. On the exhaust manifold heat shield. That explains why it started no problem and then died later, it took time to melt through the insulation.

    That's what I get for being sloppy and not tie-wrapping it away from the exhaust manifold. :mad:

    Thanks for you help and suggestion....Much appreciated!
  • satownbeastsatownbeast Member Posts: 1
    My Ranger, 2.5l, has the check engine light coming on and going off on an intermittent basis. I pulled the codes and came up with P1504 and P1403, Intake Air Control Cirtcuit Malfunction and Differential Pressure Feedback respectively.

    I had a situation where the truck would not idle, but this has recently cleared up and it is idling fine now. I believe that may have been code P1504. What is the code P1403 and what sensors are involved?

    Any ideas will be appreciated.
  • ranger01ranger01 Member Posts: 3
    I changed the speed sensor with a ford replacement part on rear end and it worked for a day and a half then quit again! Any ideas? :cry:
  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    1991 Ranger, 2.3, 2WD, many miles (unknown, really), standard tranny, Mazda type. About 2 years ago, developed a problem getting into 5th, but could get there with full clutching and force. The problem disappeared on its own.

    The problem has reappeared, about the same as before. It will probably take a good tranny mechanic to answer this one, but what is going on? I suspect that there is a problem with a synchronizer, but it may be carbon or dirt, which I might "cure" with some type of cleaner. I will appreciate any info available.
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    I have a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl 5 speed 2.5 liter engine with about 97000 miles on it and a new transmission that will not exceed 85 miles per hour. Can anyone tell me if this is unusual?
  • rnmparsonsrnmparsons Member Posts: 2
    I have a '76 Ford F-250. The other day I did a little welding on the rear bumper. When I went to start it a little later, there was no power anywhere except the horn. The battery is fully charged. I have 13 volts across the battery and to the front side of the solenoid, but no power and any of the other terminals of the solenoid in any key position. All the fuses are fine, fusible links are good, everything checks out o.k. Any ideas on where to check or what else might be wrong would be very helpful. :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    In general, just 3rd and 4th hand stuff I've read, says the Ranger 5-speeds are not very 'rebuildable'.

    I think what they said was if bearings are worn, the races are worn also, and because of the tranny being aliumum, this can't be repaired.

    I really don't have much knowledge about this. Just something for you to investigate further if you are thinking about tearing into the transmission.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    85 is about where the speed limiter shuts the truck down on all Rangers.

    And since a truck is basically a brick on wheels, 85 may be as fast as the 4 cylinder is going to push this brick.
  • davesdeadforddavesdeadford Member Posts: 1
    I have an 89 Ranger 4 cyl. with 8 spark plugs...2.3L. Changed all plugs when I noticd the engine runnin' rough. New wires also, but still rough idle. Smoothes out a bit at higher rpm but I a mafraid to drive it until I get it right. 145,000 miles and this is the only problem EVER. Any ideas, I no nothing about this truck, took 4 hours to change the plugs and wires, and didn't do much to the roughness.
  • corecore Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 94 3.0 V-6, 140K miles, owned since new. Over the years, it's developed a rough idle, sluggish run condition. The spark knock was horrible, even in overdrive at highway speeds. Did all the usual tune up stuff. No help. I still needed premium fuel to cut the spark knock down. I found a cheap $2 fix that made a world of difference, brought my torque back, and cut spark knock by 90 percent. It's similar to what the quick lube places call fuel induction, albeit a little more crude in method, but it WILL clean deposits from the heads and pistons, and it won't cost you a hundred bucks either.

    I bought a pint of fuel system cleaner and ran it through a vacuum line that fed directly into the intake manifold, (I used STP, but I think anything will work.)

    If you decide to try this, here's the tricks-

    I started with a cold engine, and used the vacuum hose that feeds the cruise control servo. It may be a good idea to buy a couple of feet of cheap hose to get you away from the exhaust manifold. Anything spilled on it will catch fire. Pinch the hose closed and stick it in the bottle.

    Slowly unpinch the hose and let the engine suck in the cleaner. Let it suck until it starts to bog down the idle, then pinch the hose and let it smooth out. You may need to rev it a little bit to keep the RPM"s up, but don't overdo it. If you let it take too much you could hydrolock the motor. When the bottle is empty, plug the vacuum line and let her idle for about 10 minutes, and you're done.

    THE SMOKE WILL BE EXTREME! Stay downwind from the tailpipe. Don't even think about doing this in a garage without some way to vent the exhaust out. You'll get tons of blue-white smoke until the cleaner burns out. It'll be the worst exhaust you've ever seen. Relax, it's just the detergents doing their job.

    Hope this helps"ya--it did wonders for me.
  • woobwoob Member Posts: 1
    my 95 ranger xlt, PURPLE TRUCK (for my wife), is not working right. PLEASE help as soon as possiable. My mechanic is patiently waiting to charge me for all the repair work........my directionals do not work. The fuses are fine and the battery is new. Everything else works great!
  • shopratshoprat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab 4X4, just bought it, great condition, couldn't believe it but when I take off the rear differential. rocks. I have checked the U-bolts and all are tight. Differential rock's about two inches upward. I have checked for recalls or other fixes, found nothing. Got any ideas?
  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    1. Use a timing light; be sure that you are getting spark to all cylinders; only one side in this case.

    2. Check ALL of your vacuum lines; in fact, you might simply plug all the lines at the engine at least to see if this the problem. The brake vacuum booster could be the problem, be sure to check it, and the vacuum line to it.

    3. Be sure that there are no leaks in your air feed line past the airflow sensor, if fuel injected; if not be sure that there are no vacuum leaks past the throttle body or carburetor. With the engine running, spray some sort of fuel at possible leaky areas; if you hit a leaky spot with the fuel, the engine should smooth out; you will have found the leaky area. Carb cleaner will do; it's flammable, be careful.

    4. Check cylinder compression; all cylinders should within a few PSI of each other. If not, you need a valve job, at best, or an overhaul or rebuild.

    5. The EGR valve might not be functioning properly, or EGR passages may be plugged; if so, the intake manifold will probably have to be removed and scraped out, or otherwise cleaned.

    6. If there is a possibility that vacuum lines could have been incorrectly installed, be sure that they are in the right place. (This one should have been no. 1 or 2)

    7. It is extremely unlikely, but you might have one or two exhaust ports, or intake ports plugged, or partly plugged.

    I hope that this helps; it comes from many years of figting problems.
  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    This is a P.S.

    If the unit is port injected, one or more injectors might be malfunctioning; plugged or partially plugged, or not getting the electrical impulse to fire it/them. You might try a shot of a good injector cleaner. (Berrymans is good, there are others.), also, check the wiring and connections to the injectors.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I may not understand exactly what you are asking, but it is perfectly normal for the front of the differential to move upward when you take off. This is a "live" axle on leaf springs and you will get this "wind up" on acceleration. Some Rangers have had issues with binding of the splines in the driveshaft when accelerating but the differential movement is normal.
  • ranger01ranger01 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 that I just replaced rotors and pads (the good bosch ceramic ones) three months ago and now when I brake it pulls to the left. Is that what was happening to you as well?

    Thanks
  • ranger2001ranger2001 Member Posts: 4
    This is due to federal epa regs which forced manufacturers to put a govoners on larger vehicles. when you are out of warranty you can either change the computer chip or get an obd II programer.
  • ranger2001ranger2001 Member Posts: 4
    The brake lines might hav to be bleed, and also ckeck the position of the spacers on the back of the pads. Use the ones that came with the pads. If that doesn't work check the hydro boost, and master brake cylinder to see if their are no blocked lines. Also check the brake fuse.
  • bcunnanebcunnane Member Posts: 1
    We just bought a 2000 Ranger and we want to put on access steps for both driver and passinger sides. Has anyone done this and if so what brand. I cannot find a brand that fits the ranger series of trucks.
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    Several issues here, first if your mechanic can't fix it without your help...UH ask for a discount.
    Second, get a wiring diagram, Pester the ford dealer, he'll get you one.
    Look at the flasher unit, the harness from the column. If I remember there is more than just turn signals on the handle, if everything else is working My first stop would be the flasher. then check the wiring from the column to the flasher. It really has to be somewhere in that harness. You might check for Haynes or Chilton manual to see if you can find a wiring diagram for the truck. The flasher is located close to the Fuse panel. Check the owners manual for exact location in the electrical fuse section. I just thought of this. Hazards, do they work. If not then it is in the power wire to the Hazard switch If they do then it is in the Flasher unit Good Luck :sick:
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    I have discovered this also with my '03. Very little in the way of accessories. You might look up Chuxtrux.com or http://www.luvernetruck.com Good Luck :shades:
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    Yup, My '03 with a 4L goes 90 and that's all folks. But then really. 90 in a 4WD on the highway....Get a bike!
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    I can probably help with the clunk rather than the WHEE! If you slide under the truck (brake and block tires) THe U-Joint may be worn. Grap the Drive shaft as it enters the differential, then just before the U-Joint grab the drive shaft. Twist in opposite directions, this is done 2 places, as the shaft exits the tranny and at the entrance to the differential. if there is play in the motion get the u-joint replaced. the age of the truck says this may be the issue. I have a standard in my '03 and if I abruptly let the clutch out from 1 to 2 shift I will get a clunk also. Not a bad idea to check it anyway. Now the Whee does it get worse when you idle the engine high and turn on the A/C. if so try the tensioner for the belt can be weak or even the tensioner pulley bearing. if you spray a little water on the belt while running the noise will change if it is the belt. I wouldn't use any dressings as they just make a mess. Those springs in the tensioner do give up Good Luck
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    It's junkyard time buddy, That truck out there at the u-Wrench it doesn't need it. Go find your type and peel the thing off and using clear shipping tape you have a new one
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    Sometimes the calipers hang. remove the left side caliper, pull of the hose and clean the thing. It is just not releasing like it should
  • mehtoolsmehtools Member Posts: 7
    Took the little '03 Ranger truck out to haul some stuff up a hill, had to put it in 4 low to pull up the muddy hill. It took 30 minutes to get it out and back to 2WD. I tried backing for a quarter mile. Rocking it beating the bageebers out of it and I finally flipped the switch and it went. Of course the dealer said Uh I've never seen that before......Any ideas anyone
  • stroud1124stroud1124 Member Posts: 4
    I just wanted to thank you for your help. I replaced the sensor like you suggested and it did correct the issue. I appreciate your help. You saved me a lot of money.
  • lyeltonlyelton Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I have a 1993 Ranger (4-cyl, no air, manual trans) and it has had a problem for several years now that is driving me nuts. If I let the truck sit for a week it refuses to crank. You can hear the solonoid click but that is it. The battery is charged... and I've even changed it to be sure. The headlights are on full brightness when this happens... voltage is up on the battery. I've changed starters and batteries. Cables are in good shape. In fact, the truck is in showroom condition. If I put the thing on a charger for even a short while it will start just fine. There is another fellow in town who's Ranger is doing the same thing. He disconnects the battery every time he exits the truck and it was the only way he could get around the problem.

    I've taken it to several mechanics and all have come up empty. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
  • walldog108walldog108 Member Posts: 1
    My heater stays on all of the time also on my 98 Ford Ranger. Where is the blend door exactly?

    Thanks,
    Grant
  • skgskg Member Posts: 16
    I installed Lund brand side steps on my 2000 Ranger Supercab with little difficulty. I think that I had to drill 3 or 4 holes in the frame rails on each side; but every thing was there in the instructions. Good Luck.
  • tle5000tle5000 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ford ranger supercab and the fuse that controls the O/D buttom keeps blowing. This fuse also controls the back up lights. Any ideas what may be wrong. The truck has 60k miles on it and is in excellent shape.
  • 87r40rocks87r40rocks Member Posts: 1
    YOU HAVE A BAD TEMP SENSOR. NOT THE ONE WITH ONE WIRE SHOULD HAVE A SPECIAL CONNECTOR PLUG RIGHT NEXT TO RADATOR HOSE
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    My 99 ranger with a 2.5L manual 4 cyl engine seems to only get about 17 miles to the gallon. The problem is it used to get about 20. Could it be my air filter? Suggestions? Thanks!
  • painter2painter2 Member Posts: 2
    your caliper is probably freezing up buy a new one
  • painter2painter2 Member Posts: 2
    my 96 ranger transmission slips in and out of overdrive.wondering if theres some kind of electronic sensor on transmission that might be the cause of the problem.also the switch on the shifter to shut off the overdrive stopped working.used to just turn off overdrive.now im slippin like crazy
    any suggestions? thanks.
  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    What you say isn't logical/ I don't doubt your sincerity. If, in fact, the battery is adequately charged, it shouldn't require a charge to start. Most likely you have a bad cable connection, a bad cable, or a poor ground connection, despite whatever checking has been done.

    Assuming that the battery is in fact poorly charged after the week, you probably have an excessive power draw,probably caused by some accessory being on, or a small light being on (sometimes a relay fails and keeps something on). Try removing the ground wire from the battery, check resistance between battery leads; resistance should be in megohms. It will not be infinite because of clock draw, etc. If resistance is less, find the cause, correct it. One particular place to look, if equipped, is the underhood light. Sometimes the switch fails, the light stays on, the battery discharges.

    I hope that this helps.
  • tle5000tle5000 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger and the pass. power door lock sometimes only goes about half way up and of course sometimes works great. Is there an adjustment on this inside the door? What do I need to do to fix this.
  • z1970suttonz1970sutton Member Posts: 3
    I have just purchased a 1994 3.0 V-6 auto ford ranger . It runs good but the oil fills up with raw fuel and it bellows white smoke upon acceleration especially during in town stop and go driving.I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil the smoking has slowed but only because of the clean oil, the oil is filling up with gas again.This is my 2nd oil change and it will start smoking again Does any one know what the problem could be?Also the top of the regulator has a vacuum line attachment but their was no line.Where is it supposed to go to.If this truck blows I will be in serious trouble as it is my only transpo...I know the gas in the oil is damaging the motor and its killing me. Can someone help!
  • fordrick1fordrick1 Member Posts: 1
    my rear door won't open, the latch at the top won't release (but the bottom latch releases). I'd like to get inside to see what's wrong, but don't know how to get the panel off and I don't want to break anything. thanks
  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    I'm not sure about all of your problem, but, per one of the auto repair manuals, the vacuum line to your pressure regulator is simply engine vacuum, i.e. manifold vacuum. There should be a vacuum routing diagram under the hood somewhere; check it out,run a line as shown. If there is no diagram, find the vacuum tap, somewhere on the intake manifold. Trace all of the lines from that point; you should find a disconnected line, or plugged line, or some such. That should be the line to your regulator; hook it up.

    The regulator works by controlling fuel flow back to the tank; in your case, the injectors see all of the pressure that the fuel pump produces. I I don't know how the fuel gets into your oil, but, getting the regulator to working might correct all of the problem.

    Be aware, you might have a bad regulator.
  • z1970suttonz1970sutton Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the advice I will see to it tonight! You believe the new regulator could be defective; huh I would never have figured that . I will take it back and get another,it was very simple to replace.

    Thanks Again,
    Gary
  • ranger_ownerranger_owner Member Posts: 1
    The same exact thing started happening to me on Oct 3. I have a 96 ranger, 4-cyl, no air, man trans. I push started it and it would go. Then it started ok for 2 days. Today, I couldn't start it again.

    I have the same exact symptoms - solenoid clicks, nothing else. Battery is fine.
  • dine1dine1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1994 ford ranger x-cab. Whenever the engine warms up and I apply the brakes, the battery guage and oil pressure guage go crazy. When the battery guage reads 0, and I try to use the door locks or power windows, not only do the locks/windows don't work, it somehow turns off my satellite radio that is plugged into the cigarette outlet. I have thought of replacing all of the wires behind the instrument panel, but is this worth it? I forgot to mention that when the battery guage reads 0, both turn signal lights (in the instrument panel) will turn on and stay on. The truck does have close to 200,000 miles on it, so I need advice on whether to try to fix my electrical problems or just give in and give up the truck.
  • lyeltonlyelton Member Posts: 2
    Hi... The reply just before yours for my question lists all of the "normal" things that need to be checked. I have done these also, but didn't list them because I thought it obvious and didn't wish a very long post to the group. I assume you have done the same. There is an underhood light and I have removed it so that isn't the problem. The starter has been changed... twice. The battery has also, and the current one is only a few months old. I found a person this past week who had a BMW that did the same thing and was told by a dealer, "that is just the way it is." He now drives a different brand of car.

    The fellow before you in this post thread indicated it might be a relay. I was aware it might be... I was hoping that this was common enough that I didn't have to tear the whole truck wiring harness apart to find it. I guess it isn't, which is good for Ford, but this is an irritating problem.

    I am about to rig up a relay of my own to disconnect the battery via a switch under the dash, with only the clock, radio, and relay circuit energized at all times. It is a bit of a kludge repair, but my sanity is worth it.

    If the switch were well hidden it would also have the added advantage of being a theft deterrent. Sounds like my weekend project... if I can get the truck started to move it to my shop.

    Good luck with your truck.

    Larry
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