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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • goodtroubleiiigoodtroubleiii Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 2.9L V6 Just rolled 140k

    I have been getting between 160-170mpg. Is this normal for these?? If I remember correctly I was getting a lot better mileage before I did the tune up (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter, fuel filter) The spark plugs where gaped correctly. I have a tonneau cover on the bed (soft, not hard), I would think that would help the mileage. Does anyone know about what mileage the oxygen sensor goes out, or know of a way to test it, that is my only other guess as to why the mileage is so bad, any ideas??

    Also it seems to be shifting quite hard between Reverse, 1st and 2nd (auto), is there anything I can do?? I have changed the filter, and I put Lucas stabilizer in it, but it made no difference.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nfamous77nfamous77 Member Posts: 1
    Just because it didn't show up in any of the reports, doesn't mean that it wasn't in an accident. They only obligated to report the accidents that have significant amount of damage not the minor things that are like $1k or less is what my understandings is.
  • macro12macro12 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info, although if the frame was bent I would consider that significant amount of damage...the dealer replaced the driver side ball joints and needed a shim kit to get it to align properly. So that tells me they never aligned it right the first time or never bothered doing a 4 wheel alignment when the invoice said they did...guess I'll have to see how it holds up.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    It's entirely possible Ford bolted the axle on off-center when it was manufactured! Don't think they can't do it. It's pretty unusual but if the frame checks out OK and they can set the axle straight, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    You mean 16-17 MPG right? (Personally I would be pretty happy with 160 MPG)
    Gas mileage on something that old is tough. It could be anything and everything. Does it use a Mass Air Sensor? Check all the electrical connections for clean+tight.
    Does it ping? Run rich? Check engine light? Any other symptoms?

    As far as the transmission, you may be looking at a rebuild at some point with that age+ mileage.
  • goodtroubleiiigoodtroubleiii Member Posts: 3
    I meant 160-170 per tank, I was tired.

    The check engine light used to come on for like 5 minutes, and then just go off, or if you shut it off and started it right back up, it would go off. But it doesn't do that anymore. The sensors are all good as far as I can see. It doesn't seem to be running rich, I have noticed that it has been like shuttering at stoplights. The engine seems to surge, like it will go up about 3oo rpms or so, then drop back down, and over again. My main question is, if it's the O2 sensor, I think the Throttle Position Sensor may be the cause of the surgeing. But with the check engine light not being on, there isn't any trouble codes to look for.

    I figured I would be needing a new transmission...
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    Help out there!
    I brought it back and the dealer rebalanced all four wheels and the vibration is still occurring at 60+ mph.
    Does anyone out there have any suggestions???
  • smoothop1smoothop1 Member Posts: 4
    Like you, I also have the same problem with my FX4, the have done countless front end alignments, replaced the driveshaft, and have put on a 3rd complete set of tires on the truck and still have not resolved the problem ! It goes back to the dealer on 12/13. It has been doing this for nearly a year, and 18000 miles. It currently has 22,000 mi on it. Hope this helps, let me know how you make out
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    I too am going in on 12/13 for the third time in less than two months and with only 800 miles on the odometer.

    I'm curious as to where you bought it, when was it built, and what year is your FX4?

    I bought mine in CT, it was built 13Aug2003, and it's a 2004.

    I'll keep you advised as to the progress as we go.
  • soco4soco4 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0/AT Supercab with 22,000 miles. Does anyone know if the 2001 front suspension changes can be fairly readily and inexpensively fitted? I remember reading that Ford softened the front springs by 27% and made some other changes. Experience with a rented 2001 Ranger Supercab indicated a noticeable improvement in ride quality; the front suspension was more compliant than my 2000's.

     

    The Michelin LTX tires and Monroe Reflex shocks I installed have given a more stable and controlled ride, but further improvement would be welcome. Information/details about Ford's suspension changes will be much-appreciated.
  • macro12macro12 Member Posts: 4
    Well...turns on the truck still goes down the road sideways...its had 3 aligements in less then 3 weeks so I dont think that is an issue...the dealer currently has my truck and they are looking into whether or not the frame is bent or not...talking to them this afternoon they still where not sure what the problem is but they want to keep it overnight...atleast this time several people from the dealership finally road behind the truck to see how out of wack it is. If its a wrecked vehicle looks like they may be buying it back...
  • dimension2dimension2 Member Posts: 7
    The mystery:

     

    I have a 99 Ranger XLT ex cab 4x4 with the 4.0 and 5 speed. It has 75,000 miles.

     

    About 4 months ago I noticed it ran very rough (like misfiring on one or more cyclinders) for about 30 seconds after starting if it's been sitting more than an hour. This doesn't happen every start, but about half the time.

     

    A tune up didn't help. The mechanic (not Ford) then diagnosed a head or head gasket leak - based on fluid in # 4 cylinder. Took it to another mechanic for a second opinion. He kept it 3 days and disagreed with 1st mechanic's diagnosis. (He even kept 25 lbs pressure on the cooling system overnight and stuck rolled up paper towels in the # 4 spark plug hole - no fluid.) He agreed it ran rough, but had no idea why.

     

    I finally took it to the only Ford dealer within 60 miles. (I've had VERY bad experiences with them before, and so try to avoid them.) They put it on the computer. Came up blank. They finally diagnosed it as a bad spark plug "sucking oil into the cylinder," and replaced #4 plug. It ran fine for a week; then started all over again - and seems to be getting worse.

     

    I've pulled the #4 plug and it looks clean. The truck does not smoke, and it has never overheated or tripped any warning lights.

     

    Sorry this post is so long. Does anyone have any notions?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Dimension2
  • smoothop1smoothop1 Member Posts: 4
    My FX4 is a 2004 as well. I bought it in N.J. I'll have to get back to as far as when it was built. Final assembly point was Twin Cities. It has the new 4.0 engine. Pleas keep me informed, and I'll post back soon with more info.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I am trying to solve a similar problem with a different vehicle. My son's car (1996 Ford T-Bird 4.6L V8) is at home for the time being while he is at school, so I drive it from time to time. Now that the weather has cooled, the condition has become much more pronounced.

    I talked to a ASE mechanic that has worked on many different vehicles. He said that after 30 seconds, the computer takes over the functions of the car. Which is why after this 30 second period, the idle goes down. While the car is in this 30 second open loop, it is burning with a rich condition to keep the vehicle going until the 02 sensors, MAF sensor etc, can get heated up and take accurate readings. Anyway, the problem remains. Once the car gets about 2 minutes into operation, it runs just fine. I have done a lot of searching on the internet for similar problems, with the hope of finding a solution. Two things I will be looking into, is a Mass Air Flow sensor cleaning (with electric parts cleaner) and I will also check out the Idle Air Control Valve.

    My son had the MAF sensor replaced about 20,000 miles ago to eliminate a check engine light and rough idle. Since then, the car runs much better, but lately has been getting back to its old ways. (Check engine light included)

     

    Do you notice that if you take off and drive right away after start, that you are confronted with a huge lack of power for about 10-20 seconds?
  • dimension2dimension2 Member Posts: 7
    I wouldn't say a huge lack of power, but the truck stumbles a bit and shakes like crazy, as though it's running on only 5 of the six cylinders. (If I was trying to beat another Ranger of equal specs off the line, I certainly would lose.) But as the engine becomes smoother, the power does return.

     

    My concern is if this is a coolant leak into the engine, I want to attack it before I have to rebuild the entire engine.

     

    But so far there is no condensation on the oil filler cap and pulling the #4 plug showed no fouling. I guess I should try pulling the other plugs, but what a pain some of them will be!!

     

    The problem used to rear its ugly head whenever the truck had been parked overnight. Then it was half a day. Now it's an hour.

     

    Dimension2
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    Smoothop1:

    I brought it into the dealer on 12/14, and the service manager called later to tell me he had good news/bad news.

     

    It seems there was a 'Special Service Bulletin'(the step before a TSB) about premature tire wear and rim runout that caused vibration.

     

    The good news: They are going to put on a new set of tires(upgrading from P245/75R16 to P255/70R16) and a new set of rims(they had a little runout).

     

    The bad news: They couldn't do it today because they have to wait for the parts to come in from the distribution center.

     

    Now I'm waiting for the call to come in and I'll wait while they swap the tires/rims and re-program the computer because of the change in tire size. After that, the service manager and I will go out and give it a test run to see if the vibration is GONE!

     

    I'll keep you posted.

     

    PPB

    20041215.3.104800
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Unless you are loosing coolant, or you see oil and coolant in your coolant reserve tank, then you have nothing to worry about. I know the problem I am dealing with in the T-Bird is not a coolant leakage problem. I remember reading in my Haynes manual about what the causes of a rough idle might be, and there in black and white it does say that one of them is a bad or leaking head gasket. However, there is an extremely long list accompanying that one cause. I think my first plan of action will be the MAF sensor cleaning, because unless the Idle Air Control valve is sticking open, it shouldn't hamper the performance once I am driving. If that doesn't work, I am going to look for a vacuum leak.

    I have also done an intake manifold cleaning with a product called Seafoam. Did wonders for the power and gas mileage.
  • smoothop1smoothop1 Member Posts: 4
    ppborceb- My truck was built on Oct 29,2003. My dealer has given me 3 differant sets of new tires, and I asked them if it could be the rims and he told me they did check them. He said they were o.k. Maybe they didn't really check them, who knows. Mine is still at the dealer, I'll let you know as well. Thanks
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    Go to a drive shaft repaire shop and have your drive shaft spines removed and replaced this will fix the problem.Ford made a junk drive shaft for these super cab ranger trucks.I have a 97 super cab ranger with the same problem.I am having my fix today at a joint,clutch and drive line repair shop.Take it out yourself if you can it will save you some money.
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    Your pinging noise is in your time chain tensioner or your cam shaft sounds like bad gas but it not.They had a recall on that motor for this problem and they didn't do a good job on leting everybody know.
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    Your pinging noise is in your timing chain tensioner or your cam shaft sounds like bad gas but it not.They had a recall on that motor for this problem and they didn't do a good job on leting everybody know.
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    Try to get them to discount the truck because of this problem.Then take the drive shaft out and put grease up inside the sleeve of the slip joint of the rear drive shaft.This is a common problem on ford ranger drive shaft they don't grease the slip joint from the factory and they don't slide in and out properly after a few miles when you take off and stop which causes a thunk.Also make sure that the front and the rear drive shaft joints line up properly.Use a good moly gease.
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    Yes take the drive shaft out again and put moly gease up inside the sleeve of the slip joint on the rear drive shaft and slide it back together. You will hear the gease penetrating back along the spines as you slide it back together.If they just put it on the outside spines that will not work because most of the gease come off when they side it back in.Also make sure that their is very little play in the slip joint when you twist it back and forth and that your joints front and rear line up.
  • mwalker06mwalker06 Member Posts: 6
    That is really to much for that truck they are trying to get you because of the miles.Shop around even if you have to go out of town or wait till after the first of the year truck are high now because of winter.They had trouble in 99 with timing chain tensioner and cam shaft on the 99 explorer if that is the same motor.That is a pretty good size tire on your truck now.you can probably go to a 30\10.50\16 which is probably close to what you have on the truck now.31\10.50\16 might rub.
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    smoothop1: I got a call this morning and rushed over because the tires/rims were in and there were some cancellations.

    After tires/rims were swaped out and the computer was re-programed, we took it out for a run and the vibration was GONE!!!

    You mentioned the dealer gave you 3 sets of tires, but did he change the size of the tires to P255/70R16?

    Also, it only takes a little out of specification for runout to cause a problem with the rims... have them checked again and get the allowable specification numbers and have them show you the readings for your rims.

    The Special Service Message(SSM), not special service bulletin that I mentioned previously is #17490. Ask the dealer if he followed the recommendation in that SSM.

    There is also the possibility of a driveshaft harmonic imbalance, but I have only heard of that problem, not familiar with it.

    This is all the information that I can provide and wish you luck in finding a solution for your vibration.

    Please keep me posted and again good luck.
  • smoothop1smoothop1 Member Posts: 4
    ppborceb- Have gotten the truck back from dealer. Of course, it still has the vibration. They have decided to change the tires, but only the brand not the size. The 3 previous sets have been the same brand and size. Since you let me know this info., Iam going to talk to them on Monday, (again). Thank you sooooo much! I'll keep in touch.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    It sounds like either IAC valve as mentioned or intake gasket failure. Upper and lower intake gaskets on that motor were crap and cause the exact symptoms you're describing.
  • johneeljohneel Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1999 Ranger, automatic transmission, 80,000 miles. My transmission just died, which sort of stunned me since it has been running fine with no clunking or slipping or anything. My guy quoted me $2100 to rebuild it. Any thoughts on that? The body is in good shape and, like I said, it runs fine. I'd like to drive it for another 80K with the new transmission. Any thoughts would be welcome and thank you. -- John
  • ritchard1ritchard1 Member Posts: 1
    I'd try to get one at the junkyard.It would be a lot cheaper...Try car-part.com to search junkyards in your area. Most will come with some kind of warranty....
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Which transmission? If it's the 5R55E I would rebuild it. If you get a used one you'll be buying a short period of time.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure that your technician performed the cooling system pressure test correctly, based on your description. The thing to look for is any appreciable loss in pressure over time, regardless of the paper towel test for fluid. In this case it sounds like he only tested cylinder number four. There could be another cylinder causing the problem.

     

    In the case of excessive oil flooding a cylinder overnight after shutdown, be aware that looking for the pressence of heavy exhaust as a sign of oil burning may not be very accurate. Catalytic converters will reduce a good portion of blue smoke.

     

    My first suspect would be a weak ignition coil or some other problem in the ignition circuit. I think your's has coil-on-plug. If so you don't have a plug wire to worry about.

     

    You could have a intake manifold leak, although I don't believe that's a common problem on the 4.0 engine. I'd have a good technician perform a cylinder leak-down test.

     

    Regards,

    Dusty
  • johneeljohneel Member Posts: 11
    It's the 4R44/55E. Thanks, but at this point my question is moot. I'm getting the work done because 1) I trust the guy doing it and his diagnosis and 2) $2100 bucks is better than $15K for a new or used car. I'm just kinda shocked by a tranny dying at 80K. I do "nomal" driving, occassional homeowner small loads. I've lost them in lousy cars (Renault Alliance at 160,000) but not in a Ford Truck with only 80K.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The Ranger has been a good vehicle overall for a number of years now. The mechanicals have been around for quite a while in an evolutionary form. The automatic transmission series used in these vehicles has been pretty reliable. I've known of other Ranger owners that have had premature transmission problems or complete rebuilds. But a lot depends on how they've been maintained, too. I have also known a number that have gone in excess of 125K without a transmission problem at all.

     

    If you have changed the transmission filter and fluid at the recommended intervals, have not taxed the vehicle beyond it's rated limits, never over heated the engine or are driving in high temperature weather at highway speeds, then there was probably something not assembled, adjusted, or something out-of-spec during initial assembly.

     

    I agree with your decision to have the transmission repaired. One caution: all transmission servicers are NOT alike. A quality repair or rebuild can make all the difference in long-term reliability. If there are factory authorized modifications, upgrades, or retrofits, make sure they get installed.

     

    Best regards,

    Dusty
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Okay, here is what has happened to fix my son's car that I mentioned earlier with the exact same problem. It was the IAC valve and the MAF sensor which needed to be cleaned with a shot or two with electric parts cleaner. Problem solved. This is the first winter that the car has actually had trouble idling when it is cold out. It only used to sputter (30 secs. after starting) and throw a fit, which it still did plenty of so far this winter, but also started stalling this winter as well.

     

    On the intake manifold suggestion. Could be possible, though most people have more symptoms of this failure with the 4.0L. Loss of coolant, and high revving idle or just stalling right from the get go.

     

    On head gasket failure. I haven't ever heard or seen of one with these motors. I know they do happen but I tend to believe it's rare with this particular motor. If this were true you would quite possibly have a whole slew of other issues. Possible overheating, loss of coolant, rough idle all of the time, very sweet smelling exhaust (not to be confused with the normal smells encountered at start up), a check engine light, etc etc.

     

    best luck,

    JRC
  • johneeljohneel Member Posts: 11
    Well I have to say I baby my cars, taking really good care of them. The '99 Ford just bit it. I'll ride it until it falls apart for good and then it's "Hello Tacoma." A new transmission at 80K is just unacceptable.
  • liman1liman1 Member Posts: 7
    I don't blame you for being p.o.'d about your tranny. But I looked at Tacomas before I bought my Ranger. Not for me. Too small, ugly, too low to the ground, cramped interior with space wasting floor mounted transmission selector, too much money. Maybe you'll feel differently after some time passes.
  • inquisitorinquisitor Member Posts: 1
    I was looking into a 2001 ranger standard cab xl with 77000 miles 5spd manual 4x2 2.5L - its in good condition and comes with one of those diamond plate tool boxes in the truck bed. The seller is asking 4200 - basically I was wondering what a good price is or is it worth buying the truck at all?
  • valance2valance2 Member Posts: 14
    Sometimes when I start the truck it won't catch and I have to add gas to it for about 30 sec before it will continue idling. its a 2001 4.0l 5sp automatic. I notice the problem mostly when its cold and wet out, but I haven't been able to isolate the exact conditions that create the problem. Mechanic told me to try premium fuel for a tank and see if it gets better. So far so good, but I wondered if anyone else has had this issue.
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    I had a problem similar to yours, but it kept stalling unless I revved it a little at start ups.

    It turned out to be the Input Air Control(IAC) valve. I ended up replacing it... the dealer, not me... only to find out that it could have been cleaned out with carb/injector cleaner. I kept the old one, cleaned it, and now I have a backup if needed. By the way, premium gas really doesn't get rid of the problem; it's just costing you more and it's coincidence.

    Question: Does the mechanic own the gas station and has a boat payment due?... just kidding!

    You might want to ask Click & Clack about this problem on their call-in show..."Car Talk".

    When you finally get this resolved, please post your solution on this board so that others can learn from your experience. Good luck.
  • ppborcebppborceb Member Posts: 61
    smoothop1:

    It's been several weeks and three holidays, and I haven't heard from you regarding your discussion with the dealer about the vibration and new information contained in the SSM.

    What's UP???
  • boilermaker1boilermaker1 Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Ranger XLT power door lock switch on the driver side will lock, but not unlock the doors. Passenger side works fine, so does the remote. My first guess is a faulty switch. Do I have to take the entire door panel off to access the switch, or is there some other way to get it out?
  • valance2valance2 Member Posts: 14
    I solved the problem (for me) by buying a new truck (05 frontier crew cab). I didn't trade it because of the problem, but because I needed something with room for 5 people in it.

     

    Mechanic is my brother-in-law who said get one tank of premium because it has detergents etc in it that will clean out the system. If that didn't work he was going to try to pin down the problem.

     

    One tank of premium costs all of $2.40 more than a regular tank, so I didn't mind trying this experiment. It seems like it worked anyway, but you are right, it could be a coincidence.

     

    Edited to add, the problems have been gone since I got the 1 tank of premium, and I went back to 87 octane right after that. That was about 1.5 - 2 months and about 5000 or so miles.
  • cbastoscbastos Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me if seats from a 2004 ext.cab will fit in a 1996 ext. cab ranger?
  • dan1dan1 Member Posts: 76
    I have a 96 Ranger 4x4 and there is a sqeak coming from the front wheels which is usually triggerd by engaging or disengaging the 4 wheel drive but happens sometimes when it is left in 2 wheel drive. The hubs have been replaces once at about 65k and work fine. I just had the bearings checked and re-packed and they are OK. Also just replaced the brake pads. The sqeak is not associated with the brakes. The shop also checked the U-joints and said they were good. Any ideas?????
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    Hi, I am close to purchasing a 2005 Ranger Edge or XLT, My main ? Do the Rangers have Mazda powertrains?nobody seems to know for sure..specifically the 3.0L as used in the ranger.

       What is your impresion of these trucks versus the All new Colorado/canyon? Any ideas?thanks Sean
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I don't know anything about 4x4's.

     

    Do you have Radius Arm Bushings?

     

    These were the problem on my 2WD 1994 Ranger. Gave grunts, groans, squeaks, etc when turning and/or going through bumps, depressions, etc.

     

    I replaced these myself. Not that much of a problem, when you know how to do it.

     

    These bushings are large rubber bushings on the rear of a long arm that comes out of the lower part of the suspension and goes into a bracket across the frame.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The Mazda truck is a twin of the Ranger, actually. Just a few interior options different, and small changes outside.

     

    The 3L has been around in the Ranger since about 1990. It seems to be a good, long-life motor. It will 'probably' ping on regular gas. Most all of them do, and Ford seems to never want to change the design to stop it. The pinging doesn't seem to cause much problems, most will run a long time pinging.

     

    And, it will not get very good milage. If you are looking for milage, the only way is to get the 4 cylinder, 5 speed. The 4 cylinder was a new design a couple years ago, and got more horsepower. But it will still be slow.

     

    If I buy new, it will be the 4L. It gets terrible milage, but has nice power. I just can't see a lot of difference in a new one compared to my top-of-the-line 1994 Extended Cab, Auto, 4L. It gets bad milage also, the best I've seen is 19mpg. But, I love my truck.
  • andyman73andyman73 Member Posts: 322
    My dollar would be the 4.0, also. My father in law has a '00 4X4 w/offroad package and 5A tranny. His best was 20mpg, normal is @18 all around. And he COMPLAINS about it. He expects more. Only has 22K miles on it. They have 3, and his daily is an 03 Volvo S40.

     

    Ironically, his previous truck was a 92 150 4X4 w/offroad package, 5M....but his mistake, had the 300 ci. I6. And only averaged 15mpg in that.

     

    I really like the Ranger, and if they ever make a true 4 door, like everybody else, save Mazda, then I would definitely put it on my short list. I know they aren't looking to do a true make over for several more years. But I won't be in the market until then, anyways. I'm hoping the next gen will be ready when I am.

     

    Okay, I'm done now. :)
  • dan1dan1 Member Posts: 76
    Thanks for the reply bolivar but it doesn't sound like that. It is deffinately associated with rolling and you will here it get quieter as you slow down. Turning does not seem to affect it. It is not a constant noise either it will sometimes come and go. I am thinking it has to be something to do with the front drive shafts when they get engaged.
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    is supposed to come for the 2007 ranger, the current Ranger still looks good exept the front end IMO. the rest of the truck looks good, considering it's basic design is from '92. The new Frontier looks great, exept the Nissan dealers wit there snobby "MSRP" attitude, I told them to keep there overpriced truck..

         I guess it's down to the Ranger or Canyon? Anybody tried the CAnyon/Colorado? Thanks Sean.
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