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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • koobykooby Member Posts: 2
    Hey Nailbunny, I found this answer on another forum. I doubt you're still trying to do this, but, in case you are, here it is:

    Dave, the cluster is well hidden on the Ranger... first, the trim panel around the radio has to be pulled back a little (two screws above the A/C knobs) to access one screw at the top left corner that holds the cluster trim, then the three screws on the underside of the top of the cluster lense, and the ones that are hidden behind the top of the driver's knee bolster after removing the knee bolster and the metal plate behind it. Then, the cluster trim pulls off, and the cluster itself has 4 screw (one in each corner) to remove it, three electrical connectors and it's in your lap. The bulbs you need are small 'peanut' bulbs, and they twist a 1/4 turn to remove/install. Generally, due to the labor involved, I recommend replacing all the bulbs once you're there, so you won't have to do this again next month.
    Estimated time for the job is one hour.
    Hope this helps...
    Clay

    Cheers
  • moochorbbmoochorbb Member Posts: 16
    I drive a 98 ranger with a 2.5 L. recently when driving at around 65 - 75 mph there is a strong shake, the steering wheel shakes along with the rest of the truck. I have checked the tires and pressure thinking that maybe something was wrong there but nothing. the tires are wearing properly and i have no idea what it could be. During idle or lower speeds the truck is perfectly fine. The problem only exists when driving at high speeds. Any ideas?

    Barry
  • bc2005rlbc2005rl Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Ranger XLT Ext Cab and I ran out of gas thinking that I still had some in the tank, at least that's what the gauge read. I reset my counter whenever I fill up and I had a total of 393 files on the counter when the truck died on me. I'm like you, I don't pay attention to the gauge anymore. I just put gas in it when I think I need it.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    check the driveshaft for play at both ends chalk the wheels and put the trans in nuetral if u-joints are ok check the tie rod ends and idler arm for play. also check the front wheel bearings and make sure there isn't any play in them as well
    hope this helps
  • terr1terr1 Member Posts: 1
    Two things, if the truck does not turn over check to see if you have an fluid leak
    oil or power steering that may blow fluid into the starter when you drive, any fluid penetrating starter will short out the starter. If the the engine turns over but does not start, there are relays in a black box near the battery, one of which controls the gas pump you can here it if you turn the ignition to the on position before starting the engine. Sometimes this relay causes a intermittent problem like when driving to one place then after re-entering the truck to go somewhere else it won't start. To identify the relay if the truck is starting, just pull out a relay until it does not start. If the truck is not starting just swap the relays from one position to another, they are the same type relays so just keep track of the original position.
    The relays are very inexpensive.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is it an extended cab, with a split driveshaft? If so, the center 'bearing' or whatever that thing is, also wear out and can cause vibration.

    Look closely, or have a tire shop look, at all the tires, including the inside sidewalls. A belt inside the tire might have broken. Look for knots, bulges, etc.
  • revelationxrevelationx Member Posts: 3
    Drive shaft or universal/center support bearing (you didn't say if it was an extended cab or not)
  • batts2400batts2400 Member Posts: 1
    ran out of gas now it will not start
  • moochorbbmoochorbb Member Posts: 16
    It is a regular cab. But thanks ill take a look at those. had to replace the universal on the old 89 a while back. thanks again revelationx
  • moochorbbmoochorbb Member Posts: 16
    I have checked the drive shaft and it had no play....also i checked the front bearings and one of them had some play....replaced that one. I'll check the tie rod ends and idler arm like wookie1 suggested.

    Barry Baker
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    when you check the tie rods ect. make sure the front end is off the ground. when i had my 97 ranger the inner tie rod was causing my problem once i got it replaced i had all 4 tires spin balenced and it solved my problem. let me know how it works out have a great day!
  • ryan77300dryan77300d Member Posts: 64
    I'm planning on looking at a 1990 Ford Ranger 2wd 5spd std. Regular Cab pickup. I was wondering if this truck would have a 2.0 or a 2.3 4cyl engine. Are there any major points to be checking besides the obvious on these trucks?

    Thanks in Advance

    -Ryan
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Gentlemen,
    If you would be so kind as tyo check this inquiry in our new Edmunds Answers section: What is the correct rear end for a 1999 Ford Ranger 4WD Supercab?

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • kuberr4kuberr4 Member Posts: 6
    i have a 1992 ford ranger 4x4 2.3L 4 cyl, and i am almost positive that the TPS is bad so i went out and bought a new one but it is located behind the air intake sytstem and i can not seem to figure out how to get at it without removing the intake, does anyone have any insight on how to change the TPS?
  • jblum19jblum19 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Ford Ranger is stuck in 4 wheel drive low. Is there a fuse a need to be looking at ?
  • fm544fm544 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 98 3.0 Ranger 2wd auto that needs a y pipe. Can I use one from a 2004 3.0 manual?? It would save me big bucks over a new one. Thanks
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    My Ranger XLT 4.0 L washer fluid comes out with low pressure. I put as new pump on today (mounted in the bottom of the fluid reservoir on the firewall side). This made no improvement. It squirts out about 3" up on the window.

    Any suggestions? No, its not frozen or clogged.
    Can the switch be dirty?

    Thks
    Dave
  • toolman6toolman6 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1999 4x4 Ford Ranger with newer (35,000 miles) 3.0 V6 motor. DTC P1309 showing up. Truck runs like a top. I did notice that temp gauge moves up and down slightly during driving since engine light tuned on. Needle has always gone just beyond the "C" on gauge. Does heat sensor need to be replaced? What could it be?
  • jburdinejburdine Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2001 Ranger Edge. Do you ever find a fix and what was it? Thanks
  • jburdinejburdine Member Posts: 2
    The Wipers, Speedometer and dome light don't work in my 2001 Ford Ranger. I replaced the wiper switch and checked the fuses to no avail. The problem started when my dome light was staying on and I pulled the bulb so not to run the battery down. Anyone have any fixes? Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, the dome light problem is the door open/closed switch. It is not on the front door jam, as on older cars, it is inside the door. You have to pull the door panel. It's somewhere on or close to the mechanism connected to the outside door handle. These switches get dirty or completely fail.
    Some people say a heavy dose of spray WD40 or elecrical cleaner from outside the door, thru the hole under the handle, can clean the switch enough to get it working again. This should have nothing to do with the wipers or speedometer.

    Is your ABS light on? Speedometer and ABS sensor can sometimes be related. The ABS sensor in the rear differential may be failed, or just dirty with metal grit. I would think there would be ABS codes set, if it is failed. Pulling the ABS codes is different, I think, from pulling the 'regular' 'check engine codes'. Overall, I don't have a good recommendation on the speedo or wiper problems.
  • liman1liman1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Ranger standard cab. The carpet on the driver's side under the mat is wet, the padding seems wet too. I bought the truck new and it has been babied. Only 14000 miles. I would appreciate hearing any ideas as to what might be the cause. I looked under the truck and didn't see anything obvious. The dealer is having me bring the truck in on Friday, that is the day their water leak specialist is in. Thanks in advance.
  • nealaneala Member Posts: 2
    I have noticed a wet carpet on the passenger side. Please post what you find. Thanks.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i have had the same problem and found out my heater core was leaking
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Could also be a clogged drain for the evaporator core. All depends if the "wetness" smells like coolant.
  • nealaneala Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to both of you. It didn't seem to smell of antifreeze, so I'll first pursue blocked drain & then heater core.
  • liman1liman1 Member Posts: 7
    The local leak expert, who finds and fixes leaks for several local dealerships, checked out my Ranger yesterday. He could not find any leak. He ran water all over the vehicle. He did not look at the underside of the vehicle. I asked him to put the car on a lift and look underneath. He told me that that was not necessary because the padding was dry. He said that if I had a leak, the padding would remain wet for a long time.

    I guess I will just have to keep my eye on this. He thought that maybe snow from my shoe had gotten under the rubber floor mat. I'm skeptical of this, because the carpet had been very wet. By the way, the wetness did not smell of coolant. If anything, it smelled like detergent. I still think the water may be getting in from underneath, and the detergent smell came from my last car wash. The wash includes an underbody spray. Also I frequently use a high pressure wand to wash off the underside of the truck. I would think that this is ok to do. Thanks all for your help. I'll post again if I have anything to add as time goes on.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    I read my owners manual and located the w.washer pump relay switch #14 in the main control box under the hood.

    On a fluke I swithed the relay with a similiar one (trailer towing relay switch) and presto, the washer sprays like new. I priced a new relay at CTC for $26.95 (dealer item).

    Will pick one up tomorrow.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    I had the same problem with my 95 Saturn, found out the frame is a two piece frame and there is a moulding on the roof drivers side. The dealer expert here told me to run a bead of silicone along each side of the moulding. I did and a year later no water leaks.
    This got so wet I had to use a wet vac and a space heater (3 days) to dry it out.

    Does your ranger have moulding on the roof?
  • joer43joer43 Member Posts: 1
    Anyone have install directions to install factory cruise control in a 2006 ranger with the 4.0 motor
  • liman1liman1 Member Posts: 7
    I have the Ford accessory rubber mats in my Ranger. The ones with the big raised treads in them to hold water. Anyway, yesterday I held them up to the light and sure enough there was a leak in them where the raised tread is bonded to the mat. So that was the problem. This was not obvious without examining the mats very carefully and holding them up to a light. I believe this was a manufacturing error.

    Went to Autozone and picked up a 1.99 mat to stick on top of the leaky mat to fix the problem for the time. I paid around $60 for those Ford mats, I might call Ford and try to get a replacement for free. Thanks all for your help.
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    I have a 1995 Ranger 2.3. The ABS light has just come on, it never came on before. I shut the truck off and restarted it the ABS light lit up and than went off like normal but came on again and now won't go off. (2 wheel drive)

    Sensor problem??

    Thanks for any help!

    FR
  • kkopchickkkopchick Member Posts: 1
    The hood on my 1993 ford ranger catches but does not close down all the way. Is there an easy fix?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The first thing to check is the level of fluid in the master cylinder.

    On my 94, with 2 wheel ABS, when the fluid got low, just from the normal wear on the pads, the ABS light came on. Mine only came on when the brake was pressed, it did not stay on all the time.

    If yours is on all the time, you might have another problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There might be an adjustment on the lock. Or you might add some shims somewhere.

    Has it been hit in the front?
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    Thanks I will do. The ABS light does not stay on all the time, however the last time it went on so did the emergency brake light. I'm going to put new drums & shoes on the rear along with a new emergency brake cable that just snapped the another day.

    Think this could be the cause?? (still going to check the fluid level)

    Thanks for your response!

    frohrs
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fluid is low in the master cylinder.

    If you add fluid, you will need to suck some out when you replace pads/shoes because the new, thinker brakes will push fluid back thru the system and overflow the master cylinder. A turkey baster is cheep, and works well for this. DON'T USE IT FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN BRAKE FLUID!
  • jagahenjagahen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 with the same problem. For now, I have removed the shifting motor on the transfer case. Be sure you tape the electrical connector up good so it doesn't get water/mud in it while driving. I recently replaced the 4x4 control module. The new one started continually trying to shift; I could hear the relay going in and out, so I've disconnected it until I find the problem. The shifting motor ohms out at 57 ohms and I'm thinking that sounds about right (can't find that spec in the ford shop manuals I purchased). I do know now that the old control module was simply worn out from trying to shift (I remember hearing it clicking but didn't know what it was at the time). I'm going to try to figure out if the motor is bound up so it can't move. I'll keep you posted.
  • jschraederjschraeder Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 ranger xlt 4.0 the electronic 4x4 wont engage. I can't find any info in my chiltons about troubleshooting this problem. I need to know if it's the electronic transfercase motor, or the button, or maybe it's just stuck? I can,t recall the last time i did any maintainance on the driveline. any help ?
  • dugger3dugger3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ranger Extended 4x4, 4.0. Auto Trans which I have a thump or clunk noise when I start out and I can get it to do it when accelerate. I read in some other post of similar problems but didn't mention a noise when accelerating. I also can see the rear springs moving and the rear axle housing. Could this be the driveshaft or rear springs?
    Thanks for any help
  • maddog671maddog671 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1997 Ranger, 4 cyl, manual trans. with 69,000 miles. The truck runs fine, but I wanted to do some routine maintenance to establish a baseline. While changing the plugs, I found that plug #4 on the exhaust side (left side, closest to the fire wall) would not come out. I can get a half a turn or so on the socket, then it sticks. I tried turning it back in, working it back and forth etc. I am afraid if I over-torque it, the plug may break. Then, I'll have real problems. Any ideas? Thank you.
  • jschraederjschraeder Member Posts: 2
    I gave up waiting for a response so I just replaced the electronic transfercase motor $60 used. 4 bolts all 10 mm & one wire nut (there's one wire that had to be spliced) took maybe 20 minutes. works great !!
  • jalvarado5jalvarado5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I hope someone can help. My 2000 Ford Ranger keeps blowing the 15amp reverse lamps fuse. It is fine when I move the automatic transmission shifter into or out of park or reverse. However, when I put in drive, the reverse lamp fuse blows. I had read about the wire in the steering column, so I removed the cover and realized I have no clue what I am looking for. Am I barking up the wrong tree, should I not be barking...I basically need help!

    Thanks,
    John
  • maddog671maddog671 Member Posts: 2
    I got my spark plug out by using PB anti-seize lubricant.
  • lunlowelunlowe Member Posts: 1
    HELP. this is my 3rd ford ranger, this one only has 30,000 on it
    I park on a hill so e-brake is nessessary, however, in all 3 trucks, it occationally sticks on, reverse up the hill sometimes works to brake it loose.It is not the cables,I can move them in and out
  • bestpibestpi Member Posts: 5
    hi my name is zeb and i have a 1993 ford ranger 3.0L V6 5 speed and my check engine light goes on at high speeds and goes off when i slow down and right now im towing a trailer from texas to richmond VA
    so please help me out
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    For some reason Rangers are known for their rear drum brakes rusting up very fast in damp weather. Very fast meaning overnight.

    The usual complaint is the brakes 'grabbing' very bad for the first few stops after setting overnight in damp weather. I just 'rode my brakes' for a 100 yards a little bit, and this would pull the rust off, and not jerk my head off when I stopped at the end of the block.

    But, freezing up the parking brake - I don't know what to tell you.

    Some people reduced the grabbing by putting on new brakes and/or drums. Some people, this didn't help.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You've got to have the codes pulled for the check engine light to have any idea what the problem is.

    Many parts houses will do this for free - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.

    One thing - 3L engine is known to ping a lot. Loading the truck pulling a trailer may be making this worse, and may be setting a check light.

    Fill up with premium, which is about the only thing that can be done to help the 3L V6 ping problem. This might be worth a try.
  • mestopholeezemestopholeeze Member Posts: 1
    i have a91 ranger,5 speed manual trans that decided one day it didn't want to start.i replaced the starter&sylenoid,and theignition relay mounted to the firewall.the battery is good but all it will do is click.any guesses?
  • wrw712wrw712 Member Posts: 1
    Ok I couldn't find in the search so here goes, maybe one of you guys can figure this out. I'll number them so its easier to answer.

    1.)I have a 1988 Ranger, 4x4, Fuel injected that has a problem starting, once you get it started it dies usually when you have been driving for a bit above 2k RPM on the tach, as you take your foot off the gas once the tach goes down to 1k it dies the battery light comes and the truck dies. Now I throw it in neutral and I go to start it, I usually if not always hear a loud winding noise. I let go and I have to let the winding noise stop before I can try to crank it again or it will just make the noise. If I time it and hit the gas during the mid sound of the wind it kicks over and starts granted theres a plume of white/grey smoke that comes out on times when its really hard to start, I assume I just flooded it with being Fuel injected. This winding noise is heard when ever the engine is started, I assume its the starter or something in close relation. The truck is already missing I know that much, but how can I fix this starting and dying problem?

    2.)Seperate issue perhaps, my dad was fooling with it before he had to left for business and he said something about a part under the hood and to check if it would start at all I had to take a wooden handled screw driver and see if a spark jumps. Its located on the left wheel well. I am not to sure since mom was translating from a note, and I am sure some info got lost in translation. I am assuming he was referring to an ignition or some coil? He said when the truck was giving him fits he would mess with the wires on that part and it would attempt to start again.

    I am really not up to par with engines, its like a test in school, so much stuff in the inner workings just makes my mind buzz I get nervous. I need help and I would be very grateful.
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