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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • keygokeygo Member Posts: 38
    It only ended up costing $35 plus the bulb. Is this a doable job? The owners manual says to take it to the dealership because it requires special tools. In the realm of things, I guess $35 to get a headlight bulb changed is not the end of the world but it sure was a surprise to me.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You paid a mechanic to replace your headlight bulb and complain that $35 for a 1/2hour of their time is a surprise to you? In the real world - It is not uncommon for a dealerships labor-rate to be $70/hour.... that is EXACTLY what you paid.

    By the time the dealership takes their cut from that... the guy that worked on your car takes home somewaht less than the $35 you paid. He has a family to feed and bills to pay just like the rest of us.

    Personally - I purchase a replacement bulb at wallymart and replace it myself in the wallymart parking-lot. I also replace my own oil, brakes and do most other repairs. I cannot afford the $70/hour for those tasks.
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Member Posts: 30
    I am in a big dispute with our after market oil quick change store. I developed an oil leak and took it to our Car shop in Brighton Mi. Perfect Tune, (good place). They told me the leak was coming from the filter. I told them to replace as it was getting close to an oil change any way. When they removed the oil pan drain plug it was way over torque and difficult to remove. It bvacked out and pulled oil pan threads with it. They tried to over size it and use a bigger plug but the boss on the pan is almost flush with the inside of the pan structure. They had to replace the pan (435.00). I called the VW dealer and they said their standard repair process was to replace the pan. Does anyone have any expirence with oversized the drain plug hole???? Thanks......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It seems to me you learned some lessons

    1) never EVER use one of those quikie-change places.
    2) The aluminum oil-pan is very expensive to replace.

    commentary:
    Most of the people that do the work in those quikie-change places were not able to get a job as a real mechanic. Any money you think you are saving is a net long-term loss. They often use the wrong oil, and can really mess-up your car.

    Most cars use a steel oil-pan. Steel is much tougher than aluminium and can stand to be over-torqued. It also accepts oversized threads better. The aluminium oil-pan is more expensive to manufacture than steel. It is lighter and helps cool the oil. However, it is very thin and easilly damaged. (either by over-torqing or getting busted from road-debris)
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    never EVER use one of those quikie-change places.

    Not unless you like the increased chance of things being done wrong and want to try and be sold a bunch of stuff that you don't really need. ;)
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Member Posts: 30
    :sick: Thanks for the answer. I am retired and do not do any of my own work due to health reasons. This is my wifes car. What I was looking for was a repair standard for this issue. I talked to VW dealer and they said it was to replace the pan. I also checked with Some Ford engineers I know and they said the same thing. I am looking for documentation so I can prove my case to the place.
  • vw0683vw0683 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2006 VW beetle. When I go over bumps (train tracks, sewer grates etc) there is the normal jostling and banning sound. But then about 10-20 seconds after the bumps there is another banging sound. I took the car to the dealer and they tightened my license plate holder, didn't help. Took the car back, had them drive around with me and they heard the sound, so they replaced the driver's seat frame, even though the sound is coming from the rear end.

    Does anybody know what this sound may be or have any suggestions as to how to fix it?
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Member Posts: 30
    :confuse: We have a 1999 beetle 2.0 automatic. We have had the transmission replaced at about 56k due to the internal cooler failed and put water in the transmission. The car now has 70k and the check engine light had been on for a couple of months but the car ran fine. last week we took it in for some other work and they checked the codes and replaced the ignition wires and the light went out for about 20 miles and then came back on. This mornig I started it , did not let it warm up, and after 1/2 mile the check engine light was flashing and it went into limp home mode. After I drove it another mile the light stopped flashing, still on, and it drove fine... This is the second time it has done this. My mechanic said he only gets around 4 to 5 lines of data when he plugs in his device. Please advise.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    First and foremost.... you need to understand FLASHING CEL means DO NOT DRIVE... IMMENENT DAMAGE WILL HAPPEN.

    The offhand note that it "drives fine" means nothing... lets hope you have not fried the catalytic converter or something else expensive.

    Use a Vag-Com to troublesohoot.
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Member Posts: 30
    :confuse: I did not drive the car but a few feet when it went into the limp home mode. After it warmed up it drove with no notable degridation or performance issues. I have read all the horror stories linked to the check enfine light on. I was thinking that the map window with colder air runs the car too lean and as it warms up it gets back into a workable tabel to run. Does that make sense?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I assume you know P0171 means that the foreward O2 sensor has detected a lean condition.

    Most commont reason for P0171 is a cracked/broken or otherwise defective hose allowing air to 'leak' into the intake manifold AFTER the MAF sesor. (Between MAF and engine)

    Another possibility is the MAF itself not measuring the airflow accurately. If you have every one of those "oiled guaze" air-filters... (like K&N) then your MAF is likely destroyed.

    3rd possibility is the foreward O2 sensor measurng the lean condition improperly.

    I would approach this problem in the order I have suggesed above.
    1)Look for air-leak (replace all questionable rubber hoses
    2) Pull electrical connector off MAF and drive like that (forces "limp" mode safely)
    3)If that helps, consider replacing MAF
    4)Consider replacing foreward O2 sensor
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Member Posts: 30
    :) Thank you so much for the information. I forgot to tell you I put some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank when it was at 1/4 tank and have not added any fuel since then. Would that make any difference? I let the car sit for two days and started it this morning with no issues after I let the blue cooling light go off. I did not wait for the cooling light to go off the other day when I had the limp home mode issue. I know it says to let the engine warm up until the blue coolant light goes off, how important is that???? Thanks again for your help....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> " it says to let the engine warm up until the blue coolant light goes off"

    VW says to DRIVE GENTLY (accellerate slowly) until the blue coolant light turns off... this is the same as all other vehicles ever made. One should always take it easy on a cold engine. Driving gently is the very quickest way to warm up engine without excessive wear-n-tear.

    You do understand that the only reason that the NB (New Beetle) has the blue light is because it does not have a formal temparature-guage on the dash to tell you when engine is cold. (VW tried to keep true to the Original Beetle which did not even have antifreeze!!)

    On the other hand.... letting a cold engine IDLE until it is warmed up is not good for it. An engine takes much longer to warm up when idling. This allows condensation and other nasties to form in the crankcase.
  • jrolfjrolf Member Posts: 24
    My dad just bought a 2001 2.0 liter vw bug and he wanted to put a new timing belt on it. Well we put the timing belt on had everything back on and started it up, it ran for about 20 seconds then it kind of clunked and died. we took the belt back off and put the timing all back to top dead center, put it all back together again now it tries to turn over but it is like it is hitting on something. Could timing be 360 out?? Can anyone help me please. :sick: :confuse: :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I dont see how it could be out 360 degrees.... you are not supposed to allow any of the pullies move while the old belt is off.

    You may need "professional help" on this one. A timing belt that is installed wrong will allow pistons to hit the valves. This usually results in physical damage, bent valves and perhaps holed pistons.

    I guess you *could* remove the valve-cover to visually see the position of the cams.... but it is very likely that the damage is done and the head will need to be pulled.
  • vwsonlyvwsonly Member Posts: 1
    If you look at the Haynes manual, it will say that there will be ECU problems when the battery is changed. Hesitation sputtering etc. They say the parameters needs to be reset. I am looking for the same solution as you were. I know this is really old, but nobody ever puts the solution down. Only the problems. What was your solution? I am eager to solve my beetles problem. Thank you for your time.
  • krojaskrojas Member Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    Flodded bug, everything works fine, however there is a slight hesitation on the eng. while iddling in park. 2.0 eng. auto. Could it be an injector, ignition, computer any sugestion. Also can the trans. have water in it ? it drives and shift smooth. How can I check the fluid. And can someone tell me how can I turn on the fog lights on this beetle. Any sugestion will be appreciated thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Hanes manual is just plain wrong reguarding VW. Some other cars may do this (Dodge... etc)

    Replacing battery may lose RADIO coding because radio thinks is has been stolen.... I have never heard of any other issue in VW caused by changing battery.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    By "flodded".... do you mean the vehicle was underwater? If so.... you should have ALL the fluids changed. (Xmission, steering, brake, clutch... etc.)

    To turn on foglights, did you try to PULL out on the headlight switch when lights are on?
    (I assume you know that law only allows foglights to work on low-beam)
  • thebug87thebug87 Member Posts: 1
    Three days ago my car started having some problems. I would be able to drive my car for about 15 minutes before it would shut off. I tried to restart the car and the engine turned over but wouldn't catch. After about 10 minutes the car started and I drove it home. I checked the oil level, air filter, fuses, and coolant. The following day I drove the car to my dad's and the same stalling issue occurred and it restarted after 10 minutes and I continued driving to my destination. At this point my car had about a little under half a tank of gas. We checked the vacuum in the gas tank, which seemed all right. I then drove the car for a while to make it stall, once stalled we turned the key and it would turn over, but, not catch. We then immediately opened the gas cap and the car turned over leading us to believe there is an issue with the vacuum in the fuel tank. We have since driven the car for over an hour and it has not stalled, however, the gas level is now lower than a quarter of a tank. So I am back to square one. The check engine light is always on in the car so I cannot tell if a sensor is bad.
    The car had similar stalling issues two years ago and the crank sensor was replaced. Four years ago the oxygen sensor was replaced.
    We are going to check the mass air flow sensor and lights. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Modern automobiles have a "EEC" system. (Evaporitive Emmissions Control)

    Essentually, this system is intended to capture and store the vapors which come off the fuel in the tank. Then, as you drive, the vapors are released into the intake-manifold where the engine can burn them before they get released into the atmosphere. This is all controled by the onboard computer via solenoids.

    The EEC system has 2 purposes in life
    1) Elminate build-up of gasoline vapors in underground garages which are explosion-hazzard.
    2) Protect the atmosphere from organic vapors.

    The EEC system has a pretty complicated plumbing system whereas the onboard computer can activate solinoids and air-pumps to "test" that the EEC system is sealed. (A loose gascap would trigger a light on the dashboard)

    With all that said.... It sounds as if your EEC system is not working properly and the at least one of the solenoids is stuck closed thus sealing off the air-vent to the tank.

    I would suggest you "pull the code" which accompinies your dashboard light. This code will help isolate the problem.

    Most autoparts stores (Autozone) will "pull the codes" for you FREE.

    Once you have the code, we may be able to help you further.
  • dcordelldcordell Member Posts: 1
    Started having a problem this week with my 03 Beetle. My wife normally drives the car and she told me that she had a vibration at about 60 mph and up. My first thought was a tire out of balance, so I took it and had the tires rotated and balanced. I then drove the car to make sure the vibration was gone. Realized that what she was calling a vibration seems more to me to be an acceleration issue. The car runs great on flat roads, but when you try to quickly accelerate, it starts "missing". I can push the accelerator on down and the turbo will kick in, but still has a miss. Also happens when going up hills when you have to give a little more gas to keep your speed. I can top the hill and let off and the miss goes away. It don't have this problem accelerating from lower speeds, but when it's over about 50 mph if you try to accelerate quickly, I have this problem. The check engine light has been on for about a month with a P2181 engine coolant code. Checked this again and there is no other codes than that one. Any ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Fist of all, replace the ETC (Engine Temparature Sensor). Make CERTAIN you install a green one. (The factory updated the original one and colored it green so it is easy to identify if you have updated one installed.)

    A new ETC runs about $20 including new O-ring and clip to hold it in.

    It is entirly possible that the ECT is feeding bad data to the computer... thus the computer is not setting the fuel-injection and ignition-timing correctly.

    Once the light on the dash has been resolved... if you still have the "missing" problem, let us know.
  • jrolfjrolf Member Posts: 24
    Thank you for your reply I had to replace the motor. it was all messed up.
    :cry:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is one reason I dont mind PAYING someone to replace TimingBelt. The risk of severe engine damage is in THEIR hands....not mine. Worst-case scenario.... THEY have to replace my engine at THEIR cost.

    In fact, before I took my JETTA TDI in for timing-belt replacement, I did a lot of research and found someone who *specializes* in this kind of work. I asked every shop "When was the last time you replaced TDI timing belt"... if they did not do one in the last couple weeks... I looked for another shop.
  • katieann223katieann223 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a VW beetle and don't know what maintenance needs to be done regularly, yearly, or long term. It has 112, 270 miles on it and the time belt has been changed.. I believe a couple years ago. It takes a couple seconds to start, is that a norm with a tdi? I am moving about 300 miles away but plan to come home regularly. Any problem with distance traveling?
    Any good advice I need to know?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited April 2010
    With a TDI, you need to WAIT for the glowplug light to go out BEFORE trying to start the engine. At that point, it should start almost instantly.

    As for your question about 'distance travling'... the TDI is the VERY BEST CHOICE for that kind of driving. It *loves* the open-road. Expect well over 50MPG under those conditions. (If you have manual xmission)

    Keep in mind that the highest MPG is right around 55MPH. This puts the engine in its 'sweet spot' of 1800 RPM.

    Being 300 miles away means you can make the round trip on one tank of fuel and still have enough left to drive around for the weekend!! (my TDI gets 700 -800 miles per tank)
  • katieann223katieann223 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you! The travel information helped ALOT!
    I just have a couple more Questions about starting the engine and the glowplug light.
    Is glowplug light the blue one on the control panel?
    I am guessing that you turn the key not all the way to start and keep it there until the light goes out. How long will that take? :surprise:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited April 2010
    You really are a "newbie" with your TDI - LOL

    Yes, turn on the key to "run" positon and wait for GlowPlug lite to go out... then turn key to start engine. Just so you know, there are 4 glowplugs (one in each cylinder) they get red-hot and preheat the engine so the fuel will ignite properly during starting.

    Remember, a diesel engine does not have any spark-plugs to ignite the fuel...instead, the fuel ignites from being squeezed by the pistons. Cold diesel-fuel will not ignite properly. That is why there are glowplugs in a diesel engine.

    The glowplug lite looks like a double-curl of wire. (A heating element) The length of time it is on depends on the engine-temparture. At -20F, it may take 40 seconds to turn off. With a hot engine, it will turn off in less than 4 seconds.

    The BLUE lite is your engine temparture lite. Blue means that the engine is still below operating temparture so you should be gentle with the engine. (Overloading a 'cold' engine will wear it out prematurly) Always drive gently while the blue lite is on until the engine warms up.
  • jrolfjrolf Member Posts: 24
    I will definatly pay someone to replace it next time :)
  • brit7collegebrit7college Member Posts: 2
    Hey there. I can honestly tell you that after reading some of these forums, beetle ownership is scary. However, I owned a 2002 gl beetle. It had 90k miles on it. It was my baby and never had a problem with her. Honestly, you have to realize that alot of these people probably don't treat this car the way they should. I babied my car and she loved me in return. The only servicing ever needed was the routine service. Treat your call well and she will do the same in return. I had to sell my car because I am moving but I plan on buying another one. You love them or you hate them... and I loved mine.
  • dstonemandstoneman Member Posts: 2
    My daughter's 98 Beetle (gas engine) a week ago refused to start. Turned over until the cow's came home. Next day started right up. Wouldn't start a couple of days later in her high school parking lot. On a whim I shot starting fluid into air cleaner she started right up! But yesterday she wouldn't start again. Fuel pump is humming. Check engine light is NOT/WAS NOT on. Any ideas? THANKS!
  • carissa172carissa172 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    Hi,
    I bought my 2003 GLS for an amazing price, far under blue book, with only 58K. It's been 7 months and I need all new tires, shocks and struts. Plus the engine light just came on. I have lots of questions, so instead, if you have any advice for me, I'd greatly appreciate it! My main question would be if this is a normal rate of maintenance for those parts (At only 60 K?) Also, just curious if anyone else has problems with rocks hitting the windshield and hood ALL THE TIME?

    BTW, I'm a safe, easy driver! I go over speed bumps at a whopping 4 mph. ha :)

    Thank you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I can tell you my 2003 Jetta did not need struts/shocks till after 100,000 miles. Yours must have been mistreated if it needs all this done at 58K miles.

    Tires are about normal replacement items at 60K miles (if you rotate them annually)

    Engine-light can mean a LOT of things. I suggest you clean the snowscreen and get the codes pulled from the computer. Once you know the code that caused the lite to come on, it will be easer to diagnose.
  • carissa172carissa172 Member Posts: 2
    Yeah I thought it sounded too early for suspension to go at this mileage. I'm guessing the prev. owner was just overly rough on this car.
    Thanks for the advice, my dad and I are going this weekend to see about the engine light.
  • debbief2000debbief2000 Member Posts: 1
    HELP please....Have a 2001 Beetle, five speed, drove it all over today, stopping and starting. THEN, after last stop got in, alarm goes off when I try to start car..(which is nothing new alarm goes off all of the time. Fully believe this car is possessed), and the key will only turn as far as the ON position...will not move any further. Just stops like it is locked up Windows won't go down, light above mirror works, and that is about it. I have two VW Beetles...and one is always broken down with something. The 2000 Beetle looks like a warzone inside, everything is messed up, including some very sticky substance on the plastic parts of this car. BUT...I really need to have some idea what to do to unlock ignition...have used up all of my free tows with my auto club..But oh hey, wait it is good on gas. :sick:
  • jen_2010jen_2010 Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    Who can help? My 2003 Beetle convertible comes with power windows... Typically the window is lowered automatically when you open the drivers or passengers door and gets back up when you close the door again. This is not working anymore. The window still lowers automatically for a second and gets immediately back up before closing the door. The result is that the door does not close because it's too close to the rubber sealing.... Who can possibly help??? Thank you very much! Jen
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    I have a 2008 Beetle Convertible which had the window lowering problem on the drivers door. Sometimes it would work and sometimes not. Turned out there was a faulty sensor switch, which would sense when you opened and closed the doors, activating the slight lowering and then raising of the window when you closed the door. As long as the window goes up and down with the regular button on the door, the electric motor is fine. Not sure if you can repair the switch yourself or not. As mine was under warranty, the dealer took care of the repair. You may need a trip to a dealer, or knowledgeable repair shop.
  • jen_2010jen_2010 Member Posts: 2
    THX so much! I went to the dealer and it was indeed the sensor. Got it replaced... $325 :-( THX very much for your help!!!! Jen
  • kikinykikiny Member Posts: 1
    This exact thing happened to my Passat. It's very annoying in addition to being embarrassing, people probably think I'm trying to steal my own car! Anyway, I brought it to a mechanic who specializes in VW/ AUdi. I had to replace the alarm system which cost about $300. I hope it's no more than that for you!
  • panchobarronrpanchobarronr Member Posts: 1
    hello i will buy a 1999 beetle with 150,000 the owner says it neads motor mounts,,i will buy it cheap 1500dlls ,,what parts must be replaced besides the motor mounts it has 150,000 miles,i thinking on a mjor tune up
  • buggytrouble11buggytrouble11 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 Beetle that ive had for over a year now. It suddenly has a water(or something) leak on the rear floor on the driver side. its been raining a lot but this problem has never come up before. Its SOAKED. i dont know what to do or what the problem is. any ideas?
  • northwind3northwind3 Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    Can air bubbles in the upper line of the radiator reservoir be coming from a leak in the intake or exhaust manifold gasket?

    I get no water flow in the upper water line, just a little smoke fumes and water spurts. Even with the thermostat out and engine at 4000 rpm!!! The cooling system slowly builds up pressure with the reservoir cap on tight and then overheats. Boiling occurs from the bottom of the reservoir. When I clamp off this lower line, the boiling stops. Might be alot of air pressure going through this line.

    I checked the water pump. The impeller is tight on the shaft. It looks OK but I believe air in the system will make the pump lose prime and become ineffective. It seems there is no water pressure at all.
    At 4000 rpm's, a slight increase in water flow is seen in the upper radiator hose with air bubbles but still no flow at the upper reservoir line. Just little spurts of water! I put in a clear hose to observe the flow for the upper radiator hose.

    Fans do not ever come on but my first concern is the lack of water flow in that upper reservoir line and the air bubbles. I'm sure the pressure check will show an air leak. The question is where. If I hot wire the fans, they run just fine.

    I'm going to pressure check the cooling system today and hope it's just an intake or exhaust gasket. Engine runs fine with good power and smooth idle. No water in the oil or oil in the water. I believe compression is OK but have not checked it yet.

    There is an obvious milky white buildup on the valve cover cap. Was told that could be just from condensation but it's pretty thick and should not be there.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    First things first... DO NOT LEAVE THE THERMOSTAT OUT OF A VW ENGINE!!

    VW uses a "bypass" cooling system in which the thermostat is used as a bypass-valve to control the flow of coolant thru the engine. As the thermostat opens, measured amounts of coolant from the radiator is allowed to mix in with the master-flow.

    Leaving the thermostat out of the engine totally messes up the cooling system. The coolant does not have anything telling it where to flow. Without a thermostat, all the coolant may 'bypass' the radiator and the engine may overheat (or worse!)

    NEXT: Once you have thermostat in the sytem, if there is no coolant "peeing" from the small hose in the top of the pressure-canister...then your waterpump is the problem.

    The waterpump MUST be replaced when the timing belt is replaced. Your 1999 should have had the TB replaced at least once by now. Are you *certain* that the waterpump was replaced at the same time?

    Additionally, there are 2 types of waterpump available for VW engines.
    1) Plastic-impeller
    2) Brass-impeller

    I always insist that they install the Brass-impeller type when my timing-belt is replaced. This is because the Plastic-impeller type have a tendancy for the impeller to dislodge from the shaft and stop pumping.

    Here are some details about the plastic-vs-Brass waterpump.
    http://www.water-pumps.org/VW-and-Audi-forums-on-waterpumps-with-metal-vs-plasti- c-impellers.html
  • akutch9108akutch9108 Member Posts: 1
    i am converting a 77 fuel injection beetle to a carburetor. i have solex 34p1ct3 carb. and i am wondering since i have to buy a new duel port intake manifold but do i have to make a difference of what type i get for it. like if theres a difference between if it says 66-70 or 71-74 manifold. or does it not it not matter. and if it does make a difference what is it? and does ayone have any recomendations of what to buy?
  • james_beeltejames_beelte Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 beetle I just purchased put new compressor, condessor,dryer the works Charged a/c an Heres the thing It doesn't kick on till you Rev it up till about 1500 or more When it engauges the first time compressor stays on for about 4 secounds then cuts off for a sec then right back on an gets shorter an shorter Then after fourth Kick on it goes to just one for a sec then back of an so forth But only kicks on when the car is rev up. I have checked to make sure it has proper freon in it. I posted this on other websites an no luck yet either????
  • northwind3northwind3 Member Posts: 2
    My logic tells me the thermostat is closed while the engine is cold so that the water is circulating thoughout the engine but none going through the radiator. As the water heats up past 190 degrees, the thermostat opens up to allow water to flow through the radiator to cool the water.

    No thermostat means constant radiator flow even with cold water. My problem is no water is flowing through the upper radiator reservoir tube even when the engine goes to 4k rpm. There is no constant flow, just a little fumes and a little water spurting out but no change between idle speed and 4k. The water pump checked good and is tight on the shaft! Go figure!!!

    Also, there is really no water pressure in the upper radiator hose. At idle or 4k rpm's. That doesn't seem right to me.

    Do you see a water stream on the upper reservoir line at idle and then an increase at 4k? Also, squeeze that upper radiator hose and tell me if you feel a pressure increase from idle and then 4k rpm's. You can actually do this yourself by reaching for the throttle connection and reving the engine with your free hand. It's behind the air filter box near the firewall.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited September 2010
    Your 'logic' regarding how a 'bypass' cooling system woks is faulty. The thermostat in a 'bypass' cooling system actually CUTS OFF the flow thru the engine to force the flow thru the radiator.
    NO THERMOSTSAT = NO COOLING
    This is because all the coolant is likely to 'bypass' the radiator and overheat the engine.

    To more specifically answer your question... The upper hose (small diamator) which is plugged into the top of the plastic pressure-canistor should ALWAYS be 'peeing' antifreeze into the top of the tank. (even at idle)

    Since you describe not having any 'pressure' in the upper radiator hose, this tells me that you have a lot of air in the system. It is possible you simply have too much air in the cooling-system. Even a good waterpump cannot pump air.

    Once the engine is at temparture (with cap on pressure-resivour) the upper radiator hose should be too solid too squeeze at all. If you even loosend the cap.... all pressure will be lost from the system.

    Also, this cannot be said enough times... USE ONLY "G12" ANTIFREEZE IN VW ENGINE. (pink color) It clearly says "G12" on the side of the pressure-resivour.
    Mixing in even a slight amount of the 'green' type of antifreeze can cause 'gelling' and can plug up passageways inside the engine. (No coolant flow at all)
  • marduk573marduk573 Member Posts: 1
    My gf's VW Beetle won't shift into reverse. When we parked it reverse worked fine. Went back a short time later and it wouldn't shift into reverse. Any ideas? Anyone know where I can get a diagram of the tranny so i can fix this p.o.s.?
  • aarnoldaarnold Member Posts: 10
    Hi folks,
    I have a 2001 turbo beetle, and i'm wondering if anyone has this problem. My trunk light is intermittant. I've changed lights and checked for a short but can't find anything. any ideas anyone? :confuse:
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