Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier

nvbanker · September 2003

I think it was actually the second row now comes with bucket seats, and a console.

tummy · September 2003

Have you experieced wind noise from sunroof? My wife bought a MM V6 Premier in July and she complainted some wind noise. I checked it and found the wind noise can be noticed from 35~40 MPH and above. The car was checked by the dealer but seems the dealer can not fix it. I just wonder if it is common for MM with sunroof.

1sttimevolvo1 · September 2003

The wind noise is not isolated to the Mountaineer. Most all vehicles with sunroofs will experience varying degrees of wind noise due to the sleek body shapes that are available today. The drag coefficient of many SUV's rival the drag coefficient of a Porsche model from 20-25 years ago. The net effect is the airstream hugs the contours of the vehicle, making it more aerodynamic. When you through a sunroof into the mix and open it up (many can be opened half way to three quarters without adverse effect) it breaks up the airstream and causes the wind noise or `buffeting' that is often heard. If you adjust the opening you should be able to find a range that this will not occur. On our Volvo XC90, it does okay at about 3/4 open.

tummy · September 2003

1sttimevolvo1, thank you for your comment on wind noise due to opening sunroof. My experience is to have passenger side window opened a little bit while sunroof is opened. The wind noise I mentioned in my previous note was the noise seems to come from sunroof while the roof window is firmly closed. In the case of my wife's MM, the engine noise is pretty quiet. The wind noise is, however, suddenly loud when speed is over 35~40 MPH. I wonder it maybe also caused by sunroof. Theoretically, the sunroof weaken the stiffness of the roof of the body though the window is closed.

ANT14 · September 2003

Try a sunroof wind deflector, that might help quite the noise while closed, as well as while open. Sidenote: A sunroof shouldn't weaken the structure of the vehicle considering it's a hole made in what would be usually panel of steel. And crossmembers of the roofing system aren't lessened or weakened by this.

Ironically you mention this as my friend heard a "squeak" (that I later fixed) caused by 2 interior plastic panels rubbing against each other. A noise that could ONLY be heard if the radio was turned off, and the A/C turned off as well, and for this she was going nuts for days asking me to figure out what it was. YET at no time does she find her screaming brat annoying, and is moreso concerned over the noise of this particular body panel... go figure

hwydave · September 2003

I am quite picky about the mechanic that service my cars and with all the problems (mostly small annoying ones) that Explorer has, I try to find a good mechanic ASAP.

1sttimevolvo1 · September 2003

Wade,

Does your MM have adjustable cross-bars on the roof rack. It's possible to get some wind noise depending on what position they are in. Try moving them to different locations and see what effect this has on the airstream.

aiuto · September 2003

My dad owns a 2000 Explorer and has a problem where the 4wd and 2wd lights blink simultaneously. Does anyone know what causes this and the possible fix. The ford dealer wants $75 to put it on the computer and that I'm assuming is just the start.

Thanks. I can be reached here or: aiuto@att.net

edoinlv · September 2003

I am experiencing a loud howling sound from the rear of the vehicle which typically happens after driving at least 1/2 hr and happens intermittently. At first I thought it was coming from my speakers then the suspension but finally isolated the problem to be with the AC. I have rear ac on this vehicle but still happens when the rr ac is off. The local LM dlr could not fix it because they couldn't duplicate the problem. NATURALLY!! So I appeal to all you loyal MM owners to see whether you experienced similar problems and if so what the fix is.
Thanks,
Ed

nvbanker · September 2003

Ed: the problem you are describing is indemic to the Aviator more than the MM, but no reason it couldn't be an issue with your MM, since the component making the noise is the same. It's your pumpkin (differential), though it often sounds like a rear air problem. Since you have the problem with the rear air off, that should be a clue that you're sniffing the wrong bone there.

Tell your dealer to check the differential or replace it. They should have a TSB out on it by now.

explorerx4 · September 2003

my explorer has the same issue. to me it sounds like the fuel pump is humming. when i do hear it, i can hear it with my foot pressing the accelerator. it goes away when i let off. doesn't happen all the time though.
had a wind noise when i first got it, but siliconed the door seals, and after a while it went away.
tires are noisy too, gy's, so i'm replacing them after my next road trip.
after a year, actually got a whiff of of leather from the seats!
i'll skip all the plusses; overall, it's a great vehicle to own.

nvbanker · September 2003

Has anybody run across a TSB on this problem yet?

edoinlv · September 2003

I forgot to mention that it also happens when the car is stopped as well, so do you think it is the differential ???
Thanks,
Ed

edoinlv · September 2003

Are TSB's available to the public or is that only available for the mechanics.

edoinlv · September 2003

Sorry to bombard with so many queries but I have a couple more to ask.
A local auto wrecker is parting out an 03' MM and of the the parts available I am interested in the class III receiver hitch and the climate control.
Q1:Is it hard to remove the class II hitch for the OE class III one?
Q2:I have the manual ac controls on my 03'MM and wonder if I can simply swap out the control for the digital auto climate control. Does any one know if the connectors are the same?
Thanks,
Ed

stever · September 2003

I'm not sure the service departments like it, but TSB summaries are easily found (we even have them), and the full text is usually available for a price from alldata.com.

You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

Steve, Host

swschrad · September 2003

likely the fan/motor assembly in the rear blower. they're tinny. don't use mine much, so it hasn't worn in all that much. if you get your vehicle back with the "rear fan off" lit in the climate window, be assured they have thoroughly tested the problem, yah sure ya betcha Sven... then

fx4 · September 2003

Looking for some information on performance of 4.0L V-6 versus 4.6L V-8 in 3.73 ratio trailer tow package. Towing and hill climbing? Also interstate ramps and moderate grades and hills?

Gas mileage trade off if any between the two engines, both 4wd ?

Explorer owners might want to look at a new line of halogen low beam headlight capsules called the Sylvania XV series. Probably would be 9006XV for the regular or low beam for the Explorer.
9005XV for high beams probably not needed due to good output of OEM 9005 halogens. See earlier post under Ford Expedition Problems for more details of my experience, low cost, long bulb life, much improved low beam light for the Expedition due to the Sylvania 9006XV over the OEM 9006..

nvbanker · September 2003

I have the 4.0L in both my Explorer and Mountaineer, and it's "adequate" for the truck. IMO, however, it's NOT adequate for towing anything at all. My advice, get the 4.6L. It makes the truck a lot more fun, much better at towing, and the trade off of the 4 MPG you'll lose is worth it to me.

swschrad · September 2003

sorry, but, no. I've done it. a half-empty U-haul cube is too much for a standard engine on just about any car. not only is the engine barely up to the task, and that assumes that the 0-60 times in the five-minute area are acceptable to you merging into traffic, but you get a stronger transmission on most tow cars with the big engine.

you will also find you are useless on the road until you lock out the overdrive when you have a tow on. it is absolutely required that you lock out OD.

I also seriously urge you to buy with the factory trailer package installed as well. that insures the brakes, tranny, and electrical system are beefed up as required, and you get extra oil and transmission coolers to reduce to insignificant the chance of overheating damage. you will also have the appropriate wiring harness extended back to the cargo area and appropriate relays installed to protect the signalling system.

if you move one kid to college once a year with the towing package on and the big engine installed, it's still worth it. one or two times in the lifetime of the truck, say, hooking an 8x6 stake trailer up to bring end tables or a mattress home from the furniture store, you might get away with stock standard running gear. but you won't like the way the truck handles, the lack of power, and maybe even the iffy character of the brakes with that extra weight in back.

ANT14 · September 2003

I'll use my engineering friends advice, ALWAYS go with the highest/largest possible engine. In the end, it'll last you longer (being it works much less), and fuel milage wise, the EALITY DATA: for the fuel mileage for the V6 will be the same with the V8, and this is from personal experience.

nvbanker · September 2003

Well, I can tell ya, I sure miss the V-8's I had in our prior 2 Mountaineers. I got the six in the 02, only because we bought the first one the dealer took delivery of (right off his patio), and the 8's were not yet available at the time. Thought it would be ok. My wife doesn't care, and it's really her car, so it is ok, but when I drive, it, I hate it. Next one, if there is one, will have the 8.

fx4 · September 2003

Thanks to all for the subsequent comments.

lrmet2 · September 2003

I got my Mountaineer stuck this weekend, and it surprised me that the 4X4 is the same drive train that is on the Explorer. I have an 02 Mountaineer and I used to own a 91 Explorer. When I got stuck the front wheel was no use, so the back wheel spun on the drivers side, and the front wheel on the passenger side spun (it was in the air, I was in a bad way). The dealer told me this was a different 4X4 system, fully automatic that would detect slippage on one side of the axle and engage the other side. That isn't how it works! In reverse the passenger side rear wheel and driver side front wheel are in gear, the other two don't provide any movement. In forward its the other two. It's the same as the Explorer without the control knobs. Has anyone else run into this? Is there something I could have done to make the wheel on the other side engage?

swschrad · September 2003

I have heard the 02 mounties had an AWD/lockup-4WD drive system, it became an option this year on the exploder. still don't think it's 50/50 system, front I understand is still about 30% of max power and rears 100 to 70 % max power.

if you were in lockup, you may have spun two wheels, front and rear, but the other two should have been pulling at the same rate.

so either that was an optional drive on the 02, or I got suckered when I asked about it.

explorerx4 · September 2003

my new gen explorer with towing package, defaults to an awd system that is mostly rear drive. when the rear wheels spin the fronts kick in. there are 3 buttons: 4x4 auto, 4x4 high, 4x4 low.
have v8 with 3.73 rear end, average between 15-18 mpg. don't think a v6 can get bewteen 19-22.
nvbanker; am i interpreting wrong?
vacation trips with thule box on the roof rack, four bicycles out back(didn't want to write 4 bikes, some would have thought 4 harleys), 4 people and all that stuff for a week, are a piece of cake at any speed you care to drive.

lrmet2 · September 2003

I was told the rear had a lock up when one side spun. This isn't how it works. I don't know how to engage the lockup, but a spinning wheel on the other side would seem to be the perfect time to do it. Put the Explorer in auto drive and that's what the Mountaineer has, only no button to control it. Believe me, both of the rear tires don't spin before the front tires spin. One rear tire spins, then one front tire spins. I would love it both the back tires would engage. It's really a two wheel drive system, one wheel in back, if that one slips, it engages one wheel in front.

swschrad · September 2003

just put straight gear oil in them. then you will be able to lay rubber until you shred your shift servoes, and spin on sand all day long.

every vehicle I have seen or heard of, though, that has a locking diff also has a demand control to lock and unlock it. that's because you are creating a seriously different type of wheel geometry, and if you are locked up and taking turns, you are going to scrape rubber, hop the outer wheels and have control problems, or push the tire over the rim on the outside if you're going too fast, and roll overs result.

the reason is that you cut different-diameter arcs during a turn with the inside and outside wheels. this makes the wheels run at different speeds. locked axles can't do that. before the differential, which was built to allow the outer wheel to slip against its drive force when it couldn't follow the same arc as the inside wheel, you had tire life issues from scrubbing as well as scummy rubber... as well as control issues at speed in turns. LS diffs allow some drive power to the "other" wheel when one of the wheels starts spinning freely. the half-shafts of the front drive should be on an LS diff if your backs are. I don't know if any of the front diffs are standard, not LS. I do know I had nasty fluid in both front and rear, and needed LS friction modifier in both of mine.

if you don't have the extra switches, you have the standard AWD, I fear. limited-slip on the rear axle was an option on my 2000, and without that as well as the front drive, you can indeed get into a one-wheel pull situation with only one underpowered front wheel running some percentage of 30% of the max power of the drivetrain.

I would ask the dealer 'zactly what's up on this. if you're supposed to have the LS axle, drain and refill with the correct 4-ounce tube of friction modifier added, and have the front diff and transfer case checked as well.

mrblonde49 · September 2003

I got an excellent deal on my mountaineer. Got roughly 10,500-11,500k in rebates with a fixed rate. Ended up paying somewhere to the tune of 26-27k out the door for a V8 premier. <<

Can you elaborate? How's does the 10-11K in rebates break down? I qualify for GM supplier and have a $1000 Olds owner rebate. If I can get one at the prices you are saying, I'll go down there tomorrow.

sadatx · September 2003

Greetings,

Was just quoted $36,5XX (MSRP is $41,XXX)for a 2K3 Explorer Limited with:

V8
Entertainment system
sunroof

Pretty much fully loaded. Will be taking the 0% financing. Color is pearl white. Is this a good deal?

Thanks.

swschrad · September 2003

almost got it, but there was rail rash on top of the drivers door on the one I looked at, and didn't want to play in that sandbox. also, pearl touch-ups are the devil if you get scratches and chips, it's a directional paint.

sounds like a standard no-discounts deal to me, IMHO, but that's the modern price of what I paid in 2000 because of some extras that came with the dealer I bought from... lifetime loaners, no-screw policies, competent help, and a good service and parts operation. with the 0 percent, that's acceptable. for June. I would expect another couple thousand off at least for EOY.

on the other hand, the V8 is a good engine and not stocked in depth by dealers, and the factory entertainment system is probably also a limited option... they figure this one's a cream puff and may not move on the price.

depends on how much you like it, I guess... there are better deals, but maybe you won't find an equivalent car in your area.

one thought... the other reason I didn't take the pearl 2000 was that it had the auto-leveling suspension. that's a cool option if you carry loads... until it breaks. it's way pricey to fix, and that's while the parts are availiable for the first few years. after that, you ride funny forever, or you refit it to the non-auto suspension. figure 3 to 5 years and if the parts are still there, you are in for over a thousand bucks on this gizmo. upwards of 500 dollars if you have to backfit it.

jcat707 · September 2003

I'm going to look at some Explorers tomorrow. Are there any pros or cons for the explorer? What should I look out for?

nvbanker · September 2003

No cons to look for. Get the V-8 if you want to have some fun driving it.

swschrad · September 2003

if you figure on ever towing, also get the factory trailering package. great car, best I've had (mine's a 2000 limited)

newtomb · September 2003

My 17 year old son purchased a 2000 Mountaineer this weekend as it fits his interests of snowboarding and mountain biking.

Yesterday my wife was speaking to someone who highly recommended that he should not have made the purchase because of the following issues:

Differential leaks; Transmission slippage; Front suspension linkages weak and tank issues. Can anyone give an opinion as to whether we should be worried? We can BUY a 3 year/ 36,000 mile warranty from Ford for $1500, should we?

Thanks

djhurle

ANT14 · September 2003

Which engine, is it 4x4?

jrc346 · September 2003

What kind of mileage?

newtomb · September 2003

It has the V8 and is an AWD with less than 39,000.

Thanks

ANT14 · September 2003

You shouldn't have any issues. Typically someone's advice pertaining to a specific vehicle is based on common sense. Example: SUV + towing + rough work + AWD = Strain on AWD and Tranny. This is like someone buying an Econoline van to transport people, can easily warn them about tranny, high fuel consumption, etc. Because it's the most common items that will be overused.

Since it's AWD, it puts more strain onto the drivetrain, but in reality the Explorer/Mounty's aren't known for such issues. And are quite reliable compared to the competition. I would say a "KNOWN" issue would be like Ford's 3.8L V6 with the head-gasket issues of years ago, or the Aerostar's nasty sounding power steering pump. But as Explorer's/Mounty's go, you should be ok.

Of course peace of mind always helps, and if you wish to purchase an extended warranty through Ford, it'll pay itself after the first issue. I personally would NOT because the vehicle is troublesome, but because it's pre-owned and I would have NO idea what the previous owner did to it. As for my vehicles I get rid of, I pitty the person since I over abuse my vehicles.

Overall it was a smart purchase (specially the V8) so don't be too concerned.

okmom · September 2003

I have less than 30,000 miles on this 2000 suv.
They are non-city normal suburban/highway miles.
We were told we need new ones.
Is this normal for 30k miles?
what is the typical RANGE of miles before new ones?
thanks.

brast69 · September 2003

As far as the warranty goes, I would definately purchase it! I did and between 40-50,000 it came in handy. My front transfer/differential/bearings needed to be replaced and was all covered by the extended warranty. you can pay $1500 like you stated or you can purchase it direct for as little as $800-$900. The web site is www.fordesp.com, it lets you choose your deductable options...Hope this helped!

ANT14 · September 2003

Ford ESP is a very good warranty service, I say go with that one.

OKMOM: As for brake pads, I would say yes it's time for them to be replaced. My pads wear out on my LS at 20-25K only because I'm an aggresive driver. Obviously if your dealing with hills, or aggresive situations, it tends to wear down. But from what I see in other friends vehicles (non-Ford related) it's usually around the 30-35K mark as well.

swschrad · September 2003

if you don't, it didn't cost more than a few car washes a year (assuming you own 'em 6 to 10 years like I do.) alternative is to save an "awshucks" fund of 5000 to 8000 dollars as fast as you can, and if you don't dip into it, that plus your trade goes a long way towards a new car. for me, the warranty was my security blanket.

it should be a good truck, my 2000 limited exploder has been a solid performer with a couple tows on it.

as for brakes... I had to do 'em around 22K, and I'm going to have to do 'em again before 50K even with the ceramic pads. that's just life, I'm not that aggressive a driver (I do leave witnesses alive behind me,) but brakes wear. beats having the famous old-time GM brakes that "never die, but just fade away...."

dondilio · September 2003

Hey guys:
I now own a 2003 Ford explorer xlt it haves 20k miles so far no problems to report. I used to have a 2002 which i totaled and im alive thanks to the explorer. That 2002 had 42k miles and i never replaced the pads. dont know why they lasted so long because i do a lot of city driving wich means lot of breaking. im 20 k on the new one and brakes dont show age either.

swschrad · September 2003

I'm kind of dictatorish on brakes and steering... ACHTUNG! Zhere Vill Be Nein Raum Fur Errrrorrr Mit Ze Brakes, JA! I could get oil changes for fourteen bucks, but I keep going to the dealer's quick lane, where they have color-coded width gauges to judge the pad thickness with. that way, every yutz who started this week is going to be able to warn me if my pads are getting dangerous, and most techs will accurately let me know when they're starting to thin out into that marginal area.

the small extra cost is marginal compared to being uninformed.

any good competent mechanic should be doing this, so if you've found one by now, ask to be sure he's checking each time.

glad the car sacrificed itself for you. exploders really are nicely built, and I wish my 2000 had the curtain air bags the new ones offer.

nvbanker · September 2003

As I've posted many times on many boards, we're on our 3rd Mountaineer, so obviously, we like 'em. I think they're the best mid-sized SUV on the road, and I especially like the V-8.

I agree with ANT on both getting the warranty because it is used, and on getting the Ford ESP. I have had great experience with it.

These trucks aren't "known" for specific weaknesses. They are machines, and they break occasionally, but the majority in my experience, will run for a couple hundred thousand miles with routine maintenance and little else.

Your mileage may vary.....

moeharri · September 2003

I just bought a 2003 Explorer XLT with the single CD stereo system. One thing I've noticed is that every time I get in the car, the radio station displays rather than the current time. This is annoying to me and I was wondering if there is a way to default it to display the time? I looked in the manual but didn't see anything. Can anyone help me? Thank you!

nvbanker · September 2003

That isn't normal, so some display default has been overridden inadvertantly, I'd guess. BUT, I have not idea how to de-program them.

gregb5 · September 2003

It is normal for the station to display for a short time after startup, then it should switch to the clock. If it doesn't, try pushing the button marked "clock". That will switch it, maybe for good!

okmom · September 2003

Thanks guys for your opinions.
Okay, we are getting new brake pads.
Do we have to go to the dealer?
How about the local mechanic who seems honest or how about the national chain brake shops?

Is there any brake pads better than others?

Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier

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