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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • twitch1twitch1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 Honda Civic. i was in an accident this morning. my right front fender of my civic clipped the back of an 86 mustang, tore off half my bumper. and bent mayb 3 inches of the end of the frame for my fender. well i tried to start my car. it would crank, but wouldnt turn over(start)does anyone have any suggestions on what the problem may b?
  • oysterpoysterp Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Honda Civic and apparently it's a lemon. At 39,000 miles I had to replace motor mounts, and now, at 42,000 miles, I've just had to replace a "throttle body positioner" -for 530 bucks! I have friends who have civics with 200,000 miles on them who haven't had to replace these pieces. Of course, I'm not in warranty anymore. But my car keeps breaking. I am an ex-New Yorker, and don't know a lot about cars, but it is becoming obvious I've gotten a bad one. Currently trying to get Honda to pay for the last repair.
    Anyone else had these issues with a civic? or any advice on how to deal with Honda, and how to get myself into a better car?
  • bestdad4usbestdad4us Member Posts: 8
    Hello. I have a new 08 Civic and am reading the manual. I have a question regarding gasoline. The manual says Honda recommends using "quality gasolines containing detergent additives that help prevent fuel system and engine deposits" They also recommend "the use of gasoline that does NOT contain manganese-based fuel additives such as MMT" and not to use use gasoline containing methanol. Also "your vehicle is designed to operate on oxygenated gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol by volume and up to 15% MTBE by volume".

    My (probably dumb) question is - by pulling up to a pump at a gas station, how do you know what's in that fuel? My first fill-up I looked and didn't see anything other than the octane numbers.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Okay, a few points:

    - Virtually all gasoline available here in the States has the necessary detergents.
    - I don't believe MMT has ever been used here in the States (with the exception of a few experimental spots), and is not currently available anywhere.
    - If MTBE hasn't been phased out everywhere in the U.S., it soon will be.
    - That leaves you with Ethanol, and every pump is required to display a placard that states the maximum Ethanol content. Typically pumps will say "Contains up to 10% Ethanol". FWIW, this fuel is typically referred to as E10.

    Where I live in New England, fuel stations in the greater Boston area have recently been converted to E10, however, if I go north one county, 100% gasoline is all that can be bought.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kw_carmankw_carman Member Posts: 114
    I have a 2002 Civic EX coupe. For the past 3 months or so I have noticed a noise similar to a cow mooing (no joke) or something vibrating (much like a cell phone) coming from my car when it is parked. Sometimes it will happen within a minute of parking it--sometimes I'll be outside and haven't touched it for 8+ hours or even days and I'll hear it. It's not loud, but can be heard from about 10 feet away.

    A friend of mine says it sounds like maybe some sort of flap operated by vacuum, but I'm still pretty stumped. It happened twice within ten minutes tonight five hours after I last drove and touched the car.

    When the noise starts I try to get near it but I can never find the source in time before it stops again and I can't replicate it--it happens at random times. All I know is that it is most likely coming from under the hood.

    I know this is vague, but figured I could fish for some answers. :surprise:

    Any thoughts?
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    I have a 1998 Civic CX, auto, with about 65k miles on it, original owner. I have had the timing belt replaced recently and since then, on cold mornings, I can smell raw gasoline for a few seconds after a cold start. This is especially true on cold mornings. The smell is not strong, and i can't see any gasoling in the engine compartment or under the car. I did not notice any smell before the timing belt replacement.

    I called the dealership (Honda East, Cincinnati) and I asked if they removed any fuel hoses for the timing belt replacement (not sure what that involves), and the tech adviser said "possibly" and recommended that I leave the car there overnight. I have had some bad experiences there recently, and I am reluctant to waste hours (drop the car, get a ride back home, get a ride back to the dealership to pick up the car etc.) and get the standard "could not replicate".

    So my questions I guess are: can the gas smell be caused by the timing belt replacement, and is it worth pursuing this?

    Daniel
  • metrodsmetrods Member Posts: 3
    I had a gasoline smell in my '99 Civic. It turned out to be a cracked exhaust manifold. The manifold incorporates the catalytic converter. I am in California where it is illegal for a junkyard to sell catalytic converters. However, if you ask for a used exhaust manifold they may sell you one. It's a hell of a lot cheaper this way. My Civic now has over 250k miles and it purrs.........
  • steve121969steve121969 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all.

    Great site and my first post. My civic just yesterday started to make a high pitched squeak around the front right tire. from this site, if it was the bearings it would be more of a grinding and the sound ONLY HAPPENS when my foot ISN"T on the brake. it usually goes away when braking or after the car has been running for 10 min or so. Any ideas?? Thanks.
  • adukeaduke Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 civic sedan and the fuel gauge wouldn't work
    is there anything i can do ? :D
  • svalmv3svalmv3 Member Posts: 2
    I cannot for the life of me remember hearing a tale of a Civic engine failing at 48,000 miles! Someone please tell me this is a bad joke and not common.

    I have had my 06 Civic EX right off the showroom floor. Never had any issues with it other than normal maintenance. Last week I changed my oil which I have done on all my cars for 30+ years...not rocket science, ya know?

    253 miles after the oil change, I was accelerating onto the roadway from a friends house. I was going about 9mph, 1500 to 1700 rpm when the engine let out a squeal followed by a loud bang.......silence immediately set in. The engine died right then and there at 48,787 miles! It would not even turn over. I have never had an internal component fail on a engine before, but trust me the sound of shearing metal is unlike any other. The tow truck came and took me and my car back to the dealership where I had to BEG like hell for a 1 day loaner!

    Anyway, all problems centered around #3 cylinder. In the "official" report the #3 connecting rod broke right about the main bearing knocking a whole in the crankcase. I also suffered a spun bearing (#3). The engine was a total loss!! Unfortunately I had to spend $4,310 to put a new engine in the car, and pay $325 for a week and a half rental car.

    Neither Honda nor the dealership offered any solutions to help me rein in costs.

    Does anyone know if I have any recourse with Honda? So far their party line has been "sorry dude, your screwed!"

    ANY suggestions?????

    Thanks,
    Scott
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    You obviously have a case number with Honda now, but I'd also write a letter to their headquarters and see what they can do for you...ask for some kind of goodwill gesture. I would think that they'd have paid for at least 1/2 the new engine if not more...just for the goodwill. True, you are out of warranty and you are a do it yourselfer, but they should stull "step up to the plate" and help out here.
    This is why I always have at least 1 oil change at the surrounding dealers so if I do have any problems down the road, I'm at least in their data banks as having done a service at their facility. Might mean diddly and it just might help if a problem ever does arise.
    One thing...if you don't ask...you don't get! A heartfelt letter might just do the trick. And if not, you're no worse off than you are now!

    The Sandman :)
  • hickorychickoryc Member Posts: 25
    Here in South Louisiana, we garageless individuals are accustomed to starting out each morning with the windshield wipers going and front & read defoggers on. Our Civic EX sedan is less than a week old. My wife has noted that the rear defogger is either not working, or it is barely doing its job. I have owned efficient de-foggers (Fords), and slow-pokes (Chevy). Is Honda Civic a poor performer in this category?
    Thanks in advance for any reply.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Even to near-perfect Honda and Toyota, crap happens. They are machines, it's amazing they work at all, let alone perfectly in every instance. While I'd be hopping mad myself - I doubt you'll get a lot of help from Honda, sadly....
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I'm helping shop for a car for my 16yo daughter. I came across a '98 Civic EX with about 80K miles at a reasonable price. I went to Edmunds online maintenance schedule and can't find any sign of timing belt replacement. Does this car have a chain?

    Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It has a timing belt, and is just about due for a change, unless the prior owner has proof that they have already done it, plan on doing it right away.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, right now fuel-efficient, reasonably priced cars aren't staying on the market very long and I missed this one. Hopefully I can take this knowledge and be a little quicker on the next one that pops up. :shades:
  • will26will26 Member Posts: 62
    I live in Wisconsin and the rear defrost work great on the window when it's iced up. Are you talking about that morning dew that's on the windows or do they actually get fogged up inside? The rear defrost doesn't do well when it's just the wet dewey stuff.
  • civic2086civic2086 Member Posts: 6
    Its totally unacceptable for an engine to die at 48K. If Honda doesn't give at least 50% back to you, I'd never shop Honda again. Show them a picture of your nice new Ford or Toyota and be sure to let everyone know what your Honda did for you. As for me, I have a 117K on my 2001 Civic LX and my only problem thus far has been my suspension- about $850 worth of it around 100 K miles. My dad's gm Caddy is a 1992 with 160 K miles and his only problem has been a $400 water pump. Both of our cars purr like a kitten :o).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is really a case for "automotive forensics". The issue I think would be resolved around a factory technician coming out and examining the engine (or if you want to get really tough, having the engine examined by an engine rebuilder yourself for possible legal action) and determining if the cause was oil starvation or if it was metallurgical failure.

    Since you changed your own oil, the burden would be on you to prove that the engine didn't run out of oil somehow. Even if say the seal on the oil filter was defective, which isn't your fault, the engine blowing up is still not Honda's fault.

    On the other hand, if the engine shows no signs of oil starvation whatsoever, that is suspicious in terms of a structural failure.

    If the dealer had changed your oil, or even if Jiffy Lube did it, this whole story might have had another outcome.

    Can a Honda engine blow up all by itself at 48,000 miles? Sure. So can a Ferrari or Rolls Royce or a Lexus. Even at 10,000 miles. Even at 600 miles. Sometimes they aren't put together correctly.
  • chrismattachrismatta Member Posts: 19
    I own a 2005 Civic, 55k miles and am looking to prolong the life of the car as much as possible. I put between 20-25k miles per year on it, about 75% of which is highway.
    I'm looking for educated opinions on the reality of the maintenace schedules which Honda suggests. It does pile up, especially when one is on a fixed budget.
    For example, at my 50k service, it was recommended that I do a "Throttle Body Service", a "Cooling System Flush", and a "heater Cabin Pollen and Dust Filter". Does anyone have an opinion on these services, and how important they are..?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Those all sound fine to me, but I think you could do the pollen filter yourself. Cooling system flush is a good thing, and as for the throttle body service---well, throttle bodies DO get dirty but if you aren't having any symptoms, I'd probably skip that one for now unless you are using one of those K&N type "lifetime" filters.
  • 06civic_pain06civic_pain Member Posts: 8
    This matter has been resolved satisfactorily.
  • 06civic_pain06civic_pain Member Posts: 8
    This matter has been resolved satisfactorily.
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    The MIL in my '96 Honda Civic is on. We have been having ridiculously cold weather lately. We disconnected the battery and rehooked it up when it warmed up and the light disappeared for a day - the temperature dropped to -35 C that night. The light is now back on and tightening the gas cap and disconnecting and reconnecting has not worked this time around. Another piece of advice I received was to check the O2 sensor. First, where is this sensor(s) located and second, how do I check this? As a student, I would really like to avoid any unnecessary trips to the garage. My budget can't handle unexpected expenses :(

    Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Get the codes read off the car's computer. You'll waste more money by guessing and the codes will give you the clues you need to spend as little as possible. It could be nothing more than a vacuum leak.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Go to your local auto parts store such as Auto Zone or Advance Discount Auto parts and they will read the code for free and then recommend the part to replace. All the items you mentioned can cause the MIL to come on.
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    I took your advice (thank you) and had the codes read. P0108 came up for the MAP sensor but unfortunately I am having a tough time trying to track down this part so far. Any suggestions? Also, again, I would like to avoid the garage as much as possible. Where is the MAP sensor located and how does one go about replacing it?

    Thanks!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I googled "map sensor honda civic" and that one looks like it's over my head. The code P0108 is "MAP Sensor high-voltage (low vacuum) problem". Sorry I couldn't help more.
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    I replaced the MAP sensor and presto, the light turned off. The car seems to be running smoothly except is still getting sub-par gas mileage. Anything that comes to mind?
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    yes, have you unplugged the battery for 10 minutes or more? That should reset the main computer. It will "re-learn" the system and should increase your fuel economy.
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    The battery has been disconnected, but only for a few minutes. I'll try your suggestion, thanks! :)
  • wco81wco81 Member Posts: 590
    Have a 2007 EX Sedan, about 7000 miles on it.

    It's been running fine for the over 2 years I've had it. Short commute.

    I've been running the heat more than usual (Northern Calif. winters are usually mild).

    I notice when I have the fan on the ventilation system slightly up and the temperature set to a couple of bars into the red portion of the dial, the cooling fan (not the ventilation fan) always runs when I start the car.

    It goes on and off all the time but every time I start, whether from a cold start in the morning or later after it's been warmed up, that fan is running.

    Not all the time but on and off.

    Seems odd that using the heater would cause this fan, which seems to be for cooling down the engine, would run.

    Anyone else observed this?

    Is it something I should have checked out?
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    I posted awhile back about my '96 Civic Ex that was having what appeared to be a MAP sensor issue. The new part seemed to do the trick for the past few months, but unfortunately the MIL is back on again and the car is stalling like before. I have not had the chance to get the codes read again yet, but in the meantime is there anything else that you can suggest as a possible issue?

    Thanks!
  • ttc1980ttc1980 Member Posts: 1
    I'm been trying to figure out how to manually reset my oil life % back to 100%. Can you tell me how to do this? Greatly appreciated. Pls reply back to [email protected]

    thx! :blush:
    TTC
  • heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    Have a 2005 2Dr. and release for fuel door does not work. Have to release it each time from trunk. Is this difficult to repair myself? Any links to instructions or parts?
  • accordhunteraccordhunter Member Posts: 24
    You can check on page 294 of the Owner's Manual.
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Member Posts: 167
    I have an '08 LX Sedan. If it's running and I turn on the heater fan, a fan instantly comes on in the engine compartment. If the heater is left on when I tun off the car, when I start it, that fan or motor in the engine bay is on, too. I understand it is the same little belt/motor or whatever the heck it is, that runs the air conditioner. I haven't got out and poped the hood and looked when it's running, but it does kinda sound like the fans that blow on the radiator when you idle for a long time, or in hot weather. I'll try to remember to check that out next time I visit a friend when it's sunny! It is normal, I'm 99.99% sure.
  • colleenacolleena Member Posts: 6
    During a particularly hot spell I left the two back power windows cracked about 2 inches. Unfortunately for me, my '96 Civic window regulator decided to kick the can and now I can't get the windows back up. Is there a way to manually raise the windows, at least temporarily, until I can get the problem fixed properly?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I don't know if this would work for your car, but I had a window regulator go out on my Acura TL. I was able to pull the window up with one hand on each side of it while standing outside the car and it stayed up until I could get it fixed.

    Hope this helps!
  • booneylooneybooneylooney Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    my car has about 70k miles on it. today my mil light comes on, and i checked the manual to see what could possibly be wrong. i thought it might be my engine oil is low since it has been 5k since i had an oil change....will do that this weekend. i have tighten the gas cap but i refuel about 7 days ago....the mil light keeps brinking and then stay on after i added more oil.....but sometimes the acceleration kind of stall for a few seconds.....can someone help???will it be okay to drive it to work until i can get into the dealership on the weekend?
  • jeff618jeff618 Member Posts: 29
    FYI - the only 8th gen civics you have to mess with refills and/or the dealer is with the 06-07 SEDAN (because they are proprietary to honda). The rest of the civics (06-10 Coupes and 08-10 Sedans) have more common/universal wiper arms and wiper sizes so you can get aftermarket replacement wiper blade assemblies that snap right on the arms - a heck of a lot simpler, and if you are in cold climates, the assemblies go through a ton of abuse so its not a bad idea to replace the whole assembly - we're only talking $10-$20 per wiper depending on brand and quality).

    Just make sure you look-up the make, model and year - and keep an eye on trim/body style - of your civic in the application guidebook or by Googling 'lookup wiper size'. Just pay attention and you'll be ok.

    I ended up going with 'Trico Tech Beam Blades' on my 07 Coupe. Got them online and they work AWESOME! I've also used Trico NeoForms in the past too - also great.

    Hope this all helps others...
  • jonesbb630jonesbb630 Member Posts: 31
    If you have the AC or defrost mode, it's totally normal. Change your setting to vent air only, without the AC, and it should go off.
  • jonesbb630jonesbb630 Member Posts: 31
    Aftermarket blades are not for me. I have even spent up to $40 on blades before but when the ice gets on you blades, the Honda ones have given me the best results. Honda refils are only $5 each. They are a bit harder to install, but the Honda blades also work better at higher speeds facing strong winds. They tend to stick better on the windshield. This is my 14th Honda, and tried differents blades over the years only to come back to the Honda ones. If you go aftermarket, at least keep your arms in case you want to switch back. Don't mean to contradict you one that, but I really don't agree with you.
  • canadaycanaday Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    FYI.... the 08 Civic Ex sedan uses proprietary blades/refills. Normally a simple wiper replacement should take two minutes at most. With these, I suggest you set aside an hour or so. Better yet, schedule an appointment with your dealer. What a rip-off. Honda has discovered the secret handshake method of increasing its dealers service revenue. Without spending an hour to figure out how they work and some research, you won't get them off. There is nothing wrong with the old fashioned easy to replace design. Sign me as unhappy civic owner.
  • canadaycanaday Member Posts: 3
    Uh.. I spoke too soon. These '08 blades are not proprietary. Just wayyy too cute.
  • sjetsjet Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    Noticed a number amount of dings along side of right rear panel of 2009 Honda civic-touch up paint from dealer has not work to cover them. Was told that entire panel must be replaced by an auto body shop. Is there another option to remove small dings or dents?
  • jonesbb630jonesbb630 Member Posts: 31
    Not sure about dings but, dents can be taken out companies like Dent Wizzard or Dents Away. Used car or even dealers are usualy familiar with this. If the paint is not chipped, a good buffing machine can do wonders.

    Good luck...
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    Last summer I picked up a 93 Del Sol Si w just 73,000 miles (my 3rd one - I'm kind of a sucker for this model). It was owned by a 75 yr old farmer who only drove it in the summer. It ran well, but as insurance I basically did the 90K service (timing belt, water pump, AT tranny fluid, plugs...).

    It is running fine, but the check engine light comes on after 5-15 miles about 75% of the time. If I turn off the engine & restart, it will stay off for a while, but basically follows the same pattern. I have noticed that my MPG are about 20% less than my previous Del Sols. Are there any common issues that I should consider before ponying up $100 to take it to the dealer for troubleshooting? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be a simple misfire--did you check cap, rotor, plug wires? Also check for loose gas cap, leaking vacuum lines to the evaporative control system.

    It resets because the misfire or fault clears and then resets the code after a certain number of incidents.

    Other than that, I'd suggest you read the codes and get a hint from that.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    one other thing that wasn't mentioned. Instead of going to the dealer and paying them, just take the car over to autozone, they will read the trouble code that caused the CEL (check engine light) and then you can just look up what that code means. No need to pay the dealer all that money when it's free at autozone!

    and then bring that code back here so we can help you determine whats going on :)
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