Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

shaggszgn · July 2003

Hi there. I am current looking into buying a small pop-up camper trailer, and I was woundering if my 97 Ranger (2.3L I4, Auto w/OD, 56,000miles) can handle it for 2-3 trips a year. The camper wieght is somewhere around a 1,000-1,500lbs.(with in spec. according to the manual.)

Also my check engine light likes to comes on and stay on for awhile. It'll stay on for a couple days, then the light will go off for 3-4days. It dosen't come on while driving, It'll either stay on or go off like it should when I start my truck. The engine itself is running great, no problems there. Any suggestions?

Thanks..

tgordo · July 2003

Thanks Man,For Helping ease my mind a bit!You said exactly what I wanted to hear!I had 3 different answers from the folks at Econo Lube.And with their Reputation,I was a bit Sceptical.They did really check and recheck though,to get the Dipstick reads within limit.Thanks for your input! Tom

dchinn · July 2003

Forgot who asked the question about military rebates earlier. I finally had the time to call Ford Motor Customer Relations. They do have a rebate for military members which will expire within the next two weeks. They notify all dealers. The rebate $$$ comes from Ford and not from the dealership which does not hurt the dealer's bottom line but help bring in more potential customers. When I bought my Ranger from the dealer this past June, the salesperson and the assistant sales manager knew nothing about it and said it was a GM thing. As I investigated further with Ford, they gave me the scoop. Not all dealers sign up for it as it's more paperwork??? Anyways, I called the dealership up again and asked for the sales manager to check into it for me and he was surprised (after he checked into it 30 minutes later) that they were participating in the program. All he needed was my military ID which I faxed to him to get the paper processed. I believe the rebate is $500 but I'll be happy in getting something back. BTW, this info is not on the Ford website (they just have the overseas Military Purchase Program).

bolivar · July 2003

A/C humming - have you heard the noise just after you shut the motor down when the air cond is running? This is the freon moving around in the system from high to low pressure areas.... Any chance this is what you hear? At idle I can sometimes hear the freon making noise in my 1994.

Otherwise, if there is humming without the air cond runnning - probably the ICV (Idle Control Valve), think this is the name for it. This controls the idle speed. It's a black and silver cylinder on the side of the intake with two wires into it. Its a valve and solnoid thingie that meters air into the intake at idle. When it's dirty, it can hum. It can be removed (careful with the gasket), two screws, and the valve part cleaned with carb cleaner. Don't get this into the solnoid part.
When its dirty you will also have an unstable idle - too high or low or surging.....

Something to check anyway.

jtc411 · July 2003

hey guys, i have a 98 ford ranger xlt 2wd 2.5l 4 cylinder...i dont have a problem but wonder if you guys knew anything about horsepower...i know im running at 119hp right now...but what do you think the most i could max that out at, with mods not overly expensive? i was hoping to get it higher...and the next thing im doing is putting a dual pipe flowmaster exhaust system...i dont know if that adds much if anything...but say i was to do a K&N airfilter...with a homemade cold air intake system...how much do you think that would all ad up to hp wise? and any other suggestions im open too...but not looking to spend alot alot

midnight_stang · July 2003

Well it's hard to say exactly how much you will gain, but with a true cat-back system, K&N air filter and cold air kit, you should probably see about 10-15 hp increase. Just remember that is Peak Horsepower, not mean or average horsepower. You will probably lose some low end torque, with a radial K&N and dual exhaust, but you will feel benefit at the higher RPMs.

Other things to do, remove air snorkle from air box, replace intake tube with smooth metal, possible MAF modification or throttle body upgrade, upgaded spark plugs, new plug wires, underdrive pulleys, lower weight synthetic motor oil, port matching of head, header, and a cat-back exhaust.

With all of the above done, I think figures over 150 hp are reasonable, and it would feel like a new engine.

jtc411 · July 2003

how much would all of this cost? because i am so mad at myself for not getting the 4.0 v6...im trying to compensate my dissatisfaction for the 4 cylinder with some horsepower...though my 4 cylinder because of the weight of my truck, it feels very quick...i have beaten a v6 f150 before...question remains...if i were to put some pipes on there and take off the muffler...how woudl that sound? also prices on performance upgrades...THANX!

bolivar · July 2003

Trade for a 4L.

Since you already bought used, I would think you would not lose the kind of money as if you traded an almost-new 4 cylinder.

In my opinion, you have a 4 cylinder, and it will always be a 4 cylinder. If you are worried about the cost of power upgrades, I don't see you ever 'getting your money's worth' by pouring money and upgrades into a 4 cylinder. You really will not get anything back on them when you sell the truck. Many people will run from a truck with extensive mods, thinking it probably was abused also.

When looking at used Rangers, I drove a 4 cylinder - and it was seriously underpowered for me. I drove a 3L and thought that was a little more like it. I drove a 4L manual and burned the tires starting off. I said 'wooo' what's happening here. The salesman clued me in about Rangers having 2 V6's, which I didn't know. That's when I decided the 4L was for me.

Bottom line - If you want fast, buy fast. Don't try to build it, unless you have a lot of money you are willing to put into a vehicle and never get much of it back. And also remember, these are trucks, they are designed for torque, not speed. And milage will also be low since they are shaped like a rolling brick.

jtc411 · July 2003

well its a 1998 with 56k miles on it...and i just bought it about 6 months ago...its not that i dont like it...and its a quick little truck...but for me i dont really plan on getting rid of it for probably atleast 3 years...im not trying to make it quick so i can make some money off of it...im just doing it to give it a little more pep...im running at 120 hp right now..and am hoping to get it in the 150 range with some minor modes...such as the jet 2 mod chip(15 hp)...flowmaster exhuast with no muffler(15hp) and a K&N airfilter and home made cold air intake(10 hp)...so basically i can get 50 hp for about 500 dollars...where i would have to take a serious loss for my truck and spend another 2 grand to get a 6 cylider which is only 20 more hp

bolivar · July 2003

You are hoping for a 25% increase in horsepower with 'mods' on a 4 cylinder engine. You are not going to get it. Period.
The manufactors of these devices lie, you will not get this kind of increase with whatever a 'chip' can do (mainly increase the timing advance, which may make it run hot. They usually recommend a 160 degree thermostat to conteract this. Which may put the engine management computer into 'open loop' process, especially in the winter, which will reduce milage.), minor increase in intake air flow, and minor increase in exhaust flow.
Save this money toward a 4L purchase in the three years you talk about.
Buy a 4L OHC which is a factory rated 205+ HP(something like this number). These are 2001 and later models, and they are much stronger than my 94 4L.

midnight_stang · July 2003

There are much better Ford Ranger forums out there which contain lots of enthusiasts who have done lots to their Rangers. Like a 3.0l Ranger pulling in low 16 second quarter miles. It all depends on how far you want to go.

Have you ever looked at the exhaust ports, or your exhaust manifold? There is clear oportunity for improvement, but it will cost money and time.

But the point that should be brought up is if it is important to you. Yes, it's easier to start out with more cubic inches, and then you can do performance mods to add more power. This would be the best way to go, but if buying a new(er) truck is not feasible, then why not?

It is not just a small increase to your intake and exhaust. While it can start out that way, there is a sum whole to what you can do, and it can make a big difference over time. Plus some people just enjoy working on their truck, or trying something new. But you are right about the manufacturer claims. My 3.0l makes an advertised 154 horsepower. My gibson cat-back advertises 10-15 hp gain. I figure 5 horsepower is a safe and realistic claim, so I figure I'm at around 160 now (also with a airbox modification).

Also, jtc, remember I mentioned "Peak Horsepower, not mean or average horsepower" which is basically what you will be affecting. Its not like the 2.3l 4 cylinder can't be fast (Anybody remember the 84 SVO 2.3? While not the exact same block it was the same displacement)

But to answer your question JTC, it depends on the pipes you put on. I just put a Gibson cat-back on my truck and love it. Not much louder, but definitely more of a growl. Flowmasters would be more throaty, but it will still sound like a 4 cylinder. Hopefully other 2.3l owners will chime in with their experience with certain exhausts.

But also just remember that you will have a very stout 4 cylinder motor. My 1993 2.3l was still running great after 140,000 miles, and that included many years of teenage abuse.

bolivar · July 2003

You said "It all depends on how far you want to go..... There is clear oportunity for improvement, but it will cost money and time.'

That is exactly what I am saying - If you want fast, buy fast. If you don't you are going to pour money into what you initially bought to get fast. And many times you won't get as fast as if you spent that money to initially buy fast.

And I am not talking about people that like to work themselves on their vehicles. I personally understand the feeling of satisification that comes when you've done something successfully yourself, with your own hands.

But many of the people you see posting on these message boards can't do their own work. They are on a limited budget buying into a vehicle, but then are willing to feed additional money into it as time goes by. I just feel this is false economy all the way. If you can't buy fast at the first, save more money before you jump into the first purchase, then buy fast initially. You will always be ahead of the game - in my opinion.

midnight_stang · July 2003

It is more cost effective to buy your power off the showroom floor. That also comes with the nice warranty. But if you can't afford a new vehicle, you can improve what you have. Granted, any big gains will cost big money.

And one thing is for certain, rear wings, stickers, lowering kits, body kits, cutting springs, and 500 pounds of audio/visual equipment does NOT make your car fast...

jtc411 · July 2003

well im not trying to be in fast and the furious 3 or anything...im just looking for some extra performance...not looking to spend a grand...besides a minor idle problem...i have never had a problem with my 2.5l 4 cylinder...and honestly its no v6...but its quick for only being 119 hp...so yeah...i appreciate your help but i have decided to go open element k&n airfilter, and a magnaflow cat-back exhaust system with 3" pipes...whatya guys think?

bolivar · July 2003

...Buy a nice evening out with your girlfriend.

Or, open a savings account with that $200-500 at a Credit Union. Then, in three years, this Credit Union might be giving better loan rates than the dealerships (you can't beat their 0% right now, but who knows what the future holds). And, you've got that $500 + Interest (even a little will help) and maybe more because you've gotten into the practice of saving a little each payday....

And you will have a much better chance of BUYING FAST!

Keep this outlook for the next 35 years and you can have a nice retirement.

Otherwise, in 3 years you have a nasty, oily air filter and a rusted out exhaust which will probably detract from the resale value of your truck.

Yea, I know, this is your grandpaw talking to you...

midnight_stang · July 2003

Being my first new vehicle purchase at age 25, I got my 2003 Ranger Edge 3.0l reg cab. I had to get a v6, but couldn't find a 4.0l in a regular cab (fleet order only). Combine that with a manual transmission and it's not slow, but it's not gonna beat up a mustang. I put the Gibson Cat-back on it, but it is stainless steel, so it'll last a good while. 2.5" all the way back, I believe. That and a little airbox modification is all I have done, so it's not fast, but it was a cheap vehicle to begein with, and the upgrades have definitely helped in terms of sound (/appearance) and performance. Soon I will be opening up my MAF sensor which basically entails removing the plastic shielding around the actual sensor. That is supposed to be really noticable during the higher RPMs. So it's stuff like that, that can be done to increase your satisfaction with your vehicle.

But nothing too drastic or bank breaking because I am really curious and tempted to see what the 2005 (or 2006? remodel) of the Ranger will be. If Ford gets off their butt and finally puts in the 4.6l v8, you know what I'll be getting.

deuskid · July 2003

a used ranger and wondered if the 2.5 is adequate w/ manual transmission or do I need the 3.0? Will need a/c to survive summers in St.L. Is either superior from a maintenance point of view?

jtc411 · July 2003

hey man, i have a 98 2.5 auto...and i dont mind it...its not as fast as i want it to be...if you are looking to be fast then go with the 4.0...if you just kinda want something that moves and does whats needed...then the 2.5 is the way to go

dslexik · July 2003

Have any of you had problems with your air conditioning.

I have a '97 Mazda B-2300 (a Ranger) with 47,000 miles and can't get my AC to work. I'll turn on the AC and will hear it click in and then stop. 10 sec later it tries to kick in again and nothing.

silvercoupe · July 2003

I am currently driving a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 engine (company vehicle) with 100k miles. Valve clatter is awful when engine is under load. Any suggestions?

nra1871 · July 2003

I got that clatter on my 3L 99 Ranger. Ford tried a number of things, including replacing the computer and ignition coils, and advancing the timining. Nothing fixed it. I was able to minimize it by hitting the overdrive button when I was around town. This prevented the transmission from shifting into 4th at 40mph, as Ford seems to have programmed it to do. I think the strain of the engine trying to accellerate in such a high gear made the noise a lot worse. I eventually gave up and just lived with it until I sold it due to a number of other issues.

tgordo · July 2003

Been trying to get Voltage to the Frame Fuel Pump Connector.Reads less than 2 Volts!Bench tested pump at 12 volts,works.Tested Inertia Switch,got contiuity and 12 volts at the connector.Replaced Relay and got 12 volts there.Fuse is OK.Is there another pump in the Tank?Is the Fuel Pump Controlled thru the EEC-IV Computer?Can I get a Cheap Diag. Tester,If neede.Got a Chiltons Electronic Engine Controls Book,but only goes up to 85.Can we Use the Jumper Wire Test?Or is there any code related to Fuel Pump and Controls?Got the 2.9L. V6.Thanks T.

seyorni · August 2003

JTC, You can increase power with a low resistance intake & exhaust -- air filter & muffler -- but keep in mind this will lean your fuel mixture and cause your engine to run hot. You can counter this by enriching your fuel delivery, but with a computerised fuel injection system this could be a major project. An aftermarket cam could make a big difference, but I don't know if anyone makes these. Have you considered a Jacob's ignition system? It's one of the few aftermarket mods that actually work. Jacobs guarentees an increase in both power and gas mileage or your money back.

harim18 · August 2003

I have a "94 Ranger 4x2, 3.0 with 86K. When you start out and your speed gets toward 15mph you get a hard shift from first to second. If you accelerate slow and easy it shifts smoothly. Also in town when the trans. is shifting up thru the gears and you have to back off the accelerator, say between third and fourth, the trans. make a "clunking" sound. Would appreciate all advice, comments, and suggestions etc.
Thank you!!

midnight_stang · August 2003

Sounds like your transmission oil viscosity is too high, or just getting to old. What's the last time you had it flushed and the filter changed?

harim18 · August 2003

Thanks for the info. I checked and the trans fluid was changed at 64K. The standard Mercon product was used and done by a Ford dealer. Are you saying the trans is old or the fluid is old?? Please explain about semi-synthetic vs synthetic etc.
The fan is cracked and doesn't look to good. Will it fly apart and tear things up??

midnight_stang · August 2003

I would definitely have it flushed. I don't remember if it came from my 93 owners manual or just when I worked at firestone, but automatics transmissions should be flushed and replace the filter every 1-2 years. Hopefully that will help clean out any internal buildup in the valve body, and also clean out any metal particles in the oil. If that doesn't help, or the symptoms come back, the problem is probably gonna require a rebuild.

You truck is nearing 10 years in age, and even with relatively low milage, a bill for 79 bucks now (standard transmission flush and filter) beats a 1-2 grand bill for replacing or remanufacturing the transmission. I can't speak from any experience with synthetics, as I ran castrol GTX, and whatever mecron I could get for cheap. I would just go with periodic flushes, and use any mecron fluid. The dealership would definitely use what is required.

On your fan, it would be a good idea to replace it. I've seen one break apart on a sweat 50's thunderbird, and well, he fixed that, his radiator hoses, and his hood. You have an electric fan right? That should be an easy replacement from any autoparts store, just might have to rewire it from the factory harness/plug.

jeepless · August 2003

I settled for this Fx4 Level II because I could not afford a Rubicon and it was more practical. My payments where less than a lease with Jeep. I owned this truck for four days (308 miles)and was very happy. On the fifth day the OD/off light started to flash and it started bucking like a bronco. It has now been five days (out of the nine that I've owned it)and they still can't figure out what's wrong. They changed the computer and are looking for "stuck" valves in the valve body, in other words, they are just ripping it apart until they find something or get lucky. I thought I got a good deal on a good truck but after reading through this forum I'm afraid I made a grave mistake that I will have to live with for a while. There is a big difference reading through the Jeep Wrangler forum and the Ford Ranger forum. They all seem happy with nothing to complain about. Just shoot me!

midnight_stang · August 2003

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Ranger. Hopefully everything will get worked out by the dealership soon. You might want to check out some websites that display TSB's that could help with your truck.

www.nhtsa.gov and www.alldata.com are two that come to mind.

seyorni · August 2003

I have a '03 long bed Ranger, on which the so called "optional" suspension package is a required extra. I find it raises the truck up about 3" and stiffens an already stiff ride.
Does anyone know what this package consists of? Are there blocks I could remove? Shock change?

deuskid · August 2003

i just bought this truck from the original owner. only 52,4xx miles on it. Pristene condition. has a 4 cyl.

what i need to know is:

what milage does the timing belt get changed?

is it a belt or chain?

is the engine the type that if the timing belt breaks then it harms the engine.

midnight_stang · August 2003

if it's the same 2.3l found in 1993 models (I think it is) then It will have a belt, and it is a non-interference motor, where it shouldn't have valve to piston contact if the belt breaks. However that doesn't mean you don't have combustion problems (i.e. engine grenades) if the belt breaks while doing 70 on the highway. I believe 60,000 miles is the recommended interval. Since you have not reached that, but you do have a much higher than average age for that engine, I would have it replaced anyway for peace of mind.

And I just checked my old Haynes manual. It is a belt.

unclebob2 · August 2003

My 2001 Ford Ranger has a light metal clicking sound when you turn either right or left. The tire store where I had my brakes done told me it
was the bearings (4 wheel drive) I took it to the dealer and he said it was the lower ball joints. Has anybody had the same problem with this truck?

wijoco · August 2003

Specifically, why did your dealer change the muffler and catalytic converter? And what code did the check engine light end up being?
Was the driveshaft replaced due to vibration? What do you mean by chain drive rattle?

junk1nyotrunk · August 2003

Muffler had defective baffles CATs had bad shields  Drive Shaft replaced due to thud in transmission when changing gears on acceleration and decceleration - Ford had the drive shaft updated Check engine light for EGR Bad window seal from factory Chain drive as named by Ford engineers, but basically the timing chain rattles when the truck changes gears during acceleration @ 2000-3000rpms. The chain I think is hitting the guides - it is the most annoying sound.

midnight_stang · August 2003

I felt sorry for you until you said "Don't buy a Ranger and definitely don't buy a Ford. Go Japanese like Toyota, all the trucks are built in America so we're still giving American's money."

I'm sorry you've had a bad experience, but you are kidding yourself if you think your situation is the standard to which all Rangers (and all Fords) apply. I know you want to blow off some steam, but realistically, you are in the minority on this one.

wijoco · August 2003

Catalytic had bad shields-do you mean it fell apart internally or the heat shield above it rattled? I am wondering if maybe you had a complaint about an exhaust rattle and in replacing the muffler and the catalytic part(s) they weren't just guessing at the problem. The driveshaft problem must have been a u-joint that ran dry and failed prematurely, but I wonder why they replaced the whole driveshaft. EGR: did they have to replace the entire EGR valve or something controlling it? As far as the "chain rattle," I believe you're actually hearing pinging or detonation. The timing chain should be hitting the tensioners all the time, as the tensioners are preloaded to put a specific pressure on the chain. Actually, it would be a much bigger problem if the chain was NOT hitting the guides/tensioners. But the dealership should be making an effort to take care of your engine noises either way. You have an automatic trans?

junk1nyotrunk · August 2003

Thanks everyone for your comments. Midnight, you're right, i am a minority on this one since i feel that despite the Ranger's reputation, i got stuck with a bad one. I am still very angry and frustrated about my situation so please excuse my anger.

Wijoco, i think you're also right about the guessing part. The exterior heat shields were coming off, the service kept putting new brackets on them to help stop the rattling. Since the shields are tack welded on they couldn't do anything, and they couldn't tell if there was a slight crack on the inside. I owned a Mercury Tracer for ten years and just sold it, it still runs great but that had really bad CATS and were replaced twice. So i didn't want to deal with another CAT problem on a Ford. Yeah, it's an automatic.

The driveshaft problem is a known problem that's listed on their TSB. They've changed the driveshaft to a new composite material and the new one has stopped the jerking on acceleration and decceleration.

The chain rattle is also listed on the TSB and i believe they are changing the guides. It seems like you guys know a lot more about cars and trucks than i do so my only best explanation is just a regurgitation of what the engineer said.

The EGR sensor was faulty and replaced as explained by the service guy, I'm not sure if the whole valve itself was replaced.

As for my feelings on Ford, their customer service is really bad and they have no real answers, no way on contacting the regional office to help with finding answers to problems. The customer service hotline just records your statements and or problems and just places a call to the dealership.

I have a Toyota Corolla as a commute car and their service is so much better. I had some simple issues and they went out of their way to have the problem fixed without lip service. They also noticed a problem with some of their records pertaining to the vin number and out of the blue called me to have everything rectified. They did all the leg work and i didn't have to go to the dmv.

Unclebob2, I have the same sound when steering extremely left or right and my research has found that it is a common problem. A friend of mine with a similar Ranger brought his in and while i'm not sure if it is the steeringstop, ball joint or the cv boot, the techs greased and sprayed lube over everything - seemed to work for him.

wijoco · August 2003

Sounds to me like you're not getting the best treatment from your dealership. Maybe ask around about better Ford dealers in your area, and then one of them would be more willing to do something about that heat shield rattle. Sometimes a good dealer can make a bad car tolerable! Hope the next 20,000 is better for you...

goldranger · September 2003

deuskid,
I had a 90 with the 2.3 and had belt changed @ 90K. It was still
in good shape but just starting to crack on the teeth side of the
belt. If you aren't hitting red line on each shift, I'd go for 75-85K.While you are that far into it, may want to change thermostat also, it's right there in the open while changing the belt.

good luck
goldranger

meadowlark1 · September 2003

The bed on my husband's new Ranger slants toward the cab. It has a dealer-installed bed liner. When it rains, water pours out from under the liner when he backs out of our downward sloping driveway. Is the bed slanting toward the cab normal????? We're a bit concerned about rust under the liner if water's laying in there. We're going to check with the dealer, but would appreciate any comments you may have. Thanks!

johneel · September 2003

I have a '99 Ford Ranger, 3.0 automatic, V6 that produces a clatter especialy when I get up around 60 mph on the highway. Before or after that speed, the clacking is not as noticieable. I've searched through this site and read about a lot of clattering, rattling, pinging. Has anyone encountered my specific problem? Also, about TSBs -- are they posted in their entirety anywhere for free? Don't you have to pay for them through ALLDATA? Is there a specific link to get the actual full TSBs that I know Ford has issued about this rattling noise? Thanks.

midnight_stang · September 2003

Water will eventually get trapped underneath a plastic, or drop in bed liner. The bed liner will also eventually wear down the paint finish, and when combined with thrapped water will eventually cause rust. That is just the nature of the beast, and that is why Line-x, Rhinoliner and Duraliner are so populaur.

As far as the bed being tilted towards the front, I don't know. I've never noticed this, but doesn't mean it's not there. About the only thing you can check is the mounting points under the bed. There should be 3 pairs of bolts holding it in. Make sure there are no missing, or extra spacers that could be removed/added to alleviate the bed. Otherwise a slight tilt may be perfectly normal, as long as the bed still matches the body lines of the cab, I don't think there is much to worry about (other than water getting trapped.) Perhaps he can back in?

dchinn · September 2003

The reason why the bed is slanted toward the front is the rear is not weighted down. The rear suspension pushing up higher in the event when a load is placed on it, the vehicle's height is even out. Thus the water in the bed by gravity flows forward. If U have a problem, try parking on a slight incline and the water will drain down and out.

midnight_stang · September 2003

Yeah, all Rangers (And Ford trucks in general) should have a "rake" to them, where the rear sits higher than the front. That is definitely due to the rear being empty. I thought the original question about the bed being tilted. Good catch.

mjbwrtr · September 2003

the 2.3 in the newer rangers is NOT the same as the older 2.3's. this new one is a derivitive of the engine in the Focus.

steve621 · September 2003

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4WD. I've read a couple of messages that referenced a clicking sound when turning left or right. My wheels would make that type of noise when I turned at least 50% or more either way. I took it in to the dealership to get them to resolve the problem. It costs me over $1,300 to get it fixed. I was shocked at the cost, but was told that it was dangerous to be riding around with that problem. I felt I had no choice. Well, guess what? Two months later and I'm starting to hear the same clicking noise again. I feel like I got ripped off. Now what do I do? Also, my ABS light is now lit up all the time. I called the dealership to discuss any danger from this occurring and did get them to admit that the "regular" braking system is working fine, so I might wait awhile before I get this problem fixed. Hey, I've got to finish paying off this $1,300.

blyndgesser1 · September 2003

Hi, folks! Several years ago I owned a 2000 SuperCab 3.0 automatic and enjoyed it greatly. Sold it for financial reasons in late '01. Now I've got "the fever" again. I'm looking at an '04 regular cab this time, with the base four-cylinder and a five-speed. Haven't driven it yet, because I didn't want to spend too much time wrangling with a dealer at this stage.

My question: Do any of y'all have the (new) 2.3 with 5-speed combo? What's your impression of the power? Any reliability issues? If I buy this one, it'll be used as a commuter vehicle with occasional trips to the flea market, not regular heavy hauling, and it'll be replacing both a '90 Nissan 240sx and an '83 Mercedes turbodiesel.

Stephen
somewhere in central Georgia

hhaviland · October 2003

I just wanted to share my experience with my Ranger that I bought new in 1995 (2WD, standard cab XL). Well, 98,000 miles later the only problems I have had with this truck are two dead batteries. I bought it on a budget, but this has been the most reliable vehicle I have owned; by far exceeding any expectations I had.

I recently bought a 2003 Passat GLX and the Ranger is still the vehicle I drive to work every day. It has been a real workhorse and a very useful hauling tool (all over California, Kentucky, Arizona and New Mexico).

Even though I can afford better now, I will probably replace my Ranger with another one when my truck finally dies. Sometimes I want a SUV or bigger truck, but my positive experiences with this truck make me loyal to the Ranger.

I know this is a "problem" board, but I wanted others to know that people have had great experiences with their Rangers.

midnight_stang · October 2003

I traded my 93 Ranger at 143,000 miles for a 2003 3.0l. I loved my old Ranger so much I could only replace her with a newer one. I'm glad you decided to post because it seems that people visit online message boards to rant about their problems, so we don't always get a true picture of the majority out there like us without any problems.

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