Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1…5681011…59

Comments

  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    You are absolutely correct, it his Ranger's problem, not every Ranger's problem. My problem lies in the fact that people are trying to say that it is frey's fault that it vibrates because of poor maintenance. I just don't think so. I highly doubt he is running 90 wt. in the engine. (sarcasm). I imagine he wished he had taken a long long test drive, but hindsight is always 20/20.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    well, if it vibrated and shook like that when he bought, i take it back. but, if it started it when in his possession and care, i would blame it on him. things on trucks have to be greased and lubed pretty often. like i said, i have had three ranger 4x4's, none of them shook, rattled, vibrated, or had any big problems. i think he is just mad he didn't take better care of it and is now having these problems. you are stereotyping and labeling every ranger into these problem areas. just isn't so my main man. especially the new rangers, they are rock solid and in a class alone in terms of small truck looks, available options, performance, and work ability. nothing can match them.
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    If you can show me anywhere in any of my previous post where I berate the Ranger I will give a sparkling nickel. I don't care about the Ranger, because I don't own one. If you remember he did not reach highway speeds on his test drive therefore he didn't feel it vibrate. After purchasing it and driving it like he normally would is when it started to vibrate.

    Just like my Toyota, the dash did not rattle when I test drove it nor did it do it within the next 1000 miles, but it did appear soon after. Was this do to my poor maintenance?

    How can you tell me your 2001 Ranger was rock solid, it had what 7000 miles on it? Hardly a test of whether a truck is rock solid or not. I prefer to start saying such statements when I get around 60,000 miles, that is when you will see the difference in a good truck.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    if 60,000 miles is rock solid... What does 138,800 miles relate to? Titanium? :)

    I think I remember Frey saying that he never had a chance to test the high speed highway travel until well after he signed for the truck. But let's wait until Frey comes back for his 2 cents...
  • 96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    I took tbunder's advice and had the obd done and code P1443 came up. It turned out to be the same thing it was 4 months ago and its the evaporative emmissions control system control valve. What the hell is that? What does it do? Where is it and how do i fix it? Any info appreciated. I would like to get atleast 100000 miles outta this 4.0. There was a customer at Autozone and he said he runs 15w30 and uses Fram oil filter. He has had no problems out of his 95' 4.0 2 wheel drive Ranger and it had 150000 on it. I also took tbunder's advice and bought the Motorcraft filter but stuck with Valvoline 5w30.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    good to see you had your truck checked out. ill see what i can find out on your code. the motorcraft filter is the best filter you can buy. fram's are terrible. valvoline is good oil too. i use to use it in my ZR2's, the synthetic blend.
  • 96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    Thanks tbunder! I think next time i change the oil i'll use synthetic. Went to change my oil and i have one of those filter removers thats contoureed to the filter but the Motorcraft has a rigid bottom whereas the others have flat sides. Tried to get it as tight as i could by hand. Now i gotta get a new filter remover. The wrench is a b1tch to use!
    Also, has anyone here used those chips that improves the engine's power? I heard jetchip was good and also superchip but superchip's site only goes to 95' Rangers.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I also honestly posted (more than ONCE) that 1) I did NOT sufficiently test drive the truck, 2) that I would ENCOURAGE any potential owner of a Ranger to do so and 3) that I had never owned a 4x4 before and 4) I also own a Nissan PU (reliable as a chisel for 179 000 miles). I also STILL believe the Taco is basically better quality and I DID NOT buy one (as I already admitted) because it cost about 4 grand more [that turned out to be a mistake]. IF one can find a Ranger that is assembled correctly, with good fitment and quality control, I believe it will be a good truck. I STILL believe the STRENGTH of the Ranger: low initial cost and strong motor and running gear and the WEAKNESS of the Ranger is the electrical system and the vibration and harshness and obscene rate of depreciation. If you buy a BRAND NEW Ranger you will get killed on depreciation in the first 3 years of ownership [check the numbers yourself on this site or KBB. com.] Many others, including Consumer Reports, will bear this out. Good luck for anyone buying a Ranger. You could very well be happy with it and I hope you are. Seriously consider an F-150 instead, and, if you want the best ride around, with a QUIET cabin, go with a Tundra. IN MY HUMBLE OPINION. (And, no, I am not anti-American. US Army Infantry, VN and Cambodia, 1970..I did my gig for the USA)
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    you don't want to get the oil filter as tight as you can. only a 3/4 turn after it starts to tighten up is fine. if you overtighten, you can damage the rubber seal against the engine, and it will leak from the filter. plus, it will be a pain to get back off. it only needs to be as tight as one's hand can put it on, so one's hand can take it off w/o any wrenches. if you go to full-synthetic oil, use mobil1, as the rest are just oil. use synthetic blend if you want a little more protection. using a full-synthetic on an engine that has a lot of miles on it may be a bad choice. it could cause your engine to leak oil, since the conventional oil usually produces some sludge over the years and plugs any potential leaks. the synthetic oil will clean so good as to open up these leaks and cause oil to leak. every situation is different though, and each engine is different. good luck
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    I believe that the actual reason an older engine may leak oil with a synthetic is because some gasket materials don't expand as much with a synthetic oil as with a mineral oil. The reason that you made up about the sludge sounds pretty convincing though tbunder. You aways seem to find someone to believe your so called "info".
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    please, please visit this site and you might learn something. scan down to the question: "will synthetic oil cause my engine to leak?"

    i know of lots more sites to back up what i said. ill say it again. over time, a conventional oil will cause sludge to form in an engine (not so much as to cause the engine to lock up like toyotas do though)which is quite normal. when this happens, these sludge deposits form in cracks and crevices creating "seals" in potential leakage areas. when one adds synthetic oil to an engine like this, it cleans this crap up and thus loosening the "seal". when this is done, the engine will leak oil out since the seals made by the sludge deposits are now gone and cleaned up.


    http://www.synerlec.com/faq.html


    dont you just feel like an idiot now, notknowing?

  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    That was a hard one to track down, but here's what I found.

    p1443 "Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault."
    It could be a bad purge sensor, or control valve in your fuel system. I would change your fuel filters, and look into having a new fuel pump, or having it serviced. The Control valve closes when you turn off your ignition, and this keeps fuel from returning to the tank. This keeps pressure built up in the fuel lines. So unless you feel like dropping your own fuel tank, I'd recommend taking it to the dealer and have them service it. They can pinpoint it down to a sensor or solenoid.

    Just to be safe, check a few plugs for fouling in case it went to rich (or lean) on you.
  • 96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    Thanks stang for the info. I'm a little low on money and was curious if running the truck like it is would really hurt it? The light usually comes on if i use a certain gas from a certain place.
    As far as what tbunder is sayiny i can back it up myself. I had a 74' Lincoln Cont. w/460 and it had a small leak near the oil pan. I put some Duralube in it (which is near or same as synthetics) and the leak got worse. I have also heard someone from Firestone say the same thing.
  • 96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    How often should you change the tranny fluid and filter? I don't have a 4wheel drive nor do i do any towing. I heard once a year but i think thats bs. Once every 4 or 5 i would think.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    You can try some fuel treatment/cleaner, the stuff you put into the fuel tank that cleans everything from fuel pump to injectors. That might clear out the junk that's messing with the control valve, or sensors.

    Tranny fluid and filter? Depends on how you drive it. High milage or high abuse would definitely warrant a yearly change. Just check the dipstick, and make sure the fluid is a nice red color, and not brown or black. Also check for flakes of black in the fluid.

    My local Firestone will do a transmission filter and fluid for around 49.99 bucks. Pretty good deal, since I once had to pay $2500 bucks for a new automatic transmission on my 93 2.3l. (It now has a lifetime warranty however) This was at 120,000 miles, but I never had changed the filter and was really abusive the truck in my teenage years.
    In short, I'd recommend at least once every other year, or 18-24 months.

    And I liked duralube, but I noticed the much bigger difference with zMax(even after using duralube). But don't use zmax or any other oil lubricant additive on an motorcycle with a slipping clutch! It made my clutch even more slippery... :) ('82 GS1000)
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    What specific type of grease should I use on the slip joint splines on the driveshaft of my Ranger ?? I have been warned NOT to use regular chassis grease. What should I use ? Is there a Ford product I should use ?
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    You can't be real. You sent me to an advertisement page??? The synthetic may clean sludge but that's not the primary reason people had problems with the early synthetic oils. Try doing a little real reasearch, maybe even a Popular Mechanics or such, and you'll get a better perspective of what's really happening. I won't do your homework for you.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    the light after reading this, you truly are ignorant.


    amsoil is very respected, and again, they pretty much back up what i originally told flea96. apology accepted.


    http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/seals.shtml


    OMG.

  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    This is from your link and is exactly what I told you in the first place.

    "Back in the 70's and early 80's some synthetics were not blended correctly and caused engine oil leakage in some vehicles. Basically, the problem is that synthetic basestocks do not react the same way with seals and gaskets that petroleum oils do. PAO basestocks (the most common synthetic basestocks) tend to cause seal shrinkage. If the proper additives are not used, seals will shrink when using a PAO based oil, and leakage will occur".

    I guess you didn't bother to read the link that you posted. You're so busy trying to defend your statement that you end up doing the opposite. I'll give you that it mentioned that sludge may seal some leaks, however, if you do a bit more reasearch you'll see that most of reported problems came from seals reacting differently to the early synthetic oils (just like your link said.).
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Now we got a whole bunch of stuff not related to Ford Ranger problems. I really don't see much end result beyond trying to proove one opinion or another. Can we all agree to move on?
  • lannydslannyds Member Posts: 2
    Ref #343 by Frey44. Just got a call from my dealer, Wakefield Ford in Wake forest. Had a run around about the low speed 1st to 2nd shift shudder. Found TSB 99 13-4 and called Service mgr. two days ago and told him about it. He just got back to me this afternoon. stated TSB 99 13-4 was superceded by at least 3 other TSBs. Will call me when my new drive shaft comes in. Thanks guys for taking the time to place the info in this forum. Dealers can make you feel like you are the only one having the problem. Now if I can only get my cold air problem fixed.
    BTW, I have had as Consumer Report would say, only 2 other minor quality probs that were handled very well by Service. So far with 15k miles, all I could hope for with this truck is better than 20mpg on freeway doing 75.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    just to refresh your memory, here's what i originally told flea96:

    #359 of 371 96flea by tbunder Mar 19, 2002 (05:16 pm)
    you don't want to get the oil filter as tight as you can. only a 3/4 turn after it starts to tighten up is fine. if you overtighten, you can damage the rubber seal against the engine, and it will leak from the filter. plus, it will be a pain to get back off. it only needs to be as tight as one's hand can put it on, so one's hand can take it off w/o any wrenches. if you go to full-synthetic oil, use mobil1, as the rest are just oil. use synthetic blend if you want a little more protection. using a full-synthetic on an engine that has a lot of miles on it may be a bad choice. it could cause your engine to leak oil, since the conventional oil usually produces some sludge over the years and plugs any potential leaks. the synthetic oil will clean so good as to open up these leaks and cause oil to leak. every situation is different though, and each engine is different. good luck

    now, here's what the site i posted said about sludge buildup, it sealing potential leaks, and then the synthetic oil coming in and using its detergent abilities to flush away sludge, thus causing the oil to leak out the holes left from the sludge being removed:

    >So, to wrap up. Petroleum oils can screw up your seals and gaskets and then fill the holes with gunk and deposits to cover their tracks. Synthetic oils come in and begin to clean up the place. Once it's clean, the holes might be exposed (if there were any) and the oil begins to leak. After a while (no way to know how long) the synthetic may be able to help the seals and gaskets regain their composure and stop the leaks.<

    preceded with >"The "problem" is that there are also other additives that give a synthetic oil its detergency properties. In other words, there's other stuff in high quality synthetic oil which tends to clean out the sludge and deposits left behind by petroleum oils. Once these deposits are gone, the gaps around seals and gaskets become exposed and the oil might begin to leak in these areas."<

    hmmm, just like i originally posted. take your foot out now, allknowing. the facts are laid before you, ill give you one more chance. if still not accepted, ill give up. you know deep down that i was originally right, and you just wanted to argue. tata
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    You love to brag about your education, however, IF (and that's beginning to be a point of contention) you do have a college education, the school failed miserably in teaching basic comprehension skills. I'm not going to waste my time reviewing our posts again with you. Maybe you can have your wife read what I posted vs. your posts and explain it to you. Otherwise, continue with your wise cracks and we'll have something to laugh at.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    The subject is supposed to be the trucks, not each other...


    Thanks




    PF Flyer

    Host

    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    I'm curious here....everybody has been saying how Toyota dealers suck, how bad cust. service is, etc. Well, to put things in perspective: when I was buying my Tacoma, my test drive lasted.....1 week. I picked it up at no obligation whatsoever to buy, and signed the papers 1 week after. Do Ford dealers allow you to do that, or is Ford buyer stuck with a 10 minute testdrive?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    My Ford dealer was VERY polite when I test drove my Range. I simply FUBAR'd the test drive in NOT KNOWING WHAT TO EXPECT, or HOW to really try out a 4x4 Ranger. It is MY FAULT, for if I would have spent 30 minutes on the highway with it, and felt it vibrate, I would never have bought it. That is the VALUE OF A LONG highway test drive...I have never before been able to afford a decent truck, so something that "shook" was a given, as they all had 85 000 on them when I got them ! So, live and learn. I think the Ford dealer has been very polite; just incompetent at making the truck mechanically right. It is not them being mean-spirited, just inept. The local Toyota dealer (here in Ohio) is much worse in overall service. However, few guys I know with Tacos ever have to have them serviced. They just RUN them and change their oil. Good luck.
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    Hard to believe that you're a legend for mis-information and obnoxious behavior in the Tacoma vs. Ranger forum. I just don't understand why. Anyway, let's hear some more Ranger problems..
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    he let me drive a truck 2 hours to school in Maryland and back. I don't think extended test drives are unique to TOyota dealers.
  • jmiseajmisea Member Posts: 1
    Anyone have any idea where this switch is located?Used to hear it under the dash (when it was working!). Is it the one right underneath the glove box??????! Thanks!
  • rickc5rickc5 Member Posts: 378
    Both my Toyota dealer and my (current) Ford dealer allowed me to take their vehicles on extended test drives WITHOUT a salesman riding along. No difference between them.

    In addition, while my inept Toyota dealer attempted to fix the multiple problems with my Tacomas and my T100, I was given many other Toyota vehicles to drive. Usually for a day, but on several occasions, for multiple days, all for free. What a deal!
  • rickc5rickc5 Member Posts: 378
    I can truly empathise with you regarding the vibrations in your Ranger. I had similar "unfixable" problems with my Tacoma.

    However, you really need to move forward from where you currently are. Seems to me you have three options:

    1) Accept the truck for what it is and stop complaining.
    2) Get the darned thing fixed! If Ford can't help, take it to some independent garages for other opinions/fixes.
    3) Sell it and move on.

    I had to threaten Toyota with arbitration before they acknowledged my Tacoma was "unfixable" and gave me a new T100 in exchange for it. If you have kept all your documentation from Ford, this might be an option for you.

    For God's sake man, DO SOMETHING!
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    This POS Ranger of mine is up for sale. I am hoping to get 16K for it. I will be one happy camper when it is GONE. Wish me luck !! I just feel sorry for the guy who has to drive it ! Like they say, "lemons are sour" !
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Good luck trying to sell a vibrating ranger. I guess no luck in fixing it?
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    nah, no one else will notice its obvious "bad enough im gonna just sell it" vibrations. are you for real? you said its a '98? 16K for it is just plain out of reach my man. unless you have a cherry like i did, you're stuck with it. it has the old crappy (compared to the new 4.0) 4.0 pushrod, old front-end, and obvious problems. you're stuck with it. just too many rangers around to get that out of it.
  • jcc6jcc6 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 L SC 4x4. My rear brakes sporadically squeal. They don't make the noise every time but as the driver of the truck I hear it more often than not (Probably 85% of the time I hit the brakes). I've had it to the dealership for this problem three times. The first time they found some rust on the rotors and cleaned it off. It solved the problem temporarily but it came back much worse. I've just had it in a second and third time (over a two-day span) and they insist that they can't find anything or hear it, so they've taken no action. So basically it's my word against theirs and they're making their decision based on maybe a mile-long test drive. Is there any way to win this battle??......My guess is that they'll skirt around this problem until my warranty is up, or until enough people have this complaint that it becomes a national issue.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    i had a 2001 s/c 4x4 ranger. never had any noises with the brakes or anything else for that matter. im trying to figure out how the rears would squeal, because they're drums, and thus have no rotors back there. are you sure its the brakes? try backing up somewhat aggressively and then slamming on the brakes. ive heard that resets ford brakes. may be a wise tale though. do the emergency brake the same way. just mess around with them a little. if problem still persistes, take it in and drive THEM around until you hear the noise. good luck.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I have a 2000 ranger, 4.0, 4 door cab, auto., 4x4, loaded with ARE cap. It has 15677 miles right as we speak, and is nearly flawless in appearance. It also has bedliner, Michelin LTX's and Wesston bars. I sure hope I can get between 15 and 16K for it. If not, I'll probably keep it and buy the Tundra outright.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    You can get rear drum squeal with the use of sintered alloy metal brake shoes. Also, they can get glazed and do this. I had a problem with a Honda and removed the shoes, sanded the glaze off with emory cloth then reinstalled them. It did the trick. Softer break material usually is quieter, but of course wears out faster.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    the reason is that i have seen some 2001 off-road 3.0's go for $17000 at dealers. is yours an off-road? if so, i'd keep it. sounds like a cool truck.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Rangers, across many years, are known for squealing and grabbing rear brakes.

    Usually happens in rainy or just damp weather, after the truck has set overnight, or somewhat longer. In my opinion, the drums rust up a little, and the shoes will then grab and squeal. After a few applications of the brakes, this goes away.

    The factory brake shoes just 'do' this. Most people get used to it, just expect it. I back out of my garage and when I stop in reverse, I get enough 'grab' to know the brakes are rusted up a little. Sometimes I will just 'ride' the brake a little down the block, this usually will clean up the rust.

    If you replace the shoes with a good aftermarket brand, sometimes this stops the squeal/grab. I can't recommend a brand to do this....
  • jcc6jcc6 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the help. A couple of your messages sound very familiar to what they (dealership) have told me. The first time in they found some rust, and simply cleaned it off. This solved the problem for about 2 weeks, and then it started up again in full force. The second time I took it in they said there was some glazing, and they cleaned that off. But that didn't solve anything; I drove for one block and they started squealing again. SO when I took it in the third time they test drove it and heard nothing......Ford Customer Service said that next time I hear the squealing, immediately take it to the dealership. This whole process is starting to become extremely time consuming and inconvenient.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    with you, i wouldn't worry about it. its not hurting anything and he's right, when my ranger sat in rain, they grabbed for a little bit. then eventually wore off, like in 2-3 minutes. what's the big deal. the drums will last forever anyways. the drums may squeal a little sometimes, but its the benefits of getting drums and keeping the prices down on the rangers. if you had rear discs, you'd have to replace shoes and worry about rotors having to be turned etc. just deal with it.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    The new Ford Truck Owners club is now available on Edmunds.com Owners Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Pickups.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    KarenS
    Host
    Owners Clubs
  • dermendermen Member Posts: 31
    My ranger has the shift on the fly 4x4 and I had a mechanic drive it and he thinks a bearing in either the T-case or front differential is bad. It makes a errrrrerrrrrrerrrrrerrrrrrr noise when in 4x4. Does anybody know around how much this would cost to get fixed? Or if that is even the problem?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    One thing you might try. Put your truck up on jack stands with all four wheels on. Engage your 4x4; listen for noise. You can then, if you want to take the time, remove the front shaft from TC to DIFF. run the engine again with the 4x4 engaged, but with no front shaft to turn the front DIFF. IF the noise is still there it is in the TC; if the noise is gone, it is in the DIFF. A "round trip" to open and close a diff or TC is at least 2.5 to 3 hours of shop time in a bearing repair. In this area, that is about 55 to 60 bucks per shop hour labor + parts. If you're looking at gaskets, fluid change and bearing, you're likely looking at a $ 350 bill or so. Good luck. My opinion, of course.
  • goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    jcc6,

    My rear brakes didn't squeal, they squeaked and I could feel a slight pulsing in pedal. Only took it one time to the dealer, he drove it and agreed. He replaced both rear drums, said they were warped. Stay after the dealer, brakes are only covered 1yr/12,000 miles.
    good luck
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    But I can attest to the brake grabbing on a cold morning with moisture clinging to everything. Happens on both my 93 Ranger and a 90 F-150 I drive occasionally. It's been raining for the past 2 days, and everything this morning was covered with dew. After two stops, it's back to normal.
  • crispyfriescrispyfries Member Posts: 10
    i have read quite a bit about various vibration problems w/ these trucks, and i spent about 4 months looking before i finally bought mine last week. i test drove it, but didn't get over 60 on the test drive (dumb, i know), so never got a chance to discover the vibration until i was driving it home. you can imagine my nervousness when what i was reading about here seemed to surface on my first extended highway drive w/ my new truck. it has 62K, but very well maintained and only 32K on 4.0 engine (orig owner replaced it due to excessive carbon knock) that Ford covered under warranty. so, first, i need to know basically what the general opinion is out there as to what is most likely causing the vibration. it starts around 67mph w/ a high frequency almost like a chatter/buzz, then after around 74, it turns to a slightly lower frequency, more like a shimmy, but in on/off pattern of about a second or so (harmonic alliance i assume). everyone says try to balance the tires first, but they haven't read what i have here. i was also told it could possibly be run-out of one (or more) rims, either vert. or in/out, tires slippage on the rim, shocks, u-joints, other suspension parts. if i remember right - i don't have the quick connection to re-scan through all the posts - i recall quite a bit of opinion surrounding a defective driveshaft, but not 100% sure on that. i am fully prepared to find out EXACTLY what's causing the vibration and fixing it since i just bought this truck and otherwise it is in very clean shape. at the same time, i don't want to go on a snipe hunt, throwing $ at what some mechanic thinks could be the problem. suggestions?
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    from 1998 up to 2000 model year rangers had pulse vacuum operated hubs. it could possibly be in the hubs. i know my dad's old '88 ranger with lock-outs vibrates when they're locked in. maybe they're not dis-engaging. other than that, i don't know what to tell you. its a 4x4, so possibilities could be endless.
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    There has been quite a few Ranger owners that have had to get their driveshaft rebalanced to solve that type of problem. Check posts from about one to two months ago in this forum for more info.

    Tbunder - Guess the Ranger would be better with the "pencil thin" Toyota driveshaft huh? It never has any problems.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles