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My 93 GCL, which has had many, many issues in the past, :lemon: and currently has many other issues...is now leaking transmission fluid like there is no tomorrow. Most days there is a 3'x3' section of fluid on the driveway at home or work after it has sat all day...however, it seems to have an endless supply of fluid. Owners manual states it has a 10qt. capacity....I have only had to add 1 qt. in the weeks it's been leaking..it's started as a very slow leak about 2 months ago.
I took it to Bob Sumerel last Friday, hoping it would just be a seal or something around $300 or less.... they told me the transfer case and the transmission seals were leaking. To repair the seals the whole tranny would have to be pulled and with the amount of labor I may as well have the tranny rebuilt. $2500-3500 for everything. This poor girl has 200K miles on her already.. Not to mention I owe money on the beast..
I am taking it to another shop wednesday for a 2nd opinion. Everyone thinks it should/could be done cheaper. I have no idea. It already has many other issues that need addressed that I just can't afford to deal with. :sick: So if this issue is gonna really run more than say $600.....I'm gonna have to sell it and cut my losses, as much as I don't want to.
Does that quote sound high for a rebuilt transmission? Are the seals really that difficult to get to? I get crazy price ranges from talking to all kinds of people...need some input. Thanks so much!
This car has cost me way too much in spares.....but I still love it. This forum is great, best wishes and Go USA!
I hope it is just a door open/close sensor.
:confuse:
I am asking you jeephemi, would there be away to get everyone with the problem together? I see alot of people on forums, complaining about it.
Our stuttering, bucking and hesitations, are not the same problem as some of the others. Our transmission is different, we have the 545rfe not the one with water in it(nag1). Our problem must be way deeper 'cause they won't even turn a nut or bolt to try and fix it! The 2005 Jeep hemi problem does not have a TSB. I wish it did. I just want to make that clear. But I am still totally, upset. I have no words to describe how upset...Like no sleep..upset..like my wife don't want to hear about it anymore upset......day after day.
I am experiencing the same problem on a 94 JGC 4X4 Lim with 160K on it?
The relay didn't seem to be bad, so I after staring at a "few" wiring diagrams I think the problem is at the Security System Module which, as far as I can tell, is located somewhere in the car.
Somehow when the Brakes get warn the tend to get into a bind. It wouldnt hurt to replace the rotors either while your at it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I have a 99 JGC and had the exact same problem, but with the drivers side. This problem was always intermittent, but now it's only warm air and doesn't change. The only way to fix the problem would be to take your dash apart and get to the heater assembly. The problem is that your blend door is stuck in one position. You can get the error codes by doing the following: Turn your key to the on position and hold down the A/C and Circulate buttons at the same time. Then turn one of your temp dials clockwise. This will make the display flash some codes. I think mine showed 19, 42 and 52. I found these codes in the Haynes manual. The codes read something like Door travel is too small. 50% or the dealer cost will be for the labour to take apart your dash. The other is for a new assembly. If you or a friend are mechanically inclined just get to the door and find out what's causing it to get stuck. I'm working on mine this weekend and I'll let you know.
:confuse:
Mac
sincerly, jkram
Good luck man. Hope this helps.
Simple, the Keyless Entry Module blew up. The Keyless Entry is a circuit board located in the overhead console/dome light. When it blew up it sent a signal to the Interior Light Module (located in glove box panel) telling it that the 'Unlock' button was constantly being pushed, so the lights were always on.
You know how you hit the unlock button and the dome light comes on.
It was also telling the Security Alarm Module (also in glove box) the doors were unlocked (constantly), so the security was never armed, even when you hit the electronic door lock.
When I removed the cajun style (blackened) Keyless entry module, everything returned back to normal. Now all I have to do is see if I can get the dealer to get me a new one.
Some tricks are to never turn the wheel all the way until it stops and to not turn the wheel while the car is not moving.
If you have already checked the belt and it is not noticably loose these tricks should help.
If you know it is not the belt then I do not have any suggestions, except that I am pretty sure the steering pump cannot squeal on its own.
DONT SPEND ANY MONEY ON ANYTHING ELSE.
This is a simple problem which I solved by changing the HT coil and TIE wrapping both caps of the HT coil.
This is what fixed my issue after changing a bunch of sensors @ 1200 $.
Presently I am dealing with the Death Wobble.
SUDA
we've blown out 2 mufflers from backfiring. now, we just tolerate the noise because it isn't worth replacing the muffler anymore. it backfires every time at least once or twice. mechanic said replacing the cam shaft pos. sensor should have fixed it, but it hasn't.
we're to the point where we're ready to ditch it or hang ourselves. can anyone please help?
spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor, distributor (which included the cam shaft sensor), catalytic converter and muffler (twice), crank shaft sensor, ignition coal again.
this is in reference to my previous message, #1427
Thanks