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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    hmm, isn't that strange.
    My ideas on this right now is that if it does revert back, it could be the fuel/oxygen mixture or a foreign chemical mixing with the fuel (i.e. oil, water) either from the vehicle or from the station tanks.
    Now that it straightened up for God only knows how long, I'm almost sure its not an exhaust related problem.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    I would turn the key on in my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
    I checked the power to the fuel pump in the tank and it works.
    I looked for another fuel pump on the driver side frame near the door and all I find is a fuel filter.
    If anyone reading this message knows what else to check or knows what the problem is it would be a great help, because from here I have no idea whatsoever.
  • youngstownyoungstown Member Posts: 2
    i recently purchased a 2005 ranger - edge - 6cyl - 5 speed 2w drive. on wet roads i sometimes experience the rear wheels slipping. i'm just wondering how it's going to handle in the winter months and in snow. if you have any coments about your experience with a ranger edge in snow please let e know.

    thanks
    youngstown
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    I've experienced the same thing in an older Ranger. I put an 89 Ranger in the ditch once when I spun out on black ice. All I did was back off the accelerator, never even touched the brake and the rearend came unglued. My best advice is to keep some weight in the back and make sure you keep a lid on your coffee cup. ;)
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Sounds to me like your fuel pump is dead.

    It is inside the gas tank. Tank will have to be dropped.

    On the fuel rail on top of the motor, there should be a schrader valve. Get a fitting for this, rubber gasline hose, and a gauge that will not be ruined by gasoline. Put this contraption on the scrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the key on. You should get 45pounds, maybe more, of pressure. Less, you have a failing fuel pump. Zero, you have a dead fuel pump.
  • chi_gatorchi_gator Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys. Trying to find out what I can tow with my 97 4.0L V-6 Ranger, automatic, splash extended cab. Hitch #300 I think. .Don't know what class that is but I do have a towing package which includes transmission cooler.
    The Ranger Manual looks like 3000# GVWR but I think this is the same thing as the Mazda B4000 40L V-6 which can pull 5800. I know this ranger can pull more
    than others.
    I'd like to get camper 19-22' ultra lite aerolite cub unloaded 3300# GVWR 4840.

    I get 2 different answers varying between the above references. one should be fine and 2 no too heavy. Does anyone know for sure?!!

    Your help would greatly be appreciated. Safety comes first.
    thanks- chi_gator
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the advice.

    I replaced the fuel pump shut off switch and the solenoid.
    My Step-Dad feels that I just simply ran out of gas. I asked him if there was ever a time when he drove it that the buzzing sound that he always believed was the fuel pump working wasn't there and he told me that the buzzing sound was always there. This tells me that he's never had this problem and that what he believes is whats right. He told me to put the tank back on the truck, put gas in it, and drive it down the road. I'm thinking I will also put the old parts back on it just to insure to that its not going to start no matter how much gas he has put in it. either that or not put the gas in it and start the truck.
    My step dad isn't very confident of me and when I dont know how to do something I dont do it until I know for sure that I am able to do it with few conflicts.
    If it starts without the gas being put into it it either had to be dirt built up around the wire connector at the fuel pump or the solenoid went out.
    The tank has between 1 and 2 gallons in it. the day before this happenned I was talking to him about signing the truck back over to him. Since he's so sure I ran out of gas, I'm thinking I need to hand him the singed title in the morning before I do anything else to the truck; then put the truck back the way it was; old solenoid and old shut off switch. Now I think if it doesn't start, he's gonna accuse me of tearing his truck up just like he did when the slave cylinder went out the 3rd time (he accused me of riding the clutch) The 1st two times it went out, he was driving the truck and he had nobody to blame. So if only riding the clutch will cause the slave cylinder to go out, does that mean he was riding the clutch and never learned from his own mistake; therefore he feels that I dont have the ability to learn causing him to not be confident of my learning ability? He would never admit that.
    He's told me that this 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed truck has 2 coils and 8 plugs, therefore it has to be firing somewhere, which i dont doubt. However I have seen cases where there was a problem with something else and it caused the coil and the distributor to go out. I'll let everyone know tomorrow night how things turn out.
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    You're talking about a lot of variables here. I'm guessing that you're truck has the 3.55 rearend. If you have the 2" receiver hitch and a tow package you shouldn't have any problems with a small camper.
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    Please let me know on the gem and high idle. Now my 4x4 indacator light on the dash is blinking sometime. Still have high idle problem. Thanks.
  • karen13karen13 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 92 ford ranger and needs to rebuild the transmission it is a manual transmission and every place he has checked on the kit they ask for the tooth count on the 5th gear, is there any way to find out what the tooth count is without pulling the transmission?? He lives out of town so it is hard for him to come home often and he wanted to order the kit then make the trip in to fix it. thanks for any help you can provide.
  • gunchgunch Member Posts: 1
    The first time I start the truck each day, I hear a muffled sound I would compare to a small door shutting rapidly, possibly on something just below the floor board or in the engine compartment near the firewall. A mechanic I know says that it may have something to do with the vaccuum system shutting a climate control door of some kind. Anybody familiar with this?
  • dwarywodadwarywoda Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone, New member here!!!

    I bought a 2005 Ranger (4x4 Ext Cab 4.0 Automatic) in June. I haven't really got any kind of decent mileage with the truck but im still breaking it in, so I can understand. In the past month, though, the mileage has dropped off significantly (3-4 MPG). I was wandering if anyone else has experienced this or if anyone knows what might cause such a fall off
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    If you have recently had the oil changed that could have something to do with it. We have an 04 Mercury Moutaineer with the 4.0. I took it to the shop and had the oil changed at around 10,000 miles and they put 10W30 in it though the engine calls for 5W30. I noticed in the weeks after that the fuel mileage was down about 1.5 mpg per the trip computer. At 13,500 miles I changed it again this time going back to the specified oil. 500 miles later we are back to what we were getting.
  • madmartianmadmartian Member Posts: 2
    I have have an increasing problem with my 1984 ranger. It`s a 2.8ltr.with a 2brl. carb.It will not start when the weather is cool and rainy, but if the motor is good and hot it has no problem.When it cools down it becomes increasingly harder to start until it won`t start anymore.Coud it be a sensor or choke problem or what could it be? I need some ideas to start checking on.
  • lakeshowlakeshow Member Posts: 4
    Yep I sure did fill up the day before it started running crappy. But it was at a station I normally get gas at. Crazy!! Thanks for the words of advice.
  • kthr33kthr33 Member Posts: 1
    Since the mornings have turned cold, 35-50 deg, my 92 Ranger, 3.0, 5 spd manual, 2 wd, 22/25 mpg, 289000 miles, runs rough at start and stays rough for 10/20 minutes, then smooths out (gradually, not all of a sudden) and all is back to normal. Even starts later in the day, 4 hours or so, are OK. The colder the morning, the rougher the run. Starting hasn't changed, still starts fine, just runs rough at start. Until the mornings turned cold, it's been starting and running fine. Any ideas, suggestions, comments any one would like to offer about what may be causing this morning sickness and any possible corrective actions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, K.
  • motzmotz Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 94 Ranger and recently by brake lights have stopped working, but the top/middle light on the cab still works.
    I've checked around this forum and it seems like it could be the brakelight switch but I don't think it is because the top/middle still works.
    All my other lights (signals, reverse, headlights and tail lights) are still working, so I don't think it is the fuse.
    Any ideas?
  • tnlady50tnlady50 Member Posts: 5
    had to replace my oxygen sensor on my 1998 ranger XLT and i can't get the check engine light to go off. Took the battery cable loose and it went off but came back on after a few miles. Had a person at Auto Zone tell me that I had to give the computer time to recognize the new part then the light would go off. is this true or am I going to have to take it to the Ford place to get it checked out? The old one got jerked out when barbed wire got wrapped around it. Thanks for any help
  • hacker2hacker2 Member Posts: 1
    My thanks to everyone for the input on this subject. I was thinking I was going to be soaked silly getting all those error lights and transmission problems resolved. I went to my transmission shop, warranty in hand, and he was impressed with the info in this forum. Total repair cost was $85 bucks. Thanks again.
    Hank
  • gangigangi Member Posts: 1
    hi, this is gangi. u know any one who can help me out in finding the speed sensor wire on my ford crown victoria . 1994.
    u have any idea?? i am in desperate situation.
  • jessie4001jessie4001 Member Posts: 1
    hi everyone- i have a 1999 ford ranger 5 speed 2wd.. there is some kind of noise while driving that sounds like air comming out of a tire. It was doing it for a while, seemed to stop, but is now louder than ever. I have asked a few people about this before and their solution was that i was either in too low or high of a gear....i assure you this is not the problem (just because i am a girl does not mean i don't know how to shift) My truck sometimes bucks too...even when its in the right gear Also, the ABS light is on...i just got new breaks and it did not go off. I read that this may be because i got new tires or because i need to change the sensor or because i need to change the VSS???? Finally the spedometer 1st stopped working until 30mph and now it doesn't until 60mph??i heard this could also be the VSS......please help !
  • larsondailylarsondaily Member Posts: 5
    Ok i was trying to do test on my gem module and i could not get comunication and the dome light started flashing, what that means i don't know, but i do know it is going to need a new gem module,
    but ever scince then the truck runs fine.
    Whith your truck, the 4x4 controls come from the gem module so that might be the problem, if you have a good mechanic take it to him and have him put the scanner on it. if he can't, write me back and i will give you directions.Good luck and let me know what happens.
    Cheers, Brian
  • jrumnjrumn Member Posts: 1
    Dont know if you have found out whats going on yet or not!
    I have run in to this a few times, you might want to check in to the turn signal switch! You see the standard brake lights run through the turn signal switch, this is how it splits up the bulbs for the turn signals in the rear. Which in turn there is a separate signal sent back to the (center High Mount stop lamp) from the brake light switch.
    So if the circuit in the turn signal goes out, the standard brake lights will be inop, But the high mount will still work!
    And Yes,
    If this does happen the turn signals will still work, Two different circuits!
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    The speed sensor wire on most Fords are usually on the Tranny at the side near the bottom, whether it be RWD or FWD. If it is FWD the wire may be near the CV Joint at the wheel. I would check the brake hub 1st for any wires connecting to it. Then trace the drive train to the engine. Be careful, there is more than one sensor on the drive train (1 for mechanical; 1 for tranny fluid; 1 for tranny oil(manual shifts have self sustaining oil in the tranny).
    The self-sustaining oil can get old and whatever therefore has to be checked periodically(every 5 to 8 yrs).
    Follow the wires to see where it goes. if theres any wires that go directly to the dash from the drive train chances are thats the one your looking for. If your speedo is digital the the wire goes to a computer brain or to a breaker box under the hood. Check the manuel for any fuse/breaker/microchip that works the speedometer.
  • garangergaranger Member Posts: 1
    My Tach light had burned out, and half of my lights were black, so i replaced the bulbs, and the work fine now. But No there is a beeping, Im assuming that it is because I took the gauges out, but how do i reset that? does anyone know or should i just take it to the dealer?

    Thanks
  • ed462med462m Member Posts: 1
    I NEED HELP LOCATING THE FELT AROUND THE WINDOW,FOR PASSENGER AND DRIVERS SIDE,ALSO NEED THE RUBBER WHERE THE WINDOW GOES INTO THE DOOR. FOR 1988 FORD RANGER 4X2, 2DOOR.
  • scharpscharp Member Posts: 1
    My 17 year old was in a minor accident. His Airbag went off and now we can't get the truck to start. Nothing, no lights , no turnover. Does any one know where the switch is to reset the system? The damage appears to be to the bumper and turn lights only. Please help. Thanx Kathleen
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I have a 1994 Ranger, and it does not have airbags. You must have a later model.

    Anyway, for my 94, the fuel pump collision reset is inside, above/at the top of/slightly behind the carpet, on the right side of the driveline tunnel. There is a box with a button on the top that needs to be pushed.

    I just read your message again.
    No light. No turnover.
    This doesn't indicate just the fuel pump is deactivated (although it might have been). If this is deactivated, the lights would work, the motor should crank over, it just will not start because the fuel pump does not pump fuel.

    You've lost the battery somehow. It may have broken a battery post off, broken a cable, or something like that.

    Sometimes 'minor' accidents can cause much more damage than imagined.
  • bigcmanbigcman Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 Ford Ranger, 2.3L engine, 230,000 miles (90,000 on engine).

    Anyhow, at certain times the rpm's will drop down and it will develop a serious miss. It sounds like a lawn mower going down the road.

    For instance, lets say im goin 55 mph in 5th gear.which is usually around or below 3,000 rpm's. All the sudden the rpms will drop down to 1500, and it will start putting along. Then the tach will go up again and it will start running properely.

    I have changed the fuel filter, all 8 plugs, plug wires, fuel pump.

    I have been told that bad fuel could cause this, but it is happening too much to be bad fuel. Am I losing a coil pack? There is a exhaust leak on the manifold, could this be letting cold air into the engine?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    I have the 4.0 engine, 5 speed stick, 4 wheel drive. My factory cruise control worked intermittently last year, and this year it has been completely dead. No signs of a bad fuse. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not absolutely sure, but I think the cruise is driven from the ABS sensor in the rear differential.

    It should be throwing some codes if the sensor is bad. Is your check engine light on?
  • exploder750exploder750 Member Posts: 159
    No, check engine light is not on.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    On second thought, the cruise is probably driven by a sensor that goes into the transmission, it's part of the cable that goes into there. If there are two wires where the cable goes into the transmission, that's it.

    Anyway, I'm not sure I would 'throw parts' at this problem. This might need to be something a comptenet mechanic needs to check out.
  • herehere Member Posts: 2
    sometimes my 4 wheeldrive indicater lights come on when truck is started and go off when truck is put in gear, and somtimes they dont come on at all. Transfer case is not being activated! I tested the button on the Moduale behind the seat, it flashed 4 times showing its good! I jacked it up seeing that front differential works by turning drive shaft.
    Anyone had this problem or got any ideals what to check? Anyone know where to go from checking the dash swithes on through the system?
  • tigger57tigger57 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. I have not only replaced the O2 sensors but the mass air flow sensor,the fuel flow regulator and 2 fuel filters. My problem came about due to bad fuel that caused me to replace the injectors. Needless to say I have spent a lot on this problem and I still have the darn light on. I have checked the codes on the engine diagnostics and they always come back as lean bank 1 and lean bank 2. Any help would be appreciated.
  • krodkrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a High RPM problem when my clutch is engaged it hangs at a high idle. The truck seems to run normal though after clutch is left out. Can any one help
  • krodkrod Member Posts: 2
    94 Ford Ranger 3.0L. I have a High RPM problem when my clutch is engaged it hangs at a high idle. The truck seems to run normal though after clutch is left out. Can any one help????
  • brinz28brinz28 Member Posts: 1
    what will happen if i remove my entire exhaust?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've seen the solution to this problem, and on this site I think, but I don't remember what it was......

    Can someone else remember? I know this has been covered on here.
  • 2vs2vs Member Posts: 6
    Sorry if this was addressed in the past but I am new to this discussion. I have a very low mileage 1994 Ranger 4Cyl and the gas gauge just stopped working (needle doesn't move from empty). Is this a common problem? Any experience out there? Thanks for any help.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've got a 94. This does not seem to be a common problem.

    If the sender has failed, it's inside the tank, which will have to be dropped.

    If I dropped the tank, I probably would also replace the fuel pump that is also in there. This 94 is now at least 11 years old....

    (The sender and fuel pump may be one assembly, which means you've got to replace both.)
  • bigcmanbigcman Member Posts: 3
    Yeah, I had the same problem with a 91 ranger. And yes you have to replace the entire hanger assempbly.

    Your best bet is to simply take all the bolts out of the bed, and move the bed back a little. No need to undo the tail lights, you wont move it that far. In all it should take an hour or so.

    Now dont listen to anyone that says its easier to just drop the tank, no its not. I have done it both ways, to drop the tank you have to drain it, then lay flat on your back, get a mouthful of mud and rust, then somehow lift the tank back up by your self. Just move the bed, and spend more time on something else, plus you can test your pump before you put the bed back incause somethign doesn't work.
  • liman1liman1 Member Posts: 7
    I'm debating whether to go with a Ford extended warranty and would appreciate any opinions. I have a 2003 Ranger XLT, 3.0, 2wd, auto, limited slip, standard cab, tilt/cruise, short bed. My warranty expires March 2006. I have around 11k miles on the truck, bought new. I was looking at the 7yr/75k extracare coverage. Should run around $1100-1200. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  • 2vs2vs Member Posts: 6
    Hey, thanks for the replies. Wish this was an easy solution but the sliding of the bed sounds better than removing the tank. Sounds like a job for next spring.
  • cday1cday1 Member Posts: 1
    GET THE EXTENDED WARRANTY !!!
    I spent $2000 repairing my transmission at 50,000 miles. I'm now at 70,000 miles and it needs more transmission work !
    No wonder Ford doean't provide a drivetrain warranty as good as Toyota
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    From what I understand this engine is pretty bad on fuel mileage. Does any one else have this problem, and has anyone got any solutions to help improve the mileage. I have already changed the plugs and air filter. Suggestions would be great.
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    I just recently bought a 2000 ranger 4.0L V6. It doesn't seen to have much power too it. It goes,but i can get the pedal all the way door and she is slow to pick up. any others have this problem and any way to fix it?
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    hello there, anyone else have poor gas mileage on the 2000 Ranger 4.0L V6. Any ideas or tricks to get her a lot better. I have already changed the plugs and filter.
  • maillotjaune17maillotjaune17 Member Posts: 2
    Help me!! My 1994 Ford Ranger's tail lights do not come on when the lights are turned on. The brake lights work, so do the directional lights, but the lights themselves do not come on. Got a "five day" tag from jerk police, so need help soon. What could it be??? :confuse:
  • maillotjaune17maillotjaune17 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen to me. Gas got really low one time, then when I filled it up, the gauge didn't work. Had to drop the tank and replace float. The gas had rotted a hole into the float and filled the float up with gas, so it didn't work.
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