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Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications

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Comments

  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    If you have your hands on the 10 and 2-oclock positions on the wheel, you can lean your hand over the edge of the wheel from the sides and blow the horn with a little pressure.

    Well, not at the 10 and 2, but near it. I always used to hold onto the upper spokes of the steering wheel when I drove both my Proteges. Never any problems blowing the horn. In my current car, I have trouble hitting the radio controls when trying to blow the horn the same way.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Kind of gets in the way of actually steering the car w/o accidentally setting something off.

    Some argue it's safer to keep the hands on the wheel while changing channels etc. I say if you need to turn the wheel, you shoudn't be messing with radio/stereo/whatever controls at the same time. And those controls wouldn't be so difficult to use off-wheel if they'd make them larger, fewer, differentiated and less stylized so they'd be easy to use w/o having to study them for a couple seconds to use them each time. That's why I can't even stand to look at the interior of a new BMW or VW. So many look-alike, feel-alike buttons.
  • jwculbertjwculbert Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm a new P5 owner and love my car. I am not a mechanic or very inclined, but I would like to add some horsepower and torque to my car within reason. I have no desire to race or go the whole route, I just want to juice it up a little while maintaining the warranty coverage. Can anyone suggest some good steps or websites that will help me get started? Thanks.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    W/o changing the ECM, you basically open up the air intake and the exhaust to allow the engine to breathe more easily. Some have noted a drop in mpg after doing this, but the engine revs up faster. However, hp and torque gains are modest. Others have grafted on turbos or even swapped out the entire engine with a Japan-spec turbo version for a bigger hit.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    To continue the discussion on the after market head units with AUX in, a couple of people had recommended Pioneer and Aiwa. Someone also mentioned the FM Transmitter. All of the reviews I have read about the FM transmitters have been less than complimentary. I would prefer a direct line in. I noticed in the Crutchfield catalog last night that most of the $200+ CD Receivers have an "optional" AUX input regardless of price. Does anyone know what optional means? Would I have to buy some sort of accessory?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    That's for connecting a second sound source, like a CD-changer or tape drive.

    For your portable MP3 player, I think you're looking for an input jack on the face of the head unit. For connecting a portable, you'll need an adapter cable that has a 1/8in stereo jack at one end and two RCA-type plugs at the other end. Your player will need a line-out jack, or you just turn the volume all the way up on the headphone jack.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Since you're so serious about my "bringing up" the subject over in the photos discussion, please keep in mind that the form my "bringing up" took was in asking a person if they preferred PLL-tuned car stereos over analog units, and jokingly at that. And my post was in response to an off-topic post -- just as you are guilty of having taken my response to an off-topic post and perpetrated it into a discussion about head unit replacements and MP3s. Note I did not contribute to your ongoing, off-topic discussion.

    So there. Have fun with your radio talk here. I think I'll go back to the photos discussion and ask who likes chicken salad instead of tuna fish for lunch.

    Guilty Meade
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    Well, I am thinking about what I want to get myself for Christmas since I have my Birthday taken care of (iPod). I think I would like to get a cat-back exhaust system next. It looks like there are 2 I should be considering, one from Borla and one from Racing Beat. I do not want the exhaust to be overly loud, but would like to see a bump in HP/Torque. If anyone has any opinions, I would appreciate them.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    someone at protegeclub.com installed them, and they look AWESOME.
  • jwculbertjwculbert Member Posts: 5
    Does anybody know whether these vortex generators (Turbonator is one being advertised) that install in the air intake line (after filter)actually work or do any good?
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    is nothing but a hoax.

    end of story.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    Hey, it has a 30 day money back guarantee. What's to lose?

    Seriously though, engines actually seem to like linear airflow to reduce resistance. That is why they use mandrel bends on cold air intakes. Swirling the air around seems counter productive to me.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    It can't be true! I bought two of those things and installed them in series!! Fitting the pipe back over the 2nd one was tough, but I used some duct tape and it sealed well...I think!

    Now I think I'm getting 90 mpg and an added 20-30 whp!!

    Sorry...couldn't resist. The infomercial makes this thing seem incredible. Notice how they say that you'll get gains of up to XX hp (or whatever). Right...from 0-XX...so you could get 0 gains. Try doing a search on the 'net. General consensus is a hoax, as the_big_h has said.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Think about it. If a cheap piece of plastic made your engine THAT much more efficient (more hp and mpg), Mazda (and every other manufacturer) would have incorporated it into the design of their cars.
  • jwculbertjwculbert Member Posts: 5
    Thanks. I think you guys nailed it.
  • reitrofreitrof Member Posts: 122
    Installed the kartboy bushings last night in my P5 and was impressed with the better feel in the shifter. Easier to line up the shifts and it feels notchier, more like a regular rwd tranny. Took some of the play out of the shifter. Defintely worth the 25 bucks.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Took about an hour, but it feels well worth the effort.

    Since no instructions were included, I gathered a bunch of pictures (including some of a P5's engine bay take at an obliging local dealer) before I got started. I also took a few "before" pictures in case I screwed up.

    One thing: the '99-00 engine bay is a little different, so a couple of screws are located differently than in the 01-02s, for which this thing is designed. The major effects: you have to move the battery cable slightly, and I ended up using the "tongue" bracket in a rather red-necked fashion to hold down the cruise control bracket (check the pics I'll be posting on the Yahoo! site). Also, the bar comes rather close to a part on the engine, which I hope will not be a problem (also have a pic of this). What type of tape would you recommend for cushioning here? Or would it be OK to grind away the metal on the engine here to avoid cracking it later?

    Anyhow, it really feels solid in the corners now. I was able to easily keep up with a Camaro (and beat a BMW 3-series sedan, who gave up mid-way through) in some tight turns yesterday. The Camaro driver didn't appreciate it, since he blasted off in the first straight section of road we came to. :)

    It feels like my Pro also coasts longer. Maybe less inertia lost to heat in front-end deflection?

    Anyway, if I can do it, so can you. You'll just need the following tools: #1 Philips head screwdriver, 10, 14 and 17mm 6-sided sockets and a socket wrench. One thing to watch for: on removing the little sensor attached to the cruise control bracket (passenger side tower), slide it sideways off the metal bracket after you pry up the little snap finger. I broke mine (oops) when trying to pull it off in the wrong direction. I'll have to keep an eye on this, maybe put on a cable tie.
  • theparallaxtheparallax Member Posts: 361
    Do you have the 1.6 liter engine? I have a 99 LX w/ the 1.6 and did the strut tower bar install also. The throttle body comes really close to the bar because the tower bar was designed for Protege's w/ the 2.0 engine.


    What I did to fix the problem was to buy some thick metal washers to place at the four mounting points on the brackets. It raises the bar about 1.5mm and is enough to clear the throttle body. Before I did this, the engine would rattle against the bar and make a really awful noise.


    Here's what mine looked like before:

    image

  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Although it looks like you've bumped up your air intake. ;)

    I thought about the washer trick, but wasn't sure if the bar would stay in place; thanks for the tip. :)

    Also, did you use regular flat washers or lock washers? As a short-term fix, I've wrapped some electrical tape around the bar at the "pinch" point. Definitely not a long-term fix though.

    I guess whoever designed the bar didn't think we 1.6L owners would want to upgrade our Pros. :(

    But wow, what a difference in the turns! It's like falling in love all over again. :)
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    My strut tower brace also edges up against the top of that part of the engine. It makes intermittent contact at stationary idle, but doesn't touch it at all when I get underway (anything over 1mph, forward or backward!). So, for now, I haven't done anything about it - I did put in some adhesive athletic tape (the porous type used for wrists/ankles/elbows etc) but it unravelled so much within a day or two, that I took it off rather than let it fall into the engine compartment.

    Perhaps I'll also try the metal washer trick. This wouldn't end up affecting the handling characteristics though, would it? Also, I have negligible clearance above the strut tower brace with the hood itself, so I wouldn't want to exchange one rattle (with engine below) with another (with hood above)! I agree, Mazda probably never anticipated that owners of the 'weak'-er engined Proteges would want to make mods as well, however minor!
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Someone here sent me a pdf file of install instructions for 02 using the Mazda Pro Performance strut bar. If anyone needs it, if I can find it, I will email it to you.

    I guess it's a bit after the fact for some, eh? Sorry.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
  • theparallaxtheparallax Member Posts: 361
    I'm assuming they are flat washers. Flat washers mean they are flat with no ridges right?

    Don't mind me, I'm not exactly the person to ask for home hardware advice. :)

    As far as it affecting the effectiveness of the tower bar - I don't think so. As long they are not rubber and it's on there pretty snug I don't see what's to lose.

    Just my two cents chiming in..
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    need some opinions on which set of Hella Optilux series compact fog lights I should get for my Protege, here are the options I've come down to:

    image
    Hella Optilux 1000

    image
    Hella Optilux 1200

    image
    Hella Optilux 1450

    I used Photoshop to add them to my car to try them out. Just want some comments as to which one YOU think looks best. They are on sale at performanceproducts.com and I've heard Hella lights are very good quality.

    thanks for any comments
  • reitrofreitrof Member Posts: 122
    My exhaust is finally in. It should arrive mid week and will be installing it next weekend.

    I will also be installing a B&M shifter as well. I will let you know how they turn out.

    I am so excited!!

    Bruce
  • dj_eazydj_eazy Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know where I can get these other than dealer...can't seem to find them.

    Also, anyone heard anything about the turbo charger they are going to offer (true?) and what type of HP improvement are we looking at?

    Mike
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Look no further than the MazdaSpeed Protege. MazdaSpeed will offer that for existing 2.0s. 170 hp, 0-60 in about 6.9 seconds.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    In an effort to retain exclusivity (?) for the MazdaSpeed Proteges, and to skirt warranty issues etc Mazda has decided not to currently offer at least the manifolds (right?) unless you provide and confirm that it is a replacement part for a Mazdaspeed protege, and mail the old/damaged part back to them.

    If enough of you 2.0l owners make a noise about it, perhaps Mazda'll change their minds!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    No exhaust manifolds unless the dealer needs to replace one on a valid vehicle.

    Stupid IMO, as they should be selling these out the back door with no warranty at least.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    exclusivity for MSPs at least for 6-10 months. Then it will be for all. My marketing mind tells me that.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    I agree. Stupid choice. Maybe someone will sell them out the back door anyway.

    I apologize for the mis-information.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    i guess great minds think alike chikoo ;-)
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    ... you want that exclusive Halloween Orange color (!), that no one else can have, even when (not if?) turbo upgrades are made available in a few months.

    Then your only choice is to buy an MSP.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    If you don't already own a Pro, it would be more cost effective to buy an MS Pro than buying a "run of the mill" Pro and upgrading part by part, even if you left a number of the MS Pro's upgrades off - like that ridiculous stereo.

    Then again, you'd be able to choose from some better colors.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    car buffs like to build their own car piece by peice rather than going to the market and buying the end product. That is the real market. And mazda will sooner or later cater to that.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    But I too hope they will cater to that. Having more options is good, especially for those of us who already own a 2.0 Pro, want more power, and don't want to take a big hit on depreciation.

    Besides, the wife won't notice it bit by bit as much as if the cost were all up front. ;-)
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    not always...

    And at this price point, most can't afford a car with better performance so they buy trinkets and try to piecemeal it into a performer as their paychecks allow.

    I was a teenager once too...
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    most people with lostsa money don't have time to work on their own cars(see exception rule). So they can buy the direct product straight away.

    And people with lotsa time on their hands usually have a comfortable job with not-a-lotsa money on their hand. And an idle mind is a devils workshop and he keeps on toying with the idea of making a devil of a car out of his fairy car.

    again, the exception rule applies such as People who have inherited lotsa money or striked it rich in the boom era.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    While it is fascinating, and rewarding to upgrade the car's performance yourself, it makes more sense to buy a stock vehicle with all those mods built in and warrantied by the manufacturer. There are so many little things that have gone into the MP3/MSP - suspension, manifolds, turbo itself, different exhaust/intake (I think), LSD (now that has got to be difficult to add on!), stronger transmission/clutch, interior upgrades - steering wheel, shifter, seats, exterior - wheels/tires, body kits, spoiler etc etc.

    Sure some of it may look/seem excessive, but to upgrade a base Pro to anything near that level (even if you only concentrate on performance) would be WAY more expensive and very time-consuming!
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    Blasphemy!
    (Yes, I know what you mean/were implying, just picking on you there!)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
  • reitrofreitrof Member Posts: 122
    Does anybody know if the MSP engine is the same 2.0l or does it have a re-enforced bottom end or valve train to handle the turbo?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    the bottom pan, i believe is reinforced.
  • reitrofreitrof Member Posts: 122
    Spent about 3 hours installing both of the above. No problems, everything went pretty smooth. Here are my comments:

    B&M Shifter: Very nice. I love the short throw and directness of the shifter. I had installed the KartBoy bushing earlier and was amazed with the feel just changing the bushing. Now with the shifter change the shift is just like it was directly into the tranny. I was worried that the shift knob might be too low but it is fine. The shifts are smooth with no balkiness. Effort is a little higher but not much.

    Raing Beat: The exhaust looks great. Fits the cutout in the rear bumber perfectly. There were no issues with the install. Fit and finish were great. The sound is a nice low growl, not buzzy like some of the Honda's I hear. You can hear the exhaust inside the car but it is a nice background noise, not intrusive. Took it up to 100 mph, and did not notice any droning like I have heard about the mazdaspeed. Too bad winter is coming, I like driving with the window down!

    Bruce
  • noeleonnoeleon Member Posts: 9
    I am thinking of installing 215/45/17 or just replacing the stock tires with 205/50/16. How wide do you think I can go with the stock rims?
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    The 5 lug 16 inch wheels on the 2001 onwards P5 or Pro ES, I assume (?)

    Unfortunately, Mazda went with pretty sknny wheels on those (16x6.0 instead of the more common 16x6.5 or 16x7.0). If you have the 15 inch stock mazda wheels on an older ES/LX, then that is a little thin as well - 15x6.0 instead of the more common 15x6.5

    When you look at tires, make sure you refer to the manufacturer's website as well, and see what range of widths a given tire can handle - most manufacturer websites will list that. I imagine you can go with 205 width tires on the 16, but check for yourself, or find out a 'other' places, like protegeclub.com
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    TireRack told me not to go wider than 195 on the stock 16" rims. You can probably do it, but it would definitely affect handling and potentially affect fuel economy.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    both say NO for anything greater than 195.

    But I have 205/55 and Jerry had 215 with no problems whatsoever on our '99ES
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    This is on an 02 ES - thinking of putting in mp3 shocks, struts, stabilizer bars, springs. Only thing is, the front stabilizer bar is wedged in by the sub-frame. It looks like a real pain to get the old one out and a new one in. Anybody have any experience with this?
  • tomcivilettitomciviletti Member Posts: 207
    The salesrep I talked with [Lee @ ext. 238, she's good] said tirerack suggested the original 195/55-15 or 205/50-15 for my '99 es. she admitted that their recommendations are conservative, and that other sizes may fit. I've had no problem with the 205/55-15 s-03 pole positions, though I haven't tried to use tire chains yet.

    i would suggest that if you go wider, make sure the tire has excellent hydroplane resistance, since wider rubber is more apt to float on water.
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