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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wildman15pwildman15p Member Posts: 1
    So my ABS light has been on for quite a while but have had no porblems. Recently when i start to brake everything is OK, but as soon as I am coming to a complete stop the ABS kicks in for no apparently reason (even when it is not slippery out). Anyone know what should be replaced or looked at? I am quite mechanically sound so I can fix it. Or is there a way I can actually just take out the whole ABS system all together?
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Yeah, I think that's what I'm going to do. I still would like to know which one is which though to make sure I don't get the parts mixed up.
  • c908c908 Member Posts: 1
    I have a new 2006 ranger sport with 3.0 automatic. I filled up showing 1486 miles on the odometer.This tank just had 86 miles since last fill up.It was all city mostly short distance easy driving and I got 12.91 mpg. Will it get better with more miles? After picking the truck up the first 100 miles was highway and I got 18.5mpg.Its hard to believe a 148 horsepower motor gets this kind of milage. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks!
  • mpwbwmpwbw Member Posts: 7
    That does seem hard to believe. With different fuel additives at different gas stations, it could be a fluke. The additives are to make less pollution, but sometimes gas mileage does suffer. I have noticed that every now and again for no apparent reason, my miles per gallon differs. Also, did you get gas at the same station or same brand?? Try a different one. Last, even the owner's manuel (at least for my 04'Ranger) says the vehicle has a brief break in period of I believe 1,000 miles. They recommend not calculating miles per gallon until then. Hope this helps, and I wouldn't worry -- esp. if the vehicle has otherwise been running fine.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    On the Rangers with ABS only on the rear brakes, low fluid in the master cylinder will cause the ABS light to come on when you brake. It doesn't actually activate the ABS, the light just comes on.

    The low fluid can be because of a leak or just ordinary wear of pads/shoes which move out and more fluid displaces into the system, lowering the level. If this happens, and more fluid is added, fluid will need to be suctioned out while replacing the pads/shoes, otherwise the fluid will overflow the master cylinder when the wheel cylinders are pushed back in for the new pads/shoes.
  • 1999rangerguy1999rangerguy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Ranger 4X4 4.0 V6 and when its warm outside and at idle .. it makes a humming sound from the TPI area, this is driving me crazy ... it's fine when the weather is cool, but every time it warms up I get this humming sound at an idle, can anyone help me on this ???
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    It's your idle control unit. Looks about the size of a film canister and silver colored. It's mounted with two screws and has one wire plug. You can take it off and clean it with carb cleaner. You can also use a brush on it. Be careful there's a gasket in there and don't spray any of the carb cleaner on the electrical end! If it still hums you can get a new one for sixty dollars or so.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Agreed. It's the ICV.
  • 1999rangerguy1999rangerguy Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your help guys .... I'll get out there and take a look at it -- its been driving me crazy for three weeks now -- Thanks again for your info on it

    :-)
  • 1999rangerguy1999rangerguy Member Posts: 3
    I removed and cleaned it and it fixed the problem, Thank you so much for your help, it was driving me crazy LOL
    its people like you that makes this forum worth coming to.
    again, Thank you so much for your help in fixing my problem
  • skillet007skillet007 Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Ranger has had no problems until recently. It has started to have a rough idle. And it idles kinda slow too. Also, when I put it in first and start to take off, it acts real sluggish, but after it gets to the 10 mph mark, it will suddenly go. This happens through all the gears exept in 4th and 5th where it has almost no acceleration whatsoever. If any of you have an idea- ive tried taking it to a garage- please help!
    Skillet007
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Give it fresh plug wires and plugs, if they have 40-50,000 miles on them. Clean the MAF. Tighten the intake manifold bolts.
  • estherfestherf Member Posts: 2
    I also have a Ranger that has had the "check engine" light on since it only had 595 miles on the clock (according to the paperwork in the glove compartment; I am the third owner)It now has 173000 miles, and the light has been on the whole time. Is this a common Ranger thing? Should I get it fixed if I want to sell it? Cheers!
  • estherfestherf Member Posts: 2
    My Ranger (97 model XL 4.0L) has developed an intermittent squeak when it is sitting idling, or moving slowly. Had the serpentine belt replaced as I thought that it was a slipping belt sound, but it changed the sound but didnt eliminate it. It's High pitched squeak that will happen for about 10 second every minute, and I cant for the life of me tell exactly where it is originating. Any ideas? Oh, the truck has 173000 miles, and has only ever had basic servicing done on it.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I don't think it's anything major as long as it's on steady and not flashing.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A 'check engine light' means 'check the error codes that have been set'.

    I've never known of one that 'blinks'. They are on or off.

    But actually, why worry now after 170,000+ miles.
  • dogpile50dogpile50 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me if a 96 transmission will fit a 93 ranger. both were match up to a 2.3L engine.I need to change my old 93 trany because of the whinning bearings are going to lockup one day and I can't stand the whine while driving it.--both are 5 speeds
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    took my 2000 ranger in for new pads and shoes. Was told everything was corroded and needed to be replaced(calipers and other assorted hardware as well as pads). Shop did think they could save the rotors and drums. Quoted me $700. Is this reasonable? The truck was driven for five years in Chicago winters, but it boggles my mind that everything is shot, particularly on a five year old vehicle.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Seems expensive to me! :>0
  • jthug69420jthug69420 Member Posts: 1
    Ok my gas gauge in my 1990 Ford Ranger STX doesn't work right. The needle on my gas gauge is at the line before the E when the truck is not running but when i turn the key on and start the truck up the needle goes down to E but its not really empty. I don't when to put gas in thats why i lose money so fast cause i ran out of gas one time already idk when to put gas in because my gas gauge doesn't work right. Does anyone have a solution to this?
  • yetti8yetti8 Member Posts: 7
    i was thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • yetti8yetti8 Member Posts: 7
    i am thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • yetti8yetti8 Member Posts: 7
    i am thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • commonkocommonko Member Posts: 4
    OK..so heres the situation. Im in the Army, and my neighbor is deploying to Iraq in 4 days. He has a 2001 Ranger Edge that he will sell me for $1000. 75000 miles. The problem is, there is a loud knocking when the the truck is running. We think it is a piston rod but not sure. We are over here in Hawaii, so everything is a little more expensive, but on average, how much should this cost to repair? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  • billybix76billybix76 Member Posts: 1
    Run away! Can you say rip-off? there is no way a 5 year old vehicle needs a complete replace of all brake components. there may be some corrosion of tubes and seals on the calipers. but you must get a second or even a third quote and NOT from their "recommended" shops...
  • planecrazy69planecrazy69 Member Posts: 1
    2.3L 5 sd, 196K miles. This is a new one to me. The other day while accelerating onto the freeway my engine bogged way down. I couldn't get any speed increase and a noticeable low drone. After about 20 seconds it just released and started running fine, then it did it again and released again. After that was fine until the next morning when it happened again. I have changed the usual tune-up parts, fuel filter and the muffler. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it'll be the price of a new engine or used engine installed.

    This is a close call, because running well the truck is worth maybe $6,000.

    Generally if there's a bad knock you haven't got much choice---it's not as simple as a valve job.

    I figure you'll be in the hole minimum $1,500 (old used engine found locally, installed by shade tree mechanic) to $4,000++ (remanufactured engine) + whatever shipping costs.
  • commonkocommonko Member Posts: 4
    WOW...theta a little too pricey. So even though it still cranks I would have to get a whole new block? I might have to reconsider.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if it's a real KNOCK...you have a collapsed piston or a bad rod or main bearing. This means internal damage of some sort. it's not a matter of just replacing a few pieces inside, you have to re-bore the cylinders or re-grind the crankshaft.

    You might bring it to a bonafide mechanic and have him/her listen to it...maybe you'll get lucky and it's just a broken crankshaft pulley (this is an external part).
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    What motor is this?

    Just to complicate your life - For 4L (the older 4L motor) Rangers in the years of this truck (2001-199?), many had the 'marbles in a tin can' knock/rattle. Especially noticable at idle, going away off idle.

    In all my major reading on Ranger boards, I never found a definitive cause for this. "Piston slap" was one of the big quesses.

    Ford, in general, resisted doing anything under warranty fro this problem. But some people did get a new motor or short block. With the problem, I think, even coming back in the new motor. I think it is some kind of known design problem that Ford did not want to fix. And they brought out the 208hp OHC 4L, which was a totally different in 2002 (I think), and I never heard the 'marbles in a can' problem with this motor.

    The storm of postings about this problem seemes to have died out a lot. (And, I read far fewer message boards about Rangers lately.) And people were posting that they had had the knocking for 30, 40, 50,000 miles and the motor was still running strong.

    Anyway. If this is the 'old' 4L motor, and the knock goes away off idle, I might give it a try at this low, low price.
  • commonkocommonko Member Posts: 4
    Yea I saw the posts about the marbles. But they mostly concerned up to the 2000 models. Im not to knowledgeable about motors, but it is the 2001 Ranger Edge 2WD 3.0 V6. The knocking is abnormally loud, which concerns me. I haven't seen it run off idle yet, so I'm not really sure if it goes away at all. When I get home Ill check that out. Your right, i wanna jump on it for the price, but i wont be able to afford to drop $3500 for a new block, the labor fees an all.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    What about salvage over there? Rather than a new motor.

    A salvage 3L with 100,000 miles might have quite a few miles left in it.
  • commonkocommonko Member Posts: 4
    I found a guy today who said the same thing. He said he would find a new motor and drop it in for $2200. So I think I might go with this. He said it would probably be cheaper and easier than messing around and trying to find whats knocking and why, then fixing it on top of that. I dunno. What do you think? Hey, thanks for all the assistance. You fellas have been a big help.
  • laredoivanlaredoivan Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 99 ford ranger, however mine is not 4x4, but i was driving and all of a sudden the od light came on and i wouldn't shift past 2nd gear, i found out later it was the speed sensor and not the tranny like was dreading it was. its located on top of the rear axle it took like 15 min. to fix and the part was like a 100.00 bucks.
  • wormburner26wormburner26 Member Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing the EXACT same problem with my '01 Ranger with the 4.0 engine, auto trans. The first time it done this, it blew the ignition fuse (#18) and died on the road. Now, it only blows the driver airbag/fan blower fuse (#2). CAN SOMEONE HELP!!! :confuse:
    Thanks in advance for any info or assistance.
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    i thought the price and what they wanted to do was a bit excessive as well. i ended up going to pep boys, which didn't impress me that much either.

    They replaced the front and rear pads and said the front disks needed to be replaced, but didn't claim the front calipers needed replacing. The other shop told me the calipers were shot but they could machine the rotors.

    So, for pep boys, new front rotors, front and rear brakes, machine back drums-around $330 minus $50 instant rebate and $40-so about $240 mail in rebate. I ended up not getting new parking brake cables at pep boys because they were quoting me $50 per cable(needed 2) plus $150 labor. Told them to forget it-for $250 I'll park the truck in gear(it's a manual transmission). Went to NAPA's website and they were charging less than $20 per cable.

    Despite Pepboys not trying to get me to buy new caliper like the other shop(Just Brakes), I still feel like pepboys was trying to take advantage of me. I'd get one call after another from them telling me I needed this or I needed that. All I wanted were some lousy brake pads and shoes.

    This whole experience ticks me off. I can't tell who to trust and who is trying to scam me. I should have just gone with my first instinct and traded the truck in for a new car. At least then I know that I'm dealing with someone who's trying to take advantage of me.
  • dixiestriper1dixiestriper1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ranger 4L v6 and the a/c in it isnt blowing with the force it used to. it still blows cool but when I have it on high it blows like it's on low. could the air intake be clogged somewhere? any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • moochorbbmoochorbb Member Posts: 16
    i have a 98 ranger 2.5L 4cyl with 72000 miles. my question is its about that time to change the oil again and i was wondering what type of oil should be used....ive been using 10W30 but i was wondering if there was a better weight that i should be using
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I'd stay with what the owners manual recommends which is probably the 10W30 unless you are using the vehicle in extreme climatic conditions.
  • kleetuskleetus Member Posts: 1
    I was in a minor accident, damage limited to front end. I first tried starting my ranger it would but after a little while would cutoff, and each time after that it would stay running for less and less time to where it would not start at all. The engine was also unresponsive to the accelerator. Sounds like a fuel pump problem to me, does it need to be reset?
  • will76will76 Member Posts: 1
    97 ranger, 2.3/5spd...clutch pedal topped out and engine raced as if onlt partially engaged...pumped pedal approx 8,9 times and now it shifts fine? ...clutch going out?..bypassing slave cylinder?...help? :confuse:
  • tony98tony98 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 99 ford ranger 4x4 that will start and run for about 30 secs and cut off and want start again...i found the codes for it which are P0176 fuel compensation sesor and P0122 which is something about TSP pedal position sensor.. can someone help me by telling me where this TSP is located and the best way to replace it....thanks
  • hondo6hondo6 Member Posts: 1
    Lubricate the door latches with white lithium grease. Look for dirt and "stuff" in latch before spraying with grease. A little is all you need.
    Good luck.

    Hondo6
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Member Posts: 4
    Posted this under Pinging by mistake. Truck has 67000 mi-never hit. Recently developed a water leak on the driver's side footwell by the kick panel. Coming in the floor by a seam. Pulled the seat & carpet-did not see any drips with a hose running on the cowl area. Any others experience this?
    Jim
  • ernysueernysue Member Posts: 1
    1987 Ford Ranger King Cab, 5-speed, 128,000 miles. 5 minutes after taking off there is alot of heat coming out from under the dash. Temperature gauge, assuming it still works properly, reads a little above C. Someone said could be the heater core. At present at the highest temp. of thermostats. Radiator has a small leak also. Its becoming hard to start also. Last starter put in has lasted a year to present. Is that normal? Any help, any ideas? Only auto, needs to continue running. Thanks, ernysue
  • starsfanstarsfan Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 94 Ranger. It finally ended up being the mass airflow sensor. It is know to fail in the Ranger. It causes a sluggish acceleration and sometimes dies at idle. I was getting a check engine light, but a check by a diagnostic reader will confirm. It cost me about 90 bucks after returning the core from my old one. It takes about 10 minutes and a flat tip screwdriver to change. Hope this help if you are still having the prob.
  • mike_in_renomike_in_reno Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 XLT 4WD Supercab and have had the clicking noise you describe twice and they were fixed a different way for each occurence. Fix #1 - take the lug nuts and wheels off the front and spray some WD40 on the studs and where the wheel touches the brake rotor being careful not to get any on the surface of the rotor or disk pads.
    Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
    Hope that fixes you up!!!!
  • mike_in_renomike_in_reno Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 XLT 4WD Supercab and have had the clicking noise you describe twice and they were fixed a different way for each occurence. Fix #1 - take the lug nuts and wheels off the front and spray some WD40 on the studs and where the wheel touches the brake rotor being careful not to get any on the surface of the rotor or disk pads.
    Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
    Hope that fixes you up!!!!
  • dper299dper299 Member Posts: 19
    I got a code of p0455 Evap system GROSS leak...My 98 Ranger 4.0 v-6 runs with out the gas cap on..Is this normal? If not any ideas on the problem..Could it be the evap cannister purge valve?How can you tell if it's bad? Mine seems to be always open??? Thanks for any help
  • ebalderasebalderas Member Posts: 1
    i have a 98 ford reanger and everything works perfectly except that i have the check engine light on and i took it to get it checked and i got a p1506 and a p1133 code. the problem is that they don't know what the codes mean so if some knows what i can do to fix that let me know please.
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