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Comments
I bought a used '01 4X4 recently with 13,000 miles and the previous owner told me that he had never rotated the tires. I inspected them very closely and if I ran my hand over the tread I could feel some very minor "chop" on the outside tread. I rotated them and have driven about 2500 miles since the rotation. The tires from the back (now on the front) look and feel perfect.
I plan to rotate (backs to front and fronts crossed to the rear) every 5000 miles. It sounds like the dealer is trying to take care of you since they swapped to the Pirellis.
Seems I'm having some problems with my 1996 Ford Ranger...it will not go into 4 wheel drive LOW.....i can click the dial on the dash over to low 4wd BUT the dash light only says 4wd high......then if and when it finally does go into low 4wd then it will not go out back into 2 wd
wondering if anyone has had similar promlems and what can it be?
Vince
pls email me at vince@falconecoins.com
http://www.rxp.com
I just posted last night to the Ranger III section #970 about my 94 Ranger w/ 241,000 mi.
(bought it new in 94) Some time you get lucky, I guess -- I'm not particularly good at maintenance
however I drive fairly easy and had just great service from this Ranger. It still looks near new, but, 10 times around the world might be pushing my luck. ....truly a GREAT truck.
thanks again
sean
frey44 Sep 17, 2002 4:14pm
And, for your year I think the switch is not in the doorjam, it is inside the door. On the locking assembly. To get to it you have to remove the door panel. Replace it or clean with WD40 or electrical cleaner.
what can be wrong? oil is ok.
like some ideas before I take it to the shop.
Steven
Article No.
02-13-8
07/08/02
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - 4R55E - 5R44E - 5R55E -
LOW LINE PRESSURE READING AT WIDE OPEN
THROTTLE (WOT) - SLIPPING SHIFTS AND/OR
DELAYED ENGAGEMENTS - POSSIBLE DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES P0732, P0733, P1762 SET -
VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 12/1/2001
FORD:
1995-2001 EXPLORER
1995-2002 RANGER
1996-1997 AEROSTAR
1999-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
MERCURY:
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER
Article 02-8-2 is being republished in its entirety to update the DTC codes, build dates and to update the Service Procedure.
ISSUE
Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:
^ Low line pressure readings while in DRIVE at
WOT
^ No 2nd gear
^ No 3rd gear
^ No engine braking in Manual 1st
^ Slipping shifts and/or delayed engagements
^ DTCs P0732, P0733 or P1762 may be present
This may be caused by improper pressures controlled by the Transmission Main Control assembly.
ACTION
If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control may need to be updated to the latest level or completely replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.
NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.
Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist:
^ Low line pressure while in Drive at WOT
^ Slipping/delayed shifts
^ Slipping/delayed engagements
^ No 2nd and/or No 3rd gear
^ No engine braking in Manual 1st
^ OD Band failed OFF
^ DTC P0732, P0733 or P1762 set
1. Verify that one of the conditions listed above exist with the vehicle.
2. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.
3. Remove the fluid pan and fluid pan gasket, discard the gasket. Refer to Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.
4. Inspect the fluid in pan for major contamination.
a. If major contamination IS present, refer to Procedure A, to replace the Main Control Assembly.
b. If major contamination is NOT present, refer to Procedure B, to Update the Main Control Assembly.
5. After completing procedure A or B, verify the condition has been corrected.
6. Clear all DTCs.
Procedure A:
<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693315>
1. If major contamination is present, follow normal Workshop Manual procedures to repair internal transmission damage. If the transmission is repaired remember that the the Main Control (7A100), Fluid Pan Gasket (7A191) and Fluid Filter (7A098) must be replaced. Refer to the application chart for the correct Main Control assembly to use.
Procedure B:
CAUTION A NEW SEPARATOR PLATE 7A008 OR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693316>
1. To UPDATE the main control to the new level, follow the steps listed in the Service Kit 1L5Z-7M203-JA (ALL KIT CONTENTS MUST BE USED). A new separator plate (7A008 or 7Z490), upper/lower separator plate gaskets (7C155 and 7D100 used only with a 7A008 plate), fluid pan gasket (7A191), and a fluid filter (7A098) must be used. ALL NEW PARTS MUST BE USED. Refer to Parts Application Chart for parts selection.
<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693317>
2. Install the Special Service Tools 307-333 and 307-334 (1 each) onto the main control (Figure 1).
3. Install a new service Separator Plate (refer to chart), make sure that the new plate has hole # 50 deleted, install the three (3) screw and tighten to 7 N.m (62 Lb-in).
4. Install a new separator plate to case gasket (7C155) if installing the 7A008 style separator plate. DO NOT INSTALL a 7C155 GASKET IF USING A 7Z490 Separator Plate.
5. Remove the special service tools.
6. Continue to follow the assembly steps as found in the assembly of sub-assembled, main control valve body.
7. Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the Installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.
<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693318>
LABOR OPERATION CLAIMING CHART
<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693319>
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 02-83
SUPERSEDES: 02-8-2
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
7A100 42
OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 503000
I can turn the switch, and the compressor and the A/C will function accordingly, but the flow of air is always directed to the windshield.
Looking at my Haynes manual, it seems that the Rangers up to '94 used blades (connected to the control by cables) to control the airflow. The manual does not give much information for models '95 and newer. I can only tell from the schematics, that the the switch seems to be electric. (But I have not idea what the expected output is supposed to be.)
Any idea where I should be able to get more information, so that I can start troubleshooting ?
Thanks a lot,
Martin
I use WD40 for cleaning greasy/dirty parts (like bicycle chains), but always follow up with a better lubricant once the parts have been cleaned.
But, it frees up stuff that's sticking.
And maybe a little goop left on it is better than electrical contact cleaner, which is completely solvent and totally evaporates, leaving no lube.
And Armorall slimes up stuff. And Rain-X streaks.
What did we do before this stuff?
Thanks for the transmission TSB, my 2001 4.0l 5sp auto (built 11/00) 25K miles has of late developed a delayed down shift into first gear. Sometime I have come to a complete stop for a second or two and them "klunk" it shifts into first. It up shifts fine and firm. Have removed power to reset the logic circuit but it still does it. What do you think? I still have 11K miles and 14 months of warranty.
Thanks
Goldranger
I don't know that I would use it for switch cleaning...
Don't think it's the differential. if i kick it into neutral before full stop no clunk. definitely think its the trans. As i said still have warranty left, so i won't baby it for sure. a total failure is much better for Ford to deal with. Thank you for the input. I read where Tundras tend to shake?? My last Toyota was a corona s/w. Still going strong at 240K when we sold it. I think that was my favorite car.
Having problem with the RPM's. When l engage the clutch the RPM's keep rising, mostly doing it in 4th to 5th. Shifting at 2500, it will climb to 3000. Doesn't do it all the time. The dealer has it right now they are having problems finding out what is wrong with it. If anyone have any ideas or had this problem before could help would be very helpful.
Also there is a whisseling noise coming from the rear-end, the dealer says that it needs to be worked in not sure that l believe then that been 1200 kilometers ago.
There is also a loud noise coming from the engine into the cabin. They are trying to figure that one out too.
If anyone can help it would be very helpful.
my email address is xfiles12345@msn.com
They are giving you the run-around. Very, very little on a vehicle gets quieter as it ages.
Having had the above problems, like several of you, I can offer some advice. I have seen numerous posts with possible fixes, which may or may not have been successful. Well, hopefully, the following information will help all of you in the future.
First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
Hope this info helps!
BTW if you are reading this airman53, it sounds like you might have a bad ball joint. I had the same squeaking over bumps that you are talking about. I was lucky in that mine was covered under warranty.
Guess we'll see.
M/T - M5OD Buzzing/Grinding Noise
Article No.
00-3-6
02/07/00
^ NOISE - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
^ TRANSMISSION - M5OD - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" NOISE DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
FORD:
1998-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4 synchronizer.
ACTION
Replace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serial number is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and is greater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.
NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW AND THE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ON THE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.
TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER INFORMATION
Transmission Application Tag Transmission Serial Number
2.5L I-4 4X2 F87A - AB less than 0629756
3.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - CA less than 0628220
3.0L V-6 4X4 F87A - DA less than D624514
4.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - EA less than D639401
4.0L V-6 4X4 FB7A - FA less than 0627480
1. Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
2. Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
3. Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly.
4. Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary.
5. Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
6. Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.
NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GO AWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THE GEAR CONE.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F2TZ-7124-AB Synchronizer Assembly (2.5L And 3.0L)
F2TZ-7124-CA Synchronizer Assembly (4.0L)
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 505000
Copyright © 2003 ALLDATA LLC
Terms of Use
good luck.
http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/trucks/ran.defective2.3l_031503.- htm