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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • So that is also hurting your MPG. There are lots of small perfomance modifications you can do, like using a less restrictive air filter, taking off the air box "snorkle", installing a cold/ram air kit, and cat back exhaust. These items are pretty economical, and can open up a few extra ponies from your motor. The trick is not to open it up as much, but to use the new power to run through less RPM's. Driving style is always the biggest factor.
  • I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 5spd auto. My gas gage does the same thing, reads empty after I've used about 15.5 gallons. The check gage lite comes on with 3 gals left in the tank. I thought about taking my truck in and getting it fixed, but after taking several long trips ( 700 miles one way) I changed my mind. I would rather have gas in the tank, than run out. Also driving 75mph I average between 19 and 20 mpg. Combination city highway is 17.5. I think you guys who drive strickly in town probably do get bad gas milage, but driving with a heavy foot will really kill gas milage.
  • redzx3redzx3 Posts: 16
    Thanks for the info on MPG your right about my Edge being like a 4x4 .I do like the Edge alot and so far it has been a fun truck to drive .Maybe i just need to slow down and not speed so much .
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    >A tonneau cover will help out.<

    I'm not sure about this.

    Several years ago Consumer Reports looked at the various configurations of pickup trucks.

    Opening/taking the tailgate out: This actually hurt milage. Their explaination was that the tailgate in place and 'up' forced the air flow up and over the truck more, giving better milage.

    They tested a cab-height topper: There was no measurable difference in milage. They thought any better air flow was probably cancelled out by the additional weight of the topper.

    One additional thing about tailgate down or taken out. The tailgate is an intergal part of the bed structure. If it is not up, the sides will flex and, over time, probably bend inwards, possibly making it impossible to get the tailgate closed easily.
  • redzx3redzx3 Posts: 16
    my 2002 Ranger V6 3.0 with 6,400 miles on it is not running right . It's auto, and when you stop at a red light and keep your foot on the brake it run's rough and the tack move's from 1 to almost 0 .But when you take off from the red light it run's good .I have been useing 87 gas so i was thinking it could be the gas so now i'm useing 93 gas and it's still doing the same thing .I took it into ford and they had it for 4 day's and told me it's fine . well it's still running rough when you stop at a red light .I guess i will have to take it back to ford this week .Has this happen to any of you yet ?
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    I have a 96 Ranger 4X4 XLT and when I switch it into FWD it keeps engaging and disengaging. I also notice a high pitched whistle for a while after the FWD is engaged. I am thinking that the vacum line has a leak but, I was under the truck yesterday and could not see anything. To be honest I was not sure what I was looking for. Has anyone else had a similar problem?
  • This truck has 33,500 miles on it and the engine noise(clatter) when you first start it up in the morning is terrible, almost embarrassing. Even hear alittle engine noise (I think valves) when driving, but not bad. I bought the truck with 26,000 miles on it and within the last 1,000 miles this racket has started.I have tried synthetic oil, oil additives, which seem to help a little. Different brands and weights of oil, etc. The truck runs fine but this engine is NOISY! Got any ideas on why this is happening? I try to take care of my vehicle's but this is driving my nuts.
  • wmw28wmw28 Posts: 2
    I just got a 1998 ranger xlt. I was having a problem with the door ajar and dome light coming on, or not turning off. I found this sight and registered and so on to maybe get some advice on the problem. but after reviewing the postings all I found was a lot of " I say this " well "I say that" or mines better,no mines better. why dont you guys get each others phone nos, and argue your points. that way some of us don't have scroll through a lot of uneeded postings looking for one that is close to our problem. Just thought I`d say Hi.............
  • wmw28, Sorry you had to go through that. You were probably reading messages going back and forth between Ranger and Tacoma guys. It's kinda a big competition here unfortunately, but it should be good to hear that it's over (for) now.

    rangertime, I believe the earlier SOHV 4.0l's had a cam tensioner issues, which could be the cause of your engine noise. It could also be the oil dipstick coming into contact with the crank. See WWW.NHTSA.GOV for info on TSB (Technical service bulletins), and also see your local dealership for advice on servicing it(it may even be under an extended warranty, as I think it was a fairly common issue, but don't quote me on that)

    pinetted, Can you set the parking brake, or have someone stand on the brakes while you check for the source of the vacuum leak? That may or may not be the full reason for your 4WD disengaging, but it definitely is a good place to start checking.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    1) Noisy motor. You have the dreaded 1997 to 1999 4Liter 'Marble Noise' in the motor. It's a well known problem in these years. Ford changed something in the motor and caused this noise in many motors. In all my reading of message boards, I've never seen a final definition of what this problem is. 'Piston slap' seem to be one of the most quoted ones.

    With much complaining, people have told stories of Ford replacing these motors. And several of the replacements soon developed the same noise. Ford dealers all probably know of this problem, but there seems to not be a lot of support for a fix. And there does not seem to 'be' a fix. Ford also seems to say that the noise is 'normal' and will not effect the performance of the truck. Probably the worse thing would be resale value, if a future purchaser heard this noise before buying. People write of driving the truck for lots of miles, with this noise, and no other problems with the motor.

    2)Dome lite/door ajar. Another well known problem with these years. The switch in the door needs to be replaced. A lot of people WD40 it, but I think Ford may have a better made switch you will get from parts, so I would recommend replacing them. Replace both doors. And, the switch is inside the doors, not in the door frame. The door panel has to be removed to get to the switch.
  • wmw28wmw28 Posts: 2
    I took it to the dealer I bought it from, He replaced the passenger door switch with a switch off of a ranger he had around. it works now ,but maybe I should get a new one like you suggested, for both doors. Can a yard mechanic like myself do this installation, cause if it aint broke the dealer wont do it.
  • Dreaded marble noise,piston slap,(what is piston slap)? Oh well I'll just have to live with it I guess. I paid 9,600 for this 4X4 Ranger XLT with 26,000 miles on it.Its in FANTASTIC shape. It was quiet when I first got it and know it sounds like it has 126,000 miles. But I guess as long as it keeps running well I won't worry too much about it. Thanks everyone again for the replys. Piston slap?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    My 2000 4.0 pushrod Ranger makes that noise, and also makes a slight knocking sound when cold. It seems to go away when warm. I suspect is is indeed piston slap, whcih goes away when the piston heatss up and undergoes expansion. In any event, I have seen a number of Rangers that over 200K on those motors with very little trouble. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are not satsified, spend a few bucks and get an oil analysis done to give you peace of mind. If something major is wrong, you will have evidence of deteriorated bearing materials in the oil residue.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Engine - Carbon Knock On Acceleration
    Article No:
    01-19-7

    10/01/01
    ^ ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION

    ^ NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY

    FORD:
    1990-1997 AEROSTAR
    1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

    ISSUE
    Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.

    ACTION
    Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.

    2. Carbon removal:
    a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
    b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
    c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
    d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
    e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
    f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
    g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
    h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
    i. Change oil and filter.

    3. Review the customers' driving habits. The recommended drive cycle should include daily periods of engine operation above 3,000 RPM, such as a brisk acceleration from a stop position. This will break/burn the carbon off the piston head.

    4. Use regular unleaded fuel, 87 Octane. Mid-grade and Premium fuels may increase the probability of carbon buildup, leading to a knock noise.

    PARTS BLOCK
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

    011907A Remove Carbon From 1.6 Hrs.
    Combustion Chamber
    (Includes Time To Perform
    Procedure A Total Of
    Three Times)

    DEALER CODING

    CONDITION
    BASIC PART NO. CODE
    6108 42
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    TSB for Rangers taht have sagging rear springs, like mine:
    Leaf Springs - Vehicle Sits Low In Rear
    Article No.
    00-10-6

    05/15/00

    SUSPENSION - VEHICLE SITS LOW IN REAR
    FORD:
    1998-2000 RANGER

    This TSB is being republished in its entirety to add a Note to clarify the parts application.
    ISSUE
    Some vehicles may appear to be low in the rear. This may be caused by the rear springs.

    ACTION
    Replace the existing rear springs with revised springs. The revised springs provide a higher ride height at curb and reduce the possibility of the rear being too low. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. Verify that vehicle is low in the rear by measuring the ride height. To measure ride height, park truck on a known flat ground with no load in box.

    a. For 4X2: Measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X2 should be at a minimum 170 mm (Figure 1).

    b. For 4X4: Measure from the top of the spring spacer bar to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X4 should be at a minimum of 156 mm (Figure 1).

    2. If the vehicle is below the minimum specifications noted, remove existing rear springs and replace them with revised springs. Refer to the appropriate Ranger Workshop Manual for replacement procedures.

    NOTE : FINAL SPRING BUSHING TORQUE MUST BE PERFORMED WITH CURB WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE. IF THIS IS NOT PERFORMED, THE VEHICLE MAY LOSE RIDE HEIGHT AFTER LOADING/UNLOADING.

    NOTE : REFER TO THE VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL AND THE PARTS CATALOG TO DETERMINE THE CORRECT SPRING TO INSTALL. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-K" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-KA" LEVEL SPRING. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-C" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-CA" LEVEL SPRING.

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 99-22-1
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    EVAP Line - Idle Dips On Turns/Deceleration
    Article No.
    01-9-4

    05/14/01
    ^ DRIVEABILITY - IDLE DIPS BELOW 450 RPM -
    WHEN TURNING OR ON DECELERATION - WITH
    OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK

    ^ DRIVEABILITY - STALL - WHEN TURNING OR ON
    DECELERATION - WITH OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK

    FORD:
    2000 RANGER

    ISSUE
    Some vehicles may exhibit a stall or idle dip (below 450 rpm) during deceleration or while turning that will only occur with a fuel tank level of 3/4 or greater. Generally the stall occurs with no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) present. This may be caused by a restriction at the "Y" connection in the rear fuel vapor line.

    ACTION
    To diagnose, disconnect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) electrically (for test purposes only). If there is no change in the symptom, continue normal diagnostics by referring to Symptom Chart 1 in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Workshop Manual. If the condition is resolved by disconnecting the VMV, reconnect the VMV and replace the rear fuel vapor line. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. To access the rear fuel vapor line, remove the fuel tank. Refer to the 2000 Ranger Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.

    2. Disconnect the fuel vapor line from the charcoal canister.

    3. Remove the two (2) rear retaining clips from the frame rail. Remove the vapor line from the front two (2) retaining clips (leaving the clips in the rail).

    4. Disconnect the fuel vapor line at the front disconnect (near the fuel filter).

    5. Replace the fuel vapor line.

    6. Reconnect the fuel vapor line in the front and rear.

    7. Reinstall fuel tank. Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.

    Parts Block
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

    010904A Replace Rear Fuel Vapor 1.4 Hrs.
    Line (This Includes Time
    To Remove And Install
    Fuel Tank)

    DEALER CODING

    CONDITION
    BASIC PART NO. CODE
    9G291 17

    OASIS CODES: 607000, 607700
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    OR....You could VOID YOUR WARRANTY !!
    Engine Coolant - Propylene Glycol Recommendations
    Article No.
    01-23-6

    11/26/01
    ^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE GLYCOL - FORD
    MOTOR COMPANY POSITION ON ENGINE
    COOLANTS MADE FROM PROPYLENE GLYCOL

    ^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE
    GLYCOL-BASED - FORD MOTOR COMPANY
    POSITION ON PROPYLENE GLYCOL-BASED
    ENGINE COOLANTS

    FORD:
    1989-1993 FESTIVA
    1989-1994 TEMPO
    1989-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
    1989-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
    1994-1997 ASPIRE
    1995-2000 CONTOUR
    2000-2002 FOCUS
    2002 THUNDERBIRD
    1989-1990 BRONCO II
    1989-1996 BRONCO
    1989-1997 AEROSTAR, F SUPER DUTY
    1989-2002 ECONOLINE, F-150, RANGER
    1991-2002 EXPLORER
    1995-2002 WINDSTAR
    1997-2002 EXPEDITION
    1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
    2000-2002 EXCURSION
    2001-2002 ESCAPE, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
    2000-2002 F-650, F-750

    LINCOLN:
    1989-1992 MARK VII
    1989-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
    1993-1998 MARK VIII
    2000-2002 LS
    1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
    2002 BLACKWOOD

    MERCURY:
    1989-1994 TOPAZ
    1989-1997 COUGAR
    1989-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
    1991-1994 CAPRI
    1991-1999 TRACER
    1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
    1999-2002 COUGAR
    1993-2002 VILLAGER
    1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

    MERKUR:
    1989 SCORPIO, XR4TI

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year coverage.
    ISSUE
    This TSB article describes Ford Motor Company's position on the use of propylene glycol-based engine coolants.

    ACTION
    Ford Motor Company does not recommend nor endorse the use of engine coolants made with propylene glycol in Ford vehicles. Ford Motor Company currently recommends the use of ethylene glycol-based engine coolants.

    Published information suggests that engine coolants made with propylene glycol may provide engine cooling performance equivalent to engine coolants made with ethylene glycol. However, different brands of engine coolant provide varying corrosion protection for the cooling system. Ford does not have performance data for the multitude of engine coolants available in the aftermarket and therefore cannot recommend the use of any coolant except those sold by Ford Customer Service Division. Consult the vehicle's Owner's Guide to determine the appropriate Ford Customer Service Division coolant for the vehicle.

    Furthermore, claims of toxicological and environmental advantages of propylene glycol over ethylene glycol may be misleading. When significant new information is developed, Ford will review this policy.

    Ford Motor Company specifications recommend that vehicles be maintained using certain ethylene glycol-based engine coolants. Those specifications do not refer to engine coolants made with propylene glycol. Although the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty is not automatically voided upon the use of a coolant made with propylene glycol, if such use results in damage to the vehicle or its components, the cost of repairing the damage would not be covered by the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 96-16-4
    WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
    OASIS CODES: 402000
    Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    To help you maintain your Ranger. I will do my best.
  • I recently purchased a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT. It has the AM/FM/CD Stereo system. Monday on the way to school, I put a cd in it, and it said CD Error, 0001. I have tried several cd's and even a cd cleaner, but it hadn't helped. I haven't gotten my owner's manual from the dealer yet, so I can't look the code up there, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Are those CD's that you burned yourself ?
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