Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1…1516182021…59

Comments

  • edwardn1edwardn1 Member Posts: 103
    ...THAT MOST RANGERS I SEE ALSO HAVE INOP HIGH MOUNT STOP LIGHTS INCLUDING MY 99. I will replace the bulb(s) but I noticed ford says to use a #906 in the owners manual and all the aftermarket sources recommend a #912 (sylvania and ge) Any idea as to which should be better or last longer?
  • rickc5rickc5 Member Posts: 378
    My 2002 Ranger XLT is now about 2.5 years old, with just a hair over 30K miles on it. So far, only one trip to the dealer for a new sensor of some sort, as the check engine light came on.

    No vibration, no poor tracking, etc. However, I do have a persisting rattle in the drivers door that "can't be reproduced". Yeah, sure.

    Not a bad truck, but it is starting to squeak, groan & rattle more than I like, and I don't drive it hard.

    I had an opportunity to drive the F150, Tundra & Titan (& Chevy & Dodge) back-to-back about 6 months ago a part of a consumer survey. The Titan came up #1 in my book, with the Tundra waaayy back on my list. The Tundra just felt dated & slow. Slower than any of the others. The F150 was my #2 pick, but the Titan was really a hot rod, with a great ride and a comfortable interior. Affordable too. Good luck with whatever new truck you decide on. You need some.
  • youwhoyouwho Member Posts: 1
    I see a great price on a Ranger 4 by with manual tranny. I seem to recollect that there are some problems with both the 4-by and the manual. Does anyone recall specifics of these problems? I think the ball joints are the issue with the four by's, not sure what the tranny issue was.
  • clintonjohnclintonjohn Member Posts: 99
    after reading the post, i checked mine, and sure enough it was out. i bought the ge 912, which the little computer at walmart indicated. i don't know about its longevity, but it fit, and fixed the problem-old bulb was burned out.
  • theflushtheflush Member Posts: 100
    I just replaced the front brake pads on my 99 4WD EXT SC with 85K miles and noticed that there is a bit of a groove forming on the inside edge of the driver side rotor. My question is how difficult is it to replace the rotors yourself? I don't know if the rotor can be turned, but I can get parts for half off at NAPA through a relative, so it might be just as cheap to replace than to pay someone to turn them. I will also pack the bearings while I'm replacing the rotors.

    Also, how common is it to get vastly different wear between the driver and passenger side pads? My passenger side pads were not in that bad of shape, while my driver side pads were almost completely gone. Is it simply because I drive alone most of the time and there is more weight on the driver side?
  • calamityjanecalamityjane Member Posts: 4
    “Tapping” baffles Experts!

    I picked up a ’92 Ranger, 4L , manual, 2WD a couple of years ago and have been going thru it clearing up the problems (mechanic’s daughter ;-) ) but one problem remains that has baffled the best automotive minds I have access to.

    Under very specific driving conditions, I get a metallic tapping sound from the engine compartment. The sound is very similar to what you get if you shake a PCV valve very fast and hard or like the sound of an old mechanical tappet that’s out of adjustment.

    These are the conditions:

    1. You are cruising at 95 to 105 Km/Hr (58 – 65 mph) on the highway and have been at that speed for at least 5 minutes.

    2. The outside air temperature is between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius (65 - 77° F).

    3. The wind is a quartering headwind but never a strong wind.

    The tapping has never occurred under any other conditions!

    The “tapping” has the following characteristics:

    1. Pressing the throttle slightly IMMEDIATELY causes the tapping to become MUCH louder.

    2. Backing off the throttle IMMEDIATELY causes the tapping to become softer.

    3. If speed is reduced (<90 KPH/55 mph), the tapping goes away.

    4. After driving at reduced speed (<90 KPH/55 mph) for a few minutes, I can often accelerate back to 100 KPH/62 mph without the tapping recurring. Sometimes I have to repeat the reduced speed a few times before the tapping stays away.

    5. The speed (rate) of the tapping doesn&#146;t seem to be related to engine speed (seems to be about 1/4 of the RPM) but the loudness is DIRECTLY related to throttle setting

    I have tried the following:

    1. On one trip, I allowed it to knock away until the check engine light came on. When I later downloaded the codes, the only code present was about idle speed!

    2. Thinking the problem had something to do with manifold vacuum levels, I disconnected everything that was unnecessary - no change.

    3. I removed the PCV valve (because it was the only thing I could think of that might sound that way) - no change

    4. I tried a tank of 91 Octane - no change

    5. I inspected the induction system for anything loose that might rattle - nothing found.

    6. I changed the air filter (to change the induction characteristics) - no change.

    The Ranger uses a multi-coil ignition, so there is no distributor or vacuum advance.

    I have consulted the best Ford minds in the area and all my mechanically inclined friends and this has everyone puzzled!

    The Ranger is a nice riding truck with lots of jam and was bought as my long-trip vehicle but I won&#146;t really trust it until I know the source of this tapping, so it either gets fixed or SOLD!

    GURRRR!!!
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I have this exact same problem with a 1979 Ford F-150 with the 5.0L 302. I have had it looked at NUMEROUS times without any luck. So far it's at 130,000 miles and runs excellent (side for the annoying noise). It doesn't get driven very much these days, my everyday vehicle is an Expedition. I have given up on it trying to figure it out. I feel like I could through money at it all day and still not get it fixed. Anyway, I hope that you have better luck than I do in figuring it out.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Sounds like pretty basic "part-throttle pinging" to me. I'm surprised higher octane had no effect, usually it will quiet it. How is your fuel economy? I ask because the cause of pinging on a late model fuel injected vehicle is usually a lean condition (high air/fuel mix) due to a failing metering device like 02 sensor or Mass-air sensor. You can only do so much by pulling codes with your laptop, there are a lot of devices on modern engines that can be out of adjustment enough to cause a driveability problem without setting a code.
    I would try gently cleaning the MAF sensor (between the air cleaner and upper intake) with some electrical parts cleaner. Also consider pulling the O2 sensors and giving them a visual inspection, looking for severe contamination.
    Also try spraying around the upper and lower intake gaskets with some soapy water while idling, if the idle speed fluctuates or you see soap bubbles forming around the gaskets then you have an intake leak. This was a common problem on that 4.0 engine, revised upper and lower gaskets will solve that problem. Beyond this you'll have to take it to a dealer who can monitor fuel trims with the big-bucks diag equipment. Good luck.
  • calamityjanecalamityjane Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tips wijoco - sounds like a logical approach.

    Don't know what the mileage is - haven't checked it - but I am now hearing from others who found the MAS to be the source of identical problems.

    I have some electronic parts cleaner on hand and will clean the MAS first because it's easy to get at ;-)

    I've heard lots of pining before but never as strange as this! Of course, when you get computers involved, strange thaings happen.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    -Clean the MAF. This is a good 'maintenance item, in any case. (There are 'security' screws on this. You may need a special thorx wrench for this. I drilled off the inside 'nipple' with a very small dremel drill and used a 'regular' thorx drive.)

    -Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts. Loose bolts is probably your problem.

    As wijoco said, both of these are usual, known problem areas to cause pinging on the 4L. My intake bolts were loose on my 94 model 4L. As I understand, this allows additional air into the fuel mixture, leaning it out, and causing the pinging. You will need a 1/4 inch socket with a flex extension. Some of the bolts will still be tough to get to.
  • andyman73andyman73 Member Posts: 322
    I wanted to add a few things here. My father-in-law has 00 4X4 w/4.0 and 5a tranny. 21K miles, no problems, upper break light still working on factory bulb. He has owned 3 other Rangers and 1 F150 with I6. His 1st truck was a Datsun 4X4, best he ever had, couldn't get out of it's own way, but couldn't get it stuck, either. His only problem,ever, was on F150, exhuast rusted out after 7 years. Traded it on the 00, in 99, still had factory battery, was 92, by the way. Only complaint on 00 Ranger, bed is too small, after coming from F150 what did he expect? I have driven and ridden about 2500miles in said Ranger, and I love it. None of the aforementioned problems. No driveline shaking or thumping, tires spin freely with lead foot. Truck works well in Pa mountains during hunting trips.

    Speaking of Lemons, growing up, we had a 78 "Dodge"(no nasty grams please, just making an observation) van, with 5.2l V8 and 4 on the floor manual. No power steering or anything else except the go pedal. Lasted 19.5 years, only replaced clutch and installed bigger carb. Went nearly 300K miles, and survived 3 teenage boys learning to drive. Dad did all maintenance and servicing himself. Just an observation, Domestics can be good vehicles.
  • seversuaveseversuave Member Posts: 10
    Anyone out there know how to diagnose and fix Ranger cruise control? I have looked at the Haynes manual, and it wasn't very helpful. I have a 1994 Ranger supercab STX 4X4 and the cruise starting working intermittantly a few weeks ago, and now won't work at all. Otherwise it has been a great truck for 10 years. Not a single other problem. Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    -Just a chance here - but is it possible your brake light switch has failed in the 'on' position? This would disable the cruise. The usual failure is in the 'off' position, in other world it doesn't turn the brake lights on. If this happens, the cruise, when engaged, will not disengage. I've had 3 switches fail on my 94 in the 7 years I've owned it. I realize the switch if failed when my cruise will non disengage. Of course, this would also mean your brake lights are on all the time, because the switch is 'always hot'.

    -Go to ebay, under autos, literature, manuals. There is a guy always selling the factory manuals for Ford Truck, etc on CD. It is for something like $8.95 plus $2 shipping. I've bought one - it looks like it is a complete factory manual. Buying the complete manual is easier than me trying to copy it into this discussion area.....
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've looked at my manual on CD. The speed control's tests/diagnostics are complicated, as I expected.

    Here are the main components of speed control:
    -Servo. This is the vacumn unit that pulls the throttle. It has electrical connectors to it also. Check electric and vacumn connectors.
    -Speed sensor. I think this is on the end of the speedometer cable where it goes into the transmission. It has an electrical connector you should check.
    -Switches, etc. Those on the steering wheel and the brake light switch on the brake. If a manual transmission, there is a switch on the clutch also. Check the brake/clutch switches. Those in the steering wheel would be tougher.
    -Speed Control Amplifer. This is a 'box', the brain of the speed control. (I think the main 'computer' controls some of the cruise control also.) This amplifer, I think (not sure about this) is found behind the folding jump seat in the rear of your extended cab. I think it is on the passenger side - in with the jack.

    You could check the electrical connectors on all the above components that your can easily reach, such as the servo, speedometer cable, amplifier, and brake/clutch switches. Maybe something is knocked loose or dirty/wet.

    Othere than this, buy the CD and buy a good multimeter and start reading the CD and the tests. One thing, for some reason, the speed control is in the 'Fuel' section of the manual, not the electronics????????
  • kathgipkathgip Member Posts: 39
    We have a 1995 Ranger XLT longbed, 5 speed, with about 90,000 miles on it. This has been the best little truck. We have replaced the original tires, but other than that, everything is still great. Still have the original brakes... NO KIDDING! And still have the original battery... SERIOUSLY! I keep waiting for the shoe to drop and something to break or a major repair, but this one is a gem.

    However, the back top brake light is not functioning.....not because the bulb is burned out, it still works. But because the plastic clip broke and it is just hanging there, but it works.

    We also hear the pinging noise, but figure it is nothing major, just the nature of the beast.

    FYI- our baby is the Cayman Green model. Where do they come up with the names of colors?

    Greetings all.
  • sandtrapsandtrap Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a 2003 rwd pickup. Have a '94 S-10 Chevy. Hear the Ranger 4x4 extended cab still has drive shaft,trainy problems. Need helpful info. Have looked at S-10 and Dakota. Hear that Dakotas have ball joint problems. Need info.
  • footpoundsfootpounds Member Posts: 22
    Get a Toyota Tacoma. You'll be much happier since you'll be driving it instead of waiting to have your Ford or Dodge repaired.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not aware of significant transmission problems.

    There does seem to be some noise problems with the split driveshaft. I think for the trucks with the problem, if you push enough, Ford will replace the driveshaft with an aluimum (SP) one that is a 'cure'.

    Buy the Ranger. Enjoy several thousand dollars left in your pocket over the Toyota. And, you get a nicer looking truck.
  • natewoodnatewood Member Posts: 1
    I had the same CONSTANT vibration in my 2000 ranger also. One day I went over a bump and the steering nearly shook out of my hands. I took the tire off, the brake rotor off. I took a look at the hub and pushed on it from the top and the bottom. It rocked back and forth. I popped the cap off the hub, pulled the cotter pin out, took the safety cap off the nut. I then could tighten the nut by hand. I was able to turn it at least two full turns by hand. I got a 30mm wrench out and tightened it as much as I could, probably another half of a turn. I backed it off and then tightened by hand. The hub didn't move anymore and it still spun freely. I re packed the bearing with grease and put it all back together and I have NO MORE VIBRATION. It was the front passenger side wheel. This may be something you want to look at.

    At least lift the wheel off the ground and press on the top and the bottom to see if the tire moves in a way that it shouldn't. Try it with both front tires. I would be surprised to find out if it was the passenger front as in the same with mine. I would then wonder who was working on the line at the plant tightening that bolt.

    I've also have a problem of not being able to idle when it is first started each day, especially if the A/C is on.

    When that happens, I pop the hood, take a hammer or similar tool and tap lightly on the Idle Air Control Valve. It will either die or idle right up. If it dies, the next start idles right up. This lasts for 2 to 3 days, then I have to get the hammer back out. But, at least it will no longer die sitting at a stop light and refuse to start again.

    I hope that helps.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Take the IAC off and clean it. Use carb cleaner. Be careful and do not get cleaner into the 'electrical' part, keep the electrical part pointed up so it does not run down into it.

    Just clean up the carbon in the valve portion, and clean the passage in the intake. Be careful removing and not damage the gasket.

    This should help idle problems. A new on is about $60 at part stores.
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    I would have posted this on the discussion pertaining to this question, but it's a "read only" one.
    Can anyone out there give me some "heads up" about the Ford/Mazda 2.3l engine with auto. tranny? Specifically, how reliable is it's engine and tranny compared to the Toyota Tacoma 2.4l w/auto. tranny?
    From what I read on the Edmund's used car post, there seems to be problems with the Ford/Mazda tranny. Is this true? I'm referring to the "new" 2.3l Mazda built engine. Who makes the auto. tranny that goes into this truck? Thanks to you all for your replies! Take care.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I have had several cases of idling problems (i.e. the 4.0 L pushrod motor would only idle at stoplights ONLY IF I gave it gas). Ford replaced the solenoid (the silver cannister [about the size of a 35mm film container] on top of the driver's side valve cover). No more trouble since. My Ranger now has 45000 miles on it, and other than constant vibration, and the unsolvable driveshaft lash problems (it requres nearly monthly re-greasing of the slip joint spline), the truck has run for about 11000 miles with no trouble (a record for this truck). Thanks to NATEWOOD for the tip on loose passenger side wheel (pathetic quality lapses..Ford should have learned by now !!). I will indeed check mine. Peace, all.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    CORRECTION. My apology i.e. the solenoid is not on the valve cover proper, but on the top left of the engine attached in plain view on the intake plumbing. My mistake.
  • manningrc1manningrc1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 97 2.3L. It turned out to be the mass air flow sensor
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Clean both of them - IAC valve and MAF.
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    More of a question than a problem, but...

    How well will 4.0 auto Ranger hold up to regular towing of +/- 2000# to ~3500#. Most days closer to 2000 than 3500. (for small lawn-care business)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Good. You are far less likely to have a transmission problem with the 4.0 Ranger than the S10.

    Dusty
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    What transmission? I wouldn't tow that type of weight with the 5-speed automatic (5R55E)
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    How will the longevity of Ranger compare to F150 or C1500? Will Ranger require modifications (other than trailer hitch) or is stock OK?

    I have been using a '91 K1500 5sp (rated to tow up to ~3800# I think)with no serious problems - other than having to use low 4wd to back up steep driveways with a trailer.
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    ***I wouldn't tow that type of weight with the 5-speed automatic (5R55E)

    Please explain. Most sites rate auto. trans. for higher tow weights.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Everything I've read says you better not try to tow with the 5speed manual.

    And yes, look at the specs. The automatic has a much higher towing ratings.

    I got my 94 Ranger from someone going from a 2,000 lb trailer to a larger one. He sold the Ranger to buy a F150 for the bigger trailer.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    There is nothing wrong with towing 3,500lbs + with A 4.0 Ranger and the 5R55E. Just keep up to date on the maintenance and you should be fine. Though with 3,500 behind you, you will feel the extra weight.
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    Most times I am towing slightly less than 2000#. Once or twice a week I may have to tow a small tractor (tractor and trailer are probably no more than 3200#). In winter, I hardly ever tow anything unless I need the trailer to haul brush (1500-1800# in a good-size load. Trailer about 1000-1200#) All of my towing is short distances. A big day MIGHT rack up 40 miles. Ranger, besides being cheaper, seems like it would be more maneuverable and would clog up less space in driveway and garage. Besides, Ranger (4.0 auto.) is rated for about 1500# more max tow weight than my present vehicle (4.3 K1500 5sp).

    Do you think it would stand up to this kind of workload, or do I need to go with F150 or C1500?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Less than 40 miles for 3200 pounds - I think it(4L Automatic) would handle it without a problem.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    But I own an Explorer with this drivetrain, and I used to pull 5,000+ pounds 2 or three times a year. It's a heavy load for the Explorer, but it pulls it just fine. However, now I use my Expedition to do that work. My Point being that 2,000 pounds is not by any means unmanageable for the Ranger, properly equipt it can pull over double that.

    Just make sure you stay on top of Transmission fluid changes, and you should get good reliable service from the Ranger.
  • tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    ***properly equipt it can pull over double that.

    I am mechanically illiterate. Can you be a little more explicit about what "properly equipt" means?
    Will stock truck & good trailer hitch do the job, or would I have to consider transmission cooler & other measures?

    Were you pulling that 5000+ on relatively flat roads, or over hills & through hollers?

    Thanks to all for the input.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I mean that it should have the trailer towing package. Class III hitch and the wiring that you require (Probably a 4 prong plug for your application). I am pretty sure, though not 100% (more like 95%) that the Ranger already comes with a Transmission cooler.

    * If you have electric brakes on the trailer, you will probably have to get the 7-prong connecter installed.

    Hope this helps, maybe someone else will chime in and be of more help.
  • buckshotbuckshot Member Posts: 2
    what could i do to boost the fuel economy or power output of my 1990 2.9L Standard Ranger?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, which do you want, economy or power?

    Actually, I doubt you will get much of either one.

    It's a truck, basically a brick on wheels, so you will not get economy.

    It's a 2.9L V6 and is never going to be fast.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I'm talking reliability, not capacity.

    You're also going to miss the full-size bed of the Chevy. I use to do lawn care and tooled around in a 20-year old F-100. Had a few of them, acutally. I could haul 2 yards of mulch in the bed and tow all my equipent on the trailer. You may miss the space with the Ranger.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    When it comes to longevity I do not believe either the F150 and especially the C1500 has an advantage. There are plenty of 10-year-old Rangers running around with lots of miles on them. GM full-size trucks suffer from rusting in later years, giving them a disadvantage compared to Ford and Dodge.

    Now, if you are interested in durability, I think full-size Dodge, Ford, and GM models will give you overall better service than the Ranger.

    As far as towing goes, you've not mentioned the Dakota. Maybe you have a anti-Dodge bias, but with an available V8 engine the Dakota is superior to both the S-10 and Ranger. In fact, the new Dakota can be rated to just over 7000 lbs., properly equiped, making it an excellent competitor for the full-size trucks.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dgiovannidgiovanni Member Posts: 13
    I am about to buy an automatic 1994 Ranger XLT 4.0L. It has 160 Kms (100,000 miles). I would appreciate any words of advice as to what to look for, or have my mechanic look for. I have never owned a truck so...

    Also I saw references to towing. The ball is attached to the bumper. Is this good or bad? Thanks in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    That's what I've got. Owned 7 years, got 80,000 miles.

    Things that have gone wrong and go wrong on a lot of them:

    -Radius arm bushings. The truck will creak and groan over bumps or uneven pavement. These are cheap to repair, but mechanic has to know how to get them out. It's easy if you know how.
    -Definitely tighten the 'lower intake manifold bolts'. These will loosen, allow air into the intake, mess up the fuel mixture which causes 'pinging'. Some of these bolts are tough to get to, but they can all be tightened without removing anything and this definitely should be done.
    -Remove and clean the MAS (mass air sensor). This and the above should stop pinging, even on 87octane.
    -Remove and clean the IAC (idle air control). Don't get carb cleaner into electrical portion. A dirty one can cause low or high idle or surging at idle.
    -It has 2 wheel (rear) ABS. Keep the brake fluid resevour (sp) full. When the level goes down, as the brakes wear, the ABS light will come on. Topping off the brake fluid cures this.

    Other major things I've done, which I consider general maintenance:
    -Plugs and wires at about 55,000 miles. I could hear a misfire on the radio.
    -Radiator leaked about 75,000 miles. Cost $150 for an online replacement.
    -Replaced shocks at about 70,000 miles, with cheap Monroe Gasmatic. I think the orginial shocks I removed were actually about as good as these replacements.
    -Transmission fluid and filter. If you don't have a detailed maintenance history, definitely do this. I would not 'flush' the tranny, this might break things loose and cause trouble. Just drop the pan and replace filter and the fluid lost.
    -The brake light switch has failed 3 times in 7 years?????????? When it goes out, your cruse control will not 'release' when you push on the brake. Just turn it off if this happens. And replace the brake lite switch.
    -I replaced front disk rotors(with cheap China made ones), pads, and seals at about 60,000. They were warped. The rear shoes still original ones, will go another 10,000 at least.
    -Replaced 2 of the 4 speakers. The $90 Jenson 9x6's replacements do not sound as good as the remaining 2 original ones, and were obviously lighter weight magnets. (I have the 'Premium' radio.)

    My truck is the STX, top-of-the-line model. I love it. It's a great truck. I can afford a new one, but there really isn't enough difference in a 2004 model, with my 1994 having a couple of features not found on the new ones, for me to have a real reason to buy a new one.
  • harim18harim18 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1994 Ranger 3.0L with 91K. I am retired and do mostly town driving. Have been using Mobil One 0W-30, which no longer available. Is 0W-20 to "light" for this old model??
    If I mix one quart of 0W-20 and one quart of 0W-40, will get two quarts of 0W-30??
    Will appreciate any and all advice.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Either one will probably work. What temperatures are you expecting to see? If it gets over 80degrees, I would not like to have 20w. If it gets below 0degrees I would not like to have 40w.

    What's wrong with the recommended 10w30, in a non-synthetic? If you want to be very conservative, change it, with filter, every 3,000 miles or 6 months. This should be good for 200,000 miles on that motor. If something happens, the oil will not be the problem.
  • macro12macro12 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I recently bought an '02 Ranger XLT crew cab. It is a Ford Certified vehicle so I thought I should be safe...now I am not so sure. It "supposingly" had an alignment done when the dealer certified it. I noticed the steering wheel was pointed to the 2 o'clock postion...took it back and that was easily fixed. Then I had 3 different people on 3 different roads at 3 different times tell me I am going sideways down the road. So back to the dealer...after a couple hours they come out and tell me there is a problem with the rear axle. the differece on one side of axle to the wheelwell is 1 inch different then the other side of the truck. Fun, not so much.

    I thought could have been in an accident, but a carfax report and the report the dealer did come up clean. So I have to take it back tomorrow to have them take it to the body shop to see if the frame is bent...still thinking accident...but the other thought from reading the manual is that someone threw the truck into 4x4 low while the truck was moving...this is my theory if it was not in an accident...just curious if anyone else has ran into this problem or if anyone has some ideas on it?

    Thanks,
  • goodtroubleiiigoodtroubleiii Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 2.9L V6 Just rolled 140k

    I have been getting between 160-170mpg. Is this normal for these?? If I remember correctly I was getting a lot better milage before I did the tune up (spark plugs, wires, cap and roter, air filter, fuel filter) The spark plugs where gapped correctly. I have a tonneau cover on the bed (soft, not hard), I would think that would help the milage. Does anyone know about what milage the oxygen sensor goes out, or know of a way to test it, that is my only other guess as to why the milage is so bad, any ideas??

    Also it seems to be shifting quite hard between 1st and 2nd (auto), is there anything I can do?? I have changed the filter, and I put Lucas stabilizer in it, but it made no difference.

    Any help would be greatly apreciated.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Whoever did the alignment on your truck is at fault for not aligning all four wheels. What this involves is loosening the bolts that attach the rear axle to the leaf springs and then pivoting it so that both rear wheels are the same distance from front wheels. Then they must proceed on to the front wheels after that. You probably don't have a bent frame or a bad axle, just a bad diagnosis. Many things can put the truck out of alignment, such as a bad pot hole, or hitting a curb ect, so it is quite common.
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    I have a 2004 Ranger FX4 Off-Road and getting a vibration when I go over 60 mph. I brought it back to dealer and they balanced all four wheels, but I still have the problem. I'm wondering if there is such a thing as an out of balance drive shaft, rear brake drum or something else that could cause this vibration as I have an appointment to bring it in tomorrow(12/7) and have it check again, and I would like to have some suggestions for them to look into. Thanks in advance for your responses.
    PPB
  • macro12macro12 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I took it in for service today and they said they had to replace the ball joints on the truck...took the better part of the day, then they had to align it again....I guess while it was on the rack the alignment machine went out and they have to get that fixed before they could finish my truck...and would need to keep it overnight but they are all out of rental cars. the funny thing is this particular car dealer also owns several other dealerships on the same street so I suggested they take my truck to one of them finish the aligment and get it back to me today...well...supposingly that alignment rack broke while my truck was on the rack and they did finally come up with a rental...so what are the odds that a misaligned truck to begin with has two different racks break at different dealers in the same day.

    Even after i get the truck back I will need to have someone follow me to see if it is truely fixed or not at all...thanks for the advice.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles