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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

11718202223

Comments

  • sean17sean17 Member Posts: 4
    that's great advice. Thanks, I'll see what I can get done.
  • amateuramateur Member Posts: 1
    My coolant level close to low mark. (Protege ES 2001) Should I add a bit of Walmart Super Tech; coolant or distilled water or both? I read all the stories with silicate non-silicant coolant compatibility and not sure now. :( OM doesnt seem to specify this.

    Thanx.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    I'd get a checker for whatever coolant is in there (probably propylene glycol), to make sure the SG is correct. If it's in the right range, then add a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If it indicates there is too much coolant, then just add distilled water.
  • djparadjpara Member Posts: 2
    Okay, so I feel pretty stupid right now and I hope someone can help me soon! :cry:
    Tonight, on the interstate, my 1.5L '95 Protege (manual tranny) started sqwealing REALLY bad in 2nd and 3rd gears. I thought I changed my oil a couple of months ago, but I might have just drained the gear oil pan and added a lot more oil to my crankcase!
    Under my car, there are 2 (as it looks) bolt that could drain fluid. One is pointing straight down and is about 15/16" in size. The other is more to the passenger side, and is on the back of a black pan pointing toward the back of the car.
    I drained the first one, and now I'm thinking that was the gear oil and I've been riding around without and lube in the gear box for a couple of months!! The past couple of days, my shifter has been sticking really bad, then tonight, under my car sounded like a wild turkey was stuck in my engine!
    I know I need about 3 quarts of 75w-90 gear oil (and prolly some Lucas Transmission Fix to try and repair a little!) and a tube to put it in...
    So am I right about having pulled the wrong plug? PLEASE HELP SOON! I really need my car back on the road! :(
    Thanks for your time!
    -Jon :lemon: <- my car
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    The one on the passenger side is the motor oil pan (that's where it was on my '89 323, and that's where it is on my '99 ProLX and on my wife's '03 P5).

    D'oh!
  • ripcordripcord Member Posts: 23
    Sorry, but I laughed as I read your post. I shouldn't taken enjoyment from others misfortunes, but I couldn't help it. How could you not notice the difference in oil viscosity when you were making the change? :surprise: At any rate, you might have pooched your tranny, but you may be lucky. I would definitely add some lucas oil additive if you are going to use the basic mineral based gear oil. On the other hand, you may be better off to add synthetic gear oil and as an ounce of good luck add some lucas synthetic oil additive. Synthetic runs cooler (up to 50 degress F in some cases) which may help with your tranny live a little longer after the abuse. Let us know how you make out. Good luck :shades:
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Here are a few (true) stories to help you right now:

    Uh, the cap, dudes?

    My dad drives a 1997 Buick Riviera (poor, old man). He took it in for an oil change a few months ago at his Buick dealership. The whole way home he noticed a burning smell, and thought they'd just dripped some oil on his intake manifold. But the more he drove, the more he also noticed what looked like a convex dent in the middle of his hood.

    He got home and opened the hood to find oil all over everything and his filler cap sitting on top of the valve cover, nearly crushed between the valve cover and the hood where the dealership had left it after changing his oil.

    His dealership wound up paying more than $1,000 for a body shop to repair the hood and repaint the car.

    Synthetic comes outta that too?

    I switched to synthetic oil at about 40,000 miles in my former car, a 2000 Protege ES. I was at Merchant's getting my oil changed one afternoon about a year ago, and I was watching the guys through the little window in the customer waiting area. Near the end of the procedure, I watched as a guy walked up to my open hood and gently placed five one-quart containers of Mobil One on my valve cover. I then watched him walk away and grab this big hose that was hanging from the ceiling. He then came back to my hood with the hose, inserted it in my oil filler opening, and squeezed a trigger.

    Curious, I walked up to the guy at the front desk and said, "I did pay for a full-synthetic oil change, right?" Oh yes, he assured me. "Well," I continued,"if you're not supposed to mix dino oil with synthetic oil in your engine, should you be shooting both kinds of oil through the same hose out there in your shop?"

    He looked at me like I was stupid and said, "We don't use the hose for synthetic. We use Mobil One in bottles." I gestured toward the window and he got all wide-eyed. He ran out there and I watched as he confronted the mechanic, who then turned around, noticed the full bottles of Mobil One, and smacked himself on the head and rolled his eyes.

    The front desk guy came back to me. "Mr. Daffron, it's going to be a few more minutes while we drain the regular oil out of your engine, get a new filter and put synthetic in it like we should have. And this oil change will be on us."

    "Hon-what?"

    Okay, this one's my favorite, and it goes all the way back 18 years to late 1987. I had just bought my first brand-new vehicle, a 1988 Hyundai Excel GL 5-door hatchback. (Whoa DUDE!) :shades:

    Well, I wanted to make a little bit of a "statement" with my econobox, so after owning the car a few weeks, I drove it to a local, reputable (so I was told) tire and wheel store and ordered up a set of American Racing Stingray wheels for it, along with some nice, wide-profile tires. (Honestly, they didn't look half bad.)

    The guy behind the desk had never seen a Hyundai in his shop before. (They had only come out a year earlier). I looked through his catalog and picked out my wheels, and he said to give him a minute while he ordered them. He picked up the phone. Part of his conversation went, "yeah, they're for a 1988 Hy- Hon - Hy-on-dai. Yep, hy-on-dai. I dunno how to pronounce it either."

    Well, the wheels came in a few days later and they installed them and my new tires, and I was off. A day or two later I took the car on the highway for the first time since getting the new wheels, and when I reached about 60 mph, my steering wheel shook violently. I took the car back and they checked all the balancing, alignment, etc. Still vibrating like crazy on the highway. They took it back again, checked a few more things, and told me to come back in three days since they needed to order two new tires -- they suspected two of my new tires might have been slightly out-of-round.

    I came back three days later and had the two new tires installed. Out I went. Still vibrated! In I came. "Must be somethin' wrong with one of the wheels," the guy said. So he ordered me a whole set of four new wheels.

    I came back a week later. They installed all new wheels. The vibration was still there! So bad that it had started making the dashboard rattle when it happened! I drove it back to the shop and the guy had a guest. Seems the rep from American Racing had stopped by on his monthly visit to his outlets. The shop guy introduced me to him and explained my exasperating problem to him. The rep was standing beside my car at this point and asked what kind of car it was. The shop guy and I answered in unison, although I said "Hun-day" and the shop guy said "Hon-day."

    The American Racing rep got a little pale looking and walked inside the shop office and got on the phone. He walked back outside about two minutes later.

    "Mr. Daffron, I apologize for all you've been through over the past few weeks. Turns out the Hyundai Excel is so new, American Racing doesn't make wheels for it yet."

    "Then what do I have on my car?!" I asked, kinda pointedly.

    "Honda wheels. Civic, to be exact. The bolt pattern is close enough so they still fit your studs, but not close enough to be a match at rotating properly."

    There's a sunny side to this story too. They took the wheels off, reinstalled my Hyundai's OEM steel wheels and wheel covers, refunded the entire price of the new wheels and tires, BUT let me keep the new tires for my trouble.

    And I've never been back to Hanover Tire again!

    Meade
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    There's a sunny side to this story too.

    All things considered, Meade, the sunny side of your story is that your alive to tell it.

    p.s. is Hanover still in business?
  • djparadjpara Member Posts: 2
    Well, thanks for the help (and the laughs)! I went ahead and lubed it back up and threw in some lucas. The car runs fine & shifts great. (God's really good to me! :) ) Now I've got to do my brakes and belts! Belts started sqwealing after a terrential downpour a few days ago (and it's still raining!!...) But they only sqweak every once in a while when I start my car. I CAN tell that the days of my car are numbered... I'm shopping around for a new(er) ride! (Might be a Protege5!! ^_^)
    So, in short, I and my car are not dead (yet)!!
    Thanks again!
    -Jon
  • redbaby2002redbaby2002 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I drive approximately 120 miles per workday, commuting between York and Baltimore. I am curious about using Slick 50 products to better maintain my 2002 Protege. Has anyone used these products before, and what has been your experience with them? Would you recommend products that were better for engine, fuel injector maintenance and optimization?

    Thanks greatly,
    Erin
  • skip616skip616 Member Posts: 6
    I just recently acquired a 2001 Mazda Protege ES from my mother. It has 98K miles and it is excellent condition (it has all the options, side air bags, ABS, sunroof, 6CD changer). I bought this car new in 2001 and sold this car to my mother in 2004 with 68K miles. I noticed then that the car was very loud on the highway and the noise was very pronounced in the rear of the car. The original tires have been replaced twice on the car with Dunlop low profile tires and the rims that came on the ES are still on the car. Tires are 195 50R 16 with the original Mazda rims. As the car gets older it just seems to be more pronounced. I haven't driven the car until I acquired the car just recently and it just seems annoying to have that much road noise. Has any one else experienced this problem with the ES model?

    I am an avid Mazda owner and have owned them since the early 90's. I have owned a 1991 Mazda 626 DX, a 1992 Mazda Protege DX, a 1993 Mazda Protege LX and I still own a 1996 Mazda 626 ES with 169K miles. This car still drives like a new car and is so smooth riding. I have had to put about $3,000 into the car over the last 2 years and the car is still going strong. Since the 626 burns premium unleaded fuel I thought it would a good idea to acquire the Protege to cut down my fuel consumption and cost.

    I am totally sold on Mazda's. They are excellent cars and I highly recommend them.

    Skip
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    replaced twice ... with Dunlop low profile ... 195 50R 16 ... original Mazda rims.

    Which model of Dunlops? How's the suspension? Ever try a wheel alignment?
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    The pro is not a quiet car. Tire noise is the worst problem. Mine came with bridgestone re92's, which were noisy. I replaced them with bridgestone s-03's, which were just as noisy, but at a different pitch. I'm now running michelin pe2's, which are somewhat quieter, but not noiseless. Hiway or touring tires are generally quieter than perfromance tires, but I will stand the noise in return for good handling. Tires tend to get noisier as they wear, as well.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    BFG Traction T/A VR4s. I had them on my 2000 Protege ES, and my wife has them now on her 2002 Protege5. Very nice handling tire, excellent traction (AA rated) in dry and wet (even does pretty good in snow), and lasts a long time. Oh -- very quiet (compared to Bridgestone and Dunlops) too. Check them out at Tirerack -- we picked up my wife's set at Sears for about $103 a tire, everything included.

    Meade
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Tires tend to get noisier as they wear
    That's interesting. I don't think I ever "heard" ;) that before. I would have thought that as they wear the rough spots would get worn down so the tires would get smoother and flatter and hence quieter.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    BFG Traction T/A VR4s.

    Agreed! I have just had these installed on my P5 and they are a dream. See the Mazda Protoge5 forum for more information.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Well autonomous ...

    I had about 30,000 miles on my set when I traded my Protege, and they had plenty of tread left. My wife's P5 has about 15,000 miles on hers, and they too are wearing nicely. Nice choice.

    And yes (to the other guy), tires get louder as they wear. Think about it -- less tread to absorb road noise. Go to any discussion at Tirerack and you'll see people talking about tires being "quiet at first" but getting louder as they age.

    Meade
  • moretimemoretime Member Posts: 1
    Interference engine or impact engine means when the timing belt breaks the pistons and valves inside the engine impact and break. This happens because the timing belt keeps the camshaft( which turns to open and close the valves) and the crankshaft( which moves the pistons up and down) turning at the same speed so the valves and pistons do their job properly creating compression in the cylinders at the right time to give the car power. When the timing belt breaks the camshaft and crankshaft spin out of control and imact each other. A few auto makers make non-impact engines that allow extra clearance so if this happens the valves and pistons don't hit, even at highway speeds. You guesses it, Toyota Camry. If you don't have one, change your timing belt every 60,000 miles.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Stick to regular fluid and filter changes, wash off dirt & salt and you'll do a lot for the longevity of your Pro.

    Switch to synthetic oil if your car sees temperature extremes or you like to rev the engine high for prolonged periods (or if you're picky, like me, heh...seriously, the engine seems to start much more easily when temps are below freezing). I haven't done so, but others have switched to synthetic transmission fluid with positive results.
  • skip616skip616 Member Posts: 6
    Meade:

    Thanks for your reply. Did you install a set of BFG Traction T/A 205/50/16/V on your 2000 Protege ES? If you install a larger size tire will it create any problems? I have heard if you install larger tires that possibly your check engine light will go on since it senses there is a change. Did you experience any problem going to a larger tire? I currently have Dunlop 195/50/16 tires on car.

    Thanks, Skip
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Nope, I installed the OEM 195/55-VR15s on my Protege. (The ES wheels were upped an inch in 2001.) I previously had 205/50-15's on my car, and since this was a "plus zero" size, it didn't make much of a difference -- less than 1 mph at 60. Consult the tech info at tirerack.com for an explanation of "plus" sizing.

    Here's a great little tool to use to see what the difference will be when changing tire sizes slightly:

    http://www.paspeedo.com/calculator.htm

    Meade
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I replaced the standard Dunlop 195/50/16/V on my Protege5 with BFG Traction T/A 205/50/16/V tires this week and they have been completely problem free. Better than that, they are wonderfully sticky and make the car feel well-planted while zooming up the tachometer. Highly recommended tires!
  • duh_sterduh_ster Member Posts: 102
    Hey all, it's been awhile since i've been here...can't believe I still recognize a lot of the handles here!!

    anyways, my dunlops are toast (195/50/16), and i need new rubber...AUTO, u mention that u purchased BFG Traction T/As. how r they in the snow? i'm just looking for a good "all season" (= western canada snow, ice, rain, dry, etc) tire that is cost efficient (ie. "el-cheapo")....anybody else have any suggestions?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    my dunlops are toast (195/50/16)
    How many miles/km did they last?

    BFG Traction T/As. how r they in the snow? i'm just looking for a good "all season" (= western canada snow, ice, rain, dry, etc) tire that is ... "el-cheapo"
    Installed the BFG Traction 205/50/16 T/A a couple of weeks ago and thank god there's been no white stuff here yet (although I hear that parts out West did get a sprinkle). Any day now (but likely by mid-December) I'll get to test them in the snow. That being said, I'm not driving the entire winter on all seasons ... especially in Canada. I've got an excellent set of BFG Winter Slaloms for those 4 months of winter sports:
    * the ice-slide-to the-stop-sign marathon,
    * the blinded-by-a-freak-snowstorm test,
    * the white-knuckle-avoidance-of-jerks-dashing-to-their-graves-on-unplowed-streets challenge. :surprise:

    p.s. BFGs are popular which means you can shop several outlets for the best price and you can also replace them easily in case of accidents.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    How's it going, Duhster my old friend? Long time no see!

    Ditto on the BFG Traction T/As. My wife's set has close to 20K miles on 'em and they're really good tires at a really reasonable price. I'd be looking at them for my next set if they'd make 'em in a size that'll fit my 3!

    So how's everything?

    Meade
  • duh_sterduh_ster Member Posts: 102
    ...i only got 67000 kms on the stock dunlops. i went to midas for an oil change, and they topped up my tires. stupid me didn't check the airpressure until about 2 months later when i noticed one tire was nearly flat. upon inspection, they were all about 10psi over-inflated (except the flat one of course), and the tires looked like they'd been thru the grinder...*sigh* i wouldn't mind trying the BFGs, just not too sure about their winter performance...i don't have the $$ to have 2 sets of tires...*double sigh* and of course, it snowed today...

    MEADE! long time no chat buddy...i've been searching for your group on yahoo with no luck...guess this is THE BEST place to meet up anyways!! u guys have a M3 now? when did that happen??? did u trade in one of the pros??
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Mike!

    How's life?

    Still have my 2000 Pro...~48,700 miles (sorry, don't know what that it is in Loonies. ;) ).

    Hope you're doing well!

    --Dale
  • duh_sterduh_ster Member Posts: 102
    everything is ok here...i've got it up to 68000kms (~42,000 miles). let's see...i think u guys knew about my T-bone car accident (idiot ran a stop sign and slammed into my 11 month old car...not even 1 yr...) :cry: it's all fixed up now and running fairly good. let's see, i got a $120 speeding ticket (excess zoom zoom evidently...yea, cop didn't think it was funny either...) windsheild & rubber needs to be replaced. brakes are starting to squeek, so i'll get those looked at too! let's see, from a life perspective (just to answer meade's question!) i got married a couple months ago! she needed a new car too, but i couldn't convince her to get a protege...err...3. oh well, i convinced her to marry me, so i'm still ahead in the long run... ;)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    got 67000 kms on the stock dunlops
    Actually, 67K km (~42K miles) is more than decent for these tires; many of us didn't get half that out of ours.

    BFGs ... not too sure about their winter performance...i don't have the $$ to have 2 sets of tires...*double sigh* and of course, it snowed today...
    The Traction T/As are beefy (especially in the 205/50/16 configuration), quiet, grippy and in rainy conditions they don't hydroplane. So, in their first year they may not be bad for the snow. Later, if they start handling poorly in the winter, fork over the dollars for winter tires next year. If you handled several winters in your Dunlops, you should be able to best Frosty with the BFGs.

    My 205/50/16 Traction T/As cost $131 each (before tax) at Canadian Tire; this included wheel installation but not balancing ($8) or alignment. My BFG Winter Slaloms cost $700 for the tires and rims (including tax) at an independent tire shop.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Congrats, Mike!

    On-topic: Well, at least one of you owns a Protege. :shades:
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    :)

    On-topic: my wife has exceeded 45000 mi on her original Dunlops (well, her P5). But we're scoping out the aftermarket tires (Traction T/A and Kumho Ecsta)....the tires look like they could handle one more winter. This time, I will make sure she replaces her tires BEFORE the rubber crumbles (like they did on her 7yr-old Dunlop D60A2s on her '91 Saturn).
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    the rubber crumbles (like they did on her 7yr-old Dunlop

    Goodness, she's getting her money's worth out of her tires. Did you hear that some manufacturers are recommending that tires be labelled dangerous if they go beyond a certain period (I think it was 5 years) because of the degradation of the compounds?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Yep, I traded the 2000 Protege with 91,100 miles on it (we can't all be like Dale, after all) for a Velocity Red 2005 Mazda3 hatch back in April. I've already got more than 10,000 miles on it and I'm lovin' it!

    Meade
  • meatnormousmeatnormous Member Posts: 2
    The better half had to replace her P5 Dunlops at around 37000kms. Replaced them with Kumho Ecsta's. For the price, can't really beat them. Great traction and so far no signs of wear. She's now at 47000 kms. Now looking for something really good for the winter.
  • meatnormousmeatnormous Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Along with that, I think they should make the date of manufacture more obvious on tires, so consumers can make sure they don't buy tires that are too old.

    Even if my tires still have plenty of tread left, I tend to replace them every 5 years, just like the car battery.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Even if my tires still have plenty of tread left, I tend to replace them every 5 years, just like the car battery.
    Since most people don't keep their cars over 10 years replacing your battery and tires at the 5 year interval makes a lot of sense. Why wait until you get into trouble? My battery is still kicking after 3.5 years so I'm hoping to get it through another two Canadian winters; wish me luck!
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    For folks not needing an all-season tire, I heartily recommend the Michelin PE-2. I paid $113 each, installed and balanced with hazard warranty at Costco. Dry response is a bit below the best max-performance tires, but in other parameters, it is equal to the top tires in the dry. Wet performance is phemomenal. It is better in the rain than most high performance are on dry pavement. Besides the tirerack.com test, check out:

    Michelin Pilot Exalto 2 (PE2)
  • harkinbanksharkinbanks Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum. I've got an '03 Pro5 which I'm very happy with. I read somewhere that the cabin air filter is supposed to be changed out once a year but I can't find any info in the owner's manual on how you go about changing it. Anyone have any experience with that? I'd rather not pay the dealership to do simple maintenance like that. Thanks!!!
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    No cabin air filter in any Protege or P5 sold in the US that I know of.
  • patrickinfairfpatrickinfairf Member Posts: 1
    Has any replaced the front brake pads (ceramic), turned rotors lately? If so what did you pay for this? My mechanic is quoting me $346. That seems steep. Patrick (2002 P5, 54,000 miles)
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr Member Posts: 112
    Hi guys, my baby (01' LX 2.0 sedan) hit the big 60000 today. How long can I drive before something happens? I do plan on taking my car in sometime next week but just want to make sure!
    Also, I am still having problems w/ my car picking up and going. Sometimes its like it used to be when I step on the gas I get a quick acceleration but more often, when I need /want to speed up, she won't go and I am pressing the gas petal to the floor. I had so far, fuel injectors flushed, replaced spark plugs, and my service advisor said that everything seems right. Is it just because my car is about 5 yrs now and this is to be expected? Thanks in advance!!
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    The timing belt may break tomorrow, but likely will last 100,000 miles w/o incident.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I agree with civiletti about the timing belt change; follow Mazda's recommended schedule and you should be fine.

    Regarding the lack of acceleration / pick up you're sensing, you may want to consider a motor vac service to clean the throttle body. Basically the technician cleans the carbon that has accumulated in the throttle body; this carbon buildup can lead to parts gets sticky and preventing the right air fuel mixture being used in the engine. Have you noticed any drop in fuel economy? That's another symptom of the carbon buildup over time. The service is not expensive. :)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    You may also want to replace the air filter and the plug wires, if you haven't already done those.
  • bondsbonds Member Posts: 1
    I'm new i just want more info on the mazda6 I bought a 2003 mazdaspeed 5 for my husband birthday 4 months ago he wants a mazda6. I dont know much about them thats why I'm here could you guys give me a hand on this should i buy it for him or should i tell him to keep the one he has?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    That's my first question. I'd be very happy if my wife bought me a nice car.

    Anyway, onto your question:

    By 2003 Mazdaspeed 5, I assume you mean the Mazdaspeed Protege. Also, which Mazda6 does he want? There are 3 body styles, and there's the Mazdaspeed6, which is based on the sedan 6. All 3 body styles of the 6 are larger than the Protege. However, in terms of internal cabin space, I think the 6 hatch is smaller than the Protege, especially if you equip it with a moonroof.

    The Protege has a better reliability record than the 6, in general. I don't have information on the Mazdaspeed Protege specifically. The 6 use new engine designs. Except for the Mazdaspeed versions, they all recommend regular fuel. Fuel economy of the Mazdaspeed Protege is about equivalent to the 2.3L engine in the 6i sedan and hatch. The 6cyl engine option for the 6 will get less mpg, but doesn't require premium like the Mazdaspeed Pro.

    Personally, I think the Mazdaspeed Pro handles better (this is up to your tastes) and has more direct feedback (I feel the 6 are all too heavy for real "tossability"). On the flip side, there is a bit of turbo lag, which the non-turbo versions of the 6 don't have, and the 6 are better as long-distance cruisers.
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    At what point have pro owners replaced the strut cartridges? My '99es has 52k miles. It seems to handle fine to me, but my wife, who drives like a snail, thinks the suspension has become sloppy.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    No serious degradation, but I did notice the suspension was improved immediately after the change. I could've waited a bit longer, but I manage to avoid most of the potholes around my area.
  • lizh456lizh456 Member Posts: 1
    My Protege is up on 90,000 miles and I am going to get the timing belt replaced, can anyone tell me if the cam, crank and waterpump need to be replaced since they are in the same area? I am getting conflicting reports. What are the cam and crank for anyway?
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