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Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications

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Comments

  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    http://knfilters.performanceproducts.com/

    You just select your make/model.

    They deliver fast and have great customer service.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Yes, Nike you are right. I had a K&N filter in my 1999 DX when I had it. The mileage dropped by like 2-5 mpg, so I sent it back to K&N. The throaty sound that came with the filter was neat though, and some of it remained even though I had taken out the filter.

    CD changer: The CD changer goes in place of the single CD player SFRat. The cassette player goes in the bottom where it normally comes. It's a 6-disc unit like the 626, Millenia, and other Mazda products have. It's more convenient than having to reload CDs in the trunk or under one of the seats. I would like the convenience of putting in 6 discs instead of just one, but I only listen to an average of 3 or so songs on each disc, so it wouldn't make sense for me to install the changer.

    Tinted windows: My next project for my 2001 ES 2.0 will be to have the windows tinted. I am going to check out the various levels, and see which one I am comfortable with before I do it.

    I just turned the magic 1000-mile mark today, so it's off for an oil change this weekend to remove all those particles from the engine when it was new.
  • borgf15borgf15 Member Posts: 29
    I was told by a salesman (I guess I just lost credibility right there) that because the stereos on the protege are modular, you can put in that new kenwood mp3 player (from the pro mps) if you want. Does anyone know this to be true? It certainly would be nice, as you can put 10 hrs worth of mp3 music on a single CD, negating the need for the 6 disc changer!
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    Stylincompacts.com has strut bars for 1995-2000 Pros. Cheapest I've seen.
    The question is: How difficult is it to install? Does installing strut bars need the removal of wheels or anything?
  • sfratsfrat Member Posts: 208
    Wow, that would be neat if it were true. But, I think the non mp3 protege stereos are made by Pioneer, so I'm not sure whether you could throw a kenwood system in it. Maybe, but I'm skeptical. Of course, I thought you could not have the CD Changer and tape, so shows you how much I know! :-)

    Steve
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    Saw an ad for this product but can find it in any of my local stores. I'd love to get the green mica tint on my tires! Anyone know a place I can get this on-line?!
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    what is this? a colored spray?
  • borgf15borgf15 Member Posts: 29
    Steve,
    Pioneer, hmmmm... You wouldn't think they would be compatible then. It sure would be nice though!
    Borg
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Mazda has always used various brands of radios in there cars, but over the last few years it has been either FMS or Panasonic(sorry, no pioneers)for the most part. However, I belive the MP3 kenwood has an adapter harness that connects to the standard Mazda radio harness so you would be able to use it in your standard Protege.

    :)
  • sfratsfrat Member Posts: 208
    Panasonic/Pioneer! Close. Although I think I remember my seeing that my speakers were Pioneer. That doesn't mean anything of course because the had unit and speaker manufacturers could be different. I'm going to check it out when I get home, and double check myself.

    The adapter makes complete sense. BTW, what's FMS? Never heard of them.

    Steve
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    You are correct about the speakers, Pioneer in many cases.
    FMS = Ford Mazda Sanyo. Surprisingly, these radios are not too bad.

    Not trying to pick a fight, but I would take a Matsushita(Panasonic & Technics) over Pioneer any day of the week.

    :)
  • mmconheammconhea Member Posts: 1
    It's a gell that paints your sidewalls color. It's made by Black Magic (Blue Coral). It comes in Red, Green, blue and black. All colors have mica sparkles in them. MSRP of $4.99 a bottle.
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    No need to remove wheels or anything. Just pop open the hood and carefully loosen the nuts on top of the strut towers, install bar and retighten nuts. You may have an issue of the bar fitting with some of your brackets, but that's it.

    Regards,

    Pete
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    how much of an improvement does it make? Does is make for a rougher ride too?
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    man am I glad I made the purchase. It looks SO MUCH better now. I ordered from Corksports, and they are indeed Japanese OEM parts. It's so Japanese that the socket/bulb were Euro standards, therefore I cannot just replace the bulbs with the one that came with the corners.

    Instead of installing a brand new set of sockets just for the bulbs, I went to Pep Boys and got a set of replacement amber bulbs. Here's a number to remember: 1157. That's the part number for the signal lights, so get 1157A as the amber equivalent.

    I'll take some pics later today and do a "before-after" pic post.

    Totally worth it.

    H
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    A) image

    or

    B)image

    I vote for B.
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    Did not really change the ride characteristics over bumps, but it did help keep it from following the crowned roads as bad as before. I really enjoy having it for the little bit extra control and feel it provides.

    Regards,

    Pete
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    I like em both...
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    You said something about the strut bar not fitting properly with the cruise control bracket or something. Does your cruise still work or did you have to disconnect it? And how hard would it be for an amateur like me to install the strut bar on my 2001?
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    Cruise still works fine, but it's not for the faint of heart. I had to cut a big piece from the bracket. With the already stiffened chassis on the 2001 ES, and the 16" rims and tires, you will probably already outhandle me. If I owned the 2001 I wouldn't be adding a strut bar....

    Regards,

    Pete
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Damn, something I did NOT know about the Protege...

    When did they stiffen the chassis? I didn't know that was one of the changes for the 2001 model. Well then, I won't bother with the strut bar. Thanks, Pete. Good luck in your new city BTW.
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    the_big_h: Your clear corners look great. Definitely better than those orange ones.

    I'm probably not going to go for the strut bar if it means having to mess with my cruise control. I wonder if a different bar would be shaped differently enough to not be obstructed by the cruise box.
  • h109h109 Member Posts: 36
    i like everything about my 2000 Pro except for the audio & wind-noise. please suggest me of any modifications/enhancements to increase my pleasure of driving the Pro.

    1) sound system : would a set of good speakers/tweeters/sub-woofer help. (i would think so). but, i don't think i can afford all that at once. so would you gimme advice on the priorities and names.

    2) is there anything else i can do reduce the excessive road noise. right now, 40mph is the crossover point for me to feel it.

    thanks for the info.
    -hari
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Wind noise: There are some places that sell aftermarket soundproofing and such, but I am not too skilled in that area. Maybe someone else on this board can assist you with that one.

    Sound system: Your best bet would be to change out the speakers first. Get a nice set of speakers, then work your way up from there.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    get better tires.. especially if you have the ES tires (R92)... damn those things are noisy...

    You can buy dyno mat and put in the doors and trunk, and if you want, under the carpet (strip it out 1st) but that is too much hassle.
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    I upgraded my tires to some high performance Michilens. That cut the noise in about half.

    I'm very satisfied with my 99's sound system. Wouldn't upgrade that to anything. It's got great bass and wonderful highs. Wonder if they used different system after 99.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    My 2000 PRO-ES's came with very nice sound systems. At this price point(under $18,000), I never expected this quality of audio. The FM tuner is much better than the one's in my old Ford Taurus and my Toyota Corolla. I get radio stations in Philly, that I never got with both the cars; I previously mentioned. I never owned a car with a CD player prior to my Mazda's, nonetheless I feel the sound quality is excellent for OME gear!

    -Larry
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Are the sound systems the same in the restyled 2001 models as in the 1999? Just curious, because the stereo to me sounds better in my 2001 ES than it did in the 1999 DX I had.
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    Thanks. Yes the RE92 are noisy, worse so in the cold temps here in Chicago. The extra weight in the 2001 vs. 2000 model Protege is from a stiffer front subframe and thicker sheetmetal in the strut towers to further enhance the handling of the Protege. The ES gets some thicker sway bars (underneath the car) and the MP3 gets still thicker sway bars, lowered suspension and 17" rims and tires. I hear the MP3 calling my name...

    "Drive me Pete, buy me and drive me!!!!"

    Maybe I'll trade in my 2000 for that MP3 when it comes out.

    Pete
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    My 1999 DX (with 37.8K on it at time of trade-in) was worth $7500. Now that I think about it, I guess that's not too bad. But be careful because the negative equity demond will be following you around, Pete.
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    If I finance at 0.0% for 48 months, I might end up saving money in the long run...I'll have to check it out...I'm paying 8.49% on my current loan (no specials when I bought my car since I wanted to defer payments for 90 days while I sold my '92 LX for $5500).

    I'll really have to check it out.

    Thanks for the reminder though Paul!

    Regards,

    Pete
  • digidavedigidave Member Posts: 48
    Quickie question: anyone know where's the best place to pick up a set of oem mud guards for a 2001 Protegé at a "good" price? (i.e., better than the $180 dealer price!)

    Dave
  • barosbaros Member Posts: 8
    Just ordered factory oem mud guards for 2000 LX Pro from www.mazdastuff.com at $31.50 a pair. They actually sent an extra pair of rear flaps in the box. Installation was easy and hardware was inclusive. IMO dealer labor to install not worth the cost. I was quoted $140.00 installed at dealer with flaps quoted at $80.00
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The OEM mud guards are only about $40 from most dealers. If your's is getting $180, time to stop buying from them.

    Part numbers:
    B25F-V3-450F (front)
    B25F-V3-460F (rear)

    :)
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    How hard or easy is it to install the mud guards? I called the parts guy at my dealership, and he told me he wouldn't say because it depends on the skill level of the person doing it and all.

    I mean, are there any holes to drill or anything of that nature, or do they just snap in and screw? Just curious, because I was thinking about getting a set from mazdastuff.com. BTW, my dealership wants $57 a set for the guards.
  • barosbaros Member Posts: 8
    On the 2000 LX all the holes are there (no drilling)Look in your wheelwell for the holes. The flaps come with all hardware brackets and screws. Get a racheting offset screw driver. Should take about 10-15 min. a flap..
  • unmarkedcarunmarkedcar Member Posts: 162
    Is there any METAL-TO-METAL contact? I know that the bumpers in the back are plastic, but what about the front? do the screw go into the metal part or plastic part?
  • barosbaros Member Posts: 8
    The three brackets which hold the screws for rear flaps are metal. The fourth screw is under the wheelwell and there is already a screw there. If you're concerned about scratching the paint, I don't see how you could...Really simple installation...On the front, in the wells, there are screws there already.The fourth screw for the underside has a plastic grommet which goes into a square hole already there.
  • unmarkedcarunmarkedcar Member Posts: 162
    Do the gaurds help that much?
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    Last week while I was installing the clear corners (which I believe is one of the best purchases I've ever made, ever!) I took a nice look at the stock air intake box, and saw that there's a pipe running from the air box to just right above the radiator, disappearing into the plastic cover right above the radiator. Is that where the stock air box gets its air from?

    any comments/answers/gibberish welcome.

    H
  • barosbaros Member Posts: 8
    piece of mind knowing that the paint isn't being chewed off the edges from the salt..etc..
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    They are standard on all passenger vehicles. You can buy them pretty much anywhere and in many sizes. You car should have holes already drilled for them. Mine did. I bought nice flaps at Autozone for $20- the fit nice and looked good, but I took them off because I didn't think they did much for how stupid they made my pro look.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I was going to get the mud guards for my car, but am not sure if they are worth it. Do they keep the road grime off the bottom behind the wheels? My car is black, and hard enough to keep clean. Anything that's gonna help keep it clean longer is definitely money well spent to me. Let me know.

    Thanks!
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    more than likely.. but chances are its only a small little hole where air actually comes in.. you can open it up more, or add a cone filter intake..
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    The factory mud flaps do make a big difference. They protect the lower sides of the car from rocks and mud and salt that's thrown up from the tires. Even after rainy days, those ugly spray patterns from the tires are not there. The factory mud flaps fit perfectly onto the body. Once installed, they look like the factory installed them. No gaps at all between the body and the flap. Plus, they are hardly noticable and are very simple to install.


    The air intake on the '99 and '00 Protege ES is a cold air intake. It draws air in from right above the radiator. This air is cooler and more dense, meaning more oxygen and better combustion. I am not sure where the LX and DX models pull air from. I'll have to look at one.


    For aftermarket parts, check out http://www.corksport.com


    They have clear corner lamps, "Sport 20" body kits, headlight conversions, Mazdaspeed body kits, Mazdaspeed performance parts (air filters, springs, adjustable struts, etc.), and various aftermarket performance and cosmetic parts.

  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    After those EVIL Bridgestone Potenza RE92's wore out (about 17,000 miles), I replaced them with a set of Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" 205/50R15 tires. They are much quieter than the RE92's and have more grip. They do "chatter" a bit (squeal on slippery surfaces such as painted lines and warnings on asphalt). There are no modifications required as this is a "plus 1" tire size. They fit perfectly and don't rub at all. They are wider and lower profile than the stock EVIL tires. And better yet... they only cost $78 each at Discount Tire (America's Tire east of the Mississippi, I believe). I wanted the Michelin Pilot series tires, but the $230 price tag per tire scared me away from that. Plus, in performance tests, the Michelin's outperformed the Nitto's by very slim margins, making the Nitto's better tires for the money.
  • digidavedigidave Member Posts: 48
    Thanks everyone for the advice.

    I will definitely check out the sites mentioned as I am opting to install for the sake of

    1) protecting the tire splash areas from road grime, dirt, etc. (any deflection of debris certainly has to help, especially to keep the tar off of the painted surfaces, which I'm sure many of us can relate to)

    2) finishing off the fender. IMVHO, the guards (particularly the form fitting oem ones) finish the lines of the rear of the fender and thus are a cosmetic preference. Plus, they do cover the pre-drilled holes on the panels so without them it's like something's missing (?)

    The prices mentioned are indeed more reasonable (yes, what is the deal with dealer's prices anyway?)

    Here's a simple test to determine flap effectiveness: on a clear, dry day, install on one side of the car only (front and rear), find a road or parking lot recently paved, drive through at about 15-25 mph, then examine each side. My guess is that the side without the guards will consume a majority of a can of tar remover than the side w/o the guards!

    - did the ones you have look like the oem ones? I can't imagine they looked that bad.

    ZoomooZ
    Dave
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    ahhh.... so those ARE cold air intakes, just another reason for me to get the K & N air filters to maximize my engine's sucking in those cold air!

    that shall be my next mod, but probably won't do it til I need to replace the original filter.

    H

    p.s. i really like the flags, looks cool!
  • unmarkedcarunmarkedcar Member Posts: 162
    HOW DO I CHANGE MY FLAG?
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    look at the top of the page and see the link for My Profile .. change the country you are from there.. At least I think that's it..

    I put USA in there and after I left here and came back, the flag worked.. let's see if my new flag appears now..
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