Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Well, not at the 10 and 2, but near it. I always used to hold onto the upper spokes of the steering wheel when I drove both my Proteges. Never any problems blowing the horn. In my current car, I have trouble hitting the radio controls when trying to blow the horn the same way.
Some argue it's safer to keep the hands on the wheel while changing channels etc. I say if you need to turn the wheel, you shoudn't be messing with radio/stereo/whatever controls at the same time. And those controls wouldn't be so difficult to use off-wheel if they'd make them larger, fewer, differentiated and less stylized so they'd be easy to use w/o having to study them for a couple seconds to use them each time. That's why I can't even stand to look at the interior of a new BMW or VW. So many look-alike, feel-alike buttons.
For your portable MP3 player, I think you're looking for an input jack on the face of the head unit. For connecting a portable, you'll need an adapter cable that has a 1/8in stereo jack at one end and two RCA-type plugs at the other end. Your player will need a line-out jack, or you just turn the volume all the way up on the headphone jack.
So there. Have fun with your radio talk here. I think I'll go back to the photos discussion and ask who likes chicken salad instead of tuna fish for lunch.
Guilty Meade
end of story.
Seriously though, engines actually seem to like linear airflow to reduce resistance. That is why they use mandrel bends on cold air intakes. Swirling the air around seems counter productive to me.
Now I think I'm getting 90 mpg and an added 20-30 whp!!
Sorry...couldn't resist. The infomercial makes this thing seem incredible. Notice how they say that you'll get gains of up to XX hp (or whatever). Right...from 0-XX...so you could get 0 gains. Try doing a search on the 'net. General consensus is a hoax, as the_big_h has said.
Since no instructions were included, I gathered a bunch of pictures (including some of a P5's engine bay take at an obliging local dealer) before I got started. I also took a few "before" pictures in case I screwed up.
One thing: the '99-00 engine bay is a little different, so a couple of screws are located differently than in the 01-02s, for which this thing is designed. The major effects: you have to move the battery cable slightly, and I ended up using the "tongue" bracket in a rather red-necked fashion to hold down the cruise control bracket (check the pics I'll be posting on the Yahoo! site). Also, the bar comes rather close to a part on the engine, which I hope will not be a problem (also have a pic of this). What type of tape would you recommend for cushioning here? Or would it be OK to grind away the metal on the engine here to avoid cracking it later?
Anyhow, it really feels solid in the corners now. I was able to easily keep up with a Camaro (and beat a BMW 3-series sedan, who gave up mid-way through) in some tight turns yesterday. The Camaro driver didn't appreciate it, since he blasted off in the first straight section of road we came to.
It feels like my Pro also coasts longer. Maybe less inertia lost to heat in front-end deflection?
Anyway, if I can do it, so can you. You'll just need the following tools: #1 Philips head screwdriver, 10, 14 and 17mm 6-sided sockets and a socket wrench. One thing to watch for: on removing the little sensor attached to the cruise control bracket (passenger side tower), slide it sideways off the metal bracket after you pry up the little snap finger. I broke mine (oops) when trying to pull it off in the wrong direction. I'll have to keep an eye on this, maybe put on a cable tie.
What I did to fix the problem was to buy some thick metal washers to place at the four mounting points on the brackets. It raises the bar about 1.5mm and is enough to clear the throttle body. Before I did this, the engine would rattle against the bar and make a really awful noise.
Here's what mine looked like before:
I thought about the washer trick, but wasn't sure if the bar would stay in place; thanks for the tip.
Also, did you use regular flat washers or lock washers? As a short-term fix, I've wrapped some electrical tape around the bar at the "pinch" point. Definitely not a long-term fix though.
I guess whoever designed the bar didn't think we 1.6L owners would want to upgrade our Pros.
But wow, what a difference in the turns! It's like falling in love all over again.
Perhaps I'll also try the metal washer trick. This wouldn't end up affecting the handling characteristics though, would it? Also, I have negligible clearance above the strut tower brace with the hood itself, so I wouldn't want to exchange one rattle (with engine below) with another (with hood above)! I agree, Mazda probably never anticipated that owners of the 'weak'-er engined Proteges would want to make mods as well, however minor!
I guess it's a bit after the fact for some, eh? Sorry.
Don't mind me, I'm not exactly the person to ask for home hardware advice.
As far as it affecting the effectiveness of the tower bar - I don't think so. As long they are not rubber and it's on there pretty snug I don't see what's to lose.
Just my two cents chiming in..
Hella Optilux 1000
Hella Optilux 1200
Hella Optilux 1450
I used Photoshop to add them to my car to try them out. Just want some comments as to which one YOU think looks best. They are on sale at performanceproducts.com and I've heard Hella lights are very good quality.
thanks for any comments
I will also be installing a B&M shifter as well. I will let you know how they turn out.
I am so excited!!
Bruce
Also, anyone heard anything about the turbo charger they are going to offer (true?) and what type of HP improvement are we looking at?
Mike
If enough of you 2.0l owners make a noise about it, perhaps Mazda'll change their minds!
Stupid IMO, as they should be selling these out the back door with no warranty at least.
I apologize for the mis-information.
Then your only choice is to buy an MSP.
Then again, you'd be able to choose from some better colors.
Besides, the wife won't notice it bit by bit as much as if the cost were all up front. ;-)
And at this price point, most can't afford a car with better performance so they buy trinkets and try to piecemeal it into a performer as their paychecks allow.
I was a teenager once too...
And people with lotsa time on their hands usually have a comfortable job with not-a-lotsa money on their hand. And an idle mind is a devils workshop and he keeps on toying with the idea of making a devil of a car out of his fairy car.
again, the exception rule applies such as People who have inherited lotsa money or striked it rich in the boom era.
Sure some of it may look/seem excessive, but to upgrade a base Pro to anything near that level (even if you only concentrate on performance) would be WAY more expensive and very time-consuming!
(Yes, I know what you mean/were implying, just picking on you there!)
B&M Shifter: Very nice. I love the short throw and directness of the shifter. I had installed the KartBoy bushing earlier and was amazed with the feel just changing the bushing. Now with the shifter change the shift is just like it was directly into the tranny. I was worried that the shift knob might be too low but it is fine. The shifts are smooth with no balkiness. Effort is a little higher but not much.
Raing Beat: The exhaust looks great. Fits the cutout in the rear bumber perfectly. There were no issues with the install. Fit and finish were great. The sound is a nice low growl, not buzzy like some of the Honda's I hear. You can hear the exhaust inside the car but it is a nice background noise, not intrusive. Took it up to 100 mph, and did not notice any droning like I have heard about the mazdaspeed. Too bad winter is coming, I like driving with the window down!
Bruce
Unfortunately, Mazda went with pretty sknny wheels on those (16x6.0 instead of the more common 16x6.5 or 16x7.0). If you have the 15 inch stock mazda wheels on an older ES/LX, then that is a little thin as well - 15x6.0 instead of the more common 15x6.5
When you look at tires, make sure you refer to the manufacturer's website as well, and see what range of widths a given tire can handle - most manufacturer websites will list that. I imagine you can go with 205 width tires on the 16, but check for yourself, or find out a 'other' places, like protegeclub.com
But I have 205/55 and Jerry had 215 with no problems whatsoever on our '99ES
i would suggest that if you go wider, make sure the tire has excellent hydroplane resistance, since wider rubber is more apt to float on water.