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The dealer called me to tell me I have lots of problems - some of which seem really odd. Maybe some of you can help me understand what all this means.
1) Carbon BuBuild up which, according to the dealer, is usually what you find in cars driven by elderly folks who drive one a week for an hour at 15 miles per hour. I do city driving every day at usually 10 miles over the speed limit, so 35 mph. Also, approximately 15K of the 42K mileage is from long distance driving. So my question is, is this some kind of baloney because I am a a woman who knows NOTHING about cars?
2) Air Induction Dirt - what is this? Do I need to care about this? Do all cars have this?
3) The Number 8 Fuel Injector has simply failed. Why would one injector fail? Is this (often) an indicator that other injectors will fail? That there will be future problems with this vehicle.
4) Front Differential Seal is leaking. I had that odd transmission problem where the factory put the wrong transmission fluid in the car. Once I had the fluid was changed, all of the lurching problems ended. But could this seal be related to that? (At the moment, when the car is in drive and you are stopped at a light the car has this little bouncing feeling to it - I guess it is often referred to as a rough idle.)
5) All my spark plugs have to be replaced.
6) Coils need to be replaced - the dealer was not very specific about this and I was so shocked that I have so many problems with the car that I stopped taking notes....
The dealer quoted me about $1300.00 to fix these problems. I am worried that I might be flushing my money down the toilet because :1) I have only had the car for exactly two years next week, 2) it does not have a great number of miles on it (most of my family's Fords have been largely problem free until 80/90k) but it has problems, 3) it had that factory transmission problem. Could this mean that the car is turning into a lemon?...
Thanks for any help/comments!
Illia
i just got underneath my '02 explorer and replacing the seal for the differential cover is not a big deal.
i'm guessing the 'neer isn't much different. do you see any spots underneath it?
'air induction dirt' could mean the air filter needs to be replaced.
1300 sounds like a high number.
As for maintenance - I did the routine recommended maintenance at a/the dealer and then fairly regularly got the oil changed at Jiffy Lube.
I've never seen any spots underneath the car.
I called the dealer back and asked him some follow up questions and he told me that all of my problems - excepting the differential leak - result from water in my engine corroding the fuel injector, the coils, the spark plugs, etc. The dealer kept asking me if the car had been in standing water, which it never has been... And why would water only affect parts of my engine and not all of it? This all seems odd.
Thanks for the advice on the price - I think I am going to take it to another mechanic/dealer for a second opinion.
Or to anyone else out there - and ideas on what to do about this?
Very annoying.
It is really annoying me.
Did you ever have any luck solving problem?
I will update tomorrow, last day they are going to try this time, if they are successful.
Found a TSB # 01-22-3 that covered it. Dealer ordered parts - Will update once the valve body is changed. See the TSB attached below.
A/T - Buzzing Noise When Torque Converter Engaged
Article No.
01-22-3
11/12/01
^ NOISE - BUZZING NOISE FROM THE
TRANSMISSION WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER
IS ENGAGED - VEHICLES PRODUCED 11/15/2000
THROUGH 11/11/2001 EQUIPPED WITH 4.6L
ENGINE AND 5R55W TRANSMISSION ONLY
^ TRANSMISSION - 5R55W - BUZZING NOISE FROM
THE TRANSMISSION WHEN THE TORQUE
CONVERTER IS ENGAGED - VEHICLES PRODUCED
11/15/2000 THROUGH 11/11/2001 EQUIPPED WITH
4.6L ENGINE ONLY
FORD:
2002 EXPLORER
MERCURY:
2002 MOUNTAINEER
ISSUE
Some vehicles built prior to 11/11/2001 equipped with 5R55W and 4.6L engine, may exhibit a buzzing noise when the torque converter is engaged and the transmission fluid temperature is between 38-66°C (100-150 °F). This may be caused by a high velocity of fluid flow in the Main Control.
ACTION
Verity that the condition exists using the procedure listed. If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control will need to be replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS.
1. To verity that the condition exists with the vehicle, first connect a tachometer to the engine if the vehicle is not already equipped.
2. Install an NGS or equivalent and monitor the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT).
3. Start the engine and drive the vehicle.
4. When the TFT reaches 38°C (100 °F), maintain a constant speed of about 80 km/h (50 mph) to engage the converter. Tap the brake pedal with the left foot. Engine RPM should increase when the brake pedal has been tapped, and decrease after about five seconds after the pedal is released.
5. Maintaining a constant vehicle speed, allow the torque converter to re-engage.
6. Listen for the Torque Converter Clutch buzzing noise. Is the noise present?
^ If yes, continue with the verification.
^ If no, follow normal diagnosis as listed in the Workshop Manual, the Main Control is not the problem.
7. Continue to bring the transmission to operating temperature above 66°C (150°F). This may be accomplished by driving the vehicle for 15 to 20 minutes.
8. After normal operating temperature is reached, maintain a constant speed of about 80 km/h (50 mph) to engage the converter. Tap the brake pedal with the left foot. Engine RPM should increase when the brake pedal has been tapped, and decrease after about five seconds after the pedal is released.
9. Maintaining a constant vehicle speed, allow the torque converter to re-engage.
10. Listen for the Torque Converter Clutch buzzing noise. Has the noise disappeared?
^ If yes, continue.
^ If no, follow normal diagnosis as listed in the Workshop Manuals, the Main Control is not the problem.
11. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.
NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS ARTICLE.
12. Replace the Main Control 1L2Z-7A100-CA and Fluid Filter 1L2Z-7A098-AC. Follow the steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Main Control Valve Body, to remove and replace.
13. Verify the condition has been corrected.
14. Clear all DTCs
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
012203A Verify Conditions And 2.6 Hrs.
Replace Transmission
Main Control
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
7A100 42
OASIS CODES: 504000, 702000
What other things does the GEM control so that I can be on the lookout for anything else that may fail in the future? I imagine it would be pretty much all of the electronic functions in the dash, right? :confuse:
any suggestions would be appreciated.
Paul
My next repair is the ?
This car makes a groaning noise when I turn corners especially when it is warmed up. When I drive straight no problems. Any suggestions?
I fear driveshaft or CV joints. Any idea how much these things cost?
I've called Ford/Mercury about issuing one for the Mountaineer and they said they haven't. My only thought is that they are waiting for more people to complain before they issue a recall.
So, if you haven't called Ford to report your problem, please do, so we can all get this fixed.
my '02 explorer has the same issue, and it is not extremely rare. how many vehicles it happens to, i have no idea. i even remember hearing it go 'crack'.
it is purely cosmetic. the painted panel is not structural, so don't get too worried about any safety issue. i stuck a piece of duck tape over it for 6 months or so, until my wife and kids broke me down with complaints.
my story is that i am very faithful(service every 3k) to the dealer i bought my explorer from and they did and 'after warranty adjustment(awa)'. your vehicle is eligible for 6 years or 75k miles, but it is pretty much completely up to the dealer to step up to the plate for you.
i bought my first vehicle from the dealer in 1990 and this awa was in 2006.
it's about a 450-500 repair.
since the kids have been driving for the last couple years, the panel has some scratches on it anyway.
Like so many others that I have read about - the crack simply appeared on a cold day. I was driving when it happened and heard a sort of crack sound from the rear and when I stopped and looked - there it was. So it's not as if someone smacked it in the parking lot or anything like that. Cold weather seems to put enough thermal stress on this part to cause it to crack like a dropped egg.
Now I have been scouting the parking lots and roads for cracked liftgates - and they are out there!! Bunches of 'em!!!