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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • life_is2life_is2 Member Posts: 5
    i just put new tires on it and it was doing the same with the old tires so i don't think it would be the tires but you never know. just curious if shocks can start to go bad and bounce from time to time or do they just go bad. also can a u-joiunt cause vibrations even if there is no play in the drift shaft at the rear end. everything seems to be tight.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    when a shock wears out they will let the truck just bounce up and down when you push on it or hit a bump driving, if you are going to replace them anyway go ahead and see what happens, try jacking up the rear axle and setting it down on jack stands with the tires off the ground and put it in gear as if driving and see if you can make it vibrate, if so then its not a shock or bad tire but it could be a unproperly balanced tire i always have the use stick on weights by the way, or you have a bad u joint or posably you lost a weight off the drive shaft
  • life_is2life_is2 Member Posts: 5
    thanks i will check tommorrow
  • jo999jo999 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a Ford Ranger and would like to fit a 'bench seat' to enable 3 people to travel in it. Does anyone if this is poss and where I might obtain a seat from?
    Many thanks
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    My '99 Ranger with 3.0 engine, automatic, and 2 wheel drive just turned 72,000 and still have the original Firestone tires. I think it is time to put some new tires on. The original tires were never good on wet pavement and worse on snow and ice. I live in northern Ohio, so I need all season tires that are very good on snow and ice. I would like to hear from other Ranger owners who can suggest tires that they have had good experience with.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Monday I get my four new snows with steel rims installed Bridgestone Blizzaks. I was assured by a mechanic that these are suitable for the eastern Ontario Canada winters. We get a heck of alot of snow. See the following link:

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+D- M-V1&partnum=475R6DMV1&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes
  • betsy662betsy662 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Ranger, while I was hauling some stuff to the dump, she quit running all of a sudden, I tinkered with it a little bit, got it to start again, went down the road a couple miles, as it seemed to be running just fine, however, when I went to turn a corner, she stopped running again.

    I'm just wondering, it seems to not be getting fuel, its got a brand new fuel pump in it, was just put in in April, I'm trying to diagnose to see if its a problem other than the fuel pump, anyone who has had to change one knows why I would look and eliminate any other possibility.

    Is there anything between the ignition switch and the fuel pump that can cause the problem at hand?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff switch. Passenger footwell, near the center, just behind the top of the carpet. There is a pushbutton to reset it.

    But if it is open, the fuel pump doesn't run at all. Now there are connections there that could be starting to have problem. The truck is now 15 years old...

    Other possibilities, and probably a better possibility, is the fuel pump relay. There are beside or inside the fuse box under the hood are I think up to 3 identical relay boxes. If their plug in connectors are getting dirty, this could be the problem. Or could be failing. I don;t know which is the fuel pump one. Wiggle them around. Switch them around, they are all the same. Buy 3 new one. If you can decide which is the fuel pump, buy one new one.
  • betsy662betsy662 Member Posts: 2
    Tis true that the truck is 15 years old, also in a humid environment, so its completely possible that the contacts are going bad.

    On mine,t he fuel pump relay is the one in the center, there is a diagram underneath the power distribution top, so that I found, I will look into it further tomorrow when I have the day off.

    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I usually don't recomment 'throwing parts' at a problem, without a diagnois, but the relays are something that fail rather often. I think one would be about $25 or so at a parts house, not Ford.

    Might be worth it to just buy one and replace it and see if your problem stops.
  • vft32vft32 Member Posts: 4
    My daughter was having a noise in her engine which I diagnosed (correctly I might add) as the tensioner pulley. I had her take it to the Ford Dealer in Las Vegas. The Ranger is a 98 XLT 3.0 V6 Auto 4x4 with less than 75,000 miles on it. They charged $175 for labor and $143 for the part. I was wondering how close that is to "reality"? Her being 450 miles away I wasn't able to change it my self as I've done on my older F150's. They also told her the spark plugs needed changing and a tuneup was needed, the truck runs fine except for the pulley squeal. They wanted another $400 for that! The manual says the plugs are good to 96,000 miles and the Ford Dealer that did the major service on it last July said it in no way need a tuneup at that time 72,000 miles and should be good to 100,000 miles. I had her refuse the tuneup but let them do the 3 month L-O-F and change the Licence plate light bulbs. They weren't happy but did they fix the tensioner pulley issue. What is with these dealerships now? I had to take my Mountaineer the Ford Delear in Carson City and they wanted to do all kinds of things over and above the warrenty work needed (about $700), which I only paid had to pay them a $50 deductable. :confuse:
  • lou47lou47 Member Posts: 1
    All of the sudden my electric windows and speedometer and dome light dont work.Is there one relay that controls all.The 10 and 20 amp fuse are fine?Thanks Lou
  • mymule3mymule3 Member Posts: 1
    Is the ign. module numbered as the engine firing order or as a distributor?
  • jmatch003jmatch003 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 Ranger's check engine light came on and I had the codes checked. The reading said that I had a missfire on each of the four cylinders. The only sign of a miss is on the highway at higher speeds. The check engine light will flash and the truck will bog down. It will stay that way for a little bit and then the miss stops and the truck runs good again and the light goes back to steady.
    I replaced the coil pack and all the plugs and wires.
    Does anyone have an idea of what this might be?
  • steve278steve278 Member Posts: 2
    I just changed the thermostat and coolant because the temp. wouldn't come up. Now it's worse. No heat at all and the temp. gauge barely moves. What do you think?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    -What thermostat did you put in it? A 160 isn't going to generate much heat, you need the stock 195.

    -A defective new thermostat, stuck open.

    -A clogged up heater core, or if the system has one of those vacumn operated valves in the heater water line that is frozen closed - this would cause no heat. But, the temperature guage should show heat.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    coolant mix: 50-50? but the mix is probably not the problem. after it warms up, when you feel the "in" heater hose and the "out" heater hose, are the both hot or really warm? if both hot, maybe your cabin air diverter system is screwed-up. however, if the "in" hose is hot and the "out" hose is not, then like bolivar says, blocked heater core or a stuck open/close valve. if, on the other hand, neither hose is hot, then perhaps there is a blockage farther down the line. a simple test for the heater core:set the heater to full heat, take both heater hoses off. then rig up a garden hose to force water into/out of the core.it does not have to be a water tight seal..if the water flows freely, it ain't blocked and you do not have a valve problem. If the water does not flow freely, put the garden hose on the other side of the core (if you had it on the "in" side, put it on the "out" side) you also state your temp gauge barely moves: if your 89 is like my 91, the sensor wire for your temp gauge connects very near the thermostat housing; it is a single wire with a connector with a push/pull connector to the stud. next time the truck warms up, you may want to pull the connector off to see if you notice a difference in the temp gauge reading--could be a bad sensor or bad gauge (not likely). and while you have it off, clean up the stud and connector , maybe you have a bad connection. please take my advice with the caution that I do not have any professional training,just basing my suggestions on years of tinkering.
  • steve278steve278 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestions, however the problem has been fixed by replacing the thermostat with ANOTHER new one. Again, thanks for the help.
  • klinea7klinea7 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem windshield wipers, speedometer, odometer, dome light al dont work. tried a new wiper motor and thats not the problem, also tried a multi function switch on the steering wheel and thats not the probleb, all fuses are good, Did you ever figure out what the problem is?
  • dsmarshall05dsmarshall05 Member Posts: 2
    I don't know a whole lot about technical terms, so please bare with me. I had an accident 2 years ago and after that I had problems with my truck not wanting to start, it was feeling sluggish and it died on me twice. I thought it was my fuel pump but I was wrong. On my passanger side, under the floor mats (you have to pull it down from the right corner by the wheel), there was my inertia plug which came loose. Once I plugged that in everything went back to normal. Hope that helps you out and anyone else that might be experiencing that problem.
  • gconwaygconway Member Posts: 1
    Used the pully and it won't budge. Any reason why it won't budge? Any info would be helpful.
  • richgsi1richgsi1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 and when I have it in 4 wheel drive the fron end pops really hard like I am hitting a big pot hole. Before it pops it feels like pressure builds up and the front end gets tight. Has anyone had this problem and if they have what was the problem.
  • angerv8angerv8 Member Posts: 1
    hey my names john and I have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 with the same rough idling problem you're talking about here, if you ever found out what the issue was i'd love to know. thanks J_hall17@live.com
  • rediculisticsrediculistics Member Posts: 1
    take a look a the IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR , a new one should solve your problem its looks like a servo on the air intake
  • 87slammed87slammed Member Posts: 1
    i have 1987 ford ranger with a 2.0 4 cylinder with a 5sp tranny in it and i have had recent problems with it and now when i insert the key into the ignition it will not do anything but turn the lights on in the dash and the windshield wipers and everything will work but when i turn the key to start it doesnt make a sound or turn over could anyone help me out with this problem
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    could be several things causing your problem check your battery bable on the battery and starter make sure they are making good contact, check the clutch safty switch, check your ignition switch and check your starter.
  • bigtom40bigtom40 Member Posts: 1
    Allright heres the deal.Sunday I jumped in the truck afer not driving it friday.goes in 1st,2nd fine went to put it in third its like the shifter was going to hit the passenger door.After the initial shock played with it.It 'll still go in 3 ,4,and5th even reverse.what gives I pulled the boot cover off It seems like its just the shifter.If thats possible did'nt notice really anything loose,cracked,etc.Oh yeah you can also turn the shifter where it will hit the dash. Thanks any help is greatly appreciated BigTommy40
  • skater1skater1 Member Posts: 1
    I would like to disconnect the airbag on my 03 Ranger. Is it possible?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Just take it out.

    Why?
  • hickman69hickman69 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ranger, 2.3 I was driving down the road and it just all the sudden, Nothin! pulled over tried to start it back up and it just doesn't want to start is this a fuel problem or could it be a sensor
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    One usualy problem with this age of Rangers is the fuel pump relay. It is in or beside the fuse box under the hood. There usually is 2 or 3 identical relays in there so you can switch them around.

    Of course, if it is the relay you should NOT be able to hear the fuel pump work when you first turn the car ON, before you start it. If you hear the fuel pump run, it isn't the relay.

    There is also a 'rollover' switch under the end of the carpet, passenger footwell, to the left, on the tunnel actually. These probably hasn't been triggered unless you hit something or hit a big bump. There is a reset button on it. But the wires plugged in here may be loose. But also, if you hear the fuel pump, there is nothing wrong with this either.
  • wordenworden Member Posts: 5
    edited April 2010
    The temp gauge doesn't move from "C". Is it a bad sensor or bad thermostat. Where is the sensor located?
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    I have a 91 ranger, 6 cyl, 4.0L: the "sender unit" which connects to the temp gauge on my instrument panel is located close to the thermostat; it has a single wire running to it with a press-on type fitting which attaches (press-on, pull off) to the stud atop the sender unit itself. Thru Ford parts at the dealership, it is a $20 item to replace the sender unit. if you have problems locating it, reply to this message with your email address attached and I will snap a picture of mine under the hood and send it to you. I don't think i can attach an image in this forum, can I?
  • wordenworden Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much for your answer. I knew there would be someone out there with info. A picture would be worth 1,000 words. My email mworden322@yahoo.com
    If my son can't fix it, at least I know what I'm talking about when I go to the auto shop. Thanks again.
  • wordenworden Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know where to buy the "sender unit" that fits just above the thermostat and sends message to dashboard gauge? What is the name of the part? Need it because temperature gauge stays on "C", doesn't move at all.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    By this message, I assume you were able to locate the sender unit under your hood. If so, when i called the Ford dealership, parts' department, the partsman knew exactly what I needed and he called it the "sender unit". So if you call your local Ford dealership, they will be able to assist you. OR you can try an independent parts store BUT you may get a "universal" part instead of a Ford part and for $20, I say get the Ford part.
  • wordenworden Member Posts: 5
    I found a picture of the engine in my chilton manual and it shows it clearly. Will call Ford dealership on Monday. Thank you so much for your help.
  • kls4kls4 Member Posts: 1
    Check the wire coming from the relay (remove the fuse box under the hood to see the wires). My truck has a black wire with a yellow stripe and the wire was corroded and broken off underneath.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    follow-up to my previous answer: I finally got around to buying a new "temperature sender unit". My local Schucks/OReilly auto parts store could not figure out the proper part number so I was forced to go to Ford for the part. $20. Motorcraft SW-2328; F1SZ-10884-A, "Temp Sender". After I installed the part (easy: cold engine, drain some coolant, take the old unit out, put the new one in, replace the coolant), I stopped by the Schucks/OReilly with the part numbers from the the Motorcraft unit. They found it. Sells for $5. Borg-Warner part.
  • wordenworden Member Posts: 5
    I didn't have anyone to install it, so went to Ford dealership. $23.00 for part, $65.00 to put it in.
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    My 1999 Ford Ranger with 3.0 flex fuel engine has 4 wheel ABS with drums in the back. I want to flush out the system and replace the brake fluid. The technical manual says that a couple special tools are needed in order to bleed the ABS system so that air does not become trapped. Does anyone have experience with this, and know where I can get the special tools?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If you keep the master cylinder from running empty and pulling air into the system, you will not get air into the ABS system. Unless you let a lot of air into one of the wheel cylinders.

    If you do get air into the ABS system, you cannot 'manually' bleed it out. The 'special tools' are electronic equipment that will fire up the ABS pump to purge the air out. Not sure of the cost, but probably expensive. I recommend it you get air in the ABS, you take it to a good brake shop.
  • 99ranger_atbsu99ranger_atbsu Member Posts: 2
    My 99 ranger 3.0 L Flex Fuel has all the sudden been hit with several problems. At one point in time I was on the way to Pennsylvania and I had a catostrophic failure. Oil pump went out going 70 MPH on the highway and the engine seized and was finished. Had a used engine from a '00 ranger put in to replace it and it ran fine. Now it has started shaking when I drive it. No engine light is on and there is no smoke and seemingly no effect on RPM when this is occuring. It just starts shaking really hard when I am accelerating around 55 MPH, and now it has started doing the same thing when I idle. If you keep holding the gas pedal down it continues to shake, but if you let off then press back down it usually will stop doing it for a while. Replaced spark plugs and had a fuel flow test and other diagnostics done at NAPA and they said everything was flowing fine. Can someone please give me an idea? I am in college and I can't afford to keep going back and forth paying 70 bucks a pop just for them to look at it.
  • 99ranger_atbsu99ranger_atbsu Member Posts: 2
    Other problem I have, Drivers side window had been acting up for a long time. Well the receptionist at the shop forgot to write down on the slip for them not to open it. Now it is stuck completely down. The window always goes down perfectly fine like nothing is wrong, but then it wont come back up. Sometimes if you wait anywhere from an hour to a couple of days, it will come up like there was no problem. Again I am limited because I am so young and the university takes a lot of my money, anyone know what part could be causing the problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    try doing a complete tune up, i have changed a few engines and every time i did i had problems so when i have an engine changed thats the first thing i do to avoid having problems is a complese tune up. hope this helps!
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    When it shakes, does it sound like it's misfiring or not getting the air/fuel it wants? If yes, you may want to have a compression test done to make sure everything's firing... one cylinder off-kilter can cause such behavior.

    If it's shaking but otherwise sounds normal, you may want to check the motor mounts... may have been compromised during the swap.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • 96rangerover96rangerover Member Posts: 1
    have a 1996 Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyl. when I take off, it feels real sluggish, and has little power. Once I am going, it is fine. I had it hooked up to a computer it said bad shift selinoid i had it replaced and no change the tranny shop said there was nothing wrong with the unit that the problem is elec and i dont now where to start can anyone help
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you said sluggish, in what sence? bogging down or trans. taking to long to shift?
    if it's taking to long to shift that could be a problem in timing or exaust clogging up exaust could also cause a loss of power making it take to long to gain speed.
    the best way to check exaust is put your hand over the tail pipe with it running to see how much exaust is comming out, if it doesn't have much comming out there are 2 things it could be, flange pipe or catylitic converter. or timing belt might be off just 1 tooth. that would also cause your problem
  • doodlebugguy56doodlebugguy56 Member Posts: 1
    Is it difficult to replace the carrier bearing in a 97 XLT if it has been done before? The carrier bearing only seems to last 20k-30k before it goes. I've had garages do this before. I'm trying to cut down on the cost to replace it
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    all you need to do is pull the drive shaft get the new bearing and take the section with the carrier bearing to a machine shop have them to press the new one on and reinstall it. carrier bearings are pressed on the shaft. they are hard to remove yourself using a hammer you can damage your drive shaft.
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