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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    I need to replace the cruise control switch that is located on the right side of the steering wheel. I can see the two screws holding the switch in place. They are located under the steering wheel padded cover that covers the air bag and horn switch, but I cannot reach them. Does anyone know how to remove this cover? I don't see any visible screws or other fasteners.
  • cougancougan Member Posts: 1
    My ranger will go through the motions of starting, but it has no fire. I had one of the power packs checked and it was fine. Also I have no power going to my fuel pump. More specifically, I have no voltage on the safety switch on the passenger floor board. I think that my problem is either the ecc relay or the emc. My question is, where is the ecc relay? I found one relay behind the glove box, which I think is the fuel pump relay, but I am nor for sure. Can someone please tell which relay it is behind the glove box and where is the ecc relay so I can test to see if it supplying voltage to the ecc. Or if you have any other recommendation that will help me troubleshoot the problem, I would appreciate it.
  • mannymiranda21mannymiranda21 Member Posts: 1
    I started my truck this morning to head to work and foun that I am unable to shift it into drive, or shift in general. It has locked up. My truck starts fine without a problem, but I just cant get it to shift. Where should I start looking?
  • tdanieltdaniel Member Posts: 1
    i started it up and teaching my son how to drive, he killed it, went to start it and it would not turn over, i thought simple enough, the starter relay was bad, i got out and used a screwdriver to start it on the relay., went and bought a new relay and replaced it, still wont turn over, i thought it might be the clutch sensor, changed it, nothing, took apart the dash to get to steering wheel switch tested it, it is fine, is there a fuseable link somewhere im missing, run out of ideas here, driving me crazy. thanks in advance for the help.
  • dtheman42dtheman42 Member Posts: 1
    hey i have a 93 Ford Ranger and i'm trying to take my dash out to repaint it how would i talke it out i can't figure it out.
  • burnselkburnselk Member Posts: 6
    My "Check Engine" like came on one day and has been on for at least a year now. When this light came on it did not seem to change the way the truck runs nor did it seem to effect in the gas mileage.

    What could have caused this light to come on and what can I do about it short of taking it to a repair shop? I'd prefer to fix it myself for obvious reasons if at all possible.

    I like to work on such things myself (to save the trouble and $) and would appreciate hearing back from some of you about this. Thanks a million. :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Most auto parts houses, Autozone, etc, will read out codes and tell you the general info for the code.

    They do this in support of selling you parts to fix it.
  • southtxrangersouthtxranger Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 2.5L starts good and runs great until it warms up. Once warmed up it begains to backfire and has no power under load. Sometimes if I feather the trottle off the start (standard tranny) it goes away till the RPM's drop. then it goes back to backfiring and running like crap. Changed the fuel filter, helped for a while, then the plugs, no help. Air filter new but cant get her to run right. Any ideas?.......Jim
  • brillopad27brillopad27 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I can not lock/unlock my passenger side car door with a key anymore. I opened up the door panel and found that the lock tumbler was not attached to anything and a long metal piece with a plastic and metal clip attached to it fell down. What I need to know is how to reinstall the metal piece so that I can lock/unlock my door from the outside again?

    Thanks!
  • burnselkburnselk Member Posts: 6
    Your best bet would be to stop by your local Ford dealer and talk to the "Parts Department". They can look it up on their computer and show you a picture of what you need and tell you how to do it. They can also sell you the parts you may need. Good luck on that. My drivers side lock is giving me trouble.....takes me a couple of minutes to get it unlocked.....people think I'm trying to steal my own truck....I have to wiggle and jiggle the key just right to get it unlocked.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Open up the door on the other side and look at the linkage there. It should be a mirror image.

    It probably just came loose, or the clip on the end broke.
  • estbndtrvlrestbndtrvlr Member Posts: 1
    I have had to replace 3 coil packs, they keep shorting out.
    This happens the moment that I install it and try to start it up.
    It will start but it will short out the number 4 cylinder and
    get no fire to number 4 and miss-fire on the rest.
    Any help would be greatly welcomed.

    Thanks
  • sethmandysethmandy Member Posts: 1
    I am wondering what is going on with my cruise control... It just stopped working...
    I last used it about 6 months ago and I tried to use it recently and it just wont turn on. It used to work and there arent any other problems with the truck...I checked all fuses and they all seem to be working fine.I heard about this recall, could it be related to this??? I need some help thanks :cry:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My truck ran and started fine all day. I have noticed that my positive cable will corrode lately and I've cleaned it dilligently. Well, tonight when I took my wife to the tanning shop it wouldn't start when we were ready to leave. All it does is click once. I cleaned the battery cable ends and posts. The battery is new. I messed with all the relays in the power distribution box and still nothing. I had a buddy come over and we tried arcing across the solonoid, but still nothing. When I keep turning the key over and trying to start it the locks will engage and disengage??? Is this something to do with the anti theft? Where is the anti theft relay? :confuse:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I started out the negative cable needed a new connector. Then I swapped all the relays around in the power distribution box. Still nothing. Guy at the Autozone said there might be some more relays underneath the dash. I found them and swapped them around and got nothing! I got to looking at the starter relay and figured it would be easy to change so I changed it. The truck still wouldn't start. I found my remote and changed the batteries to try and mess with the alarm system. I would hit the panic button and lock and unlock the doors. Next, I decided that I would tackle the starter since there is nothing open this weekend. Well, I finally got it off and had it tested. It failed! I put the new starter in and it fired right up! :)
  • jdizzle22420jdizzle22420 Member Posts: 4
    My truck wont start I have a 96 ford ranger 2.3 i try to start all I get is clicking..Some times i get lucky and it will start. I replaced starter and starter solenoid but still wont start> even tryed bypassing the clutch saftey switch and no start. Wierd Plz help. :mad:
  • jdizzle22420jdizzle22420 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem..i replaced the solenoid and starter and i just get a clicking noise. If u find out the problem let me know plz :sick:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad battery or cables. Corrosion inside rubber insulation of the cables.
  • dirtyhands67dirtyhands67 Member Posts: 3
    My '93 3.0 liter has intermitant fuel pump failure. This has gone from every few months to a few times weekly. Originally it was only at start up (would fire but immediately shut down and not fire again) then it started shutting down sometimes at idle and now it may shut down anytime while driving. This happens if the engine is hot or cold and if weather/humidity is wet or dry. letting the truck sit will cause the problem to go away but this has gone from a few minutes to hours to days.

    I have changed the fuel filter, swapped relays and finally changed the fuel pump,but the trouble remains.

    I now believe the problem is in the power distribution box. If the contacts are dirty/corroded or loose changing/swapping the relays won't solve the trouble. Also could be a poor ground to the box.

    I'm going to try cleaning the contacts with electrical contact cleaner and oxy-acetylene torch tip cleaners. I will post if this solves the problem.

    If any one knows/has any other ideas of possible solutions or problem areas please reply. This seems to be a fairly common problem. Thanks and get dirty.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    And buy new relay/s? Swapping might not work if all of them have a problem.
  • cdemapancdemapan Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my Ford Ranger 2000. The odometer stopped working, the windows won't open, and the windshield wipers won't turn on. Did you figure out your problem? Any advise? Thanks.
  • life_is2life_is2 Member Posts: 5
    I HAVE A '04 RANGER XLT SUPERCAB THAT HAS A BAD VIBRATION AT BETWEEN THE SPEEDS OF SAY 55-80 MPH. I HAVE JUST PUT NEW TIRES ON THE TRUCK AND HAD IT BALANCED TWICE. I DO HAVE THE SINGLE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT AND NOTHING UNDERNEATH SEEMS TO BE LOOSE. I DO HAVE A SLIGHT LEAN TO THE DRIVER SIDE OF THE TRUCK BUT I DON'T THINK THAT HAS TO DO WITH THE VIBRATIONS. I ALSO TOOK THE TRUCK TO NTB HERE RECENTLY AND THEY INPESCTED THE SHOCKS AND SAID THEY SEEM TO BE OK. SOMETIMES THE VIBRATIONS SEEM TO BE LIKE A SHOCK STARTING TO GO BAD AND HOPS FROM TIME TO TIME. LIKE IS SAID IT SEEMS LIKE THIS BUT I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT THIS VIBRATION COULD BE. THE TRUCK ONLY HAS 24,000 MILES ON IT RIGHT NOW. I RECENTLY BOUGHT IT FROM AN ELDERLY MAN.
  • xlt2x2xlt2x2 Member Posts: 2
    I hooked a diagnostic reader to my ranger after getting the dreaded CHECK ENGINE light......It is stating evap sysytem pressure high........Any ideas as to where I should begin my quest? Something plugged? Causing high pressure? Many thanks for any help.......
  • xlt2x2xlt2x2 Member Posts: 2
    Evap Sys High Press--code??? HELP........ASAP
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    WAG (Wild a** guess). Your gas cap is off or loose or doesn't seal?

    When functioning correctly, vacuum is applied to the gas tank vent hose, to pull fumes into the charcoal recovery tank. If the vacuum cannot be pulled, it sees 'high pressure'?

    Bad gas cap. Bad vent lines. Bad canister. Any or all of the hoses of this system. There may be relays and vacuum switches also in this system that have failed.

    P.S. This is another reason to not run the vehicle when you are fueling it, you may set a check engine light. Main reason, is you may blow up.

    P.P.S. This also shows that having a code reader, and know the definition of the code set in some cases may not give you much of any hint at all as to what is wrong. You need a factory service manual, which has procedures to run for error codes.
  • preloaderpreloader Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 1988 Ranger XLT 2.3L 5 Spd 2wd with 104,000 miles. At 1,800 rpms a vibrating/buzzing noise starts and goes away after about 2200 rpm. It does this regularly through all gears. The sound is like a piece of sheet metal vibrating against another piece of metal. The truck is fine other than a noisy power steering pump. Thought it was the shiny aluminum rim pieces but they seem pretty snug. Any help? Its very annoying/embarrassing.
  • bigbill42436bigbill42436 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4WD w/ a 4.0. I am wondering if it is normal to have your power steering pump constantly whining as if it is low on fluid,(even though itis full), or is there a deeper problem such as pump going out? Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance :)
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    I went to the auto parts store the other day to get filters for my 1999 Ranger with 3.0 flex engine. The parts person looked up the filters that I needed and asked if I wanted a cabin air filter. I told him I didn't know I had one. He said that he showed one listed for a '99 Ranger, and he showed me on his computer that it was indeed listed. When I got home I checked my owner's manual and my Haynes manual and neither mentioned a cabin air filter. I then checked behind the glove box as well as in the engine compartment near the firewall, but I could not find one. Does anyone know if there is one on a '99 Ranger and where it would be?
  • jdizzle22420jdizzle22420 Member Posts: 4
    USUALLY THE AIR CABIN FILTERS ARE LOCATED OUTSIDE THE CAR UNDER THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. THERE SHOULD BE VENT HOLES AND UNDER THAT VENT IS THE CABIN AIR FILTER. USUALLY U CHANGE IT WHEN U NOTICE UR A/C OR HEAT SMELLS OLD OR MUSKY LIKE. HOPE THAT HELPED
  • straw2goldstraw2gold Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Ford Ranger with 125,000 miles. 2.3L engine. When I accelerate, regardless of RPM, the engine will cut out. If I baby the gas pedal, and I mean really baby it, I can get the truck up to free way speeds without too much coughing and choking. But accelerating normally is totally out of the question at this point. The problem seems to be getting worse and worse as time goes by.
    I have replaced the plugs and wires, and the EGR valve. I have cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner. Nothing has helped. A mechanic buddy of mine told me to change the fuel pump. That is expensive, so I don't want to do that unless I have too. Your thoughts please. Thanks!!!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fuel filter?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think Ford power steering pumps whine more than other vehicles.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've never heard of a Ranger with a cabin filter.

    There can be errors in the parts data bases.
  • straw2goldstraw2gold Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I forgot to mention that. I have installed a new fuel filter. I also ran a full can of BG44K, with a full tank of gas, through the fuel system.

    Thanks.
  • propr2propr2 Member Posts: 1
    If the symptoms return when shifting, you should check the two wires to the TCS on the shifter stalk. At higher miles, the wires may chafe and/or break on the top of the steering column where they make a right angle bend coming out of the hollow shifter. This can cause a momentary short to ground when moving the lever. Access for inspection by removing the upper column trim.
  • cuccarocuccaro Member Posts: 3
    About 20,000 miles ago my ranger blew the rack and pinion seals both sides. I am now faced with the same problem. I wonder what is wrong. Is possible that the pump is over pressuring?
  • yamahammer87yamahammer87 Member Posts: 1
    Im having the same problem on the same model. i just replaced the high pressure hose from the steering pump (had a pinhole leak) and as soon as i did that the seals on the rack and pinion gave out.
  • cuccarocuccaro Member Posts: 3
    Thanks,. If I come up with an answer I'll let you know
  • tater4tater4 Member Posts: 1
    AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HAS WHAT IS CALLED A LOCK-UP CONVERTER AND WHEN IT STAYS IN THE LOCKED MODE IT IS THE SAME AS TRYING TO STOP A STANDARD WITHOUT PUSHING THE CLUTCH IN.... IT STALLS OUT. YOU CAN REPAIR IT OR UNPLUG IT.... THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN UNPLUGGED BUT IT WILL RUN AND STOP JUST FINE.
  • 1slick11slick1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone. I am driving a 2000 Ranger with a 2.5L 4 cylinder. Lots of valve clatter in the lower range of 2nd and 3rd gears. Any suggestions on what to do without an expensive repair job?
  • kkrasekkrase Member Posts: 1
    i have '98 4.0. while driving lost acceleration and then died. had it towed home. have changed fuel filter, alternator, crankshaft timing sensor. it will run for about 1.5 secs and die. yesterday black smoke came out exhaust. any suggestions?
  • burnselkburnselk Member Posts: 6
    A friend told me it has to do with a computer chip that runs your entire fuel and ignition system. You'll have to ask a qualified ford mechanic about this computer chip.
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    I will soon be changing the plugs in my '99 Ranger with 3.0 Flex Fuel engine. I am curious as to what brand and type of plug other Ranger owners are using and why. Also, someone told me to use antisieze on the threads. My Haynes manual doesn't mention this. Should I or shouldn't I?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    What would be wrong with using the same ones that Ford put in the truck? This should be found on a sticker under the hood, or in your owner's manual.

    I've never used anti-seize. Are you going to be changing them again when needed in 50/75/100,000 miles?
  • life_is2life_is2 Member Posts: 5
    I HAVE A VERY BAD VIBRATION NOW BEGINNING TO SHOW UP AS LOW AS 45 MPG AND UP. I HAVE RECENTLY CHANGED A BAD DRIVERS SIDE BALL JOINT AND DID NOTHING TO HELP. (EVEN THOUGH IT WAS BAD) IT SEEMS TO TAKE PLACE MORE SO ON THE FREEWAY ESPECIALLY WHEN I AM BEGIND A BIG TRUCK OR COASTING DOWN A HILL. IT FEELS LIKE A SHOCK HOPPING UP AND DOWN. BUT PUSHING UP AND DOWN ON THE TRUCK THEY SEEM TO BE FINE. I DO HAVE A ONE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT SO I DON'T THINK IT IS THAT. THE U JOINTS HAVE NO PLAY AT ALL BUT I HAVE NOT TAKEN THEM OUT TO INSPECT THOROUGHLY. CAN SOME ONE GIVE ME ANY ADVICE ON WHAT ELSE I COULD CHECK AND IF THERE IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 04 FORD RANGERS'
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    use autolite double platinum and also use anti-seize
  • kmazzottakmazzotta Member Posts: 1
    My truck's driver side brakes have been making a noise "on and off" for three years. I only use the truck for recreational purposes. In 2007 I was in an accident with my truck, slammed into on the front fender driver side, so initally I thought the noise had to do with the repairs. Returning it to the repair shop, they checked it out, greased the caliper bolt and the noise went away for awhile. Because I don't drive the truck that much, when the noise returned I took it to our local Ford garage where they replaced the excluder seals. Again the noise went away for awhile, but when it "came back", I took it to Ford and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors. When again the noise came back, I took it in once more. The tech disassembled the brakes, lubricated the slides and backing plates. They say everything looks good, no damage or abnormal wear. The next week the noise was back again big time. I'm taking it back in to the repair shop but seriously, am I just stuck with a noisey brake? When the brake is applied, the noise goes away. My daughter offered a suggestion because she had a noisey brake on her VW Passad. She said it was a brake pad spring. Because the brake pad was replaced by Ford, I would think that problem could be eliminated. Anyone have a suggestion?
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    if the brake noise goes away when you apply the brakes it sounds like you might need to add a shim or 2 between the pads and calipers and i would also bleed the system too. most new pads come with extra shims if needed but i,m sure you could get just them too. also quit wasting you money at a over priced dealership all your money goes toward advertising, try a local a small local shop if you need help. good luck
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    it sounds like you have a busted cord in one of your tires ,they will balance out fine on a machine, but when they are on the road there will be a lump and the tire will hop, run your hand along the tread and fell for a lump. or you could put on your spare on one tire at a time til it goes away and you will find the bad one, good luck
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    it sounds like you have a busted cord in one of your tires ,they will balance out fine on a machine, but when they are on the road there will be a lump and the tire will hop, run your hand along the tread and fell for a lump. or you could put on your spare on one tire at a time til it goes away and you will find the bad one, good luck
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