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Thanks,
Daniel
Any help with this???????
but anyway, the point is that the test drive showed me that 146 foot pounds of torque in the right place, can move a shortbed regular cab Ranger pretty quickly.
Yes you can blow hot air with the A/C on. But it will be filtered through the A/C system with less humidity.
mjbwrtr--->If your engine is broken in, and that milage seems a little low for your driving habits, just try the old standby's on increasing performance. K&N Filter, Removing the air silencer/snorkle, using zmax, getting a cab or tonneu(sic) cover. Heck, during the winter I remove my A/C belt and enjoy 22-23 MPG on my old '93 2.3l with auto and 138,000 on the ticker.
eharri--->There's not much on the street 4 banger wise that can lose me. (Pickup on the pickup wise). Of course I talking automatics vs Automatics, or something with more than a coffee can for an exhaust tip.
no strange noises since and no problems. i am sure someone, somewhere else, has done this before...any advice? i am under warranty...should i take it into the service department on monday and admit what a retard i am?
I should mention that back in July they also tried to fix the problem by re building the transmission. I really think they don't know what the problem is, or just don't want to fix it. I am so sick and tired of this truck it gives me headache every time I drive it.
This august I purchased a 2001 4x4 4.0L 5sp auto 4door ranger. I like it overall except for annoying sounds/rattles:
My engine has knock/rap/ping when accelerating hard (see messages 241-243). Had a Ford shop foreman test drive it. We then drove a new 2002 same model ranger and it had the same noise. I also drove my friend's ranger with the same engine. his too has this characteristic noise. dealer said to drive it - he didn't think it was a problem.
There is a loud noise in the headliner in the area of the passenger sun visor. sounds like crackling glue.
There is a noise in the drivers door that sounds like something metal hitting the glass of the window. (when window is closed)
The worst noise is coming from below or behind the cab and somewhere along the drivetrain. It sounds like a metallic pinging/ringing and is evident at speeds of 45mph and higher. Real annoying on the highway. Its going back to the dealer for a second try at fixing it.
There was also a rattle from the glovebox - maybe a hinge/bracket or something.
Anyone else heard these?
let us know what you find, I'm looking for the noise you mention behind the cab, but only when the left side hits a bump. I found both the cables on the tailgate rattle when you hit a bump, inside mine is very quiet. I do however have the engine noise under acceleration. I don't think it will hurt anything. If it does before 36K its Ford's problem. Again, let us know if you find the under body noise.
Reliability is my main concern.
Will it be as reliable and maintenance free as my Toyota was.
No anti-toyota lectures, please; your candid observations about the Ranger will be much appreciated.
Rangers can last a good long time, given proper care. My 93 is still ticking away. Regular cab with 2.3l 4cylinder, and A4LD 4 speed automatic. I have 138 thousand miles, and the drivetrain is still under warranty... But that's because I use zmax. I have never had to take the valve cover off for maintenance or repair, and still get over 21 MPG in the city(slightly more if I remove the A/C belt during winter). I had this truck since I was 16, so you know it's seen it's share of abuse. I did replace the auto trans at about 115 thousand miles, but that's what you get for drop shifting it at 4000 RPM to do burn outs at the high school parking lot. Plus I never changed the trans filter till afterwards. Only other things replaced were was the Radiator waterpump and thermostat at about 125 thousand miles. Original alternator still powers my 650watt stereo system(I did upgrade battery to 1045 CCA). But I still get 5 quarts out with each oil change (no oil burning, rings still good) and still feel motivated to wax it because it's held up great over the years.
To sum up: Ford makes some of the toughest trucks around. As I've matured and been through a few mechanic jobs I know what to do to keep it running pretty much like it's new. And it's soo nice not having car payments for the past 4 years. Just be picky when buying, and do all you can preventative maintenance wise and you'll have a loyal dependable truck.
The local Ford dealer diagnosed it as a Blend Door problem ($75 to find this out), and tells me it will cost $625 to replace the Blend Door because the entire dash has to be dismantled. I am quaking at the thought of all the problems these guys will introduce by dismantling my truck.
Ever hear of this problem?? Any tips?? I am trying to find out more about it or hope that God makes it start working again.
Oh yeah....... Merry Christmas!!!!
I called Ford Customer Service and pleaded my case and asked for help in paying for the repair. (truck is out of warranty).
The next day they agreed to pay half of the repair. Not bad and I thought it was pretty fair.
Mileage on my 6cyl 3.0 is 20 in Summer and 18 in Winter.
So, it could be tire problems, especially if they are orginial with 60,000+ miles. New tires, balance, alignment might solve this problem.
I don't know of any other problem with this year, except the long standing 3L pinging problems.
There have been lots of problems with chimes and various warnings not stopping when the doors are closed because the 'door open' switches are bad. And these switches are inside the doors, not in the jam. I think these might have been fixed by 1999.
With extended cabs, there sometimes are problems with the split driveshaft and the center bearing. I've haven't had this problem. This can also feel like tire balance problems sometimes.
The 3L pinging problem - goes back 10 years or so. Many, many 3L ping, and nothing can be done about it. There is a TSB and dealers can change out the 'coil pack', not sure what years might be effected by this. One trick I've heard dealers will do on a used truck is fill it up with premium so it will not ping on your test drives. Running mid or premium grade is about the only solution to the ping. So, you might think about either living with ping, or buying higher grade gasoline in a motor that should run on regular grade.
Other than these issues, I think the 3L, and Ranger is a great truck. And, it of course is a truck and will not run like a car. And gas milage will suck.
At 60,000+ miles, I would replace the plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, transmission fluid, antifreeze (unless you have receipts this has been done already). You should then be ready for another 40,000 miles...
For my 94, a 4L, 'I Love My Truck'!
the dealership, i thought, would have maintained it, and so i checked the oil and steering fluid, and i smelled the tranny fluid but didnt check the level since it shifted fine. any thoughts? i am used to a stick and this crap is a little annoying.
1993 2.3L Regular cab, A4LD Automatic. 137,800 Miles on the clock.
Repairs to date:
Rebuilt Transmission
2 New Thermostats
1 New Water Pump
1 New Radiator.
1 New set of hoses.
2 New front rotors.
2 Timing belts
about 40 spark plugs (8 plugs remember)
1 New Muffler
Well my transmission was probably my fault, because having the truck since I was 16, I thought it was cool to rev the engine in neutral, and then drop it into gear for a little peel out. Trans replaced about 110k, and I learned that Transmission filters should be replaced about every year. (Never did it until then).
The radiator and water pump and t-stat just got a little rusty and filled with scale. Heater core still good. All this done at around 120k miles.
Muffler rusts from my short commute to work, about 10-15 minutes. The exhaust just starts to get heated up by the time I pull in to park. Merlin's lifetime warranty replaces it about every 3 years or so(for free).
I no longer drive like a nut, and I do all the maintenance myself. Given all the trials and tribulations I've put my truck through, I know what "Built Ford Tough" means.
Still get over 20 MPG in the city. Very reliable, especially since this truck was dogged hard when I was a teenager. I'm thinking of waiting until the 2003 redesign to purchase my next Ranger because this one is paid off and running fine. Hopefully they will offer the 4.0l in regular cab 4x2 again!
So I'm writing again to remind the casual readers that people with car problems are more likely to [non-permissible content removed], and those without car problems are more likely to just drive happy. Hopefully my experience can be yours as well.
"I thought it was cool to rev the engine in neutral, and then drop it into gear for a little peel out. " Plus I never did ANY maintenace on it for about 5 years. This includes trips to South Padre (racing Wranglers on the beach) and Arkansas (Going up and down the Buffalo River area Mountains). Takes a licking and keeps on ticking... or proven Built Ford Tough in my mind's eye.
but like we're talking in the other Ford Ranger thread, the transmission needs new filters and fluid every once and a while...
Now I know... and knowing is half the battle...
You are indeed correct about the text drive. I did NOT drive it near long enough or FAR enough on SMOOTH pavement [hence I did not notice the driveline vibration as much]. As for the OTHER problems I've had, NONE of them would have shown up on a test drive: Bad turn signal switch, shorted left front headlight, defective right door window motor, right rear door seal came off, rear slider leaks in the upper right corner, an exhaust hanger bolt missing [it evidentally came out], and very rough shifts on 5 speed auto tranny [this makes me real nervous..perhaps it is the SOURCE of my vibes problem ??? The dealer is too incompetent to trouble shoot it..or..UNWILLING]. All of these had developed over time in the 14300 miles I have driven it. I still basically WANT to like the truck. Unfortunately, I got stuck with a "Blue Oval" dealer [Ford's idea of a joke !] Yes, it is a 20 000 dollar lemon. You are correct. I just wonder how many OTHER ones there are out there. If I can sell this thing, I will buy a Tundra. Happy Holidays.
2. The rear engine seal may be leaking. It is very hard to tell if this is the problem or pan gasket. I am told both can be a probelm on the 4.0 Ranger engines.
3. The pan gasket may break down over time and "squeese" out and allow a drip.
Most tell me it is a $600 job to pull the engine to fix the rear seal and pan gasket. I have disided to put up with slight drip rather than pull the engine. (the truck has 93K miles) I am hoping the fiber washer and new type plug is the problem but looking at oil on the upper side of the pan, I doubt it is the plug.
It appears to me that it is a poor design to have to pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket.
Any better advice? Thanks!
A. B . Hair
2. The rear engine seal may be leaking. It is very hard to tell if this is the problem or pan gasket. I am told both can be a probelm on the 4.0 Ranger engines.
3. The pan gasket may break down over time and "squeeze" out and allow a drip.
Most tell me it is a $600 job to pull the engine to fix the rear seal and pan gasket. I have disided to put up with slight drip rather than pull the engine. (the truck has 93K miles) I am hoping the fiber washer and new type plug is the problem but looking at oil on the upper side of the pan, I doubt it is the plug.
It appears to me that it is a poor design to have to pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket.
Any better advice? Thanks!
A. B . Hair
another place that leaks in a 2.3 is on top of the bellhousing. there are three holes on the back of the engine on top of the bellhousing. there are three rubber plugs that go in these holes. after some time they get hard and start to leak. oil runs down the back left side of the engine and looks like it is comming from the rear seal. it is not. be sure where your leak is. you can get the 3 plugs i'm talking about from ford. they come in a package of three and cost about $6.00 you can install from underneath. they hard to get to in the blind but you can stick a screw driver in the side of the plug to get them out. then take a socket extension 1/4" drive and push in the detent of the plug to get it all the way in. (don't push it so hard it goes inside) It fixed mine, that had started to leak about 100K. It was a 90 2.3L. sold with 179,000 and NO leaks. if you need more info contact: [email protected]
My rear brakes are squeaking terribly. It initially started a couple of months ago. I took the truck to the dealership and they found some rust on the rotors and simply cleaned it off. That stopped the problem for a little while, but now it's much worse than before. I guess my question to you is, did you have to argue w/ them before they replaced your rear drums?? I really like my truck but little things like this annoy me, especially since the truck is only 9 months old.
I also think there is alternative composition of pads/shoes that are less prone to squealing.
I'm not a brake expert by any means, but hopefully you can get it fixed one way or the other.
Is this unusual? I still have the factory exhaust system and factory battery. I had the serpentine belt replaced last year for safety sake, but that is it. The truck was never garaged until 1999. It does have that ping people talk about, but only on hills where I am in too high of a gear.
It has used a bit of oil since day one, about 2 quarts per change. I hardly drive it now, so I expect to keep it forever.
The only issue I have is the check engine light comes on occasionally, but I think it is the oxygen sensor. For all the more I drive it, and because performance and fuel economy don't seem to suffer, I'm gonna let it go for awhile.
If it's always been using oil, maybe it was improperly broken in? But as long as you aren't suffering in milage or power, it can't be that bad, just less oil to recycle...
How many miles do you have?
Check engine light could be about anything, sensor wise. Instead of "check engine" it might as well say, "Pull my Codes"
I had the first oil change at 1500 miles. The next oil change, I noticed it was using oil, about 1 quart. I brought it in to have it looked at, and asked them to replace the PCV valve.
They did this for me, but could find nothing wrong and said the oil consumption is normal. Of course, it says that in the manual too. THis was unusual for me, since my '77 maverick never used a drop even when it went to the graveyard.
I agree about the check engine light. It will come on for awhile, then go out, then on again later, etc. I will change the oxygen sensor as soon as I figure out how and see what happens.
Those lifetime muffler warranties are great for people who keep their cars awhile. WHat year and mileage is your ranger?
Good little truck that was my first purchase, and I probably will replace it with the new design in 2003. Driven it since 94, when I was 17, so it's recieved more than it's fair share of abuse. To date, replaced the rotors 100k, replaced trans at 120kish, replaced radiator, h20 pump, at 130k. Very minimal in light of my early driving habits... Still getting over 20 MPG in the city.
Thanks to all of you, I was able to shop smarter and ask tons of questions.