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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • olga4olga4 Posts: 6
    I've just recently got my car from a body shop (somebody keyed it so it was necessary to repait the whole side). I know I can't wax it and have to use brushless carwash only for 3 months. What about high-pressure wash? Can it damage finish also?
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    yes.. those high pressure washes can mess it up.
  • gitarzangitarzan Posts: 66
    My new 2k Pro has a cussedly ugly dealer logo stuck onto it's fanny right above the Mazda logo. The dealer told me it was attached with double stick foam tape, and to hit it with a hairdryer and slowly peel it off...

    Anyone have a opinion on this technique? Any other way? I don't want to peel off any paint and don't want to bugger it up trying to clean it with chemicals like lighter fluid or tar removers.

    If it was tastful I'd just leave it, but this dealer's logo is downright garish and looks very out of place.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    A hair dryer to warm the tape and then use a piece of dental floss to slowly separate the logo from the car. There are several non-evasive products to remove the tape residue. Go to your local AutoZone or Pep Boys. They will sell, Tar&Bug remover type products that will work.

    Respectfully;
    Larry
  • borgf15borgf15 Posts: 29
    i removed mine; it wasn't a big deal. Bug & tar remover works great to get off the remaining gunk.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Where do you live in Texas? I mentioned at the chat on Thursday, I will be in the Dallas area for a TGI Friday mgr. work shop. I was just wondering what the weather, temp., etc. are like this time of year in Dallas?

    -Larry
  • gitarzangitarzan Posts: 66
    I'm a sick puppy. I just bought clear plastic floor mats to protect the factory mats.

    It's still too cold here to wash and wax. I wanna wash and wax. Weekdays have been nice, weekends are rainy or cold or both.

    If you live somewhere where it's at least 75 deg. this time of year, send me roundtrip airfare and I'll wash and wax your Pro'.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    use Goo Gone.. People use it on Altimas and it works.. I'm glad my dealer use vinyl stickers.. came right off when I washed it.
  • borgf15borgf15 Posts: 29
    we live in wichita falls, about 2 hrs drive from dallas. It's supposed to be mostly cloudy, maybe rainy at times w/ t-storms. Should be highs in the 60's, lows in the 40's. We're right at the start of tornado season....blah!
    Have fun in Dallas!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Hey, thanks! Joe, I did not realize it is that cold, in Dallas this time of year. I figured 80's during the day, 60's at night? I guess I'll throw a spring jacket in the bag. Thanks again!

    -Larry
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    asked my permission to put on his decal...which I promptly refused. then he asked my permission to have the dealer name on the license plate plastic frame...which I agreed.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Here in CA you can always spot an out of state car by a dealer nameplate on the car. Dealers out here wouldn't dare place such unsightly tags on cars. Maybe that's why California cars are so clean!

    :)
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    since you have so many connections, please try and find out something more about the Airconditioner jolt at idle speeds.

    Why does it do so?

    I have noticed that it does not do it when you start the a/c but does it if you have the a/c on for about 15 minutes or so. Like Jerry said, all the ES do it.

    My question is WHY?

    It is so annoying.

    Would appreciate your efforts in this matter.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    Where in California are you?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    When the A/C compressor kicks in, the computer speeds up the idle so that the engine can handle the increased load. Once the A/C system is at full pressure, the compressor begins to cycle on and off as needed, depending on how much freon is being used to cool the evaporator.

    What could be happening is that when the compressor disengages, the engine speed goes even higher momentarily before the computer can correct for decreased load.

    If it is really noticeable, have the dealer inspect it, but this may just be a characteristic of the car. The only parts involved in this system are the PCM(computer) and the IAC(idle air control) valve, but there would most likely be other issues if either on failed.

    :)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I think you know that I am in Irvine.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    it it not the speed. I can appreciate what you are trying to say. This one is a physical jolt. Dealer says it's normal. Mazda says it's normal.

    WHY?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Is it felt when the car is sittling still in neutral?
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    The jolt is something I have worried about for over two years of ownership now. When you first switch on the AC, the idle jumps and the compressor kicks on very smoothly. However, after about ten minutes, the jolt becomes extremely apparant when the compressor kicks on. It is only noticed at idle. My car is a 5-spd, so the car is either in neutral or the clutch is disengaged while at idle. However, I have noticed it on many of the automatics, either in drive or in neutral.

    The jolt feels like someone has just lightly rear-ended you. It's not just a simple jerk like you feel in other cars, but it seems that if you didn't have a foot on the brake, it would cause the car to roll forward slightly. I have watched the engine while it does this, and the engine physically torques on its mounts. You can see the engine twist and even the open hood shakes.

    I've had it checked by the dealer, and they said it is normal. Like I've said before, all of the ES's I have driven, sold, or checked-in do this. I have actually lost a few sales because of this.

    Another problem I have noticed is the idle. Occasionally (once a month), the idle becomes really rough and you can see the tach needle bouncing up and down. I have revved the engine in hopes that it will correct itself when it idles down, but it doesn't. It seems the only way to correct this is to turn off the engine and restart it. Once I do this, everything goes back to normal. I knew I smelled trouble when I saw that the ECM is produced by Intel, but then again, I'm a Mac fan...
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    even Mazda North America assurance told me this.

    No Problem.. It's normal.

    The big question for me is WHY?

    (once I know the why...the solution for that would be also available...)
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    I remember having a similar problem on my 1991 Ford Escort GT. The 1991-1995 Escorts were built on the Protege chassis, but used Ford engines except for the GT. The GT's used Mazda's wonderful 1.8L DOHC based on the Miata's engine (basically the same engine used on the 1990-1993 Protege LX, and the 1994-1998 Protege ES). I will have to say that Miata-based engine was much smoother (particularly in the upper rev range) than the 626-based 1.8L used on the '99-'00. Anyways, I had a similar jolt (not this extreme, but still unnerving) in that car.

    I haven't taken a close look at the compressor pulley, but I would imagine it is spring-loaded for smooth engagement much like a clutch disc is. Perhaps the spring pressure is too hard for idle speeds, as its engagement is hardly noticable at any engine speed about idle.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    someone apparently stole the plastic covers that fill the space where the OEM foglights would be off of my 00 ES! Now my front bumper has 2 big holes right next to the radiator opening in the middle . I have no idea when it was stolen, probably a few days before I saw it Saturday morning. My question is, WHY THE HECK WOULD ANYBODY STEAL 2 PIECES OF USELESS PLASTIC???

    ughh, not mad, just annoyed. And now that the covers are gone, I'm considering installing the OEM foglights, anybody know a dealership around DC/MD/VA area that does it cheap?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    my logic says that the a/c charge after the a/c is running about 10 minutes or more is more than what the engine can handle at idle speeds. Hence the jolt. Reason:

    The engine idle is based on feedback system. it does not think in future. so the moment it senses the load, the speed goes up...but alas...we already felt the jolt.

    How's my theory?
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    maybe someone stole his, so you are the first unlucky fella he sees with the Protege? stinks.. now go buy some fogs to fill in the space!!! :)
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    so the question is;

    does not the low/high pressure sensors check the a/c charge pressure before engaging the clutch?

    or maybe there are no low/high pressure sensors in the PRO ES.

    Maybe it just cycles every 18 seconds...no matter what the pressures are.
  • sfratsfrat Posts: 205
    Sounds like a good excuse/justification to get the foglights without feeling guilty about spending the money on something frivoulous. You just CAN'T leave that big, gaping hole as it is. :-)

    Steve
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    All A/C systems use high/low pressure switches.

    I don't know what to tell you about the jolt. It's hard enough for a tech to diagnose the thing when they are looking at car, much less for a guy who sits behind a desk and has not gotten his hands dirty on a regular basis for a few years now. If I get a good answer, I'll keep you posted.

    :)
  • digidavedigidave Posts: 43
    New item of notice: Has anyone come across a whistling sound (as in an air seal leak) that comes from the engine compartment at highway speeds?

    First noticed it the other day and thought it was coming from the sunroof or perhaps the antenna mast. However, I'm able to reproduce the sound at will when on the highway at 3400 RPM (in top gear). Releasing gas pedal pressure diminishes the whistle, increasing pressure brings it back at a very discernable pitch (mostly at 3400 rpm). Almost sounds like a turbo charger but not as pleasing.

    Today I tried to reproduce the whistle at lower speeds (in lower gear by turning overdrive off) and at same rpm and sure enough it's there too but not as pronounced.

    Any ideas?

    Dave

    btw, vehicle is an '01 Protegé ES Automatic
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    I understand your problem...but you own a DX, if I remember correctly. Does it not jolt when a/c engages? (after 10 minutes or more of a/c running? )

    I know it's not only me, Jerry also confirms this.

    please let us know if it is a pressure switch problem...a wrong one bieng specified may cause it.
This discussion has been closed.