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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ebpebp Posts: 2
    I BOUGHT A 99 JGC 4 WEEKS AGO AND IT HAS BEEN IN WITH CARMAX. THAT IS WHERE I BOUGHT IT FROM. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH IT SINCE I GOT IT. FIRST IT WAS SWAY BRACING, THEN THE SHOCKS WERE BAD IN THE BACK. NOW THERE IS A NOISE COMING FROM SOMEWHERE ON THE VEHICLE WHEN IT REACHES 40 MPH. CARMAX HAS TOLD ME THAT IT IS JUST TIRE NOISE. I HAVE ASKED 4 DIFFERENT PEOPLE WHAT IT COULD BE AND THEY ALL HAVE SAID THE SAME THING. THEY HAVE SAID THAT IT COULD BE THERE DIFFERENTIAL, OR THE TRANSFER CASE. I HAVE TAKEN TO A MECHANIC AND THEY HAVE TOLD ME THE SAME THING. I TOOK IT BACK TO CARMAX AND THEY WILL NOT FIX IT BECAUSE THEY HAVE TAKEN IT TO A DEALERSHIP THAT THEY DEAL WITH. THE DEALERSHIP HAS SAID THAT THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. WHAT SHOULD I DO? SHOULD I TAKE IT TO ANOTHER DEALER AND GET THEM TO LOOK AT IT? IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT SHOULD I GET CARMAX TO PAY FOR IT TO GET FIXED? DO I HAVE ANY LEGAL OPTIONS THAT I CAN PRESS ONTO CARMAX IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY VEHICLE? SOMEONE LET ME KNOW AS SOON AS POSSIBLE :mad: :lemon:
  • jfajfa Posts: 5
    Sounds like it to me. I felt it clunk in the steering wheel and right under my feet. The side that broke was on the driver's side. But sometimes it was hard to tell which side the noise was coming from. I would definitely check the sway bars. If you are mechanically inclined, they aren't in a difficult place to get to. But a shop could fix it fairly quickly.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Hi, ebp!

    Welcome to edmunds.com!

    People tend to ignore postings written in all CAPS (they are hard to read) so I advise turning off CAPS LOCK on your pc when creating a message.

    tidester, host
  • ebpebp Posts: 2
    I bought a 99 JGC 4 weeks ago and it has been with CARMAX for 2 of the weeks. That is where I bought it from. I have had nothing but problems with it since i purchased it. First it was the sway bracing, Then the shocks in the back were bad. Now there is a humming/ winding noise coming from somewhere on the vehicle. CARMAX told me that it was only tire noise. I have asked 4 different people what it could be and they have all told me the same thing.They have said that it could be the differential of the transfer case.I have taken it to a mechanic and they have told me the same thing. I have it in writing form the mechanic. I took it back to CARMAX and they will not fix it because they didn't believe that there was anything wrong with it, so they took it to the dealership that they deal with for JEEPS.The dealership says that there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. What should i do?Should i take it to another dealership that i have talken to and get them to take a look at it?If there is something wrong with it should i get CARMAX to foot the bill?Do I have any legal grounds on this situation if there is somthing wrong with my JEEP?Some let me know as soon as possible. :mad: :lemon:
  • I wrote this earlier and I have to apologize, I did use one profane word (because I am frustrated with this jeep)- sorry about that. Here is the revised post.
    Here is what I have to say about their pitch RE: warning lights- IE: Check engine light- baloney... cant alway rely on that, because it does not always come on if there is a problem! That is exactly what they told me, well if you your check engine light isn't on, then the vehichle is running fine... yeah right- 2 days later, NOT, it was stuck in reverse. I have had it in numerous times, but at least 2 times the check engine light was not on, and it was a major prob, and the check engine light SHOULD have been on. The problem is they depend too much on the jeeps' sensors and. those go bad just as often. Not to mention the computer does not always pick up the problem either, but I was told there is a hand held computer they can use while road testing it- hopefully we can try that next. If you have had your jeep in 3 times for the same problem, then check your states lemon law, especially if the one of the 3 trips occurred within the first 12,000 miles or one year which ever comes first. But, lemon laws differ for each state, California has great lemon law protection for the consumer. I now have a lawyer and he has filed suit. I didnt pay for a used, problematic vehichle- which by the way I bought it new, and these SUV's are not cheap. You sure have lived in a lot of places- I have relatives in Phoenix. Good luck w/your jeep!
  • I have to bring my jeep back in on Thurs of this week. Would anyone have any suggestions and/or ideas why my jeep will not downshift while going up hills? It used to have great power on hills, but now when I am traveling at 45mph for ex. if I try to increase my speed and have the pedal all the way to the floor it wont go any faster and loses a bit of speed. (This is not consistant). Also, when I put the jeep in neutral while stopped- I hear a loud hissing/spinning noise? Once again not consistant. Would love some feedback, thanks!!! Oh and there is a clunking noise when it goes into reverse as well. This is a 2003 JGC Laredo with 28,000 miles. Tranny has already been partially rebuilt at 26,500 miles. Could my engine be misfiring or having probs?
  • rjwrjw Posts: 1
    Hi, I bought a brand new 04 JGC in the fall of 03. It made a whining noise from the start. The head mechanic at the dealership told me they all made that noise. (should've asked to hear others on the lot) A year later we were having the power steering pump replaced. (under warranty) Never liked how it sounded when going into overdrive when accelerating, like passing someone, cruise control up hill, etc. NOW at 25,000 miles, it shudders real bad when you slow down to brake, and then when you finally come to a stop. I believe it is the ABS. So I am disappointed in my first new vehicle in many years. Oh, there is a place on the hood where the paint is peeling off.
  • Sorry to hear you have had problems already with your 2004- but it doesn't surprise me unfortunately. Just curious, what does your jeep do when you climb hills, does it kick real hard (like a punching feeling) to pick up speed? Thats what mine has done and not sure why- they told me it was normal, but that cant be good for the tranny and/or engine? Sounds like your rotors might be bad, which is very common with the jeeps.
  • Yo! Has anybody ever tried to remove the front rotors from their late-model JGC? Please see item #1079. Any advice you folks may have about this would be most helpful. Thanks! :)
  • :cry: Hi, I cant seem to figure out how to reset the tune-up reminder in the center console for Grand Cherokee 1995 Limited (the console that also shows which 4X4 mode your on and which door are open, etc)

    The manual states that I should press the select then the set button for a least 2 seconds during starting. Didn`t work.

    I also tried pressing the 2 buttons before turning the ignition on, but the display goes into a diagnostic mode.

    I also tried going into the setup menu, and change the interval between tune-up, that didn`t reset the reminder neither.

    I find that feature very useful, and would apreciate any help...

    Pat
  • Here is the warranty for my 2003 Laredo, which has the warping rotor problem. I can't wait to dump this piece of junk...

    The Basic Limited Warranty lasts for 36 months from
    the date it begins or for 36,000 miles on the odometer,
    whichever occurs first. But the following items are
    covered only for 12 months or for 12,000 miles on the
    odometer, whichever occurs first:
    • brakes (rotors, pads, linings, and drums);
    • wiper blades;
    • clutch discs; and
    • windshield and rear window
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Bowser,
    Are you sure you got the spark plug wires on in the correct order? It could be that or you don't have the spark plug wires all the way on the spark plugs. The fact that the idle problem started right after changing the plugs indicates you have a problem with either the order they were put on or they're not on all the way.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    I removed the rotors on a '00 Laredo...but it was 2 wheel drive. There were 3 little nut like disks that kept the rotor on. Once I removed those they came of easily and the replacements from AutoZone went right back on. I had more difficulty getting the calipers off...had to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to get them loose the first time since I guess the air wrench at the factory put them on real tight.

    I have not looked at a 4 wheel drive GC, it may have an entirely different setup that the 2 wheel drive.
  • bowserbowser Posts: 3
    Quite sure, Paule. I've had these guys off and on multiple times with no problems. They seem to be fine. Since the time that I posted this I have also put in a new PCM, Idle Air Control Valve and Cam Position Sensor -- nothing improved. It seems that the problem is related to either the cam or crank sensor giving intermittent signals. Right now I have the entire wiring harness out on the garage floor and I'm going through each wire looking for any problems -- not my favorite way to spend time.
  • Thanks wlbrown9. Actually, I finished the job this morning. Turns out the rotors were just rusted on. I took my handy 3lb drill hammer and a wooden drift and just beat the snot out of them until they popped off. The rest of the job was a snap.
    :)
  • iceref63iceref63 Posts: 3
    I just got my 2001 back from the shop today. 47K currently on it. We bought the extended 7\100 warranty and they still told me it was not covered under warranty. Told me would be about $700 to fix and service man told me he sees this all the time. Will let you know what happens after I discuss this with DailmerChrysler Customer Service. Seems this is a big problem.
  • iceref63iceref63 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem, 47K on mine and I did buy the extended warranty only to be told it was "not covered". I would suggest calling the regional manager and see what he says. This should not be a normal wear and tear item. Will let you know later the outcome of mine.
  • iceref63iceref63 Posts: 3
    I have the exact same problem (2001 JGC with 47K)and even have 7\100 Added Care Plus warrant. Of course, does not specifically mention blend air doors. What did you end up doing? I am going to speak with DC customer service and see what they can do.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Hhhmmm, sorry to hear that. The wiring harness deal that is.
    Electrical gremlins can be the most challenging kind to fix. Sorry I can't be of more help.
    I have heard of silicone sealant screwing up O2 sensors but even that shouldn't affect a cam\crank sensor.
  • Just to let you all know, it wasn't the tie rods or the sway bars....It was the mounting brackets for the frame.....they were loose.....he fixed it for free.....Sweet.... :)
  • bowserbowser Posts: 3
    Me too. I pulled the entire wiring harness out and checked every circuit connected to either the cam or crank sensor. It actually appeared the 5V source from the PCM might have been the problem. When I touched a splice junction of 5 wires I saw the resistance fluctuate pretty significantly. After cutting the old mess open and creating a new junction the fluctuation disappeared. I just finished putting all the wires back and I pulled the plugs to clean them before trying to start the engine again -- two of the brand new plugs had cracks through the ceramic. I'll replace them, cross my fingers and have an answer in a few hours. Hopefully this will end the saga ...
  • It has 55,000 miles. I found it on Autotrader.com on a car lot in Tampa. Some of the Autotrader ads had a similar service to Carfax called AutoCheck by Experian. I signed up and paid for unlimited checks for 30 days and ran a report on the vehicle. It showed no accidents and no major problems. It was identified as a fleet vehicle from Carrollton, TX and showed basically the dates of purchase, auto auction, etc. The car lot identified it as a one owner lease turn in, so it seemed to all check out. I looked at a variety of SUVs and researched reliability and safety. Although prior years of the vehicle had problems, the 2002 appeared to be the best choice.

    Western General is a warranty company that is not associated with D/Chry. It was offered by the car lot and they gave us a 3,000 or 3 months warranty. I was interested in extending the warranty after it expires, but will mot definitely not spend the money on Western General's. I checked with the Better Business Bureau and they had an average score and have made good on some complaints. I suppose the next step is to file one myself. If that does not work, I want to contact the media and pursue this further.

    The total repair was over $3600. It runs great now and shifts smoothly, but when one considers an engine getting broken in at 30,000, needing a new transmission at 55,000 seems absurd.
  • cinpozcinpoz Posts: 1
    My jeep is acting like it is not getting gas. It started kind of rough the other day, but ran fine all the way home. Tried to start it about 1 hour later, and it wouldnt start, acting like it wasnt getting gas. It started the next day, but again was a little rough. Went about 3 miles to gas station, filled it up, started it up fine, went about 3 more miles, shut it off, and that is where it still sits. It will not start. We tried spraying some starting fluid which got it to start, but it wouldnt stay running. I have seen a few similar messages to this problem, but I cant seem to find any responses to the questions. Is there another fuel filter between the one in the fuel tank and the engine? Can someone give me a starting point on where to go? Thanks
  • sbgmdsbgmd Posts: 2
    First quick things...

    Is there pressure in the fuel line? There's a pressure check point with a small cap and a valve like that on a tire you can attach a pressure sensor to - located near the middle of the engine, drivers side (obviously part of fuel delivery) - you could press it manually to see if you get a spray but you need to protect with towel and not allow it to spill - if pressure it will spray out so cover over and protect from this - get a tester if at all possible.

    Turn the key to the ON position (just before the point of turning it over), can you hear the fuel pump initialize? Should be a short (2 sec or so) hum coming from the back...
  • kerihuelkerihuel Posts: 2
    Did you ever fix your problem? I have a problem now that my 1994 Grand Cherokee will not start after running for awhile. I just started working on the problem yesterday and replaced plugs, rotor, distributor cap, wires and air filter and the problem remains. It just would not start yesterday when I stopped at the store. The coil lead was obviously bad and corroded so I got another one and after I put it on the engine started again with a little coaxing. I thought that was the problem but after replacing the above components it still is hard to start and will not start at all after I run it for awhile. The machine has been fabulous, 282,000 miles with the same engine and drive train and I have been able to do all my own maintenance for the last 6 years.

    This is the first time I am using a forum so I am not certain how I get your response but you can email me directly at e.smith@gematech.com.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,861
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  • kerihuelkerihuel Posts: 2
    The vehicle had been sitting for a few hours, checked fuel pressure (don’t know how much) by turning ignition on, pressing valve to relieve pressure and did it a few times. Not certain how much gas is supposed to come out but it was not much. The engine started after about 5 seconds of cranking and with a fair mount of smoke, as if there was too much fuel. After I warmed it to operating temperature I turned it off and tried it again. I was able to get it started by pressing a number of times on the accelerator and that is odd for this car because I have always cautioned my wife about not pressing on the Accelerator and it generally starts in about a second or two. Something odd is happening with the RPM after it starts to run. I hold down the accelerator to 1500 RPM and it drops on it’s own to 1000. The other things I noticed leading up to it stopping was right after starting, there was sometimes surges in RPM, and while driving there was sometimes a hesitation when I took my foot off the accelerator. I believe I am closing in on it being a fuel delivery problem and I certainly will have to replace the fuel filter next. Anyone have any other ideas please let me know.

    I have read some of the other stories in this forum about jeep performance but I have only 18,000 more miles to go before I get to 300,000 miles with the same engine, transmission and drive train and want it to be the first vehicle that I have driven 300,000 miles. We have been doing house restorations and it has been to the dumps more times than I can remember hauling heavy concrete as well as brush and it has never let me down. I think it is absolutely incredible that an automatic transmission could have lasted so long under those conditions.
  • Ok, unfortunately I have stumbled onto this wonderful site AFTER I purchased my
    ' 99 JGC Laredo (has been almost one year since purchase).....seeing all you other people dealing with warped rotors, brake issues with these vehicles as I was just lucky enough to encounter this problem now also. Had Jeep in shop on Friday and my mechanic stated he just had another Jeep in about a month ago for the same problem as I was experiencing (pulsating brake pedal when applying brakes,front end shaking terriblely when applying brakes coming down from about 60mph) he replaced rotors on the other JGC and in a month the guy was back in the shop with the same problem again,finally after returning again in another month after 2 rotor replacements my mechanic began doing some research and found out about this defective brake/rotor issue with Jeeps. Luckily,I didn't have to go thru all that since now he knows about the problem when it came time to repair my JGC he said there is some type of new caliper replacement part that is supposed to fix the old problem with the rotors so that I will not have to return to the shop in a month with warped rotors again. He said ,of course,Jeep is not saying that it is a defective part issue(in which they would be dishing out big bucks for repairs) but that instead they are just telling people to replace with this much more expensive part. So I paid out almost 500 bucks for this so called better replacement part. Mechanic told me to write a letter to Jeep complaining but somehow after reading about all you other folks also having this problem,somehow I dont think I will get very far with a letter to Jeep. Has anyone else tried to pursue this legally with Jeep seeking reimbursement?I mean,so many Jeep owners having the same problem,seems to me to be defective quality. Any advice????
    Oh PS....I was wondering why my steering wheel makes that screeching noise on turns also sometimes... had it checked into and was told that it was nothing also... had no idea it was another "Jeep thing".I am going to try and stay positive though,like I said I am just coming up on my 1 yr anniversary of the purchase and the only other thing that I have had go wrong with it (besides this brake thingy) was some kind of modular piece for when the fan kept running and wouldn't shut off. She has 56,000 miles on it,is a 1999,and well I just hope I didn't buy a mechanics best friend..... thanks for any advice that is offered in response to my post :)
  • jpoolejpoole Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am experiencing the same problem. I had the brushings changed and new tie rod which seemed to fix the problem for a while, but 3-4 weeks later I hit a bump in the road and the 'death wobble' returned.

    Any solution found yet?
  • nmertznmertz Posts: 27
    5 or 6 years ago my son had a 88 Comanche truck with a violent front-end shimmy evry time he hit a bump. Numerous alignments no help. With +100k on it, I told the local DLR to go through the entire front suspension. I'm working strictly on memory here, and there have been a lot of brain cells killed off since then (LOL), but it seems when I told them what it was doing, they said it sounded like a worn control arm(?). They replaced the control arm and it was solid as a rock until he totaled the truck 2 years later. It's worth checking into.
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