Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1…3435373940…59

Comments

  • rangerman1984rangerman1984 Member Posts: 1
    i got another transmisson, 4 speed and i want to convert the hydralic cluch into a line clutch. how would i do that. would i have to change anything?
  • branj_josebranj_jose Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Ford Ranger V6 and the air in the interior is only coming out of the defrosters. The positions of he air control are not working inside the truck. purchased a new control switch but still nothing. Anyone seen this before?

    Thinking it was a vacuum leak or broken line I searched under the dash then then under the hood. I did find 2 burnt lines which were not connected to anything under the coil. However, I can't seem to figure out where they go. I searched everywhere. Could this be the reason I only get air from the defrosters and if so does anyone
    have any idea where the 2 lines connect? Thanks...
  • branj_josebranj_jose Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what the problem was with your 97 Ranger? I'm having the same problem. I only get air through the defrosters. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Brandon.
  • ranger76ranger76 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Ranger 4X4 XLT with 4.0L V-6 and 5-speed automatic with 101K miles. I've noticed a minor cracking/grinding/popping noise coming from the front end at low speeds. The noise seems to be most noticable in stop and go traffic. I've checked the brakes and replaced the front shocks with no changes in the noise. There is also a slight vibration that seems to resonate through the steering wheel when the noise occurs. At times the noise seems to follow the rythm of the wheels turning. Besides brakes and shocks, what else should I consider? Someone mentioned ball joints and tie rod ends but I haven't checked those yet. Thanks.
  • ar15203ar15203 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem which has just occurred. I have not found a solution as of yet. Did you find any answers?
  • stratoviperstratoviper Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1997 Ford Ranger. About 2 years ago, my check engine light came on. I had it scanned, and it came up with a code of 1443B ( Evap Ctrl Sys/Vac Sys). I work in the automotive field, and asked a few mechanics if it was serious. They told me no, I was just polluting the air more than normal. About a month ago, I noticed that the truck was going through a ton of gas. I scanned it again. Came up with P1405B (DPFE upstream hose off), and P0402 (Excessive EGR flow). Anyone have any ideas? I hate to change a bunch of parts, and find out it was just one part. Help!!!! If you can.
  • rng99rng99 Member Posts: 1
    Ok...I read a ton of posts about the VSS but in a 99 there is no VSS. The antilock does have a sensor, so it is either that or the pcm. My problems are very similar to a VSS problem....speedo stopped working....hard shift...abs light on...I do not know which way I should go.
  • cwermancwerman Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Ranger has the same problem with the air control stuck on defrost. I am just starting to research the problem. I will let you know if I figure it out. Any help or suggestions would be great.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think this is the year (or a couple of years about this age) with a 'usual' problem.

    I can't describe exactly the problem, with correct names, but here is my best try.

    The post on one of the 'air control' flappers (or the post on the control rod that moves the flapper) in the heater box is broken. It is plastic, and it just breaks. To repair, the dash must be removed to get it out. And the part (I think) is part of the entire air control set of flappers ( usually 2 or 3 'flappers') - it must all be replaced. Big money. $1,000 or so.

    If you are mechanically handy, if you look on other Ford Ranger sites, there is a documented 'work around'. It is pretty messy, involving drilling a hole through the broken shaft and inserting a pin, or something like this. Not really sure about this. But it fixes the old part and don't have to buy the entire air assembly.

    Good luck. If this is your problem, you have quite a problem to get it working correctly again.
  • mcs2mcs2 Member Posts: 1
    have a 2000 ranger. engine blew @ 38000mi. all internall (no oil or visual damage). same loss of compressoin and loss of all electric power as well. dealer blamed valve spring break, had to replace engine. i am hearing more of this prob. and wonder about manufacturing prob. there is a reason for loss of compression...
  • mrp1mrp1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I had the exact same problem with my 99. They would usually break free but the last time resulted in a trip to the shop on a flatbed. The problem is a seal on the rear hub that is prone to leaking. The folks at Utton's Mufflers (802) 229-9005 in Montpelier Vt are familiar with the issue and can tell you exactly what the problem is.

    Good luck.

    MP
  • mrp1mrp1 Member Posts: 3
    Visually erfiy that your front drive shaft still spins (drive back and forth a few times) after the 4wd drops out. If so, its either bad locking hubs (I had to replace mine) or a vacuum leak on the lines that drive the locking hubs (also a problem on mine). The lines come off the front hubs and meet just in back of and below the right headlight at a solonoid then run back to the firewall. put a vaccum gauge on the line at the hubs and verify that it pull 14 in of h20 vacuum and doesn't leak more than .5 in h20 in 30 seconds. repeat for both hubs and then upstream of the vacuum solonoid.

    Good luck,

    MP
  • billybob6billybob6 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, I have 87' 2.9 5 speed. The clutch was just replaced and the point of friction is so far off the floor it is almost at the point where the pedal stops. It is hard to drive, but you just have to get used to it.
  • ejr16ejr16 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 93 Ranger V6 5-speed, and about a month ago, it has started to make a clacking/screeching right at cold startup. It goes away after started, and does not happen if it has been started multiple times and warms up.

    Any ideas??
  • lnoirotlnoirot Member Posts: 1
    How do I disable the anti theft device so my auto starter will work, I have a transponder in it now with the code key in it, but when I plug in the power to the bulldog starter, the parking lights blink continuosly Iv tryed a few things already but nothing seems to work, can any one help, thank you
    Louis
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L V6 automatic. I am having a problem. When I go downhill, i lose speed like no tomorrow, out of all vehicles I have driven I have never had a problem losing speed downhill. I have checked my brakes and they are fine, nothing has rusted up. Is it possibley my transmission not going out of a gear it should be? and is it a sensor or a solenoid I can replace. any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    My truck has quite a noise coming from the power steering. Is this normal for the rangers?
  • oggywinksoggywinks Member Posts: 2
    I'm concerned about electric shift to 4wd I have always had machanical shift (GMC) Now I'm looking at Ford ranger. The electric shift from switch on dash is troubleing. Maybe your problem is a Solonoid or damaged wiring to solonoid. That sounds kind of cheap for a rugged off road vehicle. Solonoids can burn out or even blow a fuse and stop ability to shift into 4wd when you need it most.
  • oggywinksoggywinks Member Posts: 2
    Maybe I should stay with GMC or go to Toyota Tacoma.???
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Why not go ahead and get a real truck and buy a Dodge?? :)
  • nathanbnathanb Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Ranger Edge 2x4 and have torn apart the front brakes every few months for the last few years. Problems include sticking brakes, warped/out-of-true rotors, severely rusted rotors made of pig iron :) , etc. I've replaced the rotors a couple times and the pads many times. Tonight, I get to tear into it again if I can get home from work. Guess it's time to replace the calipers? I might try the grease you mentioned too. My Ford mechanic buddy told me these Ranges are great; except for their front-ends. I'd like to report this problem to someone with authority.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My driver's side mirror got knocked out and I can't get it in the housing correctly. Everything looks in tact. It has two spring (aluminum) arms on the one side and I can't find where they hook up. Anyone have any thoughts??? :confuse:
  • porterson2002porterson2002 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '91 ranger with a 4.0 and the five-speed manual transmission. i was wondering if anybody had any ideas that might help me with my problem. i have fuel, spark and the injector fires at the right time, becuase the coil is a dual pole coil i know that it is good. but that cylinder is still dead, i am plum out of ideas. my father and one of the master mechanics that he employs can't figure out what is wrong with my truck?
  • fadedfordfadedford Member Posts: 4
    I am wondering how to go about changing the turn signal horn in my 1984 ranger to a steering wheel horn instead.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Are you cleaning the rust off the 'slide' areas where the caliper moves in and out?

    Use a steel brush or something like this, and then coat with the special brake grease.

    Also, if these calipers have 'pins', be sure to grease the pins when you put them back in.
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    Why not go ahead and get a real truck and buy a Dodge??

    Why would you want a vehicle that has a name that means "steer clear of"? :P
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Why not go ahead and get a real truck and buy a Dodge??

    Why would you want a vehicle that has a name that means "steer clear of"?

    That's meant solely as a warning to pedestrians..... :P
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    I have driven the Toyota, both in standard and automatic. Great truck overall, but I have no complaints on my 1994 Ford Ranger, either.
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    I have been having a problem in my 1998 Ranger xlt 5spd mnl trans truck with the lights. When a passenger gets in, the overhead lights like to stay on. After about 20 mins, they blink out, as the should normally. The door open dummy light stays on too...anyone know anything?

    This is most likely a bad door switch. ford hid them WELL in the 98 models, so I can't suggest where it's located, but if you can find it, replace it. Also, let me know its location, my sister has a similar problem with a 98 Mercury (Ford) Sable, but i can't locate the switch
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    I also own a 94 Ranger. Look at your Haynes manual again. i have the same book. The wiring diagrams are in chapter 12, the one applicable to mine in particular is on page 12-19. Since you are going from the fuse to the inertia switch, you are bypassing the fuel pump relay, which is most likely the culprit. Good luck.

    My '94 Ranger failed to startup recently. After some debugging work, I found out that the fuel pump is not turned on during startup. The fuse is fine. I can also make the fuel pump running by jumping a wire directly to inertia switch. So the problem must lies somewhere in the circuit between the fuse and the inertia switch. I have a Haynes Repair Manual but could not find any wiring diagram about the fuel pump. Does anyone know how the fuel pump is wired, or where I can possibly find the wiring diagram? Thanks in advance!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Another usual problem with this age Rangers.

    The switch is inside the doors. It is near the lock itself, not the hinges. Some people have luck spraying WD40 or Electrical Cleaner through the lock or through the outside handle.

    Best way is to remove the door panel and actually get to the switch. Clean it or replace it.
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    I was looking at a 99 ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 engine and the auto 4 spd trans. When test driving I noticed that when I slowed down to a crawl I could feel a thunk in the drive line some where, then when I took off from a stand still I felt another thunk. Is this normal for a ford? I am not used to fords so I am wondering if this one is about to have a problem. It had 31k miles on it.

    Thanks!

    This isn't normal on any car, I would look at something else. I own a 1994 V6 Ranger, 5 speed maual with no such issues
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    The switch is inside the doors. It is near the lock itself, not the hinges. Some people have luck spraying WD40 or Electrical Cleaner through the lock or through the outside handle.

    Best way is to remove the door panel and actually get to the switch. Clean it or replace it.

    This will then likely apply to the situation I have with the Sable. Thanks
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    My truck has quite a noise coming from the power steering. Is this normal for the rangers?

    Check the fluid level
  • redsoxfan5redsoxfan5 Member Posts: 8
    I am wondering how to go about changing the turn signal horn in my 1984 ranger to a steering wheel horn instead.

    You may have to get a steering wheel off an newer model or an aftermarket replacement, since a horn switch isnt built into your steering wheel. Then you will have to re route the switch wire(s) to the steering wheel's horn button
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    Dodge - "that warning is for pedestrians"

    Yeah, I guess if you're walking toward one, it would be a good turn toward a ford. :shades:
  • spyder123spyder123 Member Posts: 5
    I was attempting to remove the schock absorber on my '94 4x4 Ranger when I snapped the bottom mounting hardware. This would be the tab stud that is on the radius arm. Does anybody know if the tab stud is removable/replaceable w/o having to replace the entire radius arm? It appears it should come off, but, then it looks like it was machine pressed. Gotta love those engineers!
  • ridge_runnerridge_runner Member Posts: 4
    I just picked up a '91 Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed. I am enjoying the truck but don't like the way it handles through turns and during quick changes in steering. Has anyone tried anti-sway bars?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sway bars are mostly for body roll...if you have slipping/sliding, that's more of a tire problem. If you have a lot of directional instability in a hard turn (wandering, bouncing) that's a shock/strut problem usually.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    You probably have a aging serpentine belt. Check the inside of the belt for cracks. It probably needs replacement.
  • ridge_runnerridge_runner Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. I feel like I need sway bars and new shocks after reading your response. Do you have any recommendations?
  • avery2avery2 Member Posts: 2
    2004 Ford Ranger purchased with no fog lights but would like to add factory lights, got the lights on e bay but do I need other hardware to install and where is the best place to run wire to the switch,
  • dchepurnadchepurna Member Posts: 1
    On my 2000 Ranger with 3.0 V6 the oil pressure gauge does not register until driven about a mile- plenty of oil in crankcase-no rapping sounds. I purchased a oil pressure sending unit-but can't locate the old one-anyone have an idea where it is? Thanks. DON CHEPURNA
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You mean surf a website like this and see if it gives you any ideas:

    http://www.suspensionconnection.com/
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    I am just writing to let people know about a fix I have done to my 2000 4.0L V6 Automatic Ranger. I have found out through some investigation about these engines being easily coated in carbon buildup. I do more city driving then highway so it is really bad. I have poor gas mileage about 280km/60Litres tank. I took my trunk into get an Induction Service and my Fuel Injectors commercial grade cleaned. My mileage is at about 340km/60Litres tank, and i have rid all knocking noises. I recomend cleaning the idle control solonoid, because it gets a lot of build up, which in returns makes a huge hi pitch humming noise. Just letting you guys know, just incase others are having this problem.
  • muddme77muddme77 Member Posts: 1
    well my 93 is dong the sme stuff so i guess i should replace my shift motor also.
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    Today I rolled up 240,000 miles on my 96 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 5-speed. It may die tomorrow, but for now the truck seems to be going strong. :)

    Recently, I did notice a low-pitched whining noise on cold mornings before the truck has had time to warm up. I took it to a local mechanic who is a friend of mine. He suggested that with the number of miles the transmission oil probably needed to be changed. I had him change it and so far I haven't noticed the sound anymore.
  • scshepardscshepard Member Posts: 1
    Hi, having same 'ole bleed the clutch; noticed that the link was wrong, try:
    http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/bleedclutch.htm

    Thanks for the help!!
  • yugueroyuguero Member Posts: 1
    Help I need someone to tell me how to fix my 93 Ranger it doesn't fire. I checked the ignition module and it is OK I can't fine the crankshaft sensor to check it the book said it was by the crankshaft pully but i can't find it or the wires to it. If someone can help I sure would be gratful
  • xmashayesxmashayes Member Posts: 1
    The bad, clunky noise I am speaking of is very specific. It only, and almost always, happens when I am in 4 wheel drive, and switch from reverse to drive. So I back the truck up, come to a stop, put it in drive, and there is a terrible, metalic thump that seems to be coming from the front end when I start to move the truck forward. The first time it happened, I freaked out and crawled around under the front end, but everything seems to be in place. Anyone have any ideas of what this might be?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles