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Problem: AC compressor cycles SO friggin rapidly that it sounds like a clicking noise. was serviced 15 times (but I could have sued after 4 attempts). Completely sporadic problem... ended up wearing out the serpentine about 30K miles early!
After everything is done and said, I've probably had the freon refilled 4 times, compressor and all components eventually replaced twice (or more for some switches)
Nightmare doesn't end: Sporadicaly doesn't start - doesn't even turn over or click...but now I'm outta warranty. Send me an email if you can help. I'm a full-time student and a business owner and having the truck decide to not start is ruining my life (the dealerships have no idea what's happening) It seems to occur early/later afternoon and ends up starting after the sun sets. (I'm in Arizona and it's like 105 out)
an email would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Andrew Walker
walkera@email.arizona.edu
Regarding the A/C...a low Freon level can cause rapid cycling of the compressor. But, there is no reason to recharge the system unless there is proof (like a simple pressure measurement) that there is a leak. If there is a leak, it must be located and fixed.
Regarding the no-start condition...the diagnostic codes stored in the computer should direct any mechanic to the cause.
I would suggest that the two problems are related and are caused by an intermittent failure in the computer. It controls both the A/C and the engine. It is an expensive replacement, but it could be cheap considering what your time is worth.
Thanks
Heh, just found it....
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/decode.htm
Do you know of this?
My experience is that repairing car radios is a waste of time - the repair lasts only a few days. I hope you have better luck.
Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
Article No.
01-11-11
06/11/01
^
NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
^
DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
FORD:
1998-2001 RANGER
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.
ISSUE
Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when
coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a
stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.
ACTION
Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built
before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1.
Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange
in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
2.
Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
3.
Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark.
This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
4.
Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
5.
Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
6.
Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
7.
Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
8.
Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.
OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME
DEALER CODING
OASIS CODES: 597997, 702000, 702200, 702300, 703000, 703200, 703400
One more thing. Sometimes after coming to a stop I notice a low pitched hum, like a high pressure fluid travelling through a hose coming from the engine. I can't find anything on it. Any Ideas?
Thanks
tune up included air & fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel additive.
will O2, MAP or airflow sensors do this ? if so, why not more often? (by the way, the check engine light does not happen at the same time as the starting problem)
thanks!! nik
Thanks
There is also a fuel shutoff (activates if the vehicle is hit hard) that might have become activated. This is under the edge of the carpet at the front of the 'hump', on the right side, under the dash. There is a pushbutton to reset.
These are 2 of the easier things that should be checked before tearing out the fuel tank.
When accelerating from a dead stop, (easy or hard makes no difference) there seems to be a slight "lag." There is no clunk, thump, or vibration as discussed earlier on this board. It does feel like driveline slop but, as I said, there is no noise. It almost feels like a downshift from 2nd to 1st, but of course it is already in 1st.
Frey44, do you think this is the driveshaft issue or something else entirely?
I am the proud owner of a brand new sparkling aluminum driveshaft! Happily, the driveline is now snug as a bug in a rug. I never had the vibrations like Frey had, but my truck is now even smoother than it was before. Before, there was a slight road rumble that I attributed to the tires. That rumble is now gone. "Drive" to "Reverse" and "Reverse" to "Drive" is tight and quiet, too.
So, if anyone has a late model Ranger with the old rusty tube of steel under it, and you think you have some strange driveline symptoms, this is a likely fix.
Dome Light/Door Ajar light stays on: Sensors in the bottom of the doors need to be replaced - doesn't use the "button" type switches like other vehichles - my dealer did it in 20 minutes (both doors).
Windshield wipers come on for no reason: Multi-function switch needs replacing.
check engine light came on once right at the same time the engine "shuddered" and almost stalled and blew a cloud of black smoke out the exhaust. Drove straight to my dealer, computer said nothing, turned the truck off and on and the light went out. Said it was probably a chunk of carbon blowing through the fuel system that disrupted the fuel flow for a second. No problems since (20,000 miles ago).
Other things I needed in 95,000 miles: On my third serpintine belt (1st one went at 8,000 miles. U-joints replaced at 20,000 - no problems since. I've only had normal maintanence done other than that. I get 20-22 mpg consistently using cheap gas and Valvaline Durablend 5w30 (have a cap on it). My only problem at the moment is the cruise control only works half the time and when it does work, it shuts itself off about every 5 miles.
Thanks for the info about the driveline lag/shudder/thump.... My happens on deceleration - more when the air conditioner is on and the compressor kicks on and off (sounds weird but true). It almost feels like it is downshifting when coasting but it is a manual transmission.
This is my 3rd ranger and I love them - I just wouldn't buy one with a 4 cyl - my first one had a 4 in it and it was terrible, 2 rebuilds in first 4 years but the dealer did good by me on trade in when I produced the 2 inch thick folder full of repair orders, etc. - guess he felt bad - so I bought my second (XLT 4x4) from him.
I am a four-time Ranger owner, myself. The first was an used 85 plain-jane 4 cyl, 5 speed. Drove it 85,000 miles with no problems but was seriously lacking in power.
I replaced the 85 with a 92 4X4 with the 2.9 and a 5 speed. Still not enough power but a good truck. It was stolen and I relocated to the South so I replaced it with a 92 4x2 with a 3.0 5 speed. It has 100k miles on it and it looks and drives like new. It is for sale now.
Now I am back in Minneapolis so I bought the 01 4X4 super cab. The drivers door kind of creaked a bit but I adjusted the striker on the latch and now it is quiet as a mouse. The only other issue is the gas gauge that drops like a rock but that has been discussed before.
With normal care and maintenance, Rangers provide a lot of truck for the buck.
My question is, has anyone had this done and did it solve the problem?
-Gas gauge never worked right, even after sending unit and gauge replaced (TSB issued later for revised sending unit).
-Horn quit working after driving through a large puddle. Horn assembly replaced under warranty.
-Illumination for cruise control buttons failed, replaced under warranty.
-Infamous timing chain rattle above 2500rpm. Never fixed.
-Metal shavings found in transmission while trying to diagnose possible torque converter problem. Transmission assembly from converter back replaced. Problem not fixed.
-Electronic 4x4 shift on fly module dies, replaced under warranty.
-At idle with warm motor, truck would surge, felt like you were bumped by a car behind you. In shop 4 times, reprogram PCM 2x, replace entire transmission. Last fix replaced MAF assembly. Uncertain about fix because
-2001 bought back by FoMoCo as vehicle had spent 35 days in the shop in less than 11 months of ownership. Replaced with
-2002 4.0L 5spauto 4x4 Off-Road SCab (this time with MP3 stereo!)
-Timing chain rattle present again. TSB issued to replace cam chain tensioners. 3 days in shop. Noise persists (haven't bothered to take it back yet).
-MP3 stereo eats a cd and dies. Replacement radio DOA. Replacement for the replacement overheats right off the bat, service manager won't even leave it installed. 3rd replacement still working.
-Condensation appears between layers of windshield, like little fingers growing from edge inwards. Dealer claims windshield dirty, cleans windshield. This does nothing. Need to ask for windshield replacement next trip in.
-Summertime 3000 mile road trip with AC running. Spark knock going up small hills. Run 91/93 octane, no knock. Use 93 entire trip, including through mountains of Colorado (where 95% of all small trucks are Tacomas, for some reason...), achieve 23mpg after 4wheeling and driving through mountain passes. Upon return, reprogram PCM to deal with spark knock. Knock persists with 87 octane, using 89 till I take it back. Mileage returns to 17-18.
Conclusions: The Ranger is a nice truck if you get one with no problems. The 4.0L SOHC motor does not seem to be as reliable as the OHV motor it replaced, and its longevity yet to be known, but it is more than adequate to move the truck nicely. The late model trucks have the front hubs locked full time, and the hubs cannot be swapped for Warn manuals after 2001. Electronic 4x4 is unreliable, and manual tcase only offered on manual transmission FX4 package. Some minor squeaks and rattles that appear in cold weather. Make sure you buy from a dealer you can work with that has a service department you can trust, and test drive the truck you're going to buy, not one like it.
Tomorrow I visit the Toyota dealership to test drive a Tacoma to compare it.
You've had trouble behind trouble.
Makes me feel better about keeping my 94 4L and not buying a 2002 4L this summer with the $2,500 rebate and X-Plan pricing.
frey44: I gave up on the selling dealer of my 2001 after the write up guys and the service manager started blowing smoke up my [non-permissible content removed] and treating me like an idiot (gas gauge reads empty when you have 7 gallons left? Oh, that's normal. WTF??) I called the Ford customer service line and did everything I could to make it clear that dealership didn't deserve a blue oval cert, and started taking the truck to another dealership, which fixed the problems the selling dealer couldn't find, and handled the buyback for me with 0 hassles. If your truck isn't getting fixed, raise holy hell until it is. We pay too much money for these trucks for Ford to not honor their warranty.
I did visit a Toyota dealership today, and took a 2003 Tacoma 3.4L 4sp auto xtracab TRD for a spin. My supercab Ranger wins on comfort: lots more legroom up front (even more than on the DoubleCab Tacoma), the power windows/controls are laid out better, the seats are a bit more comfortable. The Ranger also feels heavier, in body panels, doors, interior trim. When it comes to what really counts, however, the Toyota wins hands down. Manual transfer case, pushbutton locking rear differential, the 3.4L feels smooth and has plenty of pep, and the 4 speed auto shifted so well I didn't notice the shift points. Without a doubt, the Ford 4.0L has more power stock. If I buy a 3.4L Tacoma, I'll probably opt for that nifty TRD supercharger. I haven't made up my mind yet. IF I decide I want to start doing some serious off-roading, the Tacoma is a lot more suited to the job. I like my 2002 Ranger. I just wish I could trust it like I trust my 1993.
If you have the 2 piece driveshaft, there is a carrier bearing in the center that might need replacing.... Since you seem to have replaced most everything else.
After this is corrected, I will not have anything else to complain about!
Good luck.
Another thing: When you are driving at 75 or so and experiencing the vibration, have you tried touching the brake to unlock the torque converter? Does that make a difference in the vibration?
Vibrations can be a pain in the a## but it seems like the cause could be isolated if not fixed.
Also, what is the "TSB" i have heard people refer too?
Thanks alot
kcowboy12: I've had that happen, and I've seen it referred to on many 4x4 boards. From what I understand, it's normal on 4x4 drivetrains due to their construction and the sudden release of tension which builds up in the combination of U-joints in the drivetrain when you start up. Of course, this may all be BS, but I have seen the same explanation many times.
I can back you up on that one. I have a 2001 Edge
4.0, ext cab, 4x4 Automatic with all the bells and whistles. And yea mine does the same thing too a "thunk", from the passenger side of the transmission. Not on a regular basis and varies on how loud it is. Mostly when it was cold in the morning. I haven't good guess on what it is either. I have been watching this post for a good year now. And this is first I've read about it.
While I'm here I'll put my 2 cents on subjects I can relate to . I'll try to be quick.
1 Crappy mileage from the get go . The fix, Gibson cat back exhaust. K and N Generation II KIPK kit. The Big surprise was burning mid grade fuel. With all 3 I almost get the mileage shown on the window sticker. I get 200 miles to the 3/4 tank. whoope ding dong.
2 Steel drive shaft got one, I haven't a clue about the vibration I read about. I do hear a slow pulsing noise at a steady speeds 35 on up. Sounds like tires to me. You really have to listen to it to hear it. Can't feel it though.
Thats almost the end ,my goofy prob is the engine shuts off by itself mostly right after a short turn in a parking lot. Fires right back up after a turn of the key. Happens once every other month sort of . Anyone one wanna figure that one out?
Other than that, its a Champion.
thanks again. kcowboy12
I have only had my 01 4x4 a couple of weeks and I have been pleasantly surprised by the gas mileage. At first I was shocked that the gauge dropped to "E" after 175 miles. However, I could only cram about 11 gallons in it. The new pump assembly has solved the gauge inaccuracy. I am getting around 16 MPG in mixed city/freeway driving. I am no feather foot so I am pretty pleased with that. I don't think my old 2 wheel drive 3.0 litre would do much better under the same driving conditions.