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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • if it says good for all makes and models, yes!
  • For a 1974 v6 with the distributor way in the back, what size socket do I need to turn the distributor?
  • you can use a 1/2" or 13mm
  • I have a 2000 Ford Ranger xlt. The problem I am having is when I put the vehicle in gear and start to accelerate, I'll get up to around 20, 25, 30 or so mph and the engine reving up high, but the transmission hasnt shifted yet. Then all of a sudden the transmission will pop, the transmission will then shift the way it should. Also when the transmission pops, the overdrive light will come on and begin flashing.

    I've had the fluid and the filter changed here recently thinking that might be the problem. Someone has told me about a kick out switch might need to be changed. I've never heard of a kcik out switch on the transmission. And someone else has told me that the transmission needs to be rebuilt.

    Just looking for some different input from folks to maybe give me a idea what could be wrong with it.
  • I have a 93 Ranger with the 3.0 engine. Once in the past few years I had the entire sending unit replaced for a "always on Empty" fuel gauge reading. They gave me the old unit and I quickly discovered gas had leaked into the brass two-piece float (through a tiny hole in the solder where the two halves meet). It sat on the bottom of the tank like a rock, hence the always on Empty reading. Since then the fuel pump seemed to die so again the tank was dropped and just the fuel pump was changed that time, six months ago. I loaned the truck for a while to someone and he informs me the fuel pump is bad. Guys, I'm not buying this crap. There is no way the pump is bad again. My line of thinking says perhaps one or both electrical connections at the sending unit connections is/are faulty and probably where the connectors are crimped onto the wires. Fuel pumps don't just die like this and certainly not repeatedly. The mechanic thinks fuel pumps in the tank "overheat" when the tank isn't kept mostly full at all times and that is what kills them. I say, BS. They don't need to be kept cool by fuel, that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I work on operating tables for a living. If one came to me with the complaint the right leg section won't move, I would possibly change the right leg section motor, check it out thoroughly and send it back out. If that table came back and again with a non-operational right leg section, first of all I'd be suspicious as heck. I may again replace the right leg section motor. If it came back a third time with the same issue, I'd then be positively certain the problem is not the motor. The law of probability isn't in favor of that motor repeatedly going bad, something else is causing the recurring problem. Its the same with this fuel pump. First off, Ford had no business putting pumps inside the tank. Secondly, I have a good mind to modify this setup and move it outside the tank where a: I can get to it without dropping the tank, and b: I'd buy on of those 12 volt decorative LEDs of any color and attach it directly to the very ends of the positive and negative fuel pump wiring. That way I could take a quick look under there and see if the pump is actually getting power or not. No LED lit equals no power. LED lit equals power is there. An easy diagnostic for connections you cannot access without dropping the tank which always seems to be mostly full when this happens. There are issues with Ranger fuel delivery and I don't think it's always the pump! I've had many many fuel injected cars over the years and NEVER have I had to change a fuel pump. And I'm supposed to believe the pump on the Ranger has failed three times? BS. Pumps don't just run all by themselves, they have to have good, solid, reliable electrical connections too, hot and ground or even the best of them isn't going to run. Just a side note, the same truck not long ago had a no run condition, they blamed the fuel pump (citing that the guy had recently replaced a bunch of them), then said I needed to replace the Fuel Injection Computer. I laughed. Repaired it myself, it was THE IGNITION COIL. I don't do "Easter egging" repairs.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First, it's my understand the fuel pump is 'cooled' by the fuel flow. But I think they don't overheat quickly from lack of fuel coverage because you run out of gas before they overheat.

    But second, you may have the right idea about the connectors. When a fuel pump does start to fail, many times it doesn't fail quickly, it draws a higher than normal amount of current (not enough to open its relay) and this excessive current does fry the connector on the top. And this failing connector does not pass current well, which loads the failing pump more, which causes more current flow, and the the pump fails. Sometimes the connector fails first.

    The previous pump might have failed. And weakened the connector. The current problems might be coming from the connector. You would hope that had the connector failed, it would have been noticed while replacing, but maybe not, the damage might be inside the rubber covered area and not easily seen.

    Not sure if you can get to the connector without dropping the tank, but might be worth a try to see if you can pull it off and inspect before dropping the tank again.

    Checking the fuel pump is pretty easy. When you first turn the key to ON you should be able to hear the pump start up to pressurize the system. If you don't hear this, the pump isn't working. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel line on top of the motor and there are hose/valve test sets that attach here. These are two spec for most motors fuel pressure, a 'not running' (key to ON) and a 'running' pressure. Out of spec in either area will cause problems, not starting or performance problems. A decent mechanic should know all this and have the valve/hose and rather quickly know if a fuel pump is working ok.

    You might have a bad connector which, because of bad current flow, caused the latest pump to also fail.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    a fuel pump can last a long time, but if you let a vehicle run out of fuel it can cause the impeller to get worn enough to stop pumping fuel . most fuels have a lubricant to keep the impeller from wearing to quickly.
  • I have a 90 ford ranger,auto trans, 2.9 ltr, while driving it just shut down and now will not re start. Ive checked fuel line and pump and its getting gas, and its also getting spark. Any suggestions
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    it might be water in your gas, try putting gas dryer in your tank
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you might also check your spark plugs
  • After replacing the thermost,radiator cap,heater core,checking vacum hoses,replaice the hoses,I sill was not to get heat,I have a 1964 Ranger 223,000 miles on it,so I decided to check the water pump,the blades were almost gone new water pump solved the prop
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I just got 2 new tires on the rear wheels, same brand, model & size as the front, Continental Contritrac. They now feel very "mushy" when I'm driving at highway speeds and change lanes, it's pretty bad as I thought I was going to lose control.

    Anything to double check besides the pressure and lug nuts before calling them?
  • My 2003 has a rough idle and after the engine warms up the o/d light flashes. After it starts flashing the transmission starts shifting strange, it will have a little shudder after before shifting into 3rd and will shift at higher rpms. The first two gears are perfectly fine before and after the o/d light comes on. The check engine light is on as well. Having the codes pulled revealed that bank 1 is running lean. Is there a single cause that could cause both the engine to run lean and cause the transmission issues The transmission fluid was a little dark so I had the tranmission flushed, but it did not take care of things. The truck had set for a year and all of this came about after it was restarted. I am just looking for ideas. If it was something fairly easy to take care of I would do it...but most likely I will take it to a shop. I am just interested in possible causes, so they do not replace half a dozen things before taking care of the problem. Thanks for any help you can give.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    try turning the od off and see how the shift is, if it shifts ok there is a speed sensor inside the trans atached to the drive shell that might be the problem.
  • I was wondering if you figured out this problem yet because mine is having the same issues.
  • dahermitdahermit Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 two wheel drive, automatic transmission, Ford Ranger that just threw a rod. Unfortunately, I had just filled the gas tank. With the price of gas what it is, naturally I want to salvage the gas in the tank. However, no hose, no matter what the size will go beyond the tank filler tube...there must be an anti-syphan device in the end of the filler tube. Not to be prevented from salvaging the gas, I disconnected the fuel line at the engine, stuck a tight-fitting hose into the gas line and turned on the key, expecting the fuel pump to pump the gas into my container. It did not work...I do not know why...inasmuch as the fuel pump is suposed to activate when the key is in the "on" posistion. How can I recover my gasoline? What is the next step, disconnect the fuel filter under the driver's door (if it has one there)?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    When I disconnected the fuel filter inside the frame under the drivers door on my 1994, the gas flooded out. (I stuck a pencil in it to stop it.) So, if there is still gas up to there, it will siphon itself out. Or at least a lot of it will come out. If you've lost the vacumn, you might have to suck on it to start the siphon. And you are going to taste and belch gas for a couple of days.
  • hudsnickhudsnick Posts: 1
    I have searched through previous posts but none really seem to match my issues. My ranger is 1988 2.0l engine. Truck runs and starts great from a cold start, no power/acceleration issues. It will continue to run good until I turn it off and try to restart while it's still hot. When I try to restart it will crank but not start like it does when cold. Then power seems ok in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear but in 4th gear the power seems to max out at around 45mph (pedal to the floor) and feels like the engine is shaking (almost feels like a flat tire). I just replaced plugs with not much improvement. Would appreciate any advice/thoughts.
  • mharnischmharnisch Posts: 11
    My 99 Ranger XLT with 3.0 flex engine (I only use regular unleaded) and 91,000 miles has just started stumbling on acceleration and also when coming to a stop. It starts fine and most of the time it is OK, only stumbling occasionally. It has yet to stall out. The plugs, wires and fuel filter were changed about 5000 miles ago. Has anyone experienced this problem? What should I check?
  • moz3moz3 Posts: 1
    I have F Ranger 2008, 3LDiesel. I live in Mozambique, so no dealer around here. A staff member filled my Ranger with Petrol. Luckily I realised and did not start the motor. I drained the tank, flushed with Diesel, changed the fuel filter,started the engine, and it is running well. My problem is that the engine warning light comes on when in motion and limits the enigine to 2200rpm. I suppose that this has to be reset? How can I do this myself? Has anyone have a solution?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Hmmmm, I'm really not familiar with your vehicle as you are oversees and I don't believe Ford sells a Ranger with a 3.0L diesel engine. But to reset everything and clear out the codes, over here one of the local auto parts stores will do it for free, or you can just unhook the battery cables for a couple minutes to reset the codes.
  • I have just over 140,000 miles on it. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced along with a brand new radiator. Recently like last week, I noticed when I got on the freeway and going a lil up hill that when I pushed on the gas, it it would sputter. Now it like I cant go over fifty with out it sputtering. When I stop and put it in park, and reeve up the engine, when the odometor reaches 3, it starts sputtering. I have not had a tune up since I had it. I change the oil regularly. Myson has a cheap diagnostic thing you plug in to the truck. The codes say check gas cap and fuel emissions.
    Now the fuel cap light came on about 8 months ago along with the check engine light. But when I looked it up, the check engine light comes on if the cap is malfunctioned. But it has been running fine since then tell now....Any help would be much appreciated.....
  • Had the same problem with my 95 ford, 2.3 , 4 cyl. Never could get a definite answer on forums without replacing all sensors etc. but what did work on mine, so far, is I found a loose or weak contact ground cable on my battery post, Ever since I replace it seems to work like a charm. Also check the fuel pump relay, sometime that could be the answer. Hope you get it fixed.
  • I just want to know what are the best front pads for this truck? semi- metallic or ceramic or what would last longer?
  • i do believe you have either a malfunctioning catalytic converter(clogged) or your tail pipe is partially blocked. Run your garden hose up the tail pipe and see how far it will go up if it stops between the muffller and c.c. measure the hose and mark appox. where
    it stopped on the the tail pipe and proceed to cut the tail pipe with a hack saw or saw zaw and you will find the double walled pipe has folded over and partially blocked gases from escaping the engine creating a loss of power.
  • i do believe you have either a malfunctioning catalytic converter(clogged) or your tail pipe is partially blocked. Run your garden hose up the tail pipe and see how far it will go up if it stops between the muffller and c.c. measure the hose and mark appox. where
    it stopped on the outside of the tail pipe and proceed to cut the tail pipe with a hack saw or saw zaw and you will find the double walled pipe inside has folded over and partially blocked gases from escaping the engine creating a backpressure toward the engine for a loss of power. Exhaust must escape or the engine will indeed lose power and stumble!
    You can also have an assistant rev up your engine and with your hand in front of the tailpipe exit feel the exhuast pressure if it feels weak when it is revved up it may have a clogged pipe or c.c.
  • urhourho Posts: 3
    At 140000 miles, if you replaced the spark plugs recently, I recommend that you replace the spark plug wire set. If you haven't repaced the plugs recently, then replace the spark plugs and the spark plug wires.
  • urhourho Posts: 3
    Get a spray can of mass air flow (MAF) cleaning solvent from your local auto store. Disconnect the battery and remove the sensor from the air intake housing.
    Cleaning that little thingy will probably show some improvement.
  • Good Evening,
    It has been awhile since I posted Last. I have a Ford Ranger 06 XLT .86,000 miles Recently it has been draining Coolant. I Checked Hoses , Checked oil. etc. Engine light did not Come On. Did not over Heat. Temp gage is in the Middle .
    But I smell burnt Coolant off the Engine . Seems to Run OK . Seem is be draining Fluid. I noticed some coolant near the water pump. t-stat area. Hard to see areas. I had a 98 Ranger that had a bad Head Gasket . I know what to Look for. If you have any Ideas . Let me Know. Before I head off to the Ford Garage . Thanks Prayerhiker
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    During cold weather, hose clamps loosen up. First thing I would do is tighten all clamps, radiator and heater.

    But, if you are smelling coolant, you have a leak. Somewhere.

    It might be a leaking seal on the water pump.
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