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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cpurviscpurvis Member Posts: 2
    it is a saftey feature on late model rangers for some reason
  • tukeanutukeanu Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 XLT 4x4 off road version. Lately the brakes have been acting up. If I am coming to a stop while turning hard left the brakes seem to go mushy for the last few feet. Almost seems as if the ABS has been activated. Only happens just prior to stopping so the speed is quite low but if there were an object in front of me at the time, I'm sure I would hit it. I had the brakes re-done about a year ago (new rotors, pads and shoes) by the corner garage. Seemed to work good till just recently. Anyone know what's up with this situation?
  • mrjones944mrjones944 Member Posts: 8
    I just got the front ball joint issue diagnosed on my 01 today. The squeeking is pretty much an annoyance at this point but the shop wanted nearly $1000 for parts and labor to replace both upper and lower ball joints on both sides. I think this is one of those jobs I am going to do myself and make sure I use the joints with the zirc fittings on them.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Hey,

    See my message # 2387, after much screwing around by two garages
    1. New Master cylinder, no charge, no diagnosis ($519.00)
    2. New ABS unit , no charge, no diagnosis ($679.00)
    3. Forced to go to Ford dealership (against my better judgment)found to be the left front sensor in wheel hub assy.
    Sensor can't be replace alone...new wheel hub assy $650.00.
    Problem solved so far.

    Your symptoms sound very similiar to mine.

    Let me know and good luck,
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    when they get a little mushy does your brake pedle kick back a little? i had a problem close to what you are describing it turned out to be a bad front axel bearing causing the brake rotor to bind and made my brakes mushy but not all the time. hope this helps
  • nebula30nebula30 Member Posts: 20
    I have been having this same problem on my '99 Mazda B3000...the oil pressure guage doesn't work until the engine is warmed up....and the check engine light stays on until the guage begins working....I haven't looked that closely, but am sure it's just a problem with the oil sensor.....Did you find out where they are located?....Thanks....tekman88@yahoo.com
  • ilsupercabilsupercab Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab (55K miles) with a four cylinder manual (5sp) tranny. This problem started about 2 months ago. Every 10 days to 2 weeks after the truck has sat a day or more, I'll try to start it - the engine will crank but it won't turn over. This last time I noticed that when I stopped cranking, the Check Engine light came on. The weird thing is that if I leave it alone for 1 - 3 hours, it'll start up normally & run fine again for about a week or two and then the same thing happens on a cold start. The battery is relatively new. I had the IAC valve replaced on it about a year ago but those problem symptoms were different. My mechanic couldn't replicate this problem so he was unable to diagnose it. :confuse:

    Any thoughts or ideas as to where the problem(s) may lie are welcome! Thanks!
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off after it sets a while, when you let it set a few days again there is a valve toward the front of the fuel rail it has a stem inside just like a stem on a wheel push it in and see if it has any pressure in the fuel system, if it doesn't then it is bleeding off pressure and has to pump fuel back up to the rail. and it will have some air in the line causing it to be harder to start. hope this helps
  • njdevils7njdevils7 Member Posts: 4
    first of all i must say is take it somewhere else!!! $600 is outragious.. just because it is older doesn't mean it should cost more.. never go to the dealer. if you feel like its a transmission problem goto a trans shop first. but NO it should not cost more than $100 to check.
  • tukeanutukeanu Member Posts: 10
    Yes. It kicks back like ABS would only a bit weaker. And it only happens at very low speeds when my steering is cranked to the left. Feels like I have next to no braking power at the same time. Sound like the same thing still?
  • tukeanutukeanu Member Posts: 10
    Whoops....I thought you were replying to the problem I posted. I'm a newbie here and am just figuring out how this site works. I'll re-post my original problem and maybe you can consider the symptoms
  • tukeanutukeanu Member Posts: 10
    Wookie1....here it is.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    yep sounds just the problem i had!
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    when you change them look at the zerk fittings see if they are brass, if they are change them!!! i have changed several parts and they all had brass fittings i could not get any of them to take greese
    happy new year!
  • sfmx19sfmx19 Member Posts: 2
    2005 Ranger, 2.3L, 5 spd auto. Here's one my dealer can't figure out. Any help would be appreciated. After vehicle is warmed up I get a whistling / hissing noise under deceleration. If I "blip" the throttle it will often go away. Seems to originate from left underside (most noticable if drivers door is opened slightly while coasting). Does not go away completely when stopped so it is not tires or wind noise. The colder the ambient temperature the worse it gets. Am thinking possibly transmission or fuel pump (gas tank is left side center of vehicle) but no other symptoms related to these items. This promlem is intermittent but getting worse. Any thoughts?
    Thanks.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, what has been called a loud 'humming' noise is sometimes made by a dirty Idle Control Valve on older trucks.
  • ken442ken442 Member Posts: 2
    I had to replace the clutch master cylinder and did everything i was supposed to- by the book- and it still is not engaging /disengaging. Slave cylinder and Clutch have been replaced with in the last year... I have been working at this all night and am very frustrated....Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
  • ken442ken442 Member Posts: 2
    I had to replace the clutch master cylinder and did everything i was supposed to- by the book- and it still is not engaging /disengaging. Slave cylinder and Clutch have been replaced with in the last year... :cry: I have been working at this all night and am very frustrated....Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? :sick:
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    try gravity bleeding. make sure the cylinder is full then without pushing the pedal down open the bleeder on the slave cylinder watch for fluid after fluid starts running out then tighten it up and see if you have any pedal, repeat this step a couple of times and it should start to come up. hope this helps
  • sharpie22sharpie22 Member Posts: 1
    so my ranger has been actin up lately since i replaced a couple of lights in the steering wheel and had to take off the air bag in order to connect them back up...now the horn doesnt work when u hit the steering wheel like it should. if i use the remote and hit the panic button it'll still go off so i know that it isnt a problem w/ the horn itself, and i checked the fuses and they all look fine. please let me know cuz im puzzled by this one. any suggestions?????
  • redbusredbus Member Posts: 4
    Have a 07 4 cyl with automatic. Engine is very rough at idle. Shakes, vibrates steering wheel. When idle speeded up 50 rpm, smooths out. Checked against another 07 that was smoother at idle. Dealer says its rough but that it is normal for this vehicle. Dealer says no way to adjust idle, computer controlled. Ford customer relations says dealer says its ok so there is no problem and nothing to adjust, fix. Am I stuck with a vibrating Ranger? :lemon:
  • sampson454sampson454 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 ranger with a 4-cylinder. recently it has been running rough. it will run fine for about 10 to 15 mins then will lose power, kindo of feels like it loses a cylinder or something and just runs rough. sometimes after driving like this for a little while (15-20 mins) power will be restored and runs fine again. Now the truck wont start. it started fine and idled alright then it lost power and it died and wont start again. any ideas on what the problem is and how i can fix it?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    it might be a weak plug or wire,a rough idle is not normal! look at the throttle most of them will have a small screw agains't the metal where it stops and they do have an adjustment but sometimes there is a small plug that covers the adjustment screw, and most use a torques bit or hex bit. dealers want to charge for information thats why they don't tell you anything
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    I would take it to another dealer that is more apt to work with you on it.
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, and have exhuasted pretty much all my resources to find out if my truck has 31 spline or 28 spline axle shafts. I have the 8.8 rear diff, with 4.10 gears. If I had to assume, I would assume I have 31 spline axles, but some of the info I have found does list 28 spline axles for the 8.8 rearend. Does anyone have a sure fire way of getting my axle spline count without pulling the diff cover to check? The reason I am askin is because I have an open diff, and I want to install a detroit locker, but need the spline count. I dont want to waste money on a new gasket, just to get a spline count if I dont have to. I even went through the workshop manual on Fords website and it isnt even definitive about this.

    FordTech

    I should add. I have 3.0L Flex w/5-spd man. Off-road package with torsion bar front suspension, and 2" factory lift. P245/75R16 tires from factory replaced with LT245/75R16's. This is the trail head package, so I have the same setup as the 4x4's, but without the front axle, transfer case, or limited slip rear diff.
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Ok I got the info I needed. I hadn't thought to talk to the parts guy and see if he had the info I wanted.. LOL
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Ok let me get this straight, the engine just died and the truck coasted to a stop? Given the trucks age and the fact that it was running fine and just up and quit, I would be looking at a possible fuel concern. More pointedly I would be looking at my fuel pump. They have a habit of just up and quiting, but not usually while running. They usually get shut off like normal, and then wont start back up.

    As for the charges to diagnose, most shops I know charge about $30 for the first half hour of diagnostics, and if they go over that, then they automatically charge a full hour at about $50-$75/hr. If you let that dealership work on your vehicle at those rates, then you need to be drug outback and shot.. LOL
  • montess2k4montess2k4 Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem...mine chatters mainly between 40-45 mph. I ran premium fuel and it took the chattering noise away but I still feel the vibration in the gas petal. I have no idea what else to try. The vibration is just as annoying as the chattering. Suggestions??
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    People, please include Year, Model (ie XL,XLT, 2wd, 4wd, man.trans, auto trans)as well as Engine size. All of this informatin is RELEVANT to helping you guys fix any concerns you have, or atleast give you, and us, an idea of what to look for.

    This would be greatly appreciated by us, and you, should we be able to poinpoint the system causing the concern. Atleast then we can also identify a possible fix for the concern.

    Thanks,

    Ford Tech
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    my overdrive shuts off on my 98 ranger splash once I hit 50 or 60 mph. i had diag done and am told that I need a new torque converter, tcc solenoid, trans wiring harness and filter and pan gasket....ouch for around a grand....
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    I don't know about the interior light but the "door ajar" dummy light has a tendency to stick during cold weather...I had same issue and just used wd 40 on the latches....and it is now gone. I previously had to remove my interior bulb because when the dummy light came on, the interior light stayed on also....
  • keneke57keneke57 Member Posts: 2
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    I just had a tranny diag done for $70 and an engine diag for $30
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    I will tell you right now you can do all of that yourself and save yourself a bunch of money. Everything you listed there is easy to do. You can order that TCC solenoid from any autoparts store, but its probably goin to be around $100 or more. The harness, converter, and pan you can should be able to get at the salvage yard. If you dont have one local here is a site that lists parts from thousands of salvage yars around the country. http://www.car-part.com/ I did a search for the pan, converter, and harness. I came up with 3 possibles on the converter, 5pages for a harness (most were engine harnesses), and got a quote request page for the pan.

    What I am most curious about is why they said you needed a whole new trans wiring harness. Usually if there is a wiring problem they can overlay wires and replace pigtails instead of replacing the WHOLE harness. If the pan was just bent, straighten it out. The converter can be rebuilt, I would see if you can find one of those, but I cant help ya out on that TCC solenoid. Those ya should buy new.

    Hope this helps.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Recently my emerg brake warning dash light stays on. The brake releases fine. Any solutions?

    Thks
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Check your fluid level in your Master Cylinder resevoir.

    That light has 3 uses that I can think of off the top of my head.

    1. Notification that the parking brake is set.

    2. Notification there is problem in the service brake system.

    3. When this light is actived by a low fluid level or service brake problem then the abs system is INACTIVE or doesn't work.

    First step when the red "Brake" light is on, is to check the "P" brake is not on. Second, check the fluid level in the main resevoir on the Master Cylinder. Third, verify no leaks from hoses or rear brake cylinders. That should help diagnose your problem.

    IF all of the above are satisfied, and you can't find a leak or low fluid level, I would use a simple test light to see if you can get a ground through the wire leading to the "P" brake, while it is disconnected from the switch. If you can do that, then the wire has chafed and found an alternate path to ground. Trace the wire back up to the cluster.

    Ford Tech
  • rrshannonrrshannon Member Posts: 2
    Will a aod trans work with a 2.3l. The aod trans is out of a 89 mustang.
  • les7les7 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 94 ranger. It may be an air bubble trapped in the clutch master cylinder inside the cab. I could not get my clutch to work until I removed retaining clip and bled fluid from top of master cyl. inside the cab. Messy but worked great.
  • redbusredbus Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply Ford tech. I took delivery 12/30/06 and have been in shops 3 times so far for this problem. Finally a experienced tech installed a Ford band aid solution which is a vibration damper, pn 5G209 on the exhaust pipe aft of the converter. The damper is a weight clamped to the pipe. Apparently the exhaust gas produces a harmonic frequency that generates
    a viberation in the exhaust system that is felt through out the vehicle at various speeds. Does it work? I'm not sure yet.
  • fireman9fireman9 Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 1999 RANGER THAT PING TOO i DID EVEING THING TO IT IT STILL PING .WHAT DID FORD DO YO FIX IT ?
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Well according to a TSB for my 2000 3.0L Flex Fuel ranger, they replaced the PCM and did a recalibration. I havent changed out my PCM though, I just run higher octane (89) fuel in my truck and it gets rid of the ping.
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    That has been a problem with alot of Fords. Sometimes they catch it in the design phase and install the exhuast dampners at the factory. Somtimes they dont. Just like the 04-07 Lincoln Mk LT and the F-150's, they have a bad vibration in the bed going down the road. So much that it looks like the bed is going to come off in the rearview mirrors, but its an illusion. It is due to the stiffening of the frame, and so Ford installs a Frame dampner at the factory for all the Lincoln Mk LT's to keep them from complaining at all, and if the F-150 customer complains of this to the dealer, they have to install a frame dampner at the dealer.

    So its not really a band-aid as you say. It just wasnt caught at the design or manufacturing level, so this part could be installed without your knowledge.

    So, its very possible that it could fix your problem all together.

    Ford Tech
  • fireman9fireman9 Member Posts: 2
    what about the knock sensor
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    What about it? Your engine has to ping for about 20-30sec before the engine will retard the timing to get rid of the ping. I dont know about you, but as much as I have heard my engine ping going down the road, eventually its got to do something bad to the engine. As for what the PCM does to get rid of ping, I dont know about you, but I would prefer to keep the power output of my engine, and not have the PCM retard my timing and kill my power.

    Now if you are refering to the TSB, I didnt see anything about changing out the knock sensor, just change the PCM with a new part# and put in the recal. I have the as-built data for my PCM, so if I ever do the upgrade (I pray it will fix the problem) then I have the info already. I am planning sometime this spring to hook my truck up to the WDS out at the University and put the as-built in and see if can get away without putting a new pcm in.
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Guess what... You should be using Mercon ATF in that powersteering system.. LOL NOT Prestone PS fluid, and why would you want to? I mean you can Mercon III at any autoparts store and it only costs $1 at Wal-Mart for a quart.. Oh, and I have a 2000 3.0L as well, with 111,828mi and I still havent replaced my PS fluid.
  • 48inchvertic148inchvertic1 Member Posts: 5
    Glad you found the source of your problems. If you don't mind me asking, what is the name of the tech book and where did you purchase it?
    I have a similar issue with my '98 Ranger XLT, auto trans with O/D, 4.0L V6, 2WD. The O/D light in my cluster panel usually starts blinking about 5 minutes into every daily drive. When it is blinking, my transmission still performs correctly except that it shifts gears very hard. When I shut off the ignition, the system re-sets itself and the vehicle runs correctly again. Then, 5 minutes later while driving, the overdrive light begins to flash and the condition (problem) returns. Changing gears on the column or pressing the O/D button on the end of the column will not stop the O/D light from flashing. Any thoughts?
  • 48inchvertic148inchvertic1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '98 Ranger XLT, auto trans with O/D, 4.0L V6, 2WD. The O/D light in my cluster panel usually starts flashing about 5 minutes into each morning commute. While it is flashing, my transmission still performs correctly except that it shifts gears very hard. When I shut off the ignition, the system always will re-set itself and the vehicle runs correctly again with no flashing O/D light. Then, 5 minutes later while driving, the overdrive light begins to flash again and the condition (problem) returns. Changing gears on the column or pressing the O/D button on the end of the column gear shifter will not stop the O/D light from flashing. I feel strongly that it's a sensor issue, but I do not know which one to check. Any thoughts?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i have a 97 my od light was flashing the problem was my speed sensor
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    I took my truck into a shop for diagnostics and they told me that I needed a new torque converter, solenoid and wiring harness. I sold my truck as this was about a thousand dollar repair.
  • farmer12farmer12 Member Posts: 2
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