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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Hmmmm, I'm really not familiar with your vehicle as you are oversees and I don't believe Ford sells a Ranger with a 3.0L diesel engine. But to reset everything and clear out the codes, over here one of the local auto parts stores will do it for free, or you can just unhook the battery cables for a couple minutes to reset the codes.
  • daystarchisdaystarchis Member Posts: 1
    I have just over 140,000 miles on it. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced along with a brand new radiator. Recently like last week, I noticed when I got on the freeway and going a lil up hill that when I pushed on the gas, it it would sputter. Now it like I cant go over fifty with out it sputtering. When I stop and put it in park, and reeve up the engine, when the odometor reaches 3, it starts sputtering. I have not had a tune up since I had it. I change the oil regularly. Myson has a cheap diagnostic thing you plug in to the truck. The codes say check gas cap and fuel emissions.
    Now the fuel cap light came on about 8 months ago along with the check engine light. But when I looked it up, the check engine light comes on if the cap is malfunctioned. But it has been running fine since then tell now....Any help would be much appreciated.....
  • prodrigsrprodrigsr Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem with my 95 ford, 2.3 , 4 cyl. Never could get a definite answer on forums without replacing all sensors etc. but what did work on mine, so far, is I found a loose or weak contact ground cable on my battery post, Ever since I replace it seems to work like a charm. Also check the fuel pump relay, sometime that could be the answer. Hope you get it fixed.
  • bruceingeorgiabruceingeorgia Member Posts: 4
    I just want to know what are the best front pads for this truck? semi- metallic or ceramic or what would last longer?
  • earlray156earlray156 Member Posts: 2
    i do believe you have either a malfunctioning catalytic converter(clogged) or your tail pipe is partially blocked. Run your garden hose up the tail pipe and see how far it will go up if it stops between the muffller and c.c. measure the hose and mark appox. where
    it stopped on the the tail pipe and proceed to cut the tail pipe with a hack saw or saw zaw and you will find the double walled pipe has folded over and partially blocked gases from escaping the engine creating a loss of power.
  • earlray156earlray156 Member Posts: 2
    i do believe you have either a malfunctioning catalytic converter(clogged) or your tail pipe is partially blocked. Run your garden hose up the tail pipe and see how far it will go up if it stops between the muffller and c.c. measure the hose and mark appox. where
    it stopped on the outside of the tail pipe and proceed to cut the tail pipe with a hack saw or saw zaw and you will find the double walled pipe inside has folded over and partially blocked gases from escaping the engine creating a backpressure toward the engine for a loss of power. Exhaust must escape or the engine will indeed lose power and stumble!
    You can also have an assistant rev up your engine and with your hand in front of the tailpipe exit feel the exhuast pressure if it feels weak when it is revved up it may have a clogged pipe or c.c.
  • urhourho Member Posts: 3
    At 140000 miles, if you replaced the spark plugs recently, I recommend that you replace the spark plug wire set. If you haven't repaced the plugs recently, then replace the spark plugs and the spark plug wires.
  • urhourho Member Posts: 3
    Get a spray can of mass air flow (MAF) cleaning solvent from your local auto store. Disconnect the battery and remove the sensor from the air intake housing.
    Cleaning that little thingy will probably show some improvement.
  • prayerhikerprayerhiker Member Posts: 12
    Good Evening,
    It has been awhile since I posted Last. I have a Ford Ranger 06 XLT .86,000 miles Recently it has been draining Coolant. I Checked Hoses , Checked oil. etc. Engine light did not Come On. Did not over Heat. Temp gage is in the Middle .
    But I smell burnt Coolant off the Engine . Seems to Run OK . Seem is be draining Fluid. I noticed some coolant near the water pump. t-stat area. Hard to see areas. I had a 98 Ranger that had a bad Head Gasket . I know what to Look for. If you have any Ideas . Let me Know. Before I head off to the Ford Garage . Thanks Prayerhiker
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    During cold weather, hose clamps loosen up. First thing I would do is tighten all clamps, radiator and heater.

    But, if you are smelling coolant, you have a leak. Somewhere.

    It might be a leaking seal on the water pump.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    when arriving home, with the engine hot, park it on a solid surface, let it run awhile, then leave it there overnight. perhaps you will have drippings on the surface when you check it in the morning; will provide a clue as to where it is coming from.
    get out the little mirrors and flashlights to examine those semi-hidden areas.
    do carefully check all the hose connections--inexpensive fix if that is the problem.
    don't clean anything up on the engine block--if you take it to the repair shop, they will want to inspect it for traces of fluid, etc.
    good luck ! let us know the outcome.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    If there is grease on the bottom of your engine take it to a car wash and pressure clean it you will be able to tell where the leak is a little better,if you don't see any leaks chances are it's blowing out your exhaust. You can still loose coolant out the exhaust without it overheating I am a retired disabled mechanic I have ran into this kind of problem before, hope this helps you!
  • prayerhikerprayerhiker Member Posts: 12
    Thanks , For Your Help. I will take a closer look at it today . PrayerHiker
  • prayerhikerprayerhiker Member Posts: 12
    I took my Ford Ranger 06 for Coolant Leak. Pressure tested . No Leaks No head Gasket problem.
    Thanks for Your Help this Week. PrayerHiker
  • kravercrkravercr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge. The bolt that holds the brake line to the master brake cylinder seems to be leaking. I dry off the area, then I step on the brake, when I look at it, a drop of brake fluid forms on the bolt that's connected the master brake cylinder. Any suggestions to fix this problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    is the bolt below the brake line on the master cylinder?
    if it's below check the brake line to make sure it hasn'worn a pin whole in the line where your clamp goes around it, that would be my guess
    i have not seen any master cylinders that the clamp bolt goes into the fluid cavity.
    hope this helps!
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    I just replaced the rear brakes on my 99 ranger 2wd with 3.0 flex engine. Everything I read about making the initial adjustment is to move the star wheel until there is a slight drag on the drum. I am finding this hard to do because not only does the drum turn, but also the axle, making it hard to tell if there is any drag. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • vft32vft32 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    What was the OEM tire size for a 1998 Ford Ranger, 4x4, 3.0L, Auto Trans with A/C, Supercab, step side?
    Thanks,

    Bob B.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If you access to the truck - all vehicles have a sticker inside the door jam of the drivers door showing the tire sizes and recommended air pressure.
  • vft32vft32 Member Posts: 4
    The sticker is missing, so not available. I had forgotten about that sticker, but I believe the door was replaced years ago when it was a Dealer Rental.

    One source says 215/75R/15 another source says 235/75R/15, I'm wodering which is correct OEM. Need to tell my daughter what size tire would be ok, the 215s would be cheaper than the 235s I'm guessing.
  • akgeminigirlakgeminigirl Member Posts: 1
    Any experts who can help with a rebuild on a 2004 Ford Ranger and living near Orinda, California, able to come by to give some advice on what it would take to reclaim the truck or whether it is a lost cause? Below is a description.

    Black Ford Ranger 2004 - Tow Away
    Vehicle does not start as is. It needs to be towed away, car was towed to residence in a normal tow truck (flat bed not necessary). We used AAA.
    --Vehicle was involved in a rollover accident down a hill.
    --Damage to all sides. Doors do not open. Driver's side window broken
    --Passenger compartment appears intact. Engine compartment mostly intact, with the exception of some buckling in one corner which has displaced the battery.
    --There is a leak (maybe transmission fluid).
    --May be useful for parts only (all four tires look good) or as a project for someone who is knowledgeable. Welcome to come by to look at it.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    the 215/7/R15 or 205/75/R15 s the normal tire size for the ranger trucks
    i have owned a few and all of them had a sticker with this size
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I have a 2008 Ranger 3.0L V6, automatic, extended cab, Sport. It was a cool day so I adjusted the vent so to blow a little bit warmer, but nothing. It doesn't matter how far I adjusted the temp control knob it never warmed up. The engine temp is running normal, indicator is halfway between C and H on the dash board gauge. I couldn't find a fuse in my manual that sounded like that would cause this.

    Any thoughts?
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    edited July 2013
    this advice is from a not-so-skilled shade tree mechanic wanna-be: when the vehicle is warm, feel the heater hoses as they enter and exit the heater core--this would be under the hood at your firewall. if both are warm/hot, then the problem is NOT a blocked heater core. If the hose leading into the core is cold, may be a blockage leading from your block to core. If the hose coming out of the core is cold, may be a blocked core. OR, your problem may be related to a faulty switch on your control panel and have nothing to do with hoses/water circulation. If your controls are activated by vacuum, you may have a broken vacuum line or a bad switch. you can do a visual check under the hood for vacuum breaks: look for small rubber tubing leading here/there and check for holes/breaks (sorry, that is the best I can do). If your controls are not run by vacuum, then probably a faulty switch/relay/wire. The controls operate a damper. When you ask for heat, the control should divert heat from the heater core into the passenger compartment.
  • tgoebtgoeb Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    I have a 97 Ford Ranger 3.0 I'm trying to replace the water pump seems to have trouble with the boat on the air conditioner side can you help me find on the boat on the inside what I have to do to access them
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    The failed part was the air temperature door actuator. There's a good video on youtube that shows how to change it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-36aM360V8
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