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Dave, the cluster is well hidden on the Ranger... first, the trim panel around the radio has to be pulled back a little (two screws above the A/C knobs) to access one screw at the top left corner that holds the cluster trim, then the three screws on the underside of the top of the cluster lense, and the ones that are hidden behind the top of the driver's knee bolster after removing the knee bolster and the metal plate behind it. Then, the cluster trim pulls off, and the cluster itself has 4 screw (one in each corner) to remove it, three electrical connectors and it's in your lap. The bulbs you need are small 'peanut' bulbs, and they twist a 1/4 turn to remove/install. Generally, due to the labor involved, I recommend replacing all the bulbs once you're there, so you won't have to do this again next month.
Estimated time for the job is one hour.
Hope this helps...
Clay
Cheers
Barry
hope this helps
oil or power steering that may blow fluid into the starter when you drive, any fluid penetrating starter will short out the starter. If the the engine turns over but does not start, there are relays in a black box near the battery, one of which controls the gas pump you can here it if you turn the ignition to the on position before starting the engine. Sometimes this relay causes a intermittent problem like when driving to one place then after re-entering the truck to go somewhere else it won't start. To identify the relay if the truck is starting, just pull out a relay until it does not start. If the truck is not starting just swap the relays from one position to another, they are the same type relays so just keep track of the original position.
The relays are very inexpensive.
Look closely, or have a tire shop look, at all the tires, including the inside sidewalls. A belt inside the tire might have broken. Look for knots, bulges, etc.
Barry Baker
Thanks in Advance
-Ryan
If you would be so kind as tyo check this inquiry in our new Edmunds Answers section: What is the correct rear end for a 1999 Ford Ranger 4WD Supercab?
kcram - Pickups Host
Any suggestions? No, its not frozen or clogged.
Can the switch be dirty?
Thks
Dave
Some people say a heavy dose of spray WD40 or elecrical cleaner from outside the door, thru the hole under the handle, can clean the switch enough to get it working again. This should have nothing to do with the wipers or speedometer.
Is your ABS light on? Speedometer and ABS sensor can sometimes be related. The ABS sensor in the rear differential may be failed, or just dirty with metal grit. I would think there would be ABS codes set, if it is failed. Pulling the ABS codes is different, I think, from pulling the 'regular' 'check engine codes'. Overall, I don't have a good recommendation on the speedo or wiper problems.
I guess I will just have to keep my eye on this. He thought that maybe snow from my shoe had gotten under the rubber floor mat. I'm skeptical of this, because the carpet had been very wet. By the way, the wetness did not smell of coolant. If anything, it smelled like detergent. I still think the water may be getting in from underneath, and the detergent smell came from my last car wash. The wash includes an underbody spray. Also I frequently use a high pressure wand to wash off the underside of the truck. I would think that this is ok to do. Thanks all for your help. I'll post again if I have anything to add as time goes on.
On a fluke I swithed the relay with a similiar one (trailer towing relay switch) and presto, the washer sprays like new. I priced a new relay at CTC for $26.95 (dealer item).
Will pick one up tomorrow.
This got so wet I had to use a wet vac and a space heater (3 days) to dry it out.
Does your ranger have moulding on the roof?
Went to Autozone and picked up a 1.99 mat to stick on top of the leaky mat to fix the problem for the time. I paid around $60 for those Ford mats, I might call Ford and try to get a replacement for free. Thanks all for your help.
Sensor problem??
Thanks for any help!
FR
On my 94, with 2 wheel ABS, when the fluid got low, just from the normal wear on the pads, the ABS light came on. Mine only came on when the brake was pressed, it did not stay on all the time.
If yours is on all the time, you might have another problem.
Has it been hit in the front?
Think this could be the cause?? (still going to check the fluid level)
Thanks for your response!
frohrs
If you add fluid, you will need to suck some out when you replace pads/shoes because the new, thinker brakes will push fluid back thru the system and overflow the master cylinder. A turkey baster is cheep, and works well for this. DON'T USE IT FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN BRAKE FLUID!
Thanks for any help
I hope someone can help. My 2000 Ford Ranger keeps blowing the 15amp reverse lamps fuse. It is fine when I move the automatic transmission shifter into or out of park or reverse. However, when I put in drive, the reverse lamp fuse blows. I had read about the wire in the steering column, so I removed the cover and realized I have no clue what I am looking for. Am I barking up the wrong tree, should I not be barking...I basically need help!
Thanks,
John
I park on a hill so e-brake is nessessary, however, in all 3 trucks, it occationally sticks on, reverse up the hill sometimes works to brake it loose.It is not the cables,I can move them in and out
so please help me out
The usual complaint is the brakes 'grabbing' very bad for the first few stops after setting overnight in damp weather. I just 'rode my brakes' for a 100 yards a little bit, and this would pull the rust off, and not jerk my head off when I stopped at the end of the block.
But, freezing up the parking brake - I don't know what to tell you.
Some people reduced the grabbing by putting on new brakes and/or drums. Some people, this didn't help.
Many parts houses will do this for free - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.
One thing - 3L engine is known to ping a lot. Loading the truck pulling a trailer may be making this worse, and may be setting a check light.
Fill up with premium, which is about the only thing that can be done to help the 3L V6 ping problem. This might be worth a try.
1.)I have a 1988 Ranger, 4x4, Fuel injected that has a problem starting, once you get it started it dies usually when you have been driving for a bit above 2k RPM on the tach, as you take your foot off the gas once the tach goes down to 1k it dies the battery light comes and the truck dies. Now I throw it in neutral and I go to start it, I usually if not always hear a loud winding noise. I let go and I have to let the winding noise stop before I can try to crank it again or it will just make the noise. If I time it and hit the gas during the mid sound of the wind it kicks over and starts granted theres a plume of white/grey smoke that comes out on times when its really hard to start, I assume I just flooded it with being Fuel injected. This winding noise is heard when ever the engine is started, I assume its the starter or something in close relation. The truck is already missing I know that much, but how can I fix this starting and dying problem?
2.)Seperate issue perhaps, my dad was fooling with it before he had to left for business and he said something about a part under the hood and to check if it would start at all I had to take a wooden handled screw driver and see if a spark jumps. Its located on the left wheel well. I am not to sure since mom was translating from a note, and I am sure some info got lost in translation. I am assuming he was referring to an ignition or some coil? He said when the truck was giving him fits he would mess with the wires on that part and it would attempt to start again.
I am really not up to par with engines, its like a test in school, so much stuff in the inner workings just makes my mind buzz I get nervous. I need help and I would be very grateful.