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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • texcoptexcop Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to what caused this problem? My '94 Mazda did the exact same thing tonight.
  • texcoptexcop Member Posts: 2
    Last night I got in my truck and noticed that my ABS light was flashing (15 times). I also had no dash lights. I read post #1940 where someone else was experiencing this same problem. One thing they had noticed was that they had no tail lights. Same is now true for me. Does anyone have an idea of what is wrong? I'd like to fix the problem myself if it's possible.

    Any help appreciated,
    Jason
  • rwl1953rwl1953 Member Posts: 4
    I have been driving my father in laws 87 Ford Ranger after the truck sat for a while. I replaced the tires, belts, and brakes. I had planned to replace the plugs and the plug wires. I also had the oil changed in it. After driving it around town on short trips- 5 to 8 miles I took it to the next town over about 15 miles. Speeds up to 65 miles an hour. Started to hear the lifters clicking after 14 or 15 miles. Looked down and I had no oil pressure and truck was heating up. Parked the truck immediately at my brothers house. Let it sit for about 15 minutes. I started it and the oil pressure was still not there and there was the clicking noise. Turned it off and got a ride home. Left the truck with my brother and he called about ten minutes ago after truck had sat there all day and said he cranked it and the pressure came up fine. Ran it about 5 minutes on idle and the noise started again and the pressure started to go down. Is this an oil pump problem or maybe engine sludge since the truck sat for a while?

    Thanks

    RWL
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Some Rangers of about this age, and 4 cylinder (I think) have a strange problem.

    The gasket on the oil pan deteriates and pieces of it fall apart into the inside of the oil pan. After enough pieces get in there, the pieces will clog the opening or screen for the oil pump pickup. Enough to significantly slow down the oil flow and cause the problem you see.

    The oil pan needs to be dropped and the crap cleaned off the oil pump pickup. And a new gasket of course. Or, I have heard about a process where people have tried to pump large amount of kerosene or some such solvent into the oil drain hole and attempt to wash out the gasket pieces.

    I would try to drop the oil pan. I think it can be done on a 4 banger without pulling the engine. On V6's I think the motor has to be pulled, or at least lifted significantly.

    Check back and tell us what you find out....
  • usdsk8er135usdsk8er135 Member Posts: 1
    i drive a 1990 Ford Ranger and i have had it for about 3 months. today i was drivin it and all of a sudden the tach shot up to 5000 RPM and then dropped until it read 0 RMP's. the truck will start and drive, but only goes about 10-15 MPH. if someone could help me, that would be fantastic
  • miamistevemiamisteve Member Posts: 3
    I need to remove my headliner in my 1998 Ranger and wondered what the steps are and any advice. I want to reinstall the old one after I run some wiring. All help is appreciated.
  • 03rangersteve03rangersteve Member Posts: 3
    Most of us are getting murdered these days with gas prices and the poor mileage of our 4.0 4WD Rangers. Has anyone swapped out the 4.11 ring and pinion for a 3.55? If so, what were the mpg results and the effects on performance?HTanks, Steve
    G.
  • danf2danf2 Member Posts: 5
    The rubber grease seals or boots or whatever they are called on my 2000 Ford Ranger lower ball joints are cracked and otherwise useless. A guy at the auto parts store told me that some people repair them with silicone rubber, so I gave it a shot I put big blob of rubber around the ball joint and let it dry and then bought a needle adapter for my grease gun and squirted grease in till I saw the rubber expand. Is there better quick fix for these things My Ranger has no zerks, Looks like someone would have come up with a wrap around rubber gadget to fix these cracked rubber seals.
  • cherokeerosecherokeerose Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light keeps coming back on after having it reset and the speedometer just stopped working today on my 2000 Ranger HELP!! :cry:
  • big_bry20big_bry20 Member Posts: 1
    Transmission began acting funny, all of a sudden completely lost clutch and couldn't shift (wouldn't disengage). Hadn't lost any fluid, no linkage problems (as there really are no linkages). But this was only momentary. Went back a couple days later, tried it again, clutch engages and disengages, but the rig shifts somewhat harder and less smooth. Been told the slave cylinder may be shot, and that I may as well junk the truck as it is not an easy fix as most other vehicles would be. Has anybody experienced similar problems? If so, what is it? Advice PLEASE!!!
  • montyanger98montyanger98 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 98 ranger with 78,000 on a 2.5l the motor runs good but the check engine light comes on with a p104 don't know what to do no body knows whats wrong any ideas. when at stop light it revs high and even sometimes stalls :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You should not be taking people's advice that say a 96 Ranger with 110,000 miles might have to be junked because of a bad slave cylinder!!!!

    At 110,000 miles, most Rangers have a lot of miles left in them.

    It's my understanding a hydrolic slave cylinder is difficult to bleed. But I'm sure mechanics do this every week. Find one that knows about working on hydrolic clutches and have them look at it.
  • ajarrelajarrel Member Posts: 1
    When I use my turn signals and signal to turn left I get a loud buzzing and if I push the turn signal all the way to the top it will work. If I use it in the normal way I get this loud buzzing and the turn signal does not work. Any suggestions?
  • muncymuncy Member Posts: 10
    tranmition will not shift into 5th gear over drive, any and all replys greatly welcome, :cry:
  • studedudeusstudedudeus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ranger 4.0 5-speed w/ 48,000 miles. When I had the oil changed at 45,000 miles, I got some free injector cleaner. I put it in at the next fill up. Soon after, I started experiencing a stumble during accelleration. I drive fairly agressively, running up to 5,000 rpm+, expecially when entering the freeway.

    The stumble feels like when you hit the rev limiter. The engine just dies for a moment then tries again. Like the ignition is cut off momentarily. It seems to happen between 3,000 and 5,000 RPM, with the gas peddle depressed about half way. If I back off, it quits, and runs smoothly. IF I floor it, it also quits stumbling and runs up all the way to the rev limiter.

    It has no trouble holding highway speeds. Also doesn't show up if I accelerate normally and keep the revs below 4,000. This also doesn't happen when the engine is cold, only after it warms up.

    I have not had a check engine light. And so I haven't put it on an anylizer.

    A mechanic I know suggested changing the fuel filter, there was no change. I've also checked vacuum hoses, and wire connections. No indication of problems. Finally I disconnected the battery to allow the computer to reset and reboot. The stumble still happens.

    I suspect that some sensor is not working correctly. Any ideas were to look next?
  • scadascada Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem (have 114,653 miles on it)and went to the dealer for the (TSB) white paper on this.
    What you need to do is take the drive shaft out and pull the spline yoke out of the main shaft and re-grease the spline yoke with (I used marine grease) as it will retard moisture better, then put back in and get (2) new clamps for the boot.
    Smooth as a babies behind. This is an issue on all 4X4 and is caused by the old grease not allowing the spline to slip in and out, guess 4X4 have more torque expansion.
    Anyway this will take care of the problem and is cheaper than having the dealer do it, takes about an hour to fix..
    Oh, by the way, the TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded.
  • intenseintense Member Posts: 1
    ethrjock - do not know if you found the answer to your question but let me state my findings.

    The TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded, don't know what number now but maybe you won't need it when I explain.

    The problem is with your shaft spline, the little shaft that hooks to the bigger main shaft, the grease in it gets old and hard and will not let the main shaft expand correctly. You have to unbolt the front spline shaft and pull the spline out and put (marine grease) in it, it has better moisture control, then put the spline shaft back in and put (2) new clamps back on the boot so you won't get water in it, and thats it, takes about and hour and your done.
    Hope this helps....
  • gregadethgregadeth Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a 1988 Ranger 2.3, 4 cylinder w/fuel injection. It's had all its routine maint. performed timely and is in excellent running codition...until recently. Last month I had the TPS sensor replaced when the truck began to idle rough, hesitate during acceleration, stall and lose power. I was amazed at the difference the sensor made! Felt like driving a new truck. However the hesitation returned.

    I was told by several people to use Sea Foam through my brake booster line to clean out the gunk in the engine and all should be fine - I did and now it rund worse than it ever did. It takes a lead foot to get to 30 - 40mph. The hesitation seems to be an all time thing now :confuse: . I can tell it wants to run like a champ, it idles great and has brief moments of smooth acceleration but it's being held back. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Could the Sea foam have made it worse? Any help would be appreciated.
  • mcannmcann Member Posts: 1
    My 95' Rangers goes to 3500 rpms between shifts.

    I really need your help due to severe lack of funds.

    This problem started after i was stuck and have to spin the tires alot to get out. However, this may just be coincidence. The rpms only go up to 3500 when truck is in moving (I can put the clutch in when parked and the rpms do not go up) and come back down after completing the shift. When i come to a stop and put the clutch in the revs again go up to 3500 rpms for about 4 seconds then come back down.

    I've replaced the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) that wasn't it...any suggestions?
  • randyacerandyace Member Posts: 96
    I hope I'm using the correct board; I'm a "crossover" from the Jeep Wrangler discussion as I've just returned to ownership of my beloved Ranger.

    Am asking assistance on the mounting location/hardware/process for a CB antenna on my 06 Ranger. I used a magnet mount for my Jeep, but will likely get the whip type for the Ranger. I'm guessing rear bumper mount is the way to go. Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated, as well as any recommendations for an inexpensive "kit" (antenna/cable/mount bracket).

    My e-mail is public if you'd rather communicate via that method.

    Thanks again!

    Randy
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    For years I've fabricated a mount from 'bar stock' from a hardware store. This is just flat bar steel, about 1/8 inch thick and about 1 1/2 inch wide. It comes in a stock length, usually about 3 feet.

    I buy the fiberglass antenna from Radio Shack which are white and about 4 foot long. They are top loaded, but you really can't see much of the wire, there is just a bulge at the top 6 inches or so.

    This antenna has no real mount, it is made to mount, and ground, through a hole in something, a hole about 1/2 inch across. It does has the spacers and insulator rings, etc.

    Find some mounting bolt for the rear bumper that can be removed. Drill a hole in one end of the bar stock that this bolt will go thru.

    You can then bend the bar stock into about any shape you need to go down, back, left or right, to clear the rear bumper. Bring a couple or so inches out past the rear bumper face. Cut the bar stock again there.

    Drill another hole in this bar stock for the mounting hole needed by the antenna. Assemble the antenna thru this hole.

    Be careful that you can open the tailgate, which means the antenna will be at the left or right corner of the vehicle. The toughest part is getting the cable 'outside' the cab of the truck. Many times there are rubber plugs in the floor of the cab that you can feed the cable thru. Reseal with silicone rubber. Attach the antenna along the frame with plastic ties using brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

    After tieing the antenna into the cable, I usually put a glob of silicone over all these open wires at the base of the antenna.

    One nice thing, this white antenna can be painted body color. It then looks very nice.

    This location isn't the very best for antenna reception, but you seldom talk 'long distane' on a CB anyway. You cannot wash the truck with the large rotating brush auto washs either. Ok, I've forgotten and done this, the antenna usually comes out horizonal rather than vertical.

    I've run this assembly for many years. Using the same bar stock on multiple vechicles. It is very springy and the antenna will bend at speed. I've NEVER had the bar stock break on me. And I mean that I usually end up with 3 or 4 right angle bends between the body bolt and the antenna. And as I said, I put these thru a brush car wash a few times. I have had the center wire break off after a few years where it ties into the antenna. The antenna will flex around and after a few years, the copper wire may not be flexing the same amount, and will break. I usually also take the woven steel shield material on the end and a self tapping screw, and ground it into the bar stock. This screw will usually rust up after a few years even with the silicone around it.

    These look good when painted. A small problem might be walking into it if your garage is dark.

    I don't take my vechicles off road or through brusk. If you do, this mount probably isn't for you.

    The main positive point for this mount, in my opinion, is that you end up with NO holes in the vehicle.
  • randyacerandyace Member Posts: 96
    This is absolutely perfect. I'm truly mechanically challenged, but your step-by-step process even I can follow.

    I'm guessing the bar stock you mentioned can come from a place such as Lowe's or Home Depot?

    Many thanks for your time in answering!

    Randy
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever get your tranny problems fixed? I have a 99 ranger 3.0L and have got the same two codes (P0732 and P1756). Was your o/d light flashing after a hard shift?
    Any help you could provide would be appreciated.
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    I realize it's been a while since you posted this, but did you ever find a solution Mine is doing the same thing. Even my keyless entry only works part time. Any help would be appreciated.
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    Interior vent/defroster/heater fan went out except for highest speed setting, which runs fine. Seems like an odd thing to happen. I would have thought the vent fan would be an all or nothing sort of malfunction. Any thoughts on the cause and/or how to fix would most welcome.
  • fjd44fjd44 Member Posts: 11
    Check out message #2034...
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    thanks, I really appreciate the help. I don't think I would have found that on my own. Didn't occur to me to try the search this discussion option, which would have led me to #2034. I'm grateful for your assistance.
  • fjd44fjd44 Member Posts: 11
    All I did was remember reading an earlier response. Real thanks go to bolivar...
  • rfowlkes81rfowlkes81 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 ranger edge. my problem is that the fuse for the ac blower and driver air bag blows every time i shift ( i have an automatic ) or hit a good bump in the road. i've already taken the column apart and looked for any wires rubbed through and didn't see any. when i put the cluster back in it fixed itself for a couple of days and started doing it again. do you think i have a faulty instrument cluster and need to replace it? i'm lost and any advice would be great. :confuse:
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    I have a '01 Ford Ranger 4-dr SuperCab. V6/4.0L. Great truck and still right now runs fine. I keep getting codes P0171 and P0174 on it lately though. I tried spraying down the MAF sensor with some non-residue, quick dry, elecrical cleaner, but didn't help. After about 15miles it came back on with the same codes again. Is this typically the MAF sensor that needs replaced or is their something else that I haven't found yet? Any help/advice would be great!
    Thanks,
    kimble989
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    Hey,
    I saw your posting is from a month ago...haven't been on here much lately, but if this helps...
    I had a Dodge Dakota doing the same thing about 3yrs ago. Would rev very high then not go over 15mph. I thought I had lost my transmission, but it turned out to be my catylitic converter had dropped a chunk of "something" inside itself and clogged the venting process. After a lift on the tow truck the piece of "something" fell free and the truck ran fine. Tow guy didn't believe me, I think he thought I just wanted to be towed and pay him $50!
    Kimble989
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My '95 Ranger doesn't want to start maybe 1 in 10 times. I'll mess around with the relays and other things on the driver's side. A short time later it will start fine. I don't know if it might be a solenoid or what? It's electrical because sometimes when it's turning over and doesn't start the power door locks will engage and disengage? Has me stumped! :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is it cranking and not starting?

    If so, turn key ON without starting and listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for a few seconds.

    If it doesn't start, I would check the fuel pump relay. Then, the pump itself might be going out.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Yeah, it's cranking but doesn't start. I found out yesterday whenever I would jiggle the power distribution box it would start. I had the truck taken to the ford shop not too long ago and I think they had checked my relays. Maybe, the fuel pump relay was just in the process of getting bad. I don't know if it could be something in the wiring maybe in that area or not. Really strange when the power locks go on and off between trying to start. Has me baffled! Which relay is the fuel pump relay I've lost my owner's manual.
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    There are apparently many things that can give you these codes (lean fuel mix bank one and bank two). First could be the MAF sensor, which you can clean by taking apart the vent going to the air filter and spraying non-residue, fast-drying electrical cleaner on the fine wires of the sensor.
    But what ended up fixing my truck is both O2 sensors were bad. Just thought I'd let someone else know what all to begin checking if you get these codes.
  • frieberg44frieberg44 Member Posts: 33
    This is just for the good of the order. I experienced the infamous "ABS light" that wouldn't go off. This is often due to a failed rear axle sensor that works by magnetic inductance off of the ring gear of the differential. This light being on means that the ABS braking system has been disabled, pending a repair. I obtained the ABS sensor from my Ford dealer (about 25 bucks). I gambled that this in fact was the problem (and, voila, it WAS indeed !). This sensor is located on the very top of the rear differential, held by a single 10 mm bolt. Because I don't have a lift, it was easier for me to get access to it by removing the right rear wheel (I was then able to get my left arm through the frame/spring area to help position the ratchet). First, disconnect the connector (DO NOT damage the wiring !), then remove the bolt (first soak it with WD-40). Then, GENTLY insert a thin pry bar under the molded plastic flange on the sensor, and pry up (on both sides if you can). It will resist coming out due to an integral O-ring seal. It should then pop out. Simply reverse the procedure, and your ABS system will hopefully be back online ! This will save you about a 100 dollar bill from your Ford dealer.
  • pc2368pc2368 Member Posts: 1
    My friends and I have had this problem. Spray WD-40 in the latch on the door. The sensor gets sticky and the WD-40 will free it. I haven't had the problem in 2 years after applying it.
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Member Posts: 7
    I have a '97 ranger, with the auto 4x4 hubs. the system is acting up on me. the right front hub will neither engauge, or diengauge completly. because of this, i never use the 4x4 to aviod damaging the front hub, it is still in excellent shape. but if i use it, it bangs and grinds while i turn. i looked at the system. and i have figured out that there is not easy way to find out what the problem is. I DONT NEED TO BUY NEW HUBS. the old ones are fine. i took it to the dealer under warrenty, and they wouldn't fix it because,"There is not a thing wrong with it." this is bull, because the trucks front end shouldn't be flying up into the air when i try to use 4wd and turn at 20 mph without hitting anything that would launch me into the air. The problem is really annoying, because, the one time i had it stuck, i couldn't engauge 4wd, which would have cleared the problem. intead, a murcurey sable pulled me out, now with a damaged pride, i ask you. HOW DO I FIX IT?
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Member Posts: 7
    The relay your looking for is next to the 2 diodes and a resistorit's reather large, and is on the passenger side. it's the only relay without relays next to it. if that helps.
  • randyacerandyace Member Posts: 96
    Hope I'm on the right board; if not, I'm sure someone will re-direct me! ;)

    My 06 Ranger (Sport) has the raised "power dome" hood, with a tapering crease down the middle. I'm thinking of painting that area, both for looks and to break up the all-white hood, in a flat black finish.

    After prepping properly (masking, degreaser, etc), is it necessary to use a fine-grit sandpaper to rough-up the existing paint so the paint I want to apply with adhere better?

    I'm not experienced in paint/body work, but I believe this is something I'm capable of with a bit of advice.

    Thanks to all in advance!

    Randy
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Not familar with automotive paint but have experience with painting speaker enclosures, kitchen appliances, etc.

    For sure you will need to abrade the glassy surface you're planning on painting. If it were me, after carefully masking the area with the shape you want, I'd try some steel wool first (buy different grades of coarseness); if this takes too long to dull the finish, then try sand paper. The tricky part will be near the edge of the masking tape -- you want to roughen-up the paint without deteriorating the line of the masking tape. Vacuum, move vehicle to enclosed area, wait ~half-hour for dust to settle, then while trying to not raise any dust carefully wipe area with a tack cloth (sticky cloth that will remove any remaining dust, available where paint is sold), and spray paint with good quality paint (Rustoleum "Stops Rust" in the white cans works great for speaker enclosures but not sure how well it would stand up to UV and washings; check-out an automotive paint supply house to see if they have anything in an aerosol) (if it were me I'd lean toward a semi-gloss instead of a flat). Remove masking tape right after painting and leave area until paint is dry.

    Also consider taking a photo of the truck with a digital camera and use photoshop to simulate the paint job to see if it seems to look ok (or just get a Ranger brochure and use a pencil or pen to shade the appropriate area).
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Member Posts: 7
    Sand the area, first a dry sand, then a wet sand, down to the primer. Then apply two coats of the paint, let it dry wet, sand again (lightly, not through to primer), and apply one or two more coats.
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Member Posts: 7
    Bum For a reply.
  • kimble989kimble989 Member Posts: 14
    Somebody throw some idea's my way this time please!!
    I took my '01 V6/4.0L SOHC Ranger to a local service shop. He used the ol' snap on to read what was going on with my check engine light. Got the codes above for lean fuel mix. So, we replaced both 02 sensors. Cleared the codes and hoped for the best. No change, light came back after roughly 22miles. It actually is running worse now than before. It idled very low and rough for a sec then stalled on me twice while going thru a drive-thru.
    I just purchased an MAF sensor and will be replacing that myself when it comes in(don't trust the mechanic that much if it isn't Ford itself...but very expensive!).
    Is there anything else this may be? The truck runs fine once going and is 90% running good at idle, but runs rough and stalls once in a while.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    :cry::cry::cry::cry:
  • randyacerandyace Member Posts: 96
    Many thanks for the two answers I received. Why didn't I think of using photoshop and take a picture first??? :confuse:

    Randy
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    If I'm sitting at my driver's seat looking forward. The power distribution box is on the driver's side in front of me. I've got three square relays together in a cluster. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat. I went to an auto parts store and tried to figure out which relay was which, but there was no material that showed this. The guy told me to swap relays around when it doesn't start to determine which one is bad. I don't know if these relays are the same or not they have different numbers on them. Can I do this? These relays do look exactly the same except for the last four numbers. I also found out that there is an anti-theft relay. I have a feeling that this might be what's causing the problem instead of a fuel pump relay. Again the vehicle turns over but doesn't start at times. The door locks will engage and disengage when it's trying to start. I've been jiggling and messing with the relays and power distribution box and then the truck will eventually start. There is also a starter relay which is mounted to the wall of the engine compartment. The guy at the auto parts store seemed to think that this wasn't it if it would turn over like it does. Has me baffled! :confuse:
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Member Posts: 7
    DONT MESS AROUND WITH THE RELAYS! dont mean to yell, but would you stick a 100 watt light bulb in a 60 watt socet? (if you answered yes, OMG) Here is what you described. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and "one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat" thats the one, in quotes. Give me that number, and i will cross refence it to mine.
  • cniemanncniemann Member Posts: 9
    I run just a stock Radio Shack magnetic mount antenna on the roof just above the roof light and have good luck there.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Hey I think they are the same kind of relays! Napa has the same part listed for the anti-theft and fuel pump relays. The numbers on the relays starting with the one toward the front on the left is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1603, the one immediately to it's right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1604, and the one closest to the driver on the right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1559. When I got done with my earlier post I went to drive off and the truck wouldn't start. I swapped the two on the right and it fired right up! I still need to figure out which one is which because I'm not sure which is bad or what they are to for that matter??? :D
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    What about replacing all 3?

    Your Ranger should then be ready to give you another 11 years of relay service.
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