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how about adding stp gas treatment to the gas tank. is it going to hurt anything?
I had a 90 2.3 5sp that some folks really thought was a diesel when idling in neutral. That trans uses atuo trans fluid and was light weight. I did replace the pilot bearing when I did the clutch, but the noise continued as soon as it warmed up. Is your quiet when cold? When I sold mine it had 174,000 miles on it and was still strong. I just lived with it. Have a 01 4.0 5sp auto now with 16K and love it. (except gas mileage)
You should probably also think about installing an aftermarket electric fan on the radiator. You can even buy some that come with temperature sensors so they turn themselves on when a certain temp is reached in the radiator. However a full time fan would only keep the engine cooler, and the drawback would be it takes a bit longer to warm up. I think that is much better than boiling over, though...
The TSB numbers are 99-3-7 Issued FEB. 99 Titled Suspension - Left Rear of Vehicle Seems Low and 00-10-06 Issued May 00 Titled Leaf Springs - Vehicle sits Low in Rear.
Anyone with any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
So forget paying him the 100 bucks. And get your codes pulled from the computer after reseting it. The codes should tell you what's up, even if you get a mechanic to pull the codes before you buy it.
The good thing about the ford 2.3l is that there is no valve to piston interference. That is, if the timing belt does break, the valves should not hit the pistons and you will stall. However damage can occur from the half second of random timing events before the engine shuts down (i.e. Combustion stroke with intake valve open)
I believe a reasonable estimate for a professional replacement should be around 200 or 300 dollars tops.
Good luck
Well we just bought our Son a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 Litre engine and Automatic transmission. We found out that it was a leased vehicle and it has 48,699 miles. It seems to run well, but is it normal for the 3.0 engine to be quite noisy at acceleration and the front suspension seems quite loose as in going over a speed bump it is bouncy. Please let us know how your 3.0 liter engine is treating you and how reliable they are! By the way it was 12,000 $ good or bad deal?
Also, look underneath and see if you have a steel (rusted to heck) or alloy (silver) driveshaft. If you got the aluminum version, that means it was replaced by the previous owner, which is your good luck (many of the earlier steel ones were poorly machined and caused nasty floorbaord vibration). Good luck; it should run 200 000 miles with little trouble.
I have been looking at a '93 Ranger Extended Cab with a camper shell with 133,000 miles on it for my son. It is a single-owner. It has a manual transmission with a 4.0 liter V8 engine. The owner did tow a trailer quite a bit with the truck. Does anyone think of problems for which I should be particularly alert in this vehicle. Cosmetically, it is in good condition. Thanks, in advance, for any advice. I am not knowledgeable at all in this area.
Tell the salesman to get the thing in the shop, and when these problems are fixed to give you a call, but not before.
Bad upshifts might be 're-learning', but I don't know how much 'relearning' a 3L Ranger computer really does. This isn't a sports car....
I've looked at the maintenance schedule in the owners manual for my 1994. The only thing I see in the maintenance schedule was 'Inspect camshaft drive belt tension. 2.3 l only'. This was at 60,000 and 120,000 miles.
I didn't see anything about belt replacement.
Are you sure it has a belt?
If so, then Ford seems to say it will run 120,000 miles without replacing.
This is a 2.3l Turbo block, but the same design found in Ranger.
The stock Ford 2.3l is an non-interferance engine*, without a specific maintenance interval on the timing belt. The 60,000 mile inspection is where that is determined.
http://www.theautoshop.com/timing.html
*-If the timing belt breaks, no damage should occur from piston to valve clearance.
What has to be taken off to get there, belts, fan, and a cover?
Remove Water pump pulley.
Remove drivebelts
Drain and remove upper radiator hose
Remove thermostat housing and gasket
Position 1st piston at top dead center on comp. stroke
Remove crankshaft pulley and belt guide.
Remove cover.
That is the basics of getting to the belt, but is in no way the complete job thereafter.
Thanks!
What motor does it have?
Go to a bank or credit union and look at their used car book, the load officers will be happy to show it to you. It will give retail, loan, and wholesale values, for your area.
There are links off here for looking up online used car values. Bear in mind the Kelly Blue Book values are ususally higher than you should actually pay. They almost always are overstated.
Be sure you get the crankshaft position sensor on correctly. that is important to the operation of everything....... in everyday driving I think 120K is to far.....but as the above states if it breaks it won't hurt the engine. just hope a big 18 wheeler isn't right behind you when it lets go
goldranger
Does the airconditioning condensor have to be moved and the radiator taken out?
Is a puller needed to get the crank pulley off?
Chiltons mentioned that the spring on the timing belt tightener wasn't enough to pretension the belt but didn't say what was. Does anyone have a Ford manual with better info?
Anything else that I should know about?
Thanks for any help.
Again a puller is really helpful, but not completely required. I'd recommend using one so as not to damage the crank sensor or attaching hardware.
I'm am not sure on the pretensioner. Maybe just a little prybar action?
I just recently took advantage of the generous 0% finance terms and switched my 3.0 Edge for a new 4.0 XLT Off Road (and lower payments). One of the attractions of the truck I selected was the Mach MP3 CD player and the capability to create my own CDs.
So far I haven't been able to get a single MP3 CD to work with the unit. Has anyone here any info or experience with the Mach MP3? What works, what doesn't, anything may help to identify the issues.
Thanks. Mike
nebula, most autoparts stores will carry a suitable replacement. Just make sure it is not a generic replacement, but one specifically designed for your truck/engine. If you go with a well known name (Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys in my area) you should be fine.
-Loud clunk when A/C compressor engages (not always though)
-Seems to be lots of play (clunk sound) in the driveline when transitioning between power on and power off. Even smoothly. Keep in mind this is a standard transm. If I am VERY careful with my shifting I can avoid it.
-I get a buzzing or rattling sound when the engine is cold and the rpms go above 2700. Disappears when engine warms up. Dealer says it must be a loose heat shield but couldn't find it. It has been EXACTLY the same for 1.5 yrs as well. Could be piston rap or valve clatter? You have to listen closely to hear it but it's always there.
-Driver's side floor is wet under rubber mat. Probably windshield seal.
-Tailgate requires extra push on upper left to get that side to latch upon closing. I can live with that (Ford quality control asleep at the wheel).
The engine buzz and driveline clunking are my two biggest concerns. I know the driveline thing has been discussed here already. What do I need to know about these problems prior to going back to the dealership? Thanks in advance guys.
Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
Article No.
01-11-11
06/11/01
^ NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
^ DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
FORD:
1998-2001 RANGER
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.
ISSUE
Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.
ACTION
Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
2. Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
3. Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark. This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
4. Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
5. Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
6. Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
7. Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
8. Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.
I have a chance to buy a 2002 Ranger Super Cab 4D with auto, air and all the goodies. It is also the FX4 Off Road with running boards, bed liner, towing pack etc. It only has 1800 miles and price is 19,500. Based on what I see posted here this seems like a very fair price. I know the 2002 brand new have the 2500 rebate but this still seems good after factoring that in. Any thoughts?
So make sure you test drive this vehicle LONG ENOUGH to be convinced it is tip top. Also, make sure it tracks straight (another infamous 4x4 toe-in Ranger quirk..these trucks don't tend to want to "self-center" their steering very well, and tend to wander more than many are used to. They are very sensitive to road camber, and tend to pull when driving on a cambered lane...no biggie when you get used to it.) The price is very reasonable, but also be warned that these trucks depreciate very fast...you can use this as leverage to knock another 500 bucks off of the price. Good luck. That is a cool looking truck.
Things like that do not produce codes, typically. Sounds like the dealership was just trying to get you in and out. The trick is to ask if there is any remedy for the issue with a knowledgable 3.0l mechanic. As time progresses, and the engine gets broken in it may go away, or get worse.
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Finally got my '92 Ranger 4.0L on the road a few weeks ago but I've been chasing a problem I can't find.
While cruising down the road under constant speed (or any other driving condition), the temp gauge sits at about 20% of full scale. Every once in awhile, it will climb to about 60% in 1 or 2 seconds. It sometimes stays there for almost a minute but often starts dropping again quickly, taking about 10 o 20 seconds to drop back to around 20%.
I have had 3 different thermostats in it (1 non-Ford part), changed the fan clutch and the temp sensor but it always behaves the same.
These excursions do not correlate with acceleration, speed, rough road, or any other condition I can think of.
I ran this morning with the heater on (been too hot to try that until now) and could not swear to any change in temp from the heater when the gauge went wacky.
I suspect the electrics of the temp gauge circuit but have not purchased the service manual yet to start tracking it down.
I was hoping to take my first long trip in the Ford this weekend but my confidence level in it is still lower than my '92 Jeep with more than twice the mileage.
Has anyone else had a similar problem and what did you find???
While the truck was in for a regular oil change I had the shop (a Goodyear ASC, not a Ford Dealer) diagnose the problem. They diagnosed a faulty EGR valve and selonoid (sp?) which I had them replace. To make a long story short, the truck has been back to the same shop 4 times and the problem is not fixed yet. Each time, the truck runs better for a day or two and then the light comes back on and the symptoms return.
First, has anyone had this problem and if so how was it resolved? Second, do you think I will have better luck at a Ford dealer? I've already spent $200 on this problem with the Goodyear shop, and they have never charged me for subsequent visits. However, I am beginning to doubt that they are able to properly diagnose and repair this problem.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
p.s calamityjane -- perhaps it is time to replace that gauge. I had a similar problem with a boat, and after trying lots of things out of caution it turned out to be the instrament. If it still reads hot with a new thermostat and a new gauge, you know you have more serious trouble.
My best friend had a '00 Ranger that had our same problem and a dealership fixed it for him.....they replaced a different component on the EGR system....a "DPCE....????.....it sits right on the front of the manifold intake....looks to be very easy to replace....2 screws and 2 hoses to remove and replace....BUT I bet the part can only be gotten through a dealership...I'm going to go let the dealership diagnose mine and replace it.........I had taken the EGR valve off and "cleaned" it....left battery cables off for a while to reset the light....and 2 days later light has come back on.....Maybe we can both get this thing fixed.....good luck to you
Earlier this summer, I noticed when the AC was off but in MAX or RECIR I got quite a lot of rather warm air out of the vents. I looked at the TEMP control cable and it seemed to be working fine and the 'door' seemed to be closing completely. Thinking that maybe the seals around the door have deteriated in 8 years I thought of something else to try to help the AC.
I bought a manual cutoff value and put it in one of the heater hoses. My old 1966 Ford had one of these. And since my 94 Ranger did not have a vacumn operated cutoff, like some new vehicles, I decided to do the manual cutoff, opening and closing it in spring and fall.
continued....
It will come up, then surge up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to almost the bottom. It will do this about 3 or 4 times. And then, especially if I am on the highway and the outside temp is hot, it will stablize at the 'usual' position which is about the N or O on 'NORMAL' Except one cool morning I was driving it and it continued to cycle up and down.
I think it has something to do with the heater core being in the 'bypass' flow of water, which allows the heater to heat up faster in winter. When I cut this bypass off, for some reason, and because of where the sensor is located, it see a different flow of water for some reason. I think when the thermostat opens a flow of overheated water comes out of the engine and hits the sensor. Then, the cool water from the radiator hits it. If the 'bypass' flow through the heater was working, I think these temps are evened out some way, and the gauge is more stable.
Or, maybe we have an air pocket in the engine and this is what causes it? Cutting into the hose I lost very little antifreeze, but could have still gotten air into the hose.
Are your heater hoses hooked up properly? You said something about 'getting the truck back on the road'. Is it possible you have a completely blocked heater, which gives you the same 'system' as I do with a cutoff valve in a hose closed off?
I'm just living with it, especially since after a few cycles it stablizes. Since I intend to open the valve in a short when the outside weather cools off, I will see it it gets back to 'normal' then.