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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1474850525359

Comments

  • pinhead2pinhead2 Member Posts: 3
    I,ve already replaced the box on the drivers side.
  • avalanche33avalanche33 Member Posts: 2
  • avalanche33avalanche33 Member Posts: 2
    1990 Ranger, 2.3 4 cyl fuel injected, 57,000 miles.
    Truck sat for over 4 years. Changed fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned tank, new plugs, wires. Sometimes it starts and runs great, others, hit the gas and it bogs, BAAAAD, to the tune of almost shutting off. Ran codes on it and nothing came up, (of course it was running good at that time), feels like a vac or sensor problem. Any help would be much appreciated, shade tree mechanic's don't know the diagnostics.
  • blackjack2825blackjack2825 Member Posts: 1
    P1506 - Idle Air Control Overspeed Error
    P1113 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    some time back i ran in to a problem on a s10 not sure if it will do any good, but it didn't have any spark and the problem was in the positive battery cable connection to the battery it was coroded the engine turned over but no spark. also check your ground wire from the body to the engine and harness plugs sometimes they get coroded. sometimes it can be a minor overlooked problem. maybe this will help or not
    have a good day
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    there is an idle speed solenoid on the throttle body that controls the gas air mix, it looks like a small cylinder with wires pluged in to it. thats most likely causing your problem. (not a throttle position sensor)
  • lanisponylanispony Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2000 4.0 xlt 4x4 with 80k miles. Had the truck a week and it has run quiet. Changed oil yesterday, 5w30 oil, Lucas, and a motocraft filter, and now the engine is chattering like crazy. I understand these motors have chattering issues? Why did it run quiet before and now sounds awful? Help!
  • fordtechfordtech Member Posts: 34
    Well first off, you put an additive into the oil, and you dont know how that additive works with that oil. Change the oil again, and this time leave out the Lucas. I hate oil additives... LOL I am a Ford Tech by the way, and Ford DOES NOT recommend any additives in the oil. Not to mention they are NOT needed.

    Go from 5W30 to 10W30, it is getting warmer after all, and the thicker oil will not get thin as fast as the 5W oil will.

    Ford Tech
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you want to make sure your oil pressure is still good as well, sometimes even new filters are defective, and like the man says additives are bad for engines unless your engine burns an excessive amount of oil and you need to get it home
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 2.3 with about 175,000 miles on it. The oil pressure has been reading pretty low on the gauge (lower than the little oil can in gauge) but the oil is right up to the correct level on the stick..doesn't burn any oil & the head was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago. The truck runs super cool & lately the oil pressure has been back up to where it normally is on the gauge. I change the oil every 3,000 miles if not less 20/50.

    Any suggestions!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The oil pressure gauges in Rangers are not true gauges at all, they are just off/on switches. If the oil pressure sensor 'sees' about 5 pounds or more of pressure, it sends a voltage to the gauage. The gauge will then basically register it's one pre-set 'position'.

    When I bought my 1994 Ranger, I thought it had 'great' oil pressure since it ran about 3/4 gauge. Then, after running the car on a hot summer day, and letting it idle (in gear with AC) running, there was the oil pressure gauge indication 3/4 gauge. Rev the motor - the gauge didn't move. I knew better - at idle a hot engine is going to drop oil pressure, at lot.

    That lead me to read up on the gauge a little more. It's not a gauge, it's an off/on switch. Useless to actually 'see' any variation in oil pressure.

    If yours has changed the amount of deflection shown, it's not because of pressure change. It's probably due to some change in the internals of the gauge itself.

    The only variables are the pressure sensor (which is either off or on), the connector to the sensor, the wiring in between, and the gauge.
  • abell2abell2 Member Posts: 2
    There is an additive for the rear diff that helped my 02..It fixed it imedaitely....Abell2
  • tilesetter28tilesetter28 Member Posts: 4
    start by checking the fuses and the wires
  • tilesetter28tilesetter28 Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 93 S10 so I can keep my 88 ranger looking nice since I just spent alot of money on a new paint job, radio,rims, etc. the s10 died 2 months after I bought and my ranger has more miles on it than the s 10 had and the ranger still runs great
  • bhammbhamm Member Posts: 2
    I,m not very carsmart, but all the coolant gushed out the bottom of my truck. It didnt leak out the radiator, but wouldnt it still be able to hold some fluids if the waterpump went out? can it be anything else besides waterpump? hope not
  • bhammbhamm Member Posts: 2
    All my coolant just gushed out the bottom, and when i tried to put more fluid in it just kept gushing out. Would this be just a bad water pump or could it be the gasket seal? please help, not much of a car person. Plus what site can I go to for instructions on replacing water pump?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    look at all the freeze plugs that may be where it's leaking from
  • jpl0220jpl0220 Member Posts: 1
    This is the third time this happened to me about once a month.
    My truck just stops running while driving like, I ran out of gas. After stopping it will not start. Call tow truck to take home. Next morning I want to figure out the problem but the truck starts up like nothing happened.

    What to do? I would like fix it but it's not like changing a head casket. Could it be fuel pump system, ignition?
  • tilesetter28tilesetter28 Member Posts: 4
    take out the alarm. I find that aftermarket alarms are junk and they cause the vehicle to have electrical problems
  • gk1066gk1066 Member Posts: 1
    Hope someone can help me with my problem. All at one time my transmission shifts hard and the check engine light came on as well as the ABS light and O/D off light and not to mention the speedometer and odometer stopped working. I think it may be a censer or a vacuum leek. Am I on the right track? Or is it something else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated . One more thing it's a 99' Ranger 3.0L

    Gary
  • clutch27clutch27 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 95 2.3l and im currently experiencing the same [non-permissible content removed]...since its such a small motor its all compacted into that little compartment and cant pin point the leak...so if you have any info or is someone fills you in please drop a line....i just might get tired of it and swap it out for a 302...
  • jbeatyjbeaty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 Ford Ranger that is not getting fuel. It has the fuel injected 2.3 liter with a 5 speed manual trans. Anyways when I turn the ignition on the pumps do not turn on the engine only cranks. I have replace the rear fuel pump it was bad and had the frame rail pump checked so they are both good. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay and checked all fuses. I have checked the voltage to the Fuel pump relay and it is good. I can bypass the relay and get the pumps to kick on but the fuel injectors still will not open up. So the last thing I replaced was the computer and I still dont have fuel to the engine. Any other ideas on what I can check next?
  • jtwhitehousejtwhitehouse Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2003 6 cylinder 3.0 Edge that suffers from pre-ignition pinging from time to time, usually while the engine is hot.

    A mechanic at the Ford dealer listened to it and said it is not a big deal and relatively typical of the 3.0. I had gathered as much from this board.

    He said it was most likely either a contaminated MAS at the air filter, or some carbon buildup in the engine.

    I cleaned the MAS and believe that the pinging is better, but not quite gone. I talked to someone who suggested that I run some cleaner throught the engine, (Redline something or other), and also that I add something to my radiator fluid to help cool the engine so that it doesn't run so hot. He also suggested I lower the thermostat a little to 180 rather than the 195 it is at.

    My question is, has anyone out there tried this approach, and did it work?

    thanks,

    jt
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    check the harness plug for the injectors and make sure they are not coroded, if they are use some pb blaster or wd 40 and a stiff bristle fiber brush to clean the contact terminals i believe it will be something simple the old saying is (never overlook the obvious)
    hope this helps!
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i have heard several people saying gas stations are putting ethinall in regular gas try using a higher grade once or twice whitch will clean the valves. when the mechanics that work on these cars tell you they don't build up carbon like the old leded gas did, all the unleded gas done was stop it from building it up faster i have took several engines apart that run the low grade gas and found carbon deposits on the valves i used 89 octane for a couple of weeks and went back to the 87 my truck runs much better and i also put a bottle of carb and fuel injection cleaner in about once every 8 months. hope this helps
  • bluemac57bluemac57 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2000 Ranger did the same thing yours is doing. It was a speed sensor, costed about $200 at the dealer to fix. I have heard that it is not uncommon at all for this sensor to go bad.
  • atc22atc22 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2003 Ranger. I just have a few questions about the way it is running. The last ranger I owned was a '92, so I am guessing things have changed. The ranger I have has the 3.0L engine with an automatic trans and a k&N cold air intake system. I have noticed the first time I drove on the interstate there was a rattling or clinging that seemed to be under the hood. What could that be? Also, I noticed there is not a lot of torque when I am trying to pass or speed up on the interstate. And the last thing is I noticed that I am unable to rev engine past 3000 RPM in park. I am assuming there is some sort of govoner. Is all of this normal, or is there some things I can do to improve any of this? Thanks ahead for any replies.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    -3L ping is typical.

    -Cleaner might remove some carbon deposits from engine and help.

    -I would not recommend using a 180 degree thermo. The computer, etc, etc is 'looking' for a 195 degree thermostat. A 180 might never let the engine go into 'closed loop'. In other words, the computer might think the engine is 'cold' and never move to the fuel injection amounts, spark advance, etc that should be used for a warm engine.

    Basically, 3L's ping. Little can be done about it other than using higher octane fuel. This has been a design problem with 3Liters for years and years. Many will start to ping within just a few thousand miles. But, the ping does not seem to cause any mechanical problems with the motor.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    there is a sensor to prevent over reving the engine in park it's a safty precaution to keep from blowing the engine if it would run low on oil do to leaks, ect. so it's normal
    a friend had a 99 that was set up the same way
  • kermit0009kermit0009 Member Posts: 1
    Not sure if you have already fixed this but on my 02, at around 50,000 I had the same problems. At idle it was fine, but under load it would cut out. The Ford house couldn't figure it out so I kept looking at it. I finally started it up one night and just observed it running. I noticed a slight clicking sound and realized it was the plug wires arcing through.

    When they would heat up, the wires would become more malleable and would droop or get blown next to the manifold where it could arc through causing a misfire. It would do this under load because of the voltage increase as well as probably the motion of the car making the wire move.

    I replaced them with the high end ones that are guaranteed for life for about $50. Good luck.
  • rangerdanger1rangerdanger1 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 91 ranger with the same prob. i live on east coat Canada and we see alot of salt both from the water and dot in winter. I talked to my mechanic and he said he has seen it before so i went to local junk yard and got the piece for 30 bucks and they said it would take about 1 hour to put on .there are 5 rivets holding it on .They can be cut of and replaced by heavy grade bolts. What i heard its not that bad .
  • toot2toot2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0 same problem. First time light came on code specified EGR valve. I replaced it and now The check engine code indicates EGR flow is insufficient. I have not had time to check yet, but there must be a sensor that reads gases so I will try to find a test for that. Did you ever find the answer with yours?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Wow.
    Message 2527 replied to a message over 6 years old. I really think that is a record.

    Message 2526 replied to one that is 1 year 2 months old.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    2002 Ranger 4.0L SOHC 2WD.
    My truck is not running right, its not running bad, just not right. My computer says my EGR is screwing up, but I did not think that would have anything to do with how it runs. At 40mph it chugs, and when you take it out of gear the rpm goes down to 200, but then slowly returns to 600 normal idle. Any idears, really appreciated.
  • djhessdjhess Member Posts: 1
    i have a '98 ranger 4 cylinder, we recently realized it needed some work done on it and instead of paying for labor my dad handed me all the parts and a user manual. the problem is i don't know which way is up with all this

    we had a mechanic inspect the truck and he said the fuel filter needs replacing, i found the filter and have a replacement but for some reason i can't get it loose. i got the clips off and got it out of the bracket but its like the filter is stuck in the hose its connected to on both sides. the manual said something about releasing the pressure with the inertia swith or something and i tried it but that won't even work.

    any ideas how to get the filter out? thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    "My computer says my EGR is screwing up"

    Does this mean there is a 'Check Engine' light on?

    If so, fix whatever is causing that, your other problems might go away. You sure don't want to chase 'unknown' problems when there is a check engine light on.

    EGR error codes get a lot of EGR valves changed that have nothing wrong with them. There are several hoses and vacuum switches related to this system that could be the problem, not the actual valve.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, some of the fuel line connectors have push-in spring retained connections. You have to have a 'special tool' to get them apart.

    This tool is nothing but a thin tube with the side cut out of it, and a grip attached. You put the open side over the fuel line and slide it into the connector, which pushes the inside clip loose and it can be pulled apart.

    An auto parts house should be able to sell you one for your Ranger, or a whole set for various sized lines. Only about $10, they are cheap flimzy metal.

    Knowing how to work on a car is nice. But buying you a manual and telling you to 'get after it' is somewhat like throwing you into the lake to learn to swim.

    I bet he bought you a Chilton's manual, right? These are almost useless for most repairs on a car. To do it right, you will need the factory manuals. Sometimes can be found on eBay reasonably, but bought new at Helms, Inc and will cost about $125.

    P.S.
    Good Luck.
    P.P.S.
    If you do get the filter off, a lot of gas is going to start coming out. It is 'downhill' from the gas tank. Do not work on this where there is any ignition source!!!! (Inside a garage with a water heater, etc!!!) Have an old pencil at hand and stick this into the open fuel line when removed to stop the gas flow! It should hold until you put a new filter on.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    The check enine light, yes. EGR insufficient flow, and your right I'm going to get the EGR fixed before I go chasing ghost problems that could be caused by EGR messing up. But its and emmissions control system, I thought would have nothing to do with how it runs.
    Now I just have to figure out what part of the EGR system is causing the problem, if I take it into the shop can they figure it out with more technical equipment, or will they do the same hit or miss fixing that I would be doing.

    I really appreciate your response to my question Bolivar.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    It's time to replace plugs and wires on the Ranger again (misfires again). It's going on 190,000 commuter and mostly stop-and-go miles on it, and this isn't the first time for new plugs and wires, but Ranger has earned them at the very least. I'm looking for other's experiences with alternatives or should I just go with another set of Motorcrap-t.

    If I go with something like iridium plugs (or split-fires?) or other more modern designs, I'm not convinced it's money well-spent unless (at the very least) I have different gap specs, and I don't know if the original ignition module would even be up to the task of improving spark with a better-grade plug.

    Any actual experiences to share?

    Thanks folks!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My opinion - buy any PLATIUM plugs (AC, Motorcraft, etc) in the same type as orginial and you will not go wrong. I've heard stories about Rangers not liking Bousch (sp?). This should give you 50,000 miles or so for sure.

    I think split ring, multi electrode, etc is just marketing hype.

    Spend the money saved on new plug wires. If it's time for plugs, it's time for new wires. And, you don't have to worry about damaging the old ones. Just get one off and put one replacement plug and wire back on there. Not much chance of getting them cross wired either.
  • david6david6 Member Posts: 75
    I recently had to replace the tailgate handle on my 2001 Ranger XLT, and prior to doing this found no real info on the web as to what this would take. So here is what I found out (not having a repair manual) . . . I hope this helps others and is generally useful:

    It's quite simple. The part itself cost me $35 from the local Ford dealer, although some websites have it for cheaper, and another local dealer wanted $50. I got an exact replacement for the original black plastic handle, although there are chrome options, apparently, and probably others.

    All that I had to do was unscrew 8 screws from the inside of the tailgate to remove my plastic bedliner, and underneath that, a metal plate covering the mechanics. The handle itself is attached with two nuts which I removed using a socket wrench, since they are an inch below some of the levers. I pulled the handle off the tailgate, and reversed the process. I wasn't working quickly or uninterrupted, but I would guess that this all took me maybe a half hour, while the dealerships wanted to charge me an hour (at the good one) or two (at the expensive one) to do the work.

    One key point is that my handle broke because one of the bolts that slides back and forth to hold the tailgate to the body became stuck in it's casing. I made sure to grease this up and spray some WD-40 on the springs of the mechanics. If other Ranger owners wish to avoid replacing the handle (as I also have to do on another Ranger my company owns) they may wish to do preventative maintenance in this area.
  • david6david6 Member Posts: 75
    While I was recently focused on replacing my tailgate handle, my air conditioning died on my 2001 Ranger XLT 4.0L 2x4 with 94,000 miles. I was surprised by this, since it seems a bit early. Understandably Ford corporate didn't feel any need to help me out with the costs, but I've heard that Honda has helped out CR-V owners when their A/C compressors died at similar mileage.

    It turned out that the air conditioning compressor clutch died. As a result, the shaft seal began to melt, so the dealer is replacing both of those, and as a result has to recharge the unit. Total cost just a bit less than $800.

    I felt that the truck was due for something like this to happen given the mileage, and since it is under $1,000 I'm not too upset, but I am disappointed. I had hoped my suspicions would not be justified like this, since I believe the Ranger is pretty reliable.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    " I was surprised by this, since it seems a bit early"

    Why does it seem to be a bit early?

    At 6 years and 100K miles I suspect that a lot more items will need replacing. It is the nature of things.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My '95 Ranger has been giving me some trouble with wear on the inside edge of both my front tires. The steering is really stiff. I don't know if it needs an alignment adjustment for camber or if something else might be wrong. I don't think it's the bearings they seem to be intact. Anyone else have any ideas???
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you need to have the caster, camber adjusted to stop the wear. i had the same problem i took it to an alighnment shop now both front tires wear evenly
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I took it down to two separate shops and they both said my ball joints are shot! I've got to get new camber sleeves and tie rod ends too. In essence a complete overhaul on my front end. The cost is going to be $1,100!
  • dorkianndorkiann Member Posts: 2
    did you get this resolved? I'm having the same problem and wanted to know how you fixed it. We changed bulbs, fuses and check wiring.
  • dorkianndorkiann Member Posts: 2
    same problem, did/how you resolve it?
  • keith8000keith8000 Member Posts: 1
    I had this exact problem (abs light on and hard shifting in second) with my 2000 ranger and the speed sensor replacement worked like a charm! I know this post is 2 years old but wanted to express my sincere gratitude! Thank you!!!!
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I took it down to Midas and they told me it was the steering gear and bearings needed to be replaced for $750. Someone is off base here I wonder who??? :confuse:
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