Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

midnight_stang · April 2003

replace the PCV valve? The rest sound like a good attempt... Maybe you can adjust the throttle body for an extra 100 rpm's at idle?

jtc411 · April 2003

yes, i just came back from the dealership again and he manually adjusted the idle. He said its not very common, and that the 4 cylinder generally has a rough idle just because its a small engine. But now that he manually adjusted the idle it runs just fine. I must say though, i should have bought the 6 cylinder, i was going to get a 4.0 6 cylinder in the identical truck, but opted for the 4 cylinder because of the fuel economy, and i must say i dont think its that big of a difference...im only getting about 19mpg

midnight_stang · April 2003

my old 93 had the 2.3l, same engine as you, just a little less stroke. It received 21 MPG in the city even after 140,000 miles. Other than remove the air intake snorkle, and keep good wires and plugs in it, it was bone stock. I did run injector cleaner every once in a while, and also notice a big difference from using zMax. I tried duralube and other brands but they just didn't seem to last. zMax make my engine purr like a kitten, and greatly reduced internal friction. You might look into it as your truck increases in milage. Hopefully the recent fuel filter change will help too. And don't forget the o2 sensors...

Also, FYI, my 2003 3.0l gets about 16 MPG in the city. Which is quite different from the 20+ you can get with a 2.3l, but my engine only has 2,500 miles on it. Still gotta break her in. I have heard the 4.0l getting equal or better milage, but I am sure it will suck it down worse if you have the lead foot. A manual transmission usually increases your MPG too.

chstr1000 · April 2003

I have a 2002 Ranger. I do all services myself. Just wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any grease fittings. I have not been able to find any. Just curious.

Thanks, David

dunny6 · April 2003

I have an 2002 Ranger with the 6 CD changer. I tried to eject a CD and I got a CD Error on the display. Now the CD opening is open, but I cant eject (or play) any CDs. Has anyone had this problem, is there a quick fix, or do I have to take it to the dealer.

Thanks.

goldranger · April 2003

dunny6,

I have an 01 with the 6 CD radio. I always felt warm to me, then one day it went stone dead. Dealer replaced it with a brand new one. The new one does not even feel warm at all. If it's under warranty, take it back, they should replace it with out a problem. The Ford audio warranty for all SE US is here in Jax, FL. They were suspossed to open the radio (Ford dealer won't do it) and return my 6 CDs. Took a letter to the GM of the dealer to get them to move on that. I seem to remember reading an earlier msg on one of these boards of this radio getting hot and melting CDs causing them to stick. Get a new radio.

Good Luck
Goldranger

harriet4 · April 2003

I have a 1986 Ranger that has been nothing but problems since I bought it - but I keep it for my son's insurance at this point. I've been looking for a new truck, and was very disappointed in the Tacoma; the cab is tiny, and the power is poor. The Tundra seems too large. SO, what I am looking for is info from current Ranger owners to find out if they are better than when I bought mine. Are they reliable? Do you need a full-time mechanic to keep it running? Thanks!

harriet4 · April 2003

51000 is NOT a lot of miles for most vehicles - maybe for Fords! That's barelygetting started for Toyotas and Subarus!

jroman4 · April 2003

Upon cold starting my truck it doesn’t want to run. On some warm starts it acts the same. But once I drive it awhile and warms up it is fine. Upon staring it cold I have to drive the first few miles with a foot on the brake and one on the accelerator so that when I stop the truck doesn't die. I dropped it off at an ASE certified mechanics shop and they can’t figure out the problem. If anyone can advise if the have had similiar problems and can point out any possible causes and fixes for this problem it would be appreciated. Thanks

bolivar · April 2003

I've heard these symptoms come from a defective temperature sensor.

You have 2 temp sensors, one for the temp gauge, and another for the 'computer', telling it when the engine is cold/hot. The 'computer' one is probably bad. Both are on or around the thermostat housing. I think the one you need to replace has 2 wires to it......

slickhead13 · April 2003

I am new to this board, and about a month ago i bought a 98 automatic four-cylinder and my air bag light stays on it will flash when you first start it then go off and then stay on after that. i have tried disconnecting the battery and it still comes. I would just like to know if my air bag is disengaged or what. If you have any clue it would be a big help

dunny6 · April 2003

Goldranger,
Thanks for the info. I actually was able to eject the stuck CD (with the help of a small knife). The problem CD was a copy and had a sticker label on it. I guess with the heat, the sticker began to bubble which caused the problem.

Be careful with sticker labels in the 6CD changer (& probably all CD players).

pennyi · April 2003

Hello everyone I'm in the process of buying a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge. Tell me the pro's and con's of this? I have been reading about the ride and all but my thought on that is a smaller truck rougher ride. And about what price range is everyone paying if you don't mind me asking?

jtc411 · April 2003

Guys its me again, just to refresh a little. I have a 98 ford ranger xlt auto 2.5 4 cylinder. My idle is extremely rough. The truck runs just fine, but when i go to stop at a light it bogs down low and runs rough, and it gets even worse when i have my heat or A/C on. I have had it looked at several times and everyone says thats just how they run, but i cannot believe that ford would put out vehicle that runs like that. My truck only has 53k miles on it! can someone please help, i am no the verge of selling it because its pissing me off! thanks guys!

midnight_stang · May 2003

harriet, I don't know what you were trying to say in post 674, but I am on my 2nd Ranger. My first '93 made it 140,000 miles with the only major replacement being a transmission at 120,000 (auto). Not bad for my first teenage vehicle. My 2003 is just a good, if not better. All vehicles will last if 1. They are not a lemon and 2. They are maintained correctly. and 3. You follow the maintenance schedule.

slickhead, your airbag light is stuck? Is this the passenger button disable light, or the dash light by the guages? Since you bought the vehicle used, it's a possibility it has been in a wreck and was deployed. Perhaps it was fixed by a shadetree mechanic who only replaced the airbag, and not the sensor that tripped it. Just an idea. I don't know 98's, so maybe it's supposed to be on all the time? I know blinking is definitely a problem... Maybe on is good? I don't know...

dunny6, I hate CD Labels... They eat up toner, and jam up many cd-players (not just fords) I much prefer a sharpie marker, but it doesn't look as good...

pennyi, I own a 2003 Edge and I love it. My truck is an Edge model too, so it has a 4x4 suspension, just not the drivetrain. That does make it a rougher ride than cars, but it is still very smooth and civil on the payment. I paid a little over 14,000 on after TTL & Rebates, payments are $301. Not too shabby. Only complaints, 4.0l v6 not a regular option on the regular cabs any more, the 4 speakers are fairly weak, but the 6 disc cd-changer is great. I love the ride height, the 60/40 bench seats with high backs, and my 3.0l with a manual transmission is pretty quick. It's a tough and fun little truck to own!

jtc, that doesn't sound normal. It sounds like a tired motor. It's been about 5 years, Have you tried a tune up, new filters, flushing the motor oil and coolant, cleaning your throttle body, changing out the fuel filters, and maybe adjusting your throttle cable? I would start with the throttle body, and try the cheaper fixes first.

evernerf · May 2003

My recently purchased 98 ranger seems to stay revved up as I engage the clutch as I come to a stop. When I slow down to below 5mph it will idle down. It is very annoying. I have the 2.5, 5 speed. Any ideas?

tgordo · May 2003

Got '02 XLT 4X4 OffRoad pkg. Started hearing lo-pitch whine/whirring noise,especially after a long drive. Now,sometimes even hear it on take-off,cold start! Didn't hear it till 20000 miles or so. Naturally, took it to Dealer& didn't do it THAT time! They said it was my TIRES!,cupped,from lack of rotation! Almost all driving done on winding mountain roads,so sure their cupped!Also had as another hall member said"Engine stalled on severe sharp turn once!

jtc411 · May 2003

Thanks but i have already done: fuel injection cleaning, fuel filter, oil change, mass airflow sensor, air filter, cleaned the throttle body, and i have had diagnostics and they find nothing. I am sooo annoyed by this problem you dont even know. I LOVE my truck, but I am seriously considering just dropping it and getting a car, sad huh? but if this problem can be resolved somehow the truck will stay with me for sure, if you or ANYONE has had a similar problem or can somehow figure this out i would be estatic. Thanks fellas

stanners · May 2003

My '99 Ranger has 31K miles and was purchased on 9-30-99. I was doing the spring wax job and noticed that the paint was bubbled along the bottom tailgate seam and would peel off with my finger nail! I took it to he local dealer and was first told by the Body Shop Mgr that Ford would repair. Now, when I take it in for repair, I am told Ford will not cover and I would have to pay!

I called Ford Consumer Affairs and got the standard line how they sorry they are but I exceed the 36 month warranty!

I have 3 other Ford products and this call was a test to see how Ford would handle and they failed!

I was going to trade my '98 Mustang for a '03 but not now!

Ranger owners check your tailgates for paint problems!

tgordo · May 2003

Had a bad wreck(Head-on,Not My fault!)Wemt lookin for a replacement. Tacoma 1st. Salesman didn't wanna sell one I guess(Even tho I had CASH!)Chevy didn't have a S10 4X4!Went around corner,Loved the Ranger!Still do! Live in trailer park along with 10 other Rangers. Brother has new Silverado,wants trade to Ranger!I don't care if the Dealer(s)suck,I'll fix it myself.As my ol' Gramps use to say:"Boy those Fords got the best styling"(Him OLDS MAN,from Mich.)Now I'm Disabled,won't have cash for new one again,I'll Drive 'er Up To Heaven!

zamboniman30 · May 2003

I have a '98 3.0 Ranger, 57K mi. About two weeks ago, the serpentine belt started squeeling, originally only in cold and would normally go away. But now it is all the time. I have bought both "Belt Dressing" and "Silicon Spray", to try and help the problem. When I spray it on the belt while it is running it will instantly go quiet, but only for a short time, sometimes only a mile or so. It is a new belt 8 months ago, and does not show any signs of misalignment or improper installation. I don't know what to replace first, belt, pulley, or tensioner? Has anyone had this problem, or can you please help? Thanks

jtc411 · May 2003

I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5, and i had that problem with the serpentine belt, i finally broke down and brought it to the dealership and they put a new one on there, havent had a problem since. I tried all of that lubrication stuff, best thing to do is just replace it through the dealership, or take it to my favorite (car-x)

seyorni · May 2003

Zamboniman. Glad to hear you've solved the belt problem -- though I suspect there may be a tensioner problem since the squealing occurred on a relatively new belt. A few comments on belt dressings, though. Regular belt dressings make the belt stickier so it doesn't slip over the pulleys as easily. This is never a permanent fix. The problem will recurr. I've never used the silicon sprays but they appear to do the opposite of the regular, sticky sprays -- The belt will still slip but it will do it more quietly. Using both would create an interesting "battle of the dressings" Glue vs lubricant. Inasmuch as replacing the belt is relatively cheap that would be the best approach. Be sure to check the belt tension, though (simple) and the pulley alignment (more complicated but not rocket science)to ensure the problem won't recurr down the road

aspesisteve · May 2003

I'm looking at '96 XLT V6 with 40k miles or a '98 XLT V6 with 82k miles. Both are asking the same price ($7,200)and appear to be clean. Is there an obivious choice here?

From Edmunds, the only significant change I can see is a different trany implemented in '97. Does that mean the trany prior to '97 was prone to problems?

Appreciate any advice.

jtc411 · May 2003

I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5 l4 with 53k miles on it, and i dont mind it besides the fact it has a rough idle(who knows no one can help) but other than that its a solid truck. Between 96 and 98 the only major difference is yes the tranny(they switched over to the mazda tranny) and the body of the truck. The 98 definately looks alot cooler, but for the asking price i would go after the 96 with lower milage, but definately try to slim that asking price from 7200 to say 6500 or so. Both years are solid though(more cab room in the 98)

volcom378 · May 2003

i dont know if you've gotten it yet but it tottaly depends on what you want in a truck. I own a 2002 edge with the 4.0L V6 and it is quick. the only problem is it guzzules gas quicker than a fat man eating twinkies, but thats normal for a truck nowadays. my truck was MSRP 22,000 i drove off paying 17,000 and with 0 down(ford has a crapload of incentives and rebates) i am paying 280(red-carpet lease) a month for 3 years and 15K a year. so do the math, its aforadable, fun and a truck, but i'm selling mine ($$$-gas is a biach)

bolivar · May 2003

A couple of things. And you might have already tried these.

1) New plug wires. At 56,000 miles, I think you are due for these. Also new plugs. If you can work on it yourself, these are cheap, less than $40 or so.
2) The Idle Control Solnoid (ICS) I think is the name. This is a silver and black cylinder on the side of the intake. It controls the idle. Has 2 wires into it. It basically is a solnoid and an air valve into the intake. It can clog up with gas vapors. Unbolt it, carefully, and clean the valve part (not the solnoid!) with carb cleaner. If done carefully you should not mess up the gasket under it. This can also be replace, but it is rather expensive, $50 or more.
3)Has the fuel filter been changed? At 56,000 this also is due. If plugged up some, this usually causes high speed problems, but might also cause idle problems.

sbarone1 · May 2003

I have a week-old 2003 FX 4 Level II with about 100 miles on it. It has a 5-speed and the manual floor-mounted transfer-case lever. When I had the truck to highway speed for the first time, I kept trying to turn off the ventilation fan, until I realized the noise was coming from the transfer case. At about 40 MPH and above, the case makes a lot of noise, almost like gears that arent lubricated. I know its near the case, because I can change the vibration note by placing my hand on the lever. At certain times, the case vibrates enough for the trim to go into resonance. Accelerating from about 20 MPH in third gear, the transfer case makes a sort of zippering noise. I dont know how else to describe it. I took it to the dealer and, believe it or not, they replaced the tranny! But the thing still makes noise, and now they say thats as good as it gets. Ive owned four 4 x 4s since 1994, and never heard one this loud. Anybody have any ideas?? Its driving me crazy.

jtc411 · May 2003

Unfortunately Ford is starting to make crappy vehicles. I leased a 2003 chevy s10 4x4 and loved it, it felt high quality and was just an awesome quiet comfortable ride. Until i realized i couldnt afford it, i then went to a 98 ford ranger and everything about it feels cheap. But what your describing doesnt seem right, what you might wanna try doing is going and test driving another one and see if it does it, and if it doesnt go back to the dealer and tell them you want to switch vehicles( a good dealer will do that for you)

Justin

midnight_stang · May 2003

You think Ford is making crappy vehicles by comparing a 2003 S-10 to a 1998 Ranger? LOL, how about comparing 2 vehicles from the same year, and in the same price range. Besides check the Chevy problem forums, and you'll see it's not like any vehicle make is the golden goose.

tgordo · May 2003

2003 level 2 Noisy! If you haven't check out blueovalnews.com They have alot of Ford Techs giving you a history/solutions to Ford problems.I have an 02 Ranger 4X4 Off-Road XLT,No noises in my transfer case(although mine is shift on fly)You'll love that site!

jtc411 · May 2003

No dude, i was comparing it to the 2003 ford ranger i was considering. Im just saying the S-10 felt like it was made a little more solid. the insides of the rangers feel like they were cheaply made etc

soco2 · May 2003

Recently, I replaced the shocks of my 16,000 mile-old 2000 Ranger Supercab 3.0 V-6. The originals were allowing too much body motion, the rear axle hopped so easily on washboard roads that the rear end swung out alarmingly on even very low-speed turns, and bumps and potholes produced suspension jolts and noises that created feelings of mechanical sympathy. Working the original units by hand, I was amazed by how little damping there was in the bump or compression mode, and how little gas pressure there was.

I decided on Monroe Reflex shocks as the replacements. I wanted improved ride control, but not the stiffness of high-pressure units such as KYBs. Now, with about 300 miles of experience with the Monroes, I can say that I am pleased with my decision. The ride is a more tightly-snubbed at low speeds (the gas pressure is surprisingly high for a low-pressure design, and the valving is less soft than The Shock Warehouses description indicated)), control of body motions is much better, and there is so much more absorbing of impacts going on!

hciaffa · June 2003

Some advice needed. I have a 98 XLT with the cruise controls in the steering wheel. One of the lamps went out and I can't seem to figure out on how to get at the bugger. I'm Worried on removal of the air bag housing as they can be tempermental and go off accidentally. Any suggestions would be appriciated.

rhigh · June 2003

Just wanted to know is the timing chain tensioner still a problem in the 2003 4.0 soch motors??

dchinn · June 2003

Just bought a 2003 Ranger XL 5 spd 2.3L (no frills base model) for $9.6K OTD rebates and all. Yes, I test drove it and realized that it was low on power to accelerate but I'm no speed demon. The price to too good to pass up compared to a Chevy S10, Mazda B2300 or Tacoma w/ the same std features. 1st 500 miles mpg was about 26 + both city/hwy.

Only peeve is that the Ranger sits up higher than the other P/Us (higher center of gravity) which causes the truck to want to tip when rounding a curve. Besides adding suspension parts or changing to 16 inch rims and lower/wider profile tires which cost some $$$, is there any other practical or cheaper fixes to alleviate this tendency.

brucelinc · June 2003

My 2001 4X4 has accumulated a lot of dust/lint behind the clear lens that covers the gauges. Can anyone tell me how that clear plastic comes off so I can clean in behind it? There are two screws at the top of the housing but I am not sure what else is involved or if I must get behind the dash. I don't want to be too rough with it because I would hate to cause a rattle. Any ideas on the procedure? Thanks!

ronmcq · June 2003

Do I believe the dealer or not?
I took my new '03 B2300 (Ranger Clone) into the dealer for a clunking that can be heard and felt through the steering wheel yesterday. They called late in the afternoon saying they could feel it too but were having problems tracking the source down. Got a call from them today saying it was normal on the trucks with the tilt wheel per the manufacturer. Has anyone else with the tilt wheel experienced this problem? If so I'd really appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Ron

liman · June 2003

Ron -
I have a 2003 Ranger with tilt. Never have felt any kind of clunk, except for a bit of adjustment when I first tilt the wheel down, but that is common to all tilt wheels I have used. When does it occur?

ronmcq · June 2003

JC, the clunking is felt intermittently and generally within the first 1/2 rotation of the wheel while initiating a turn. I was thinking along the lines of a slight binding of the steering shaft/tilt knuckle. While not severe, it is a bit disconcerting. The dealer said they found the same non-problem in 6 other trucks they test drove after talking to the manufacturer. I've two other vehicles with tilt and have never experienced this before. I may have to test a few myself to be convinced.
Thanks for your reply,
Ron

solis3 · June 2003

anyone have any insight as to how best and quickest to replace the lamps in the instrument cluster? my 98 ranger XLT's have gone out one by one until there are none left. also why does the dome light stay on? I can't see a switch on the door to adjust. greatly appreciated.

bolivar · June 2003

The dome light switch is inside the door. Inside of the outside door handle. The linkage in there activates a push switch.

Some people say WD40 or electrical cleaner sprayed into the latch can free it up. Most people say you need to pull the door panel off to actually get to the switch and give it a good spray, or replace it.

Dash light going out, one by one? Whoa, this is kind of scary. I've never seen all of them go out. This looks like there might be some bad grounds or bad leads somewhere to cause this, a problem with the circuit board of the instrument panel. You probably need a manual to tell you how to remove the dash trim and instrument panel to get to these. You have to get the panel out to get to the lights which plug into it.

goldranger · June 2003

dchinn,
quickest and easiest is to add a rear sway bar. you can get aftermarket for around $130 I think or check out a junkyard for a late model Explorer Sport. They have a rear sway bar and should fit. Be sure you get all the connecting parts. I'd like to do that for my 01 4.0 extra cab,m just haven't found the time

dchinn · July 2003

Thanks for the advice. Will check into it. Would the Explorer rear sway bar fit the Ranger? Is it the same type axle?

goldranger · July 2003

dchinn,
not sure of part #s, but I believe the the explorer sport's frame a& rear axle are pretty much the same. You would want to stay with a 99 or later. Check internet for a company called ADDCO. They make after market suspension parts. I've used them a number of years ago and quality and performance were excellent.

sambojoho · July 2003

a lot of problems with the newer Rangers. I just wanted to say that I have a 94 Ranger with 170k miles on it. I have had no problems with it at all. So, for anyone considering a good used truck, I would strongly recommend the 93-95 model years, especially with a 2.3L motor and the Mazda 5spd.

hottubdave · July 2003

frey44 or anyone that may know----

I have a 1995 Ranger XLT 4x4, 4.0L, auto, 130,000 miles, that experiences the same description in TSB 01-11-11 --- Driveline-Thump/clunk Noise on initial acceleration or coming to a stop.

The TSB mentions that it is for Ranger years, 1998-2001. Is there a separate TSB for the '95 or would it possibly be the same?

-HTD

tgordo · July 2003

I thought I got a Good price on a Trans Fluid Flush at one of the "lube N Tune Shops.I insisted in the MerconV for my 02 Ranger as Factory Spec.They said it WAS Mercon with an additive to make it Mercon V!I haven't had any problems,YET,but I guess I'll get what I pay for!Has anyone heard of any of these Mercon/Additive Ford Equivalents?I'm trying to save money on Disability,and I sure don't need a Trip to Small Claims,if I have trouble.Just wish I had some reassurance as to anyones knowledge of Mercon being made into Mercon V,with their additive.Should I file my Fraud Claim Now?

hciaffa · July 2003

I had my tranny power flushed and refilled at a local Pep Boys abut 2 yrs ago on my 98 XLT 4X4 and I have had no problems. I was told the same thing that its Mercon fluid with specified additives added. Basically its a synthetic blended fluid. Went to the dealer and talked to the parts guy I knew and he said samething. In fact if they don't have the MerconV in stock they use the regular Mercon and add the additives as well. Another opinion I went to a local tranny shop, not Aamco but and independent and he said the same so I feel confident about it. Just save the reciept of the work in case something does go wrong.

mytidawg · July 2003

Hello y'all

I have a 96 xlt 4x4 Ranger and when the weather seems to get really hot and i'm running the AC my engine at idle makes a loud humming noise.....augh...when I start driving the sound goes awayalso it used to stop if i would turn off the ac

And now it seems that it is doing it more so , even if i turn off the ac and even the fan it still humms...i do have an airfilter on there, took the stock one out and put in a K&N Air Filter

my mechanic buddy told me THIS was the problem....does any else out there experience this weird humming sound......kinda sounds like ALiens are landing or as one guy asked me "hey man....you got a blower on under the hood?!"

pls email any response to me at

vince@falconecoins.com

thanks

Vince
San Jose CA

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