Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
See my message # 2387, after much screwing around by two garages
1. New Master cylinder, no charge, no diagnosis ($519.00)
2. New ABS unit , no charge, no diagnosis ($679.00)
3. Forced to go to Ford dealership (against my better judgment)found to be the left front sensor in wheel hub assy.
Sensor can't be replace alone...new wheel hub assy $650.00.
Problem solved so far.
Your symptoms sound very similiar to mine.
Let me know and good luck,
Any thoughts or ideas as to where the problem(s) may lie are welcome! Thanks!
happy new year!
Thanks.
FordTech
I should add. I have 3.0L Flex w/5-spd man. Off-road package with torsion bar front suspension, and 2" factory lift. P245/75R16 tires from factory replaced with LT245/75R16's. This is the trail head package, so I have the same setup as the 4x4's, but without the front axle, transfer case, or limited slip rear diff.
As for the charges to diagnose, most shops I know charge about $30 for the first half hour of diagnostics, and if they go over that, then they automatically charge a full hour at about $50-$75/hr. If you let that dealership work on your vehicle at those rates, then you need to be drug outback and shot.. LOL
This would be greatly appreciated by us, and you, should we be able to poinpoint the system causing the concern. Atleast then we can also identify a possible fix for the concern.
Thanks,
Ford Tech
What I am most curious about is why they said you needed a whole new trans wiring harness. Usually if there is a wiring problem they can overlay wires and replace pigtails instead of replacing the WHOLE harness. If the pan was just bent, straighten it out. The converter can be rebuilt, I would see if you can find one of those, but I cant help ya out on that TCC solenoid. Those ya should buy new.
Hope this helps.
Thks
That light has 3 uses that I can think of off the top of my head.
1. Notification that the parking brake is set.
2. Notification there is problem in the service brake system.
3. When this light is actived by a low fluid level or service brake problem then the abs system is INACTIVE or doesn't work.
First step when the red "Brake" light is on, is to check the "P" brake is not on. Second, check the fluid level in the main resevoir on the Master Cylinder. Third, verify no leaks from hoses or rear brake cylinders. That should help diagnose your problem.
IF all of the above are satisfied, and you can't find a leak or low fluid level, I would use a simple test light to see if you can get a ground through the wire leading to the "P" brake, while it is disconnected from the switch. If you can do that, then the wire has chafed and found an alternate path to ground. Trace the wire back up to the cluster.
Ford Tech
a viberation in the exhaust system that is felt through out the vehicle at various speeds. Does it work? I'm not sure yet.
So its not really a band-aid as you say. It just wasnt caught at the design or manufacturing level, so this part could be installed without your knowledge.
So, its very possible that it could fix your problem all together.
Ford Tech
Now if you are refering to the TSB, I didnt see anything about changing out the knock sensor, just change the PCM with a new part# and put in the recal. I have the as-built data for my PCM, so if I ever do the upgrade (I pray it will fix the problem) then I have the info already. I am planning sometime this spring to hook my truck up to the WDS out at the University and put the as-built in and see if can get away without putting a new pcm in.
I have a similar issue with my '98 Ranger XLT, auto trans with O/D, 4.0L V6, 2WD. The O/D light in my cluster panel usually starts blinking about 5 minutes into every daily drive. When it is blinking, my transmission still performs correctly except that it shifts gears very hard. When I shut off the ignition, the system re-sets itself and the vehicle runs correctly again. Then, 5 minutes later while driving, the overdrive light begins to flash and the condition (problem) returns. Changing gears on the column or pressing the O/D button on the end of the column will not stop the O/D light from flashing. Any thoughts?