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Steve, Host
The only dilike is the mileage which barely gets me 400km a tankful (250 miles) which is around 70 litres (18 gallons). I understand winter is usually worse for mileage but it is a little worse than expected. I am hoping to get 500km a tank in the spring/summmer.
Also, not terrible impressed with how the 4WD engages, feels sloppy at times. Other than that, I love this truck.
I've tried coaxing the horse out of the dashboard with a carrot, but it did not work. Woooohhh Nelly!!!
(scroll down a bit to the Most Wanted section)
I'd love to direct you to a current "foreign vs domestic" debate, but those boards go nuclear so fast they wind up getting frozen almost as soon as they leave the gate.
Steve, Host
1. Spray isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in there, just in case it is a grease causing the smell.
2. Spray bleach in there (bleach kills everything)
3. Disassemble the whole unit and scrub down each part individually.
Unless, of course, anyone has any other ideas.
http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/
which he says will allow me to purchase any vehicle under Ford’s banner at “3% over DEALER
COST”...( if I am not mistaken, A-plan if for Ford employees/retirees, X-plan if for their
immediate family members, Z-plan is for non-relations...correct me if I am wrong)...here’s the
bottom line questions...1) if “dealer cost” is defined as Edmund’s invoice cost, and if Z-plan is
3% over that, there are already dealers out there who will sell a car at Edmund’s invoice, and Z-plan would cost me money rather than save me money...if “dealer cost” is defined as including all other holdbacks, etc., then Z-plan would be a great deal...does anyone familiar with Ford plans know how “dealer cost” is defined?...2) Also, my friend said that since he was a salaried employee, as opposed to an hourly (unionized) employee, his plan will also allow the discount on Jaguar and Land Rover...so, while I could consider Mountaineer or Aviator under the Ford/LM brands, does anyone know the discount on Land Rover Discovery, since Edmunds has no listing
other than MSRP?...3) do employee discount plans only cover new cars, or does it cover used,
too, since I would, in the future, consider a 2 or 3 year old Jaguar XJ8L???...thanks for any
helpful information...
Bob
I have a copy of the Ford invoice for my 99 E350 Club Wagon and the numbers are as follows:
MSRP: $30540
INVOICE: $26699.60
MEMO (Invoice Less Holdback): $25801.60
A-PLAN: $25421.60
There are some additional figures of $2555 and $23122.00 with no headers attached to them so I really can't tell what they mean. Keep in mind that this info is three years old and things may have changed a bit.
X-Plan is pricing for Ford Partner companies and their employees and/or members. That pricing is A-Plan + 4%. That's what I used for our Mountaineer.
Regarding Jag and LR plans, if they are structured like X-Plan, I believe that they are a fixed dollar amount discounts. And if my memory serves me correctly, not very good discounts at that.
Ford/Mercury/THINK - A-Plan+4%+$150
Lincoln - A-Plan+4%+$250
Volvo - A-Plan+2%
Land Rover - Dealer Invoice+4%
Mazda - E-Plan+5.3% (E-plan is Mazda Employee Price)
Jaguar - Cash allowance of $500-$1500 depending on model
SuperDuty F450-F750, T-Bird, Volvo XC90, Range Rover and Aston Martins are not included.
Here's some additional info regarding the X-Plan program:
* You can lease or buy your vehicle through this program. However, depending on the brand selected, you may be required to obtain the lease through the respective brands credit source. [Ford Credit]
* You are eligible for all public incentives plus many incentives normally paid to the dealer. Some special offers may not be compatible with this offer so check with your dealer to determine which incentives you are eligible for.
* Prior model year vehicles are only eligible through March 31st of the current model year.
* Used vehicles are not eligible.
* Trade-in allowances are not covered by this program and will likely represent the wholesale value of your trade-in. (may be lower than expected)
* Dealer Participation in this program is voluntary.
As for the other items:
Leather wheel- had one on my '95, and despite regularly cleaning and conditioning, the leather began to look terrible and I wound up covering it. I prefer the plastic for the long run.
Mirror heaters- I live in Pennsylvania and can say that it's very rare that they would be of any use here. Don't know about your climate but I imagine you could live without them.
The one change that I would not mind having from the 2002.5 is the shoulder belt in the middle of the second row.
The 2002.5 comes with fog lights, which the early ones didn't have. I bought the kit from Ford for about $200 and installed them myself.
Good luck!
I realize the dealer makes a tidy profit with holdback and the Blue Oval rebate, but still have a couple of questions:
1. Has anyone purchased at or below invoice recently (and kept the rebate/financing incentive)?
2. Did the FDAF and doc fee added to the "X dollars over/under invoice" pricing?
3. How long does it take for an order to come in from the factory?
4. Is the deposit refundable (say the vehicle comes in after the rebates expire)?
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Johnny
"Question, on 2 separate vehicles I drove I heard a sort of wistle noise that appeared to be coming from the passenger side? Is this common? Anyone else notice something like this. It seemed very faint and came and went depending upon the speed and direction of travel (maybe the wind direction too?) I'm thinking tire noise or something related to the mast antenna? Any comments welcome"
I am wondering if you've figured it out or not. My 03 XLT has the same problem. I also guess it comes from the antenna, but really not sure. Thank you for any comment!
the air curtain airbags, if you've seen a set ever in discharged position at a car show or meet, are meant to keep from scrambling your brains inside your head banging on the roofline as the vehicle rolls over. they won't reach down to the level of anybody under junior high level... they're supposed to be, at least at Ford, a soft-deployment bag because you should have the half second to do that. so they shouldn't come into play with booster or child seats at all unless the seat is not fastened down, or breaks loose. and at that point, if the seat and the child is a loose missle, probably won't make a difference there, either.
so there should be no major threat unless you drive a truck like it was a Miata, and you're playing fighter pilot. in that case, you're going roofing, not 4-wheeling, to use somebody else's wonderful phrase.
I doubt anybody has any hard numbers of the "001% of all accidents involving children in car seats, rollovers, and goats...." type at all.
I doubt there is any difference at all in the "safety" of the two tires. Pick the model you like best, and be content with the knowledge that the new body style is a lot better than previous versions in that respect.
If it really concerns you, shop for a station wagon.
On a side note, a 2003 Explorer I test drove had faulty BFG 17" tires. The belts were showing! The BFG 17" tires on the 2003 EB I bought appear okay.
I checked on The Tire Rack's site and compared the 235/70/16 to the 245/65/17 being used on NBX and Sport package XLTs. The 16" tire is 29.1 inches tall and the 17" (using Cross Terrain specs because I'm not sure what Ford uses) is 29.6 inches. That would make the difference in height .25 inch, since half of the difference is below the axle centerline. A small difference.
As far as speedo gears go, they probably don't change them. The difference would be only 1.4%, which is within the error margin of most modern cars' speedos. They probably choose a gear that reads slightly high for one and slightly low for the other.
As for ABS, I'm not an expert on it but I would think that as long as all 4 wheel/tires are the same height, it would not bother the sensors.
Just had mine replaced 2002 truck would not do anything. Seemed like a dead battery but lights and radio worked.
Dealer quickly diagnosed and repaired truck.
Truck is one year old first time I was back to the dealer.
a good place to start, even if you buy your geegaws locally.
note: due to the initial issues with the 2002 lift glass in back and some hints on these forums that alignment of the parts remains critical, you probably don't want to put a 400-watt bass amp and a pair of 18-inch woofers in the back of an exploder. thump-thump-CRASH-tinkle! is very possible.
addenda: for that matter, you should be able to do about the same thing for everything you're looking at here on Edmunds, as well as check the operating cost as well with the TMV feature.
The other day, I noticed the letters 'cal' by my dash compass. Figuring it probably stood for calibrate, I proceeded to the owners manual to find the 'procedure'. Well, seeing how I don't have the info message center, I have to use this method that goes something like this...
1. Find the compass control unit that's mounted behind your rearview mirror. (i.e small black box)
2. Find recessed hole in unit. Place something in recessed hole and hold.
3. Drive in small circles several times keeping pressure in the control unit's small hole until compass recalibrates.
I have yet to do this, but as an engineer certainly found the process somewhat entertaining.
btw, you have 30 minutes to edit your message after posting - look for the Edit button by the title of your post.
Steve, Host