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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wanni01wanni01 Member Posts: 1
    I am sorry I don't really have a Ford Ranger. I have just purchased a 1999 Mazda B4000 with 100,000mi and I was told that it is the exact same truck as a Ranger. I was wondering if anyone of you has ever replaced the instrument lights. I couldn't reach from under to get to the bulbs. It looks like I will have to take the whole cluster out. Are there any tricks in removing the instrument cluster? Please help.
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    Hello I have a 2000 4.0L V6. I have been hearing a noise that sounds like a can of pop opening when I shut the engine off. If I listen closely I also hearing a boiling gurgle noise....anyone know what this might be? I have checked alot of my vacuum lines with little success. I also seem to have a metalic knocking noise coming from the engine. i only have 72,000km original on the engine. anyways I hope someone can help me out.

    Brent
  • junktruckjunktruck Member Posts: 2
    Rangerboy,
    I think I'm a little closer to solving our problem. I started thinking it might be caused by the distributor or ignition coil--I found out I have a distributorless ignitions system(I think yours does as well?) so I replaced the coil--It didn't fix it; but, the wiring harness that goes into the side of the coil pack maybe the problem... I'm thinking the problem is electrical because when I tested to see if the coil was bad, or had become sesitive to water (dew, rain, humidity, etc.) I sprayed water in the engine compartment as a test(shielding the battery and distribution box)... As soon as I did this it had the same problems starting each time I wet the engine (I then dried it and reperformed the test). As I began to think out the problem, the starter works and gets power, but the coil pack doesn't always have power; so, I think the wiring between the two has shorted out with age. Later I am going to try wiggling the wires with the engine running to see if it has a short and dies. What do you think?
  • 4banger44banger4 Member Posts: 3
    Hi I am a new ranger owner 99 2.5 5speed with 77k the check engine light came on is there a way to clear codes without scan tool can I use a obdII scanner from pep boys to read and clear codes or is this basicaly a dealer only thing also any common problems that turn light on any help is geat just got it last week from a used car dealer I know but I was in a bind
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    4Liter motors usually do not ping. 3Liter motors do, and little can be done about it.

    4L pinging is caused many times by loose lower intake manifold bolts. Tightem then up. Many times the motor will also be using oil. Tightening bolts may reduce oil usage.

    Clean the MAF sensor (or replace it) might also help.

    White smoke and vanishing transmission fluid indicated a vacuum modulator valve is bad - a hole in the diaphram and tranny fluid is being pulled up the vacuum hose and burned in the engine. The valve is on the transmission, right side, up high. One bolt usually holds it on, with a rubber and steel vacuum line going to it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Removing the battery negative cable for a couple minutes will probably reset the error code.

    Of course, if there is a problem, driving the vehicle a short distance usually re-sets the 'check engine' light.

    Get it fixed.

    Autozone, etc can scan ODBII.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Are you running the air conditioner? If so, immediately after shutting the motor down, the AC system will balance the pressure across the entire system. When this is happening, with high pressure moving to lower pressure, you will be able to hear hiss and gurgles for about a minute or less.

    If you have air in the cooling system, this can also cause knocks, gurgles, hisses, etc. If your radiator cap is functioning correctly, this air should be expelled and water pulled back into the motor to replace the air. When I drained, flushed, refilled antifreeze in my 94 4L, it never had any problem purging air from the system. I just checked the level of antifeeze in the overflow bottle after a few days and topped it off if needed. If you do not have antifreeze in the overflow, then you probably have air in the radiator and rest of the system.

    4L motors of about your year are known for a 'marbles in tin can' noise while at idle. I've read lots of complaints about this, with never hearing a definitive cause of the noise. It seems like lots of them did this, many with only a very few miles on them, and Ford did nothing about it. And I've not known of many real failures from the noise.

    Of course, you might have a rod bearing knocking and are about to need a motor rebuild.....
  • alanbnalanbn Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just bougth a used Ranger year 2000. I thought the battery was weak because it would go dead on me if I left it for more than a day or 2. I replaced the battery and it is doing the same thing. Something seems to be draining the battery... :confuse:
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I read on this site about others getting this DPFE error code on their Rangers. My CHECK ENGINE lite came on so I took it to A Z and Auto Zone read the codes for me and said the DPFE sensor was the problem. This is the 3.0L V6 Flexfuel engine.
    I removed the sensor, and blew the lines out going back to the EGR main tube. They were clear. I removed the ground cable from the battery to reset the CPU. I sprayed carb cleaner into the inlet tubes of the sensor and let it soak a few minutes while shaking it around a bit. Then I drained the fluid out of the sensor and used a small air compressor to blow the chambers dry. I re-installed the sensor, connected the tubes and started the truck up for a test run. NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LITE!! It looks like this issue is resolved for now.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Yes, any obdII scanner will read the codes and clear them. Really too many variables to try to get into posting common codes. After you read them, post them here and someone should be able to offer advice.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    junktruck,
    I've been getting a humming sound under the hood. I'm going to clean/and or change my idle air control unit. I don't know if this could cause my truck not to start on occasion or not! We'll find out! :confuse:
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    that little 'fix' on the DPFE sensor didn't last to long. The engine still had that little roughness at 40mph and a bit of a rough idle.

    Ended up having to replace the metal DPFE sensor with the newer version plastic model to the tune of $100. Couldn't get it anywhere except the FORD dealer. Wow that's a racket, a little plastic part for $100. Well if it fixes the problem....I guess its worth it!?
  • brently1brently1 Member Posts: 9
    What would cause a rod bearing to fail a low kilometres? I have babied it when it comes to oil changes? would i find and evidence in the oil during an oil change? anyway of finding if it is an actual rod bearing?

    Thanks

    Brent
  • karl17karl17 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 92 ranger 3.0 auto w/od. only 57000 miles its a great truck. but it wont let me go over 80mph 4000 rpm. in 3rd or/od. cruising at 70 in /od it wont hold speed going up smallest hill. it will redline first two gears 5600 rpm.
    no codes. it runs good . just not at highway speeds. any ideas. thanks in advanced karl17
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not enough of an experienced 'hands on' mechanic to help with diagnoising a rod bearing failure. Except, I would think that if this is the problem, it would rapidly get worse. A good mechanic, not one that just changes brakes and plugs, might be able to tell you if it is a rod bearing.

    I still think it might be the mysterous 'marble rattles' from this generation of 4L Rangers....
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Somewhere in the low or mid 80's is where the speed governor kicks in. It's a truck, it isn't designed to go fast.

    Do you have oversized tires on it? If so, this will reduce your top speed and reduce your torque also, which is what you are seeing.
  • 4banger44banger4 Member Posts: 3
    I had the codes read on my 99 cyl 5 speed an it was egr flow the guy at advance told me to clean the tube from egr to throttle I did this but the light came back today I found the sensor with 2 tubes from the exh manifold tube to egr (poor discription) the bracket for this sensor was broken and sensor was hanging upside down the sensor has an arrow labled up finaly my question could this sensor being upside down cause a faulse reading and turn the check engine light on? :confuse:
  • karl17karl17 Member Posts: 2
    no original sizes 215/70/14 its my wifes truck.
    i just hate driving it cause you got to keep your foot in it to cruise the interstate. i have 97 aerostar will run up to 95 easy not quite 100 wide open. its doing 5100 rpm at about 95.
  • jjbeano1jjbeano1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I have a 92 Ranger XLT. Today it took me about 15 minutes to actually start, and tonight I tried it again, but it did not start (gave up after 5 mins). This problem seems as though it's been building up. Started months ago, but it's unreasonably bad now.
    This is what happens:

    Turn the key to first position
    Dashboard lights come on (everything ok)
    Push key forward to start truck
    Hear ONE click
    Dashboard lights still on, but engine will not crank

    Used to only take about 5 - 10 turns of the key before the engine would actually crank. When it DOES start to crank, no problem. Engine starts right up, with a little gas it idles fine, and don't have to worry about anything else.

    Today it literally took me about 15 minutes of turning the key to get the engine to start cranking. As soon as it cranked, truck started up fine. What is preventing the engine from getting to the crank stage?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Had identical problem with my '83 Toyota pickup. Turned out the carbon contact brushes in the starter motor got oil on them (the engine had an oil leak, coating the engine compartment with oil film) which over time resulted in them no longer making contact with the commutator contacts. Try tapping the starter motor with a hammer to see if that has any effect. Solution is to replace the starter motor (tried replacing the carbon brushes and filing down the commutator contacts, but problem returned after a short while). Problem could also be something else but the starter motor is a likely culprit.

    (Years later got another oil leak in the engine compartment which wasn't fixed in a timely manner and as a result had to replace the alternator. Moral: fix those oil leaks!!)
  • tuneman62tuneman62 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Ranger 4X4. I've noticed a roaring noise (sounds like a tire on pavement) when turning to left only. I inspected the tires and moved them all around but it didn't stop. Is there anything else I might check???
    Thanks!
  • ranger01driverranger01driver Member Posts: 1
    so here is my problem, i have a 2001 ranger 4.0 4x4 and my check engine like came on. well what happens is when my engine is idling, it revs to 1000 rpms then back to 500 rpm and it keeps repeating that, it doesnt do it when i drive just when im stopped, what is wrong
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Idle Air Control valve.

    It might be cleaned. On older 4L, it's a silver and black cylinder on left side of motor on upper intake, about middle of the motor. It has wires into it.

    Remove bolts, careful with the gasket under it. It's a mechanical valve (for air bleeding into intake) with an electric solnoid on the other end.

    The valve gets carboned up. It can be CAREFULLY cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT GET CARB CLEANER INTO THE electrical end, it will eat the windings up.

    If it cannot be cleaned, a new one can be bought aftermarket.

    I would also check the throttle valve to see if it is sticking.

    Also clean the MAF sensor. It is in the big black tube that goes between the air cleaner and the intake. Takes a special tool to remove the screws, or vicegrips. CAREFULLY clean with ELECTRICAL cleaner - the very fine wires inside the MAF sensor. Do not use q-tip or such, the wire/s is very fine and you may break them.

    Also, the older 4L (156HP) needs the lower intake bolts tighten occassionally, this causes pinging and oil usage.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You have battery, battery cables, starter solnoid, and/or starter motor problems.

    Why allow this to go on so long? When it takes this many multiple 'trys' to crank the motor, you are just asking to be stranded somewhere.

    It's probably the solnoid. But could also be one or more of the others also.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    YES, this sensor is position sensitive! It needs to be mounted in the orientation prescribed to work properly. My guess is...it has failed internally. Is the metal type or the black plastic type? The metal ones tend to fail and FORD came up with an 'improved' version made of plastic. This is what it took to fix my 2000 Ranger.
  • rangerograngerog Member Posts: 1
    i also had this problem. when i took off the idle air control valve, it didn't have a gasket between it and the housing. inside there is a spring and it was caked up with carbon. i used carb cleaner to get rid most of the carbon and got a small brush inside and got the rest. the spring was frozen in place. with the help of a large screw driver handle i gave it some whacks and freed it up. i sprayed some WD 40 on the spring and put it all back together and fried up the motor. it runs just like it use, very smooth. before this all started, i would hear a LOUD humming sound coming from under the hood. i couldn't figure out where it was coming from. at first, i thought it was near the air cleaner or the tube leading up to throtle body.my friend told me it was the idle air control valve.from the dealer they cost $111.60, for the generic brand $50 to $89. this is in L.A.,CA
  • dona1speeddona1speed Member Posts: 1
    on these rangers there is a clutch safety switch where you have to push in the clutch to start it, there is a possibility that it is going bad also the ignition switch itself (on the column)may be out of alignment..
  • danf2danf2 Member Posts: 5
    I inserted my grease needle into the little hole on the front Universal Joint and enptied a whole small tube of grease into it. Looks like a bottonless pit. Whats with that?

    Also how do you lube the rear U joint? Don't see a hole for the rear joint.
  • mpwbwmpwbw Member Posts: 7
    I used to believe that crap too. Yes, owners do themselves in, but I had to write a response based on your comments (that were probably not meant harshly). I have a v6 4.0 liter extended cab Ranger 04'. It has highway miles (approx. 27,000) I have been feely some of the same complaints as the users posted.

    I have always driven trucks, never cars -- so I can attest to how trucks are supposed to run. My 1st pickup was a 97' Ranger regular cab purchased used a t 10,000 miles. Not a bad vehicle -- despite the small 4 cylinder. Age began taking its toll at 70,000 miles. All of a sudden I needed brake work, muffler work, tranny work (radiator had sprung a leak and mixed with the tranny fluid). I got rid of that to lease an 02' extended cab 4*2, which wasn't too bad of a truck. I had vibration in the leg area and tranny didn't shift right -- seemed to go through fluid, but leak was never detected. Even had the tranny fluid changed before turning it in at 36,000 miles. I was considering purchasing the vehicle. Now I'm glad I didn't. Now I drive a leased 04' 4*4 and my problems are worse. I intermittingly get a dead right leg due to the vehicle not having a smooth ride. I have had tranny problems again with fluid seems to disappear. I haven't had a leak, but shifting is harsh (and is getting worse). It seems stuck in first gear -- and it's an automatic. I heard of some users saying their is pressure loss in this vehicle and a replaced part for $900 will fix it. I, was thinking of buying this vehicle, but I don't think so. I had no idea there were this many problems with the Rangers, and how can they be so popular. I guess the old saying is true -- you get what you pay for. On the flip side one of the reasons I want to get rid of this is the gas mileage. My 02' got 20 mpg per highway. This gets 18.5 -- which doesn't seem too bad. No tonneau cover -- no excessive speeds or special gas. For maintaining highway speeds I expected a little more. I'm also have braking trouble. Shouldn't with low miles. Last, I have heard a thump when starting up. Can't quite put a finger on it. I think my 02' was like that, but not as frequent.
    Other than that, I don't know what I would get if I got rid of this. I like the look of the smaller trucks, and all the manufacturers are pumping out vehicles with problems now adays.
  • ed420ed420 Member Posts: 1
    ive got a v6 3.0 2wd ranger with the check engine light on. the codes it reads are p1443-manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls and p0401-egr flow insufficient.
    i've replaced the egr valve a couple months ago and it still reads them codes.
    also.. i have to wait for the check engine light to come on before the truck starts.. it cranks and everything.. it just wont start til that light comes on.. and sometimes it takes up to 10 minutes... any answers to this problem??
  • danf2danf2 Member Posts: 5
    I am replying to my own question because I want to see how this works, but I still don't know where all that grease went, or if I should keep squirting more into that little hole in my front U-Joint. Also I still don't know how to grease the rear U-Joint!
  • mpwbwmpwbw Member Posts: 7
    Two questions please:

    What exactly does the EGR sensor do? Mine is a lease and I'm possibly interested in purchasing the vehicle cause the miles are low 27,000 highway on an 04' 4*4 extended cab V6 4.0 liter.

    I too think I have a problem with the driveshaft. My complaints are to the "T" with other posts. It seems that I am stuck in 1st gear with an automatic. It is sporatically sluggish, and when I push the gas my foot gets tired -- the truck doesn't want to go.

    My previous truck was an 02' 4*2 that had the same problem, but I didn't know what I now know, and I got rid of it. Both trucks were taken to the dealer -- I was complaining of tranny fluid loss, but a leak was never discovered. Then with this one the dipstick on a couple of occasions was nearly dry. I added some Mercon fluid, but when I took it back to the dealer they said it was overflowed. They took some out. I even had a tranny flush because in the process Ford had put a dye in the fluid to see if they could spot a problem. They said it wouldn't hurt the vehicle. I then got a recall notice from Ford saying that my vehicle had the wrong mixture from the factory and an additive was added. All in all do you think all my tranny problems are related? What can cause me to lose fluid? It even seemed a little burnt, but I have always driven Rangers and my mechanic told me not to worry Ford's all run a little hot, and that is why regular maintenance is crucial -- esp. the tranny. Every 30,000 I should have faithfully replaced the filter and fluid. What do you think? Last, I too have experienced a thump when I start my vehicle. It does seem to come from the rear. What could this be? Thanks in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Most UJoints from the factory are sealed and have NO grease zerks. Usually, only replacement UJoints have a grease zerk. And, one pump from a hand grease gun, two at the very most, is all a UJoint needs for grease. More, and you will probably blow the seal.

    If you have a 'hole', then a grease zerk has come out.

    But, I don't think any of the above discussion really pertains to you. I don't think you are dealing with a UJoint. I think you have found a hole on the front 'slip joint' of the drive shaft. It is a splined joint where the front of the driveshaft slides into the tailshaft of the transmission. And, this slip joint can hold a lot of grease. A lot may not be needed, because it will just move out of the slip joint and be slung up on the vehicle and down on the road. If this is what your are greasing, you can probably stop after putting a lot in it. You probably haven't hurt a slip joint, since it does not have a seal at the rear, and overfilling will just come out as I said.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I hope I don't insult you, but I'm not sure you seem very knowledgable about what you are doing.

    First, are you checking the tranny fluid the way the manual says it is to be checked? Usually, this is after driving and warming the vehicle up, with the tranny in park and the motor idleing. Not cold or not hot after a lengthly drive in hot summer weather - both may give bad readings. But, some vehicles are checked with the motor off.

    If you did not check the fluid the correct way, the reading could be 'off' a great deal.

    If you are losing tranny fluid, the main 2 ways I know about are 1) A leak. You should see this. Or, 2) The vacumn modulator has a busted diaphram and tranny fluid is being sucked up its vacumn line and burned in the motor. This usually only happens on older vehicles. A vacumn modulator usually does not give much trouble.

    And, most important, this 2 year old truck with 27,000 miles is still under warranty. Why are you messing around with it? If you have tranny fluid loss, 'thumps', and 'stuck in 1st gear' - take it to a dealer, have all these problems documented on a warranty repair and make Ford fix them.

    I owned an older 4L, and have test driven the new OHC 4L, and by no means did these motors feel like it was 'stuck in first gear'. (Or, do you mean it will not up-shift to second? If so, you really need to have Ford work on it, this sounds like a tranny problem.)

    And, if it is having tranny problems, why would you even consider buying it at the end of the lease? Getting rid of a questionable vehicle is one of the better reason to have a lease in the first place.
  • ironman60ironman60 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having a very hard time also bleeding the clutch on a 96 ford ranger. With the cap off the master and the bleeder valve is opened how long should it take for slave to fill? Any suggestions?
  • 94hopes94hopes Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 ranger with the 4.0. My therrmostat went, and I delayed in changing it(stupid). So, i was driving and i started to smell burning antifreeze. I pulled into a nearby gas station to put some in to get me home. When i open it the stuff that came out was rust colored. I put a jug in and went home. After changing the thermostat, and flushing the system, it still is running bad and i am getting a rediculous ammount of smoke from the exhaust, not to mention my loss of power. I have no idea what is wrong, and causing this. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • mpwbwmpwbw Member Posts: 7
    You are absolutely correct. I got rid of my 02' because I felt there was something wrong. My 04' is experiencing the same type of problems.

    In response to not knowing how to check tranny fluid, I don't take offense, but I do know how to check it. I leave the vehicle on not on a cold start nor after a lengthy trip, and I pull the dip stick up. I also do not mess around with my vehicle. I took it into Ford three or four times in six months. They treated me fairly, but couldn't find a problem. As I said in my first post they added the dye to try and find if and where it was leaking. If it is not leaking then it is burning. However, it does not appear like it is burning, rather disappearing. You read the posts too. It could be a small fix, which would make the vehicle very nice to own. This isn't a bad vehicle -- just not a great one. Also, I test drove the two vehicles before I got them. Noone can tell when a vehicle has 6 miles on it how it will feel when it has 26,000. This is what a forum is about. People display their problems and others "help" or describe theirs. The problem with the vehicle in first gear is that it just literally started. The automatic won't upshift to second gear. I have an appointment with the dealer. I appreciate the feedback.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Are you saying you overheated the truck?

    If so, you possibly have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Either is pretty bad, with the cracked head much worse of course. Either might cause 'smoke', which is water/antifreeze getting into the cylinder and 'burning'.
  • bruce24bruce24 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Ranger extended cab with only 10k miles on it. While driving in the rain and using the wipers, all of a sudden they stopped working. In addition, I then noticed that the speedometer wasn't working and the dome lite wouldn't come on either.

    I stopped and checked all the fuses on the side of the dash board and all the fuses in the engine compartment and they are all GOOD. I thought I might have smelled burning wiresm but it soon went away and everything else works fine.

    I can't see the relationship between these things since they would be on different fuses. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to start?

    Thanks!
  • abbyv3abbyv3 Member Posts: 1
    Help, please. My brother is working on our Dad's '89 Ford Ranger. They have replaced the head, which had tiny cracks in it, and it still won't start. Then he found some wire with the insulation gone and fixed that.

    He can't retrieve any codes out of the computer module. He has used a code scanner and a multi-meter. We know this is probably a silly question, but he would like to triple-check himself before any more money is spent on this vehicle. I'm assuming this means the computer module is bad. Is this correct?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Abby
  • bruce24bruce24 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Ranger splash with the 4 liter engine./ While driving the other day in the rain, the wipers stopped working and I then noticed that the speedometer and odometer stopped working also. I then noticed the dome light would not come on. I think I smelled smoke and ALL the fuses test good. They must have some lousy design for all this to happen at once and the fuses not blow. :mad:
  • danf2danf2 Member Posts: 5
    I WOULD LIKE TO PUT NEW FLUID IN MY POWER STEERING ON MY 2000 Ranger, 3.0.

    Where is the best place to drain it( What line to loosen?) and is there anything in particular to be careful about?
    Thanks, Dan
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My opinion: I would not open it up to just replace the fluid. The fluid is a non-maintenance item, and the pump seals will usually fail at 10 years, 150,000 miles or so anyway and you will be replacing the whole pump.

    If you still want different fluid in there, buy the cheapest turkey baster you can find and suction all you can get out of the fill hole, and refill. This will probably get 60%+ of the fluid out. Start it up for a couple minutes and have another go with the baster - this will further dilute the old fluid when you add more new.

    Or, get a couple of feet of small plastic clear tubing, hold it in a U shape and fill with new fluid using a small funnel. Cork one end, then quickly stick the other end into the fill tube, to the bottom. Put the corked end lower, into a container, and syphon the fluid out.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    We just bought a 2001 Ranger XL short bed for my teenage son. A guy at work has one just like it. I asked him what kind of mpg he got and he said his 2.3L gets 25mpg. I said wait a second. Ours has a 2.5L engine. So we opened the hood on his and sure enough his has a different engine all together. Ours has 8 spark plugs, two for each cylinder one on each side of the head. His has four plugs down the center and looks like a Mazda engine. When did this change occur? :confuse:
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Midway in the 2001 model year they replaced the 2.5L SOHC 4cyl engine (commonly referred to as the lima as it was manufactured in lima Mexico) with the 2.3L DOHC 4cyl engine (commonly referred to as the duratec due to its dual overhead cam). You have the lima, your friend has the duratec. Both are good engines. :shades:
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    Thanks!
  • martinlwmartinlw Member Posts: 7
    Does Ford have any bumper restoration products that would match the original color of my 2001 Ranger's bumpers? I'd rather not use a generic product that will dye the bumpers a true black.
  • danf2danf2 Member Posts: 5
    OK, I got the little syphon thingy and siphoned all the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and refilled it. In fact I did this 3 times and used up one bottle of power steering fluid. This brings me to the next question. Why is the stuff I am siphoning out "RED" and the stuff in the Prestone power steering bottle that says "For all Ford and General Motors products",(CLEAR!)
    Should the old stuff thats been in there for 6 years be Red? Does it have to be replaced by "Motorcraft" The Prestone fluid is clear. Is it OK to mix them?
    Thanks, Dan
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Did you check your manual?

    (Jee, how many times have I written that???)

    Some power steerings use transmission fluid, which is red.

    Some use a unique fluid.

    'General purpose' fluid might be????????

    20/20 hindsight - if you were going to all this trouble, you sure should have checked the manual and used what they specified.

    Ok, power steering is usually forgiving about what you mix into them. You will probably be ok.
  • carvin5stringcarvin5string Member Posts: 1
    Where do I start troubleshooting a none-working fuel gauge and temp guage?
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