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Mitsubishi Eclipse - 2005 and earlier

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  • I am in love with the 96-99 eclipse. They are some of the best looking cars ever made. I will be buying one in the next few weeks but what to do about the power. I am wondering if I did get the GS model would it be plausible, or even a good idea to buy an aftermarket turbo to get the added hp? See I know one way or another I am going to be moding the car, and naturaly a turbo comes to mind. After all the car was made with some models that had a turbo. So if I did get GS would adding a turbo my self be worth the trouble or should I just go and see if I can find a GS-T? Also I have heard several times that adding a turbo to a car that is not made for one can cause problems. Much to the effect of not having a strong enough trany to handle the added hp, or blowing your piston rings because of too much boost. Well If you can answer any of my questions that would be a great help. Email me: hunter@iamwasted.com
  • mrl859mrl859 Posts: 168
    I recently purchased a 2001 Eclipse RS with automatic transmission. I used to own a '96 sebring, and i know that did 110. I was testing top speed on my eclipse, but i wouldn't accelerate past about 92mph. I was wondering if anybody knows about Mitsubishi putting a speed limiter on the newer eclipses? If this is not Mitsubishi's doing, has anyone heard or had similar issue? Thanks.
  • I've heard about the crankshaft problem at some 95-00 eclipse. Is it an endemic problem with GS-T's or every eclipse models may have that problem? i am planing to buy a '95 Eclipse RS. I also want to learn is this problem common at eclipses that have automatic transmission or it is independent from transmission system? Sorry, i do not know much about cars.
    Thanks for your help..
  • rph74rph74 Posts: 14
    As far as I know, it is the Turbo engines only that have the crankwalk problem. I could be wrong, I have been a DSM enthusiast for almost 3 years now, and I have focused only on the turbo engines. The most common symptom is the clutch sticking to the floor when making left turns. If you get a car with this problem, unfortunately your engine will require a rebuild. My close friend had this problem on his 95 GSX and eventually threw a rod right through the oil pan. These problems do not appear on the first generation Eclipse however.

    Chris 91 GSX
  • I am thinking about purchasing a eclipse 97 or 98. I hear stickshifts are much more fun than automatic. I was just wondering what your people's opinions are.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    In this type of car, a manual tranny is definitely a better choice and makes the drive more exciting.
  • I've got a 2001 Eclipse GT with the 215/50R17 tires, and am wondering if anybody has used snow chains on one. The manual says "don't use chains" (presumably because they're worried about clearance) but I'm hoping that somebody has experience with the super-low clearance wire\cable chains (perhaps the "shur-grip Z" or similar) that they'd be willing to share.

    I don't think I'll need to use them very often, so I'd prefer not to shell out the money for the spikes-spider devices that are completely on the outside of the wheel (and require a winter-long device mounted to the wheel).

    Thanks,
    Chris
  • Does anyone know why the eclipse 99- is the strongest 4 banger available? Also I've heard that the crankshaft is poor on the GST & GSX, does anyone know where this rumor came from???
    If anyone knows please tell me.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    that some of you may find interesting: Eclipse or Tiburon? Perhaps you can help tharl make up his mind.... Thanks for your participation. ;-)


    Revka

    Host

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

  • This ain't no rumor. I had a motor rebuilt on my '95 Talon turbo awd because of this. Rebuild was covered on an extended service policy, fortunately. See this link for details;

     http://www.roadraceengineering.com/walkingcrankshaft.htm
  • screeliscreeli Posts: 12
    although originally i figured i was getting a tremendous deal on my $5500 purchase...after $700 within the first week for repairs i am begining to doubt myself

    i love the eclipse...but it seems there is more than meets the eye

    my current problem is that without downshifting, my engine has a tendecy of cutting off

    i had the dealship run some tests on the engine in neutral and nothing came up...but then again i never have problems in neutral...only the initial drop from a higher rpm...
    i guess there should always be a larger drop than the ordinary idle, but my rpm drops below 100 almost everytime i shift out to neutral
    although i dont have any extensive mechanical knowledge i thought it may be a timing problem and thats what i had the dealership look at

    my car idles at around 1000 rpm...is that too low?

    as long as i downshift and baby the clutch...my engine stays on
    i never have trouble restarting, but the loss of power steering could be a problem given say this happens in an intersection or something

    i had the car looked at by another more trusted mechanic since the dealership and they dont seem to find an answer either...

    any suggestions or similar sittuations?

    thanks, screeli
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Sorry to hear about your Eclipse problem. While you're waiting here for more feedback, you can search for similar problems in this discussion with the Advanced Search on the left side of this page.

    Also, try plugging your vehicle (make/model/year) into Edmunds' Maintenance Guide to see if you can find any TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) that might be related to your vehicle problem.


    Lastly, here's an informative article from Edmunds about Technical Service Bulletins: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB).


    Others here may have more to add. Good luck, and please keep posted on your situation.


    Revka

    Host

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

  • screeliscreeli Posts: 12
    i have a problem...

    unfortunately my speedometer doesnt work although the rest of my instrument panel does

    i took my 96 eclipse GS in to get it looked at and my mechanic assumed the speed modulator was broken

    he ordered this piece and replaced my old one, still did not work...
    he figured maybe the wiring kit may have gone bad and again tride a new one but still the speedometer did not work...???

    he is now wondering wether or not the entire instrument panel needs to be replaced...lots of $$$...or maybe simply a $23 circuit board for the speedometer

    before he goes through any more laborious processes..can anyone recommend a solution...??

    maybe someone else has experienced the same problem?

    thanx alot,
    screeli
  • Hi all,
    I am ready to buy a 98 or 99 Eclipse GSX. Now, i have heard of only a few problems with them such as crankwalk and undercared for turbos. I am a car enthusiast and will be using the car in Michigan (snow) and also have plans for body kit, nitrous, and other upgrades like fuel rail and whatnot. I love the idea of AWD,and quick starts of the line.I believe I need it here in Michigan, but what do I need to watch out for when buying? I plan on paying aroud 16000 for a car with under 35000 miles. ANY ADVICE??? thanks

    gfactor27
  • People have always said that Misubishi's are not reliable. True and False. Before you buy an Eclipse(Laser, Talon, =DSMs - same thing) you have to know a few things. Those who say the car is unreliable is often one who knows very little about cars. They are the ones who won't spend the money to maintain their car and care for it like any sports car. One, if you want a car that's reliable regardless to what you do to it(neglect it for thousands of miles at a time) buy a Honda. Two, you gotta know how to maintain a car - sorry the turbocharger is meant for minimal maintenence but not ZERO maintenence. I've owned two DSMS, a 1995 Eclipse GS-T and now a 1992 Eclipse GSX. Don't buy one unless you know how to maintain a turbocharged sports car(I can't stress that enough)! The weak link in all models seems to be the transmission - they simply aren't meant to handle abuse that people put them through - not that it's NOT designed to handle it because it's a sports car - but it's just simply it was made of materials not of the best quality to simply put it. If you drive this thing hard on and off every other that's ok.. but to do it all the time ur asking for a new tranny/tranny rebuild. Just if you insist on driving it hard all the time, shift slowly and make sure it goes into gear(change tranny fluid to fix minor hard shifting). If you wanna shift it like a bat out of hell do so at ur own risk! Things to check for before you buy a DSM:

    1. Does it leak or smoke fluids?

    2. Turbo shaft play(ask ur mechanic)

    3. Does it grind or hard to put in any gear?

    4. Check for maintence records(over 60K miles check if belts have been done)

    5. Basic stuff. - tires, oil quality, if time permits spark plug quality(could show how the guy'd been driving it), clutch engagement(does it slip(id you don't know ask ur mechanic?

    But if your worried about ur competence - have a mechanic check them out - that 50 bucks to inspect is worth it, trust me(have the seller pay half).

    As for performance , you can upgrade these neat cars for relatively cheap, the local clubs found at www.clubdsm.com can provide a ridiculous wealth of information.

    As for the "crank walk" issue in 1995 and up models, I can say that is true. It doesn't happen to all of them but some unlucky few will go through it and spend thousands fixing possibly throwing away the car or selling to unsuspecting buyer. It happens to 2nd gen DSMS around 30-40K miles - where the crank wears away at the main bearings and eventually resulting in major engine damg. Just watch out when buying cars with less then 40K miles - check if stepping in the clutch feels weird - for more info - check http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/


    The car(all turbo models) is a good platform for upgrades. It already comes with a turbo charger so simply upgrading the turbo charger and basic supporting mods can easily mean 300 horsepower.

    Again, don't buy the car(turbo models) if you don't know how to maintain it and have good habits of maintaining things you don't know how to do urself(timing belt, etc..) Other then that good luck.

  • mrl859mrl859 Posts: 168
    Do 2001 Eclipse hatchbacks offer ELECTRIC remote release on any trim level? I ask because I recently purchased a 2001 RS and am attempting to hook up the deck lid release to an alarm with keyless entry. The Mitsubishi dealer claims that the factory keyless entry does not release the hatch, and that an electric release is not available on any Eclipse. Is this correct? Could one be taken from a Sebring and installed. Does the 2001 Sebring offer it? Help!
  • rph74rph74 Posts: 14
    I agree with 180K DSM. As an owner of a 91 GSX with 182K miles, I might also add that Buying these cars does NOT require much automotive knowhow, but WILL require periodic work/maintenance by the owner. I speak for myself and many other DSM owners that much of the fun in owning these cars (Turbo models) is in the fact that most any average guy can learn to work on these cars. I have had my car for 3 years now, and can proudly boast that it has never been to a mechanic. I have done all diagnosis and repair on my own. I have also done all of my performance upgrades on my own-bigger turbo, fuel pump, front mount intercooler, K&N intake, boost control/gauges, etc.. Go to http://www.dsmtalk.com and you will see that many DSM owners put their heads together to solve problems. The 98 is a real good looking car, but you will find that performance wise the first generation Eclipse is by far the better buy. If you buy a 98 and want real performance, plan on buying a new turbo upgrade right off the bat.


    Chris

    91 GSX

  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    This is in response to a question # 15: idle problems (sorry, I still can not figure out how to "respond" to a question in Town Hall directly. If someone can enlighten me - will appreciate).ukrkoz@msn.com
    Anyway, Mitsubishi in its wisdom provides their cars with idle speed valve - an ELECTRONICALLY (what else!) controlled unit that is warmed up by a coolant to warm up gas/air mixture. Valve sits under the throttle body, has 2 coolant hoses connected to it. Also, has a GASKET between the valve and throttle bodies. Kinda sorta big 8 shaped. So, guys, that gasket starts leaking in a few tens thounsand miles. As a result - a mixture supplied by idle speed valve is not gas/air, but gas/air/coolant. You got the picture. Dealership item only, $350 on my cars - I have 3 Mitsus, Eclipse, Expo, Galant. I paid for the 1st one. Second and 3rd - I pulled the throttle body out, removed idle speed valve - and re-sealed the gasket with silicone gasket material. Saved myself $700 plus tax. Tip: idle speed valve is pain in totoo to disconnect. Japanese is Japanese - it's connected by 5 DIFFERENT LENGTH 4 mm screws that have PHILLIPS heads. Of course, they are made out of a soft metal, not hardened. They strip like this - click! The side screws - after a ton of penetrating oil, some screws can be accessed from inside the throttle body - I unscrewed using channel locks, grabbing the head of the screw. The center ones I had to drill the heads off, then pull the valve up. Then just get some matching screws from Home Depot or Lowe's, or Ace - just get some with hex heads, save headache. Takes me about 1 hr to do this - good return for $350 plus tax.
    Also, while you are there - find a UFO shaped item right under the throttle body, looks like a mushroom with 1 vacuum lead, the name's RGA valve. Remove it by unscrewing 2 bolts, and clean it inside with a good cleaner. Will save you a lot of problems later, prevents stolling and hasitent idle. Speaking from experience!
  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    We have - my son - 94 Eclipse, DOHC, manual, no turbo, nicely overhauled engine. In the last 4 days - when it got colder outside (it's not garaged) - the car will not start in the morning (7:30 or such) but will start and drive perfect after 9 am. It backfires, chokes, dies, or will not catch at all. Wait till 9 - 10 o'clock - sweet car, no problems. It has no distributor cap (where moisture usually collects) has brand new timing belt, computer is 8 months old, newer wires, new plugs, etc. As I said - after late morning - NO problems.
    Any suggestions? It sits in shop right now, they "ain't got a clue" as it starts fine in the shop. The bill builds up though - and I believe for some puny problem.
    Please, email me with your suggestions - ukrkoz@msn.com
    as we need help ASAP- this is his college/work car, I work in a different state, and our spare car just died too - timing belt slipped. We will have belt installed next week, but meanwhile have to rent a car for him and deal with turkies in a repair shop.
    Thank you all and greatly appreciate.
  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    SCREELY, is your car front wheel drive? if yes, raise the front on jack stands so the wheels turn free. the speed sensor is on the transmission, right below the throttle body, looks like a 1'' diameter tube sticking out. it's on the passenger side of trany, almost exactly where drive axle enters transmission. there's a connector attached to it on the top. anyway, sensor is attached to transmission with 1 10mm head bolt. loosen it up so you can wiggle sensor side to side, does not need much. start the engine, if you have automatic - put into drive, if manual - get a friend to engage it into 1st gear and run. now, with wheels spinning, push the top of the speed sensor towards the fire wall (driver). if your speedometer all at a sudden came back to life - you have speed sensor WORM GEAR worn out. pull the speed sensor out, order new gear from dealership - it; approx. $10, and replace it. it's very easy to do. if you are not comfortable with jack standing the car - loosen up the speed sensor, stick a rag so the outside part of sensor is tilted towards fire wall and drive the car. I drove my Galant like this for 2 weeks until I got the part. That's after I was told by Frost Transmission in Gadsden, AL, that transmission needs to be pulled out to replace a drive axle worm gear ($750 plus tax plus 3 days in shop). It took me 6 minutes to replace gear after I got it. Have fun.

    I have also noticed that you have idle problems. Read my message how to overhaul idle speed valve and clean RGA valve. By the way, I have 3 Mitsubishi-s, ALL of them have idle speed valve problem fixed at a some point. Whoever designed that leaking gasket in the valve - ain't too bright! Also, after I found ton of crap in RGA valve in Galant at 45K miles, I quit fueling at any gas station but Texaco and Chevron, as they add cleaners to gasoline.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    You seem quite knowledgeable about the Eclipse, and I'm sure others passing through here will appreciate your helpful information.


    As for your son's 94 Eclipse starting problem, you may want to also post (copy/paste) your message in the Eclipse Spyder discussion on our Coupes board. Someone there may have some feedback to offer. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.

    Revka

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    Considering that all we had left in my son's Eclipse was engine block - yeah, I think I know that car. Thanks for your message, Revka. Please, tell me how to reply to a message in Town Hall? There should be some way.
    Anyway, they are replacing camshaft sensor in our Eclipse. it makes sense (computer did not show it, but it's the only DISTRIBUTOR CAP shaped item in the engine and those are notorious to collect moisture). I had exactly the same trouble with our Expo LRV, all it took was to clean distributor cap - after I spent $79 plus tax for useless computer diagnostic.. Besides, we will clean all spark wires with ignition demoisturizer and lube 'em with dielectric lube. This should work.
    Screely had a question about RPMs on idle - actually, they are posted on a white lable on the hood inside. it's 750 +/- 100 RPMs. So he's killing his engine on 1000. Computer goes heywise because of this and throws everything out of wack.
    I would lower RPMs to 800 (after idle valve overhaul) with an adjustment screw - it's
    a big phillips head screw sitting in the throttle body, clockwise - lowers, counter - raises RPMs. Then check on timing - it should be +5 at normal idle WITH ALL APPLIANCES OFF AND IN NEUTRAL. Makes a lot of difference.
    By the way, whoever has automatic and wants to change transmission fluid - Mitsu. is weird! You have to check with gearbox in NEUTRAL, which is against every other car manufacturer(in Park). As owner's manual does not provide a refill capacity, only total (6.3 quarts in Galant) - drain fluid, then add 1 quart, get off the ramps,(don't worry, it'll drive!) let engine run for some 20 minutes or drive slowly in a quite neghborhood for some 10 minutes (you supposed to drive for 10-15 miles to heat fluid) and then start checking on dipstick for the right level. In galant it is 2.5 quarts (4 to 6 in average American car). I installed a gismo from AutoZone that replaces a drainplug and has a valve in it, so you can screw on a special drain hose that opens the valve - sweet for fine tuning the fluid level!(Fram makes those) Overfill is snicky - it blows gasket and seals in tranny. Also, for those who's tight on monies and would appreciate substitute for Diamond ATF - dealership's $5+ a quart - buy ATF+3, it's the same fluid, just more cost efficient (2.90)
    If y'all have any questions that I could help - I am at ukrkoz@msn.com
  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    I had lotsa fun scrolling through ALL the messages here. Idle problems seam to be persistant, don't they?
    Anyway, rattle in the front. I had it - in the back, though. It feels like someone's knocking on the car's body at low speeds - can't here it at high ones, though. Drove me crazy! I did all retightening possible - and I am a very strong person. Utill I had to replace struts and found that a rubber ring on the top of the spring has a hole in it from compression - just enough for the spring end to knock on the body. I rotated the ring so the end was covered with rubber - blessed be the silence!
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    "Please, tell me how to reply to a message in Town Hall?"


    You reply to the messages here in the open message box at the bottom of the page... just like you've been doing. In other words, you can't split this discussion up into separate threads. Fyi, you can search for specific items within the individual discussions with the Advanced Search feature on the left side of the page.

    Also you have the option to start up a new discussion, on the main boards, if you want to branch off onto a completely different subject. Hope this is helpful. ;-)


    Revka

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • rph74rph74 Posts: 14
    For any of you who do have idle problems with your Eclipse(I can only speak for sure for turbo owners), the most common problem on all of them is simply the rubber o-ring gasket on the idle screw. I had surging idle for about a year, until I learned of this common problem, and fixed it in 5 minutes and for about 2 bucks. It's easy and worth a try

    Chris
    91 GSX 182K
  • ukrbykukrbyk Posts: 16
    Some of you have noticed that I have posted a question about my son's car problem: will not start at 7 am, drives fine after 9 am. This happened last Thursday, when it was "cold" outside and car "frosted". I added water removal to the tank (more than 3/4 full) and drove car in the afternoon for some 20 minutes city/highway, no problems at all. saturday morning - 7 am - car will not start, backfires, chokes, etc. I panicked - backfiring sounds like a timing problem - and towed car to the only shop open on Saturday with computer diagnostic.
    They started it in the shop no problem, computer showed nothing. Sunday they barely started it at 9 am(garaged inside). I told them to leave it outside overnight - Monday it will not start around 8am. They suggested sparkplugs, I said - bull, those are Bosch platinum and 2 months old, but we stiill allowed to change sparkplugs and keep it outside overnight again. it will not start Tuesday morning. They suggested - camshaft angle sensor, quoted $102, turned around and installed $599 sensor without letting us know. I called them Wednesday morning, told to remove unauthorized part (car did not start anyway) and told my son to take car back home. he started it with some roughness at 3 pm and drove home. Then he went on highway and BURNED 90% OF GAS OUT. Added one more bottle of water removal and refueled with midgrade at a NEW Exxon gas station.(much less junk in fuel tanks in new sations)
    This morning he called me at 6:15 am to let me know that car started from half a turn. I believe, he's driving it right now.
    So, the moral is - don't panic and bring your car to Firestone. If it does not start in the morning but starts later - it's moisture in something that is dome shaped, like a distributor or a camshaft sensor. If your car - like ours - has 210 000 miles, is right after complete overhaul, drove nicely a day before, is not garaged, and won't start if it's covered with frost - well you got a damn water frozen in the fuel line. Burn it out!
    Re. idle speed valve. Well, we have 3 Mitsubishes: 2.0 Eclipse DOHC, 2.4 Galant SOHC which is the same engine as Eclipse just different head, and 1.8 EXPO. 94, 98, 93 respectavely. All three of them had exactly the same problem, symptoms and were fixed exactly the same way - idle speed valve replaced on EXPO, than I got smart and overhauld the rest of them plus cleaned RGA valve. All 3 valves had obvious leak through the gasket - white condensed slime on it, crystallized in some areas. EXPO's idle was so bad that I had to rig the throttle cable to hold high RPMs so AC will not stoll the engine when it turns on. I am running it now on 650 RPMs with all appliances/lights on and in reverse with no problems. And it's on 162K miles. I guess, it's different on turbos. But it's cool that we can share our experiences here. Saves a buck or two, doesn't it?
    By the way, this guy here has excellent and helpful website - just go to FAQs and you will have a great compendium on repairs. He'll also respond to your questions - I tried!
    http://www.marksalem.com/default.htm
  • ligartligart Posts: 109
    My friend has a 2001 Eclipse GT with a 5-speed. I think she tends to let the RPM's go down way too low for any given gear and lugs the engine. In general, what do you think is the lowest usable RPM for this car?
  • hmmm....
    if its not one thing, its another

    i still have not been able to find out why my eclipse will sometimes die after i drop into neutral...i still have no idea why sometimes my interior lights work, sometimes they dont...and of course, my speedometer is still at zero

    now theres more...

    i just got new tires, and because the dealership forced some lug nuts on crooked, it cost me $90 to replace some sheared studs...
    during the process of ordering some studs myself, with only 4 lugs on, i started recieving a violent vibration at about 60pmh

    couldnt go any faster because it felt as though something would break off...
    it got worse and resulted to about 40mph on the highway(took me almost 3 hours to get home from visiting a friend)

    i got the studs put on, replaced my tire as i had intended to before, had them all rebalanced...no vibration for about 12 hours...vibration back again...???

    the weird thing is...it will only vibrate between 60-80mph...and only when i accellerate??
    it is not a constant vibration like my old car with bad balancing...it comes in surges, very violently, very annoying and seems to be doing some damage

    and of course, it doesnt always do this
    this morning i got all the way to work without a single vibration

    ive been speeding quite often trying to test this thing out...trying to get some ideas...or some speeding tickets i guess

    i had my mechs look at the wheel, the suspension and such...no immediate answers...

    any ideas?
  • SPYDER98SPYDER98 Posts: 239
    This is one of the many reasons why I will never own another car without the peace of mind of an extended warranty. Car's are very complex these days in every aspect and it's only getting worse.
    Labor rates are rising also.

    My best advice and I'm quite sure your eclipse might still qualify. Is to invest in an extended warranty from a 3rd party company out there like 1-Source or Warranty Gold.

    I bought my spyder gst new back in july of 98. Well 144k miles later it still looks and runs great. However, the journey has'nt been an easy one. Warranty gold has saved me over $3k in repairs so far (thankfully). Other than a convertible top problem, I've only had to cover maintenance for the last 4 1/2 years.

    Believe it or not, I would still buy another mitsubishi product. But I would never own one without a warranty! EVER!!! :-D
  • I am considering a 1999 Eclipse Turbo from a Mitsubishi dealer. It has 51k miles on it and is in pretty good shape. Are there any common problems with this model at about this mileage? I can do proper and timely maintenence but I don't want to have to fix something that I didn't cause.
    Any help is great.
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