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Chevrolet Impala Accessories & Modifications
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Comments
grvdiggaz: You should be able to. I say should, because someone told me they did, but since I have not done it myself or seen the subject car, I can't say that it WILL work. I don't know what the part number is, but it will be pretty expensive if you try and buy it new. I recommend that you try junk yards or stuff. Your odometer will be incorrect, though. Your dealer should be able to reprogram the gauges.
I wanted to do some testing between the stock and Thrasher unit. Is there any difference, or does it just look cool. By the way, it does look really cool.
Here are some things I was thinking of:
Underhood temp
Airbox temp
Outside temp
Vacuum within air duct with stock box and with Thrasher.
Gas mileage.
HP.
1/4 mile time and speed.
Any other recommendations? The problem is that I am working with a stock air filter with 28,000 miles on it. I really don't want to purchase a new filter just to do this test since I would never use it ever again. So for almost everything except for temperature, I would be comparing a dirty factory filter to a clean Thrasher one. HP and 1/4 mile numbers will have to wait until I get a performance meter or get to the track. I would like to get the three temperature readings at the same time, but that requires three thermometers. Again, hard to justify that purchase just for this one use. I think I can get a vacuum meter. I have to see how much a new air filter costs.
http://www.impalahq.com
And not to single out Thrasher, but the numbers they quote on their site are slanted to promote sales. For instance, the "extensive thermocouple datalogging" they did to optimize the system which they provided (somewhere, but not in my package) supposedly shows the intake temp is around 70 degrees F lower than a typical underhood open air element would take in.
Based on my thermocouple testing (Radio Shack $10 thermometer)underhood temp of an Impala running 55 MPH on the freeway, with the A/C going and an outside air temp of 86 degrees is around 124 degrees F. Temp of the air in the airduct utilizing the stock airbox is 106 degrees F.
You are right, I'm just doing it for my own satisfaction. Trying to justify my purchase.
With the new rocker arms, will you be able to maintain the correct geometry?
Also what Dual exhu kits are people using and again where can i get it Thanks a lot!
Most people are getting the Borla kit but it might be cheaper to get a local exhaust shop to make you a set.
Go to http://www.impalahq.com and visit the Accessories page for sources.
I got the PCM tray to screw into it fine. It wasn't real tight or anything, but it can't come off unless I loosen the screw about 7 turns. It's fine in there anyway. It's not going anywhere! Any other questions just ask
Also did you get bigger wheels 18 19 20inch?
And speaking of big rims I was looking at the rear wheel on my 00 base model and the lower control arm? (i think its the LCA) is almost Hitting the tire with stock rims and tires on the car and if I go with 20s with a 35series tire it will be about .6inches bigger overall diameter will that be a prob?
Thanks in advance!
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/accessories/pdf/Impala_2002.pdf is a direct link.
Mudflaps: Very easy to install. I have a black 2002 LS, so I didn't paint the flaps. I did, however, go ahead and put a few layers of clearcoat on them. This made them much darker and they matched the paint, almost. Very nice looking. Large speedbumps may be a concern, as they do stick below the car quite a bit. Drilling holes into your car seems kinda wrong at first, but it works well and easy. Just make sure you do use the right sized drill bits that it says to use, those screws won't fit right otherwise. And do make sure to use the wax coated screws in the right place (very top hole), as the wax will prevent water from leaking into the top hole. Also, you'll need a jack to lift the car enough to get under and drill the bottom holes.
License cover: Sprayed several coats of clearcoat on it. Very nice looking when all is said and done. Being as it went on the 2002, I cut off the tabs where it would fit into on the 2003. Just snipped them off and sanded that part flat, leaving me with three nice flat spots to put the tape on. Stuck some 3M double sided auto tape on there, same as the existing tape on the bottom, and it works like a champ. Doesn't appear to be in any danger of coming off. Probably would be a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to remove, in fact, so I'd recommend getting it on right the first time. Again, the clearcoat darkens it up, and if you have a black car, it's *exactly* the same color after applying the clearcoat for about 3 layers.
When I say "logo" I meant the word "Impala" in that script text. Not the deer thingy. And yes, it's molded in.
"What are you planning on modifying?"
Let's see..
As of now: Custom Fenderwell Intake w/ 9" cone filter, Borla Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust, 180 degree thermostat, BMR Sway Bars. (I assume I'm at about 210HP now give or take)
By end of the year: Stage 2 P/P High Velocity Throttle Body, Extended Range High Ratio Rocker Arms, INTENSE Pushrods, Ported Upper Intake Manifold, Upgraded PCM with many features. (I would say I'd be at around 250HP)
Soon: 3" Downpipe, Highflow Catalytic Converter and ubend replacement, Ported Exhaust Manifolds or Headers (maybe 260 HP)
Maybe in the future: Centrifugal Supercharger!!!! (approaching 400HP), GM Performance Springs and Struts (NEW!)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874704406
100 bucks!
1) Borla - I had one on my old car and I really liked it but it was a bit too loud. How loud is their system for the Impala and how much did it cost?
2) Thermostat - what will this do?
3) Intake - Your FWI sounds good but I just don't know... I am going to consider it and thanks for the instructions! Now about the Thrasher - Do you think that it is a TOTAL waste of money based on your experience? And what does everyone else think?
4) How is your MPG with your current mods?
5) Throttle Body - Where can I get more details on this ?
6) 3" Downpipe, Highflow Catalytic Converter and ubend replacement - Can you elaborate on these items. What is the "ubend"? What is the "downpipe"? Is the CAT street legal?
7) Header - Is this a street legal header?
Sorry for all of the questions. Those are the mods that I may be interested in for the future. I'm going to try and save up enough money for the exaust and intake by this summer so I am just planning way in advance I guess. Thanks!!!
2) The thermostat opens the flow of coolant through the engine at a certain temperature. The stock thermo is 195 degrees. You can get 180 and 160 degree for our cars. The 160 is not good for our engine. The 180 is great! It keeps your engine a little cooler, and cooler mean more power! You won't feel anymore power, but you will feel your peak power for a longer period of time! They are only about $10.00.
3) On the FWI-- You can do it! Don't feel intimidated. It'll probably take one full afternoon, but it will be worth it!
If you really really don't want to do it, then I suggest you WAIT for a little while and get the ZZP Cold Air Intake when it comes out. It will be MUCH MUCH better than the Thrasher CAI. I had the Thrasher, and it was not very good at all, and it was not durable. It was falling apart (it's held together with glue!). Also, it did not work as well as I would have hoped. Go to www.ZZPerformance.com and check out their products. They are about to update their site soon. The ZZP CAI should be out soon as well. I might even upgrade to the ZZP CAI if it works half as good as they are claiming!
4) My MPG is great! I get about 27-28 MPG going about 78 MPH or so. No drop in MPG with mods.
5) For Throttle Body etc I suggest you go to these sites: www.ZZPerformance.com, www.INTENSE-Racing.com, www.3800Performance.com. Those are our main parts suppliers. For general information and ALL THE KNOW HOW YOU COULD WANT go to www.ClubGP.com. You can find out anything there. Go to the message board, and use the Seach feature. It will help you out! Also, you can email ZZP or INTENSE and they will help you too!
6) Our cars have a 2.5" downpipe from the exhaust manifolds, down to the stock cat, then through a ubend. Now this isn't too bad (except for the ubend), but it could be better. Changing the downpipe from 2.5 to 3" obviously helps flow. The highflow cat also helps flow, and is emissions legal. The ubend replacement can be bought seperately, or as part of the downpipe/cat/ubend combo (they are sold together usually). The ubend is exactly that, a U bend in the piping that really restricts flow. It's good to get rid of that!
7) Headers don't really have any impact on whether something is legal or not. Headers are NOT needed for us. The only way I'd get headers is if I Supercharged my car. We just don't flow enough air to warrant the price of headers. We will have 3 different choices on headers soon: TOG, S&S and SLP will be making headers for our cars. SLP's should be out in February, and is looking like the best bet for us. Again, Headers are not needed unless you are HEAVILY modded.
ECT) You really don't need to mod your car at all unless you are gonna mod a good bit. Intake and Exhaust is good if you have future plans, but it won't give you a big gain by itself (nothing noticable). You might see a little gain on the highway, but it's not cost effective. But if you want to do it, and have other plans, you can't go wrong with the ZZP CAI and the Borla Exhaust. The Borla Exhaust is TOP NOTCH, but you will need to get a muffler shop to weld the drivers side rear hangar on, since we don't have dual exhaust originally. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS!! GOOD LUCK!
Drew
I'll be waiting until this summer anyway or maybe even next summer so when the ZZP CAI comes out I'll be looking into it. I'll stay away from the Thrasher for sure.
I'm definately going to do some light modding in a year or two as long as the bank account (and wife) lets me.
Intake, Borla exaust, TB, thermostat, and the downpipe / CAT combo sound like a good way to go for me. If it amounts to like 20 more "usable" HP and more tourqe then I'll be happy like a pig in sh*t.
Noob question: What are rocker arms?
What do you think this item for the tranny:
(found it on www.pfyc.com)
AutoTrans Interceptor Electronic Modulator is a permanent adapter plugged into the existing wiring harness with adjustable microprocessors.
Increase transmission line pressure reducing burnt clutches & bands
Eliminates the need to install complicated valve body kits
Compatible with specific computer controlled transmission applications
Tighten up those shifts and put a little snap in your driving
Easy, plug in installation
The AutoTrans Interceptor cleans up the vehicle's signal, while improving shift quality and increasing vehicle performance. Fine tune your transmission!
Rocker Arms are the little arms that connect to the camshaft inside the engine right underneath the valvecover. What they do is create the effective duration of the valve lift, letting the air in and out of the cylinders. The higher the ratio, the more air being moved by the cam. ZZP makes some good High Ratio Rocker Arms for our engine. High Ratio Rocker Arms will give you about 15-20 HP by themselves.
The AutoTransInterceptor has had mostly negative reviews. I would stay away from it if I were you. If you want those features, plus many more, I would suggest a DHP PCM. DHP (Digital Horsepower Performance) is a company that reprograms our cars computers (PCMs) with higher performance features, while still maintaining full driveability and comfort features. Go to www.3800Performance.com to read about it. It's THE BEST reprogrammed PCM for our engines. Good Stuff! The one for the Impala should be out in a few months. I will get one as soon as they are out!
I'll stay away from the autotransint.
What do you think about having the muffler removed in favor of a higher flowing resonator just for sound?
The stock exaust should be good enough once the ubend is removed yes?
I know the full setup is best but I'm trying to get the most HP for my money:
My Stage 1:
Thermostat $12
ZZP CAI $220 ???
HV stage1 TB $180
My Stage 2:
ubend replacment $65
replace muffler?? $100
rocker arms $300
Hmm that comes out to around $900 bucks. I'll have to get everything in part 2 installed at a shop so I'll have to see how much that will cost but all in all that's not too bad.
What do y'all think?
You don't need to have any of these things installed in a shop. They are all simple bolt ons that you can do yourself very easily. I put everything I have on myself, and all I have are simple tools.
I'm not sure what you're looking for so I can't really give you a "Stage 1-Stage 2" model to follow, but if all you are doing is what you posted I'd do it this way:
Stage 1:
Thermostat
ZZP CAI
Ubend replacement
Stage 2:
Rocker Arms
Throttle Body
What you might want to look into is the ZZP Stage 1 Performance Package (about $500). That will give you most of what you're looking for, for a good price. I'm personally getting the Stage 2 Performance Package, which is much more radical, and gives more performance (but it costs over $1000!).
I think my best path is to wait until the spring and go for the ZZP CAI assuming its available and the Ubend replacement. I thought the ubend replacement had to be welded into place?
Then my next step when I have the cash is the ZZP stage 1 performance package kit. Not a bad price at all for all that you get but what is the fan switch and do the UDP's really make a difference?
Thanks again for all your great advice. I've been over at clubgp and its a good site but we need an Impala section over there...
Yes, the ubend will have to be welded to the cat, but if you get the downpipe/cat/ubend all together, it's just a bolt on. Take the old one off, put the new one on.
The fan switch is to have control of your cooling fans (you don't really need that). The UD Pullies take away some of the parasitic loss that the accessories pull from the motor. Those don't really do much either. Your choice whether you want those things. I'm not getting them.
Please remember, the Grand Prix GT and the Impala are basically the EXACT same car. It has the same engine and transmission, and they are both W-Bodies. The Impala has a little stronger frame, and of course the PCMs are different. Other than that, pretty much everything that will work on a Grand Prix GT will work on an Impala. So, ClubGP is an excellent source of info for us!
I think my best path is to wait until the spring and go for the ZZP CAI assuming its available and the Ubend replacement. I thought the ubend replacement had to be welded into place?
Then my next step when I have the cash is the ZZP stage 1 performance package kit. Not a bad price at all for all that you get but what is the fan switch and do the UDP's really make a difference?
Thanks again for all your great advice. I've been over at clubgp and its a good site but we need an Impala section over there...
If anyone is more daring than me, then here's how you do it:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Pull off the Junction Block Underhood on the right side of the engine compartment. It looks held in by two bolts and is right behind the right headlamp. Crack it open. Look for a light green and black wire (striped, probably) hooked to a spot labeled D3. Cut it or disconnect it in whatever fashion. Make sure to seal it up real good with electrical tape and so on so you don't short anything later by accident. Heck, put a switch on it if you like (one that can handle 12 Volts and possibly up to 15 Amps) and mount it somewhere handy. Close it all back up and put it back together. Reconnect the battery. Start 'er up. Your DRL's should now be disabled (I think).
I'm going to try this next week when I'm on xmas vacation and take some pictures. But if anyone wants to try it before me, if you've got the guts ;-), then go for it. But you're on your own, I hold no responsibility for you breaking your car, etc. Still, I think it'll work.
And a big thank you from those of us who are trying to see you in adverse conditions.
But believe me, if I want you to see me, then you'll see me. What I don't want is to run my spiffy brighter headlights at low power all the friggin' time.
And yes, frankly, I find the DRL's to be extremely annoying, on both my and other cars. They don't improve visibility and they don't improve safety (reference any study you care to look up). Why do we have them again?