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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 97gjcowner97gjcowner Member Posts: 5
    i'm interested in knowing the result (#1357). i'm having the same problem.
  • fjs007fjs007 Member Posts: 2
    HELP ME PLEASE!!! my trans is over heating. sometimes it'll get so hot the overdrive is turning off. its been doing it for a while. i had some radiator problems. had to replace that. then the water pump. everything seems to be going good there now. but trans is still getting to hot. foaming up. tried a additive supposed to lower temp. 57 degrees. stop foaming. its not helping at all. i think i'm going to have to flush it now. but i've done that before. and still over heats. ANY IDEAS?
  • svanschalkwyksvanschalkwyk Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    This is a warranty repair. I have had the evaporator on my 97 GC replaced and it is working fine now. Unfortunately the repair shop (St. Louis, MO) made such a mess of my dashboard and AC system that the case is now in court (2 years after the fact). It cost $900 to have another shop replace the items they messed up.
    Step.
  • corntoegoblincorntoegoblin Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 JGC laredo and i've been having a problem that isn't necessary to the car's function but very annoying to the person getting in and out of the car. on the back right-hand side door and driver door the locks stay in place when i use the stock keyless entry remote, but not when i manually move the lock. the rear one seems to make noise because of the motor trying to do it but the driver side dosen't make any sound what-so-ever. i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and provide with some insight on this problem and maybe no how to fix it.
  • eroderod10379eroderod10379 Member Posts: 2
    I jsut purchased 6/14/05. In less than 48 hours, hole in the radiator. My dealership was world class, they removed a radiator from another JGC on the lot and fixed me up and in teh process let me borrow a Chrysler Crossfire. Nice car. Now the only remaining issue is the passenger-side airbag light keeps going on and the red light indicating such, on the ddashboard, stays lit for about 10 seconds and turns off. ANy ideas about that one issue of the air bag light turning off and then on again with no passenger on the seat itself.
  • jtb1jtb1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    Anyone know what is up with a 2001 JGC where the headlights decide to flash when the vehicle is turned off? It can happen at anytime day or night, when it decides!!! Please give a clue to the problem... :confuse:

    Regards,
    John
  • chumpchump Member Posts: 6
    i have a 94 jgc with a 4 litre 6 cyl. sometimes when strarting whether it is hot or cold , the engine revs up to 2000 rpm and stays there forever or until you put it in gear and drive. anyone ever had this problem or have any suggestions
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Your airbag light is working as intended.
    The '05 JGCs have an OCS (Occupant Classification System) in the right front seat. Basically it is a weight sensor that determines if someone is in that seat and whether it is a full size person or a car seat or child.
    The airbag will turn off unless there is a full size person in that seat.
    Whenever you start your car, the system goes through a self check and the light will light for 10 seconds as a bulb check.
  • eroderod10379eroderod10379 Member Posts: 2
    I know about this system. It's just that when there is nobody sitting in the passenger seat, I will be driving along and both lights turn on. The amber colored one turns off first, the red dashboard light stays lit a bit longer then turns off. It gets annoying because of the chime that aloso plays when the lights turn on. I think it may be a sensor. I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue and what it really took to remedy. Since I have a business, taking it to teh dealership in Tacoma is a little time consuming for me, but I have scheduled a check. Just wondering if someone has found a pattern of this on the new 2005 models of the JGC's.
  • realtorjeeprealtorjeep Member Posts: 1
    My '97 Jeep is giving me a "coolant sensor bad" message on that display unit. It is blinking a square under the hood. My temperature guage did not go up but maybe this is a warning? I have fluid. Is this about radiator or ac?
  • austinvaustinv Member Posts: 1
    I'm having an issue with my 95 jerking and screaming at me when I do a slow turn (in and out of parking stalls) I heard there might be a bad pressure release valve or something like that. Sound familiar to anyone? Any help would be great. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    If it's happening when you're driving, something is up. Hate to say it but the dealership is the only one who can diagnose it.
    If the red light in the instrument panel is coming on, there is some sort of a problem in the system.
  • jpmulinjpmulin Member Posts: 2
    I have this same problem on a 1998. Have you had any luck finding a solution?
  • yourabadjeepyourabadjeep Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone help me? I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the V8 it has 65000 miles. Last week I turned my key to start it and nothing happened. I tried again a few times and it started. I took it in and had the battery checked and it was fine. This morning I went to start my car no sound just dead silence. Then when I turned the key to the off posistion my gauges starting going crazy and the engine lightgs all came on there was a loud buzz coming from under the dash on the drivers side and the light under the dash by the steering wheel was flickering off and on. It was like the car was posessed. I turned the key to on and the gauges went back to normal. I turned the key off again and they did the same thing. I went in to get some tools to disconect the battery. I made a call and about ten minutes later I tried it again and it started but would not stay running unless I put my foot on the gas. Eventually after starting it several times it stayed running but there was a loud sound coming from the black thing in the center of my engine that sound like it was sucking air.
    I got in it this afternoon and drove it around and everything was normal. I've only had this car since Feb and I have never experienced anything like this before. Has anyone ever done the same? Your help is much appreciated.
  • jk56jk56 Member Posts: 2
    Not yet but we are in the process of finding out. I'll keep you updated.
  • supernova659supernova659 Member Posts: 2
    We have a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and had some of the same problems you mentioned. Stalled at intersections; drive it awhile, parking it, then wouldn't start again; etc. According to the dealership service department, the problem was a bad crank sensor. Had it replaced. Problem solved.
  • supernova659supernova659 Member Posts: 2
    Bought a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V6 new in 1994. Had air conditioner problems while under warrenty. Evaporator coil had to be replaced. Over the years, had it recharged, etc. Now it won't hold a charge at all, blows hot air. Have we missed a recall notice? (Didn't see any on the Web.) A friend of mine with a 2000 Laredo has the same problem along with other Jeep owners we've heard about. Any others with a/c problems? What was the fix? Any insight you could give would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • hansen4hansen4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Grand Cherokee, and the tailgate will not stay open. Is there any easy fix for this annoying problem?
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    I had a very similar problem with the same model - battery tested fine, but was advised to change out the battery anyway by the serviceman at the local Jeep dealership.

    Sure enough - all of these problems went away.

    According to the serviceman - even though the battery tested OK - the computer is VERY sensitive to the voltage and amperage - so when the battery -starts- to weaken, these symptoms are the result.

    I hope this helps...

    :) John
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    The pistons are worn out. You can get replacements from the dealership or most auto parts stores (I bought mine at NAPA at much less cost than the dealership).

    The job isn't hard to do - you just need the right sized Torx socket for the bolts.
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    I ran into a similar problem after having the differential fluids changed at the dealership I purchased my '99 from. When I took it back, I was told that the serviceman hadn't put in the (necessary) limited slip additive.

    They changed out the fluid again - refilling WITH the additive - and the problem went away.

    Of note is that I later had a leak in the front differential - and the place that I went for my oil changes was topping up the differential when they found the fluid was down. They used the right fluid, but no additive. The problem returned. I fixed the leak and changed out the fluids myself and again the problem went away.

    I hope this helps...

    :) John
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    I had the exact same problem with my '99 - and have read hundreds of posts on various forums regarding this problem with Jeep brakes for multiple model years.

    First, I arrived at your post after reading about another owner having a hard time getting the rotors to come off - so I'll address both problems in the reply...

    1. Getting the rotors off: I tried everything else and then ended up using a 6 pound sledge hammer and kept hitting the face of the rotor hub until it finally broke free. It was sinply rusted onto the axle hub. I was replacing the rotors anyway (due to the warping problem you mentioned) so I wasn't too worried about cracking or breaking them. (NOTE: I put the lug nuts back on loosely to protect the lug bolts while doing this.)

    When I put the new rotors on, I coated the surface of the axle hub (and the base of the lug bolts) with Permatex Anti-Sieze lubricant - and the next time I had to take the rotors off - they came off with a light tap of my hand. The lubricant did not leak out onto the rotors or affect braking in any way.

    2. Warping of rotors: Under warranty (36,000 miles) - I had my rotors replaced by the dealer 4 times - and they would warp again with less than 3000 miles on them - every time. Shook the car so badly that I almost lost control a few times when braking onto exit ramps offf the highway. To this day - I don't know why Jeep hasn't been forced to recall these parts.

    THE FIX: GET RID OF THE JEEP PARTS!!! If you look at the jeep rotor, you'll notice a groove cut around the rotor, right where the rotor meets the hub. The only reason I can think of is that Jeep was trying to get the last couple of ounces off the weight of the vehicle, and thought this was a reasonable place to remove some. Unfortunately, I found that every time OEM rotors were used, this groove allowed the rotors to warp nearly instantly after replacing them.

    I went to the local NAPA store and following their advice bought after market rotors - no groove where the rotor surface meets the hub - and haven't had a problem since. Have driven over 80,000 miles with them, replaced the pads and turned the after market rotors twice (required very little turning, about 8-10/1000 total only - but I turn them myself on a friends' lathe after the local service shop ruined several rotors on my previous vehicles), and still no warpage.

    I hope this helps...

    :) John
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    Go to the following link:

    Jeep brake problem

    :) John
  • jryderjryder Member Posts: 6
    Most probably is due to a plugged drain hose. I had the same problem in my '99. The hose was kinked and not draining the condensation from the air conditioner. Once I unkinked it and the condensation could drain, the odor went away (over 80,000 miles ago)
  • deepjeepdeepjeep Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 JGC Laredo 5.2L and the tranny is acting wacky, studders at max shift, no reverse but otherwise drive perfect. Could this be a solenoid someone told me about. Or am I looking at a tranny R&R
  • fungunsfunguns Member Posts: 3
    I just went thru the same problem. What it is, is the transfer case. It uses a viscous coupler. It's a fluid clutch which matches the front and rear wheels when turning. They need to turn at different speeds. When it goes the wheels want to stay locked up when turning, no slippage. Expensive part, but easy to replace. I bought a used ( 70,000 mile ) complete case and no problems since.
  • fungunsfunguns Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94 which I want to give to my daughter for her first car, she gets her license in a couple of weeks. It started doing the exact same thing. I replaced the filter, the pump, several sensors and still is doing it. Only when you want to drive the car. Let me know if you find a fix!
  • fungunsfunguns Member Posts: 3
    It's the viscous coupler in your transfer case. Needs to be replaced. Trust me, I tried to figure it for 6 months. I bought a used transfer case and voila! smooth steering again.
    Torrey
  • yourabadjeepyourabadjeep Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the advise. Today I cleaned the fittings on my battery and cables. I realized that the problem started after my last oil change. Sure enough they spilled oil all over my battery. I hope this cures the problem if not, I'm off to buy a new battery.
    Thanks again :)
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    Hey jryder, where was the kink in the hose located...For that matter, where was the hose located. I know for a fact that my drain hose is blocked cause i've got liquid draining into my rear passanger side floor board (from the floor vent in the back.) But I have no idea where this hose is at. Any info would be great. Thanks a lot.
  • mjs116mjs116 Member Posts: 1
    I have been reading the threads pertaining to a fix for condensation building up in the evaporator until it flows through the rear heat duct into the rear passenger floor board. However, it is not clear how to locate or unclog this hose. My Haynes manual attempts to illustrate the location but I have yet to find it. Any photos or step-by-step advice?
  • nick101nick101 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and I had the battery checked. The battery showed good and I replaced it anyway. No more problem. That was easy!
  • jrsuttlejrsuttle Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 JGC. I am considering replacing one of the tail light assembles to see if it resolves the problem. Please let me know if you have any luck with it. Thanks
  • jeffbsgtjeffbsgt Member Posts: 2
    I'm also having a problem with the A/C in my 02 JGCL. I have the dual climate control but the passenger side blows only hot air. So far no problem with the drivers side air. I also have the rubbing sound in my steering column which others on this site have mentioned. I'm starting to wonder whether or not it was good purchase.
  • scoppus5scoppus5 Member Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if you figured out your problem yet. I have a 95' JGC limited V8 5.2L and mine will stall at stop signs and lights and now just recently lost all acceleration power. AutoZone said O2 sensor and cam shaft pos. sensor then referred me to a mechanic. He told me crank shaft pos. sensor but wasn't able to fix it for whatever reason. I think he just wanted an easy 1/2 hour diagnostic fee. I now have an appt. at the local dealer to try and solve the problem which I know will be expensive but I need my vehicle but am getting sick of the problems. Any info. will be appreciated.
  • ldavis1ldavis1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact same problem with my 99 JGCL. I also have the dual climate control and the hot air blowing out on the 2 passengar side vents. I took it to a repair shop and they said a rodent was stuck in it...which doesn't make sense to me. I really don't think that is the issue.

    If you find out anything...PLEASE let me know what you hear.

    Thanks,
    Laura
  • davefromhomerdavefromhomer Member Posts: 2
    I am a Foreman at a Jeep Dealer In Alaska,
    The state with the Highest percapita brake complaints in the nation.
    I have a simple answer, www.frozenrotors.com
    buy the complete 4 wheel system about 500.00
    currently we have one set turning 40k with no problems at this time
    we have started putting the frozen rotors on and have had great sucess :)
  • tsheltontshelton Member Posts: 1
    Your problem (speaking from personal experience with my JGCL 02) is probably a broken "door" that is built into the A/C system which "opens" and "closes" to circulate the hot air from around the engine or to divert it away (for cold air), respectively. The usual fix requires pulling the dashboard to get to the needed spot. That's where the mechanic fee rises quickly. Good luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Funny that a guy from Alaska recommends frozen rotors. :-)

    Welcome to Edmunds!

    Steve, Host
  • nujgc57nujgc57 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I recently purchased a 2005 JGC, and have had to call Chrysler Roadside Assistance twice in the last 2 weeks for a jump start. In both cases, my keyless entry did not respond, nor did turning the key in the ignition. No response what-so-ever. Roadside Assistance was quick to assist, and get me back on the road, however, both employees tell me dead batteries within the Jeep Cherokee is not a new problem.....has anyone else heard this, or experienced a similar problem? My JGC was in the Service Department all day today, and multiple tests were ran, but no determiniation was made. Any feedback would be appreciated. THANKS! NUJGC57 :shades:
  • sunnydazesunnydaze Member Posts: 1
    Well, I guess my problems started a little later than others. I have a JGC 1999, V6 with 85000 miles and compared to my other Jeep that I loved, this is a piece of crap. Major problem is the differential problem that many of you speak to, I took it in for repair becuase of the same noise, rumbling from the rear which has now progressed to a wooshing sound with accleration. Yesterday I was told that the rear differential axles were shot so they were replaced for $790, but when I picked the Jeep up it was making the same sound as when I took it in, come to find out that I need a pinion seal and that the right front axle boot is torn, one of the techs assured me that the car was safe to drive from Florida back to Maryland, but the Jeep expert says I stand less than a 50percent chance of making it home all in all I 'm looking at another $1500.
    Since the differential and axle issues are so common has DC taken any responsiblity,
    I can't wait to get rid of this thing.
    sunnydaze
  • scoppus5scoppus5 Member Posts: 2
    This does not look good for me. My jeep is making the same wooshing sound with accleration. I take it to the dealer on Thursday for there great opinion and how much money they think they can take from me. I was hoping for something simple, but I am not going to hold my breath from what you have had done.
  • davefromhomerdavefromhomer Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like you have a SKIM Modual with a intermitant conection failure
  • fjs007fjs007 Member Posts: 2
    when i'm turning it sounds like somethings rubbing. like metal. but a high pitch sound. not so much a grinding sound. any idea what i could be?
  • chumpchump Member Posts: 6
    does anyone know anything aabout the idle air control, it's purpose, the symptoms of a bad one, and whats involved in changing one,
  • thomasjuthomasju Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem on my 1998 jeep 5.9L have you been able to figure it out. One guy told me I need a new tranny, I told him to go fly a transmission. I took it in again today and the guy adjusted the detent cable and let out some tranny fluid and replaced with atf3. this is driving me crazy. it revs high before kicking in to the next gear, but no slipping sometimes over 5k rpm. I know this is not normal but it feels like a sensor or something. did i mention the first guy put in dexron not atf3. please help. thanks.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    First off, I have had no experience with the IAC (Idle Air Control) on my Jeep. However I have had a problem with this on one of my previous vehicles but it was a smaller 4 cylnder car.

    Anyway, in my limited experience, basically the IAC is named for what it does. It controls air flow that effects the rpm's while the engine is at idle. It's important to know that it all depends on air flow, so if there is build up of any kind it may be blocking some of the air flow, or if there is a damaged gasket or O-ring it may be letting in too much air.

    Some symptoms that you may notice is an abnormally high or low idle, or a fluctuating idle. Again, in my experience (which was NOT on a Jeep) all that was needed was to clean the IAC and the throttle body with some carb cleaner. Other possibilities are replacing any gaskets or O-rings associated with the IAC if they are worn or visibly damaged. After you clean it out it may have a high idle for a little while until the computer can adjust for the new condition.

    I would suggest going to your local car parts store and picking up a Haynes Repair Manual for about $15. It has detailed instructions on how to check, and replace the IAC if needed. Hope this helps.
  • nujgc57nujgc57 Member Posts: 2
    I am not really sure what that means exactly. Could you be more specific? My apologies for not being on the up and up about car lingo.....I try to leave that to the experts. :blush:
  • thomasjuthomasju Member Posts: 2
    UPDATE:

    I got my jeep zj 5.9L back from the second opinion shop. they told me that the first guy put in the wrong fluid. the new mechanic replaced the tranny fluid with ATF and tightened the "detent" cable for a grand total of 63$. The jeep feels like a new jeep now. just turned 100K. he told me the tranny probably had a sticky valve but he expected it to recuperate fine after the fluid change. I will follow up. FYI, Always get a second opinion. I might bring this guys shop pizzas for lunch on friday, he saved me 2000$.
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